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Bouldering at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Bouldering
at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Jernej Kruder, SLO winner of the world cup season
Location Meiringen, Switzerland

Moscow, Russia
Chongqing, China
Tai'an, China
Hachiōji, Japan
Vail, United States

Munich, Germany
Dates13 April – 18 August 2018
Champions
MenSlovenia Jernej Kruder
WomenJapan Miho Nonaka

The 2018 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 20th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 13 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 18 August with the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds are conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Jernej Kruder won the seasonal title in the men's competition and Miho Nonaka won the women's. Japan won the national team competition.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones.[1]

Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.

Overall ranking

Winners 2018 Men: 1st place: Jernej Kruder, 2nd place: Tomoa Narasaki, 3rd place: Rei Sugimoto
Winners 2018 Women: 1st place: Miho Nonaka, 2nd place: Akiyo Noguchi, 3rd place: Fanny Gibert

The overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) were not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[2]

Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 442.00 2. 80.00 4. 55.00 8. (38.00) 2. 80.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 400.00 9. 35.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 8. 40.00 11. (31.00) 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
3 Japan Rei Sugimoto 334.00 8. 40.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 12. (28.00) 10. 34.00 8. 40.00
4 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 296.00 14. (23.00) 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 12. 27.00 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 3. 65.00
5 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 280.00 1. 100.00 14. 24.00 3. 65.00 13. 26.00 3. 65.00
6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 260.00 7. 43.00 18. (16.00) 16. 20.00 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 17. 18.00 12. 28.00
7 South Korea Jongwon Chon 247.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00
8 Japan Tomoaki Takata 218.00 17. 18.00 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 10. 34.00 25. (5.00) 9. 37.00 5. 51.00
9 Japan Yuji Fujiwaki 207.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 13. 26.00 11. 31.00 15. 22.00 28. (3.00) 9. 37.00
9 Austria Jakob Schubert 207.00 3. 65.00 12. 27.00 4. 55.00 25. 5.00 4. 55.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[3]

Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Japan Miho Nonaka 500.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. (80.00) 1. 100.00
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 495.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 3. (65.00)
3 France Fanny Gibert 320.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 3. 65.00 8. (40.00) 5. 51.00 5. 51.00
4 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 280.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
5 Slovenia Katja Kadic 246.00 5. 51.00 23. (7.00) 11. 31.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00 8. 40.00
6 Serbia Stasa Gejo 222.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 3. 65.00 15. 22.00 13. 25.00
7 Russia Ekaterina Kipriianova 210.00 6. 47.00 3. 65.00 10. 34.00 4. 55.00 21. 9.00
8 Japan Futaba Ito 179.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 13. 26.00 16. 20.00 8. 40.00 27. 3.00
9 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 174.00 7. 43.00 9. 37.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00
10 Germany Alma Bestvater 168.00 12. 28.00 6. 47.00 5. 51.00 23. 7.00 12. 28.00 23. 7.00

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[4]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Japan Japan 2269 (337) 387 419 363 371 362 367
2 Slovenia Slovenia 1344 345 (108) 109 208 139 310 233
3 France France 823 163 (91) 102 111 197 93 157
4 Austria Austria 735 173 61 (22) 110 154 64 173
5 Russia Russian Federation 591 85 (37) 144 101 121 72 68
6 Germany Germany 534 103 143 69 58 112 49 (27)
7 United States United States of America 503 15 284 86 57 9 (3) 52
8 South Korea Republic of Korea 418 0 81 75 89 98 75
9 United Kingdom Great Britain 366 21 74 101 30 (19) 47 93
10 Italy Italy 269 22 (1) 139 24 7 48 29

Meiringen, Switzerland (13–14 April)

Women

99 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Miho Nonaka (4T4z 5 5) won the competition in front of Janja Garnbret (4T4z 7 5).[5]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Miho Nonaka 4T4z 5 5
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 5
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 9 9
4 Austria Sandra Lettner 3T4z 5 5
5 France Fanny Gibert 3T3z 4 3
6 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 2T4z 5 11

Men

109 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Jernej Kruder (3T4z 7 8) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2T4z 3 7).[5]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 3T4z 7 8
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 2T4z 3 7
3 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 2T4z 5 13
4 Austria Jakob Schubert 2T3z 7 8
5 Japan Tamoaki Takata 1T3z 3 5
6 South Korea Jongwon Chon 1T2z 1 2
7 France Manuel Cornu 0T3z 0 9

Moscow, Russia (21–22 April)

Women

100 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 7 5) won the competition in front of Miho Nonaka (4T4z 7 5),[6] thereby reversing their finish order from Meiringen. As Garnbret and Nonoka achieved identical scores in the final their semi-final scores were used to determine final standings. Akiyo Noguchi, Fanny Gibert, and Shauna Coxsey came in 3rd, 5th, and 6th respectively, thus repeating their exact results from Meiringen. Petra Klingler completed the final in 4th place.

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 5
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 4T4z 7 5
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 3T4z 8 9
4 Switzerland Petra Klingler 3T4z 9 10
5 France Fanny Gibert 2T3z 2 3
6 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 1T3z 4 6

Men

109 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Tomoa Narasaki (4T4z 12 12) won the competition in front of Jernej Kruder (3T4z 5 6).[6] Thus –as in the women's competition– the winner and runner-up from Meiringen switched places. Jongwon Chon and Alexey Rubtsov also managed back to back final appearances.

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4T4z 12 12
2 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 3T4z 5 6
3 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 3T4z 6 9
4 South Korea Jongwon Chon 3T4z 9 18
5 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 2T4z 4 27
6 Italy Gabriele Moroni 2T3z 7 14

Chongqing, China (5–6 May)

The Chongqing World Cup was held outdoors and is affected by humidity to a greater extent than the European hosted World Cups. A lightning storm before the semi-finals made conditions difficult for climbers. The routesetting used a large number of volumes which exhausted Gecko King's inventory.[7]

Women

47 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 5 5) won the competition in front of Miho Nonaka (3T3z 7 7). They led from the start as the only two competitors to top the first problem, a burly overhang with a feet first start.[7] Janja Garnbret and Shauna Coxsey, who had made the finals of both previous World Cups did not attend Chongqing.[8]

Notably Gejo finished in front of Kipriianova for the bronze medal, a result that would have been reversed under the old scoring rules. This was the first time that results under the new system, which weights zones (bonuses) above attempts, differed from that of the old system.[9]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 5 5
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 3T3z 7 7
3 Serbia Stasa Gejo 1T3z 2 7
4 Russia Ekaterina Kipriianova 1T1z 1 1
5 Austria Jessica Pilz 1T1z 2 1
6 Slovenia Katja Kadic 1T1z 4 4

Men

83 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Of the four final problem the first one was flashed by all competitors, and the fourth yielded no points for anyone, thus the final standings were effectively decided by the second and fourth boulder only. Kokoro Fujii (3T3z 9 8) won the competition in front of Sean McColl (2T3z 2 4). Jernej Kruder and Alexey Rubtsov had their third straight finals appearances this season.[8] Jongwon Chon was not competing because of a scheduling clash with the South Korean Asian Games qualifications.[7]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Kokoro Fujii 3T3z 9 8
2 Canada Sean McColl 2T3z 2 4
3 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 2T3z 5 7
4 Austria Jakob Schubert 2T2z 2 2
5 Germany Jan Hojer 1T3z 1 3
6 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 1T2z 1 3

Tai'an, China (12–13 May)

Women

47 athletes attended the World Cup in Tai'an. Just as in Chongqing Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 5 5) and Miho Nonaka (4T4z 10 7) dominated the women's final, each finishing two tops ahead of the competition. Noguchi claimed her second straight win while Nonaka continued her streak of finishing at least second in each bouldering competition this season.

Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret and Petra Klingler were not competing.[10]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 5 5
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 4T4z 10 7
3 France Fanny Gibert 2T3z 6 7
4 Serbia Stasa Gejo 1T3z 3 7
5 Austria Johanna Färber 1T3z 4 10
6 United States Kyra Condie 0T3z 0 5

Men

93 athletes attended the World Cup in Tai'an. The final was decided on the final problem after all climbers achieved scores on the first three problems. Alex Khazanov (3T4z 7 9) was the only athlete to top the last boulder, and thus won the World Cup in front of Jernej Kruder (2T4z 2 5), the only climber to reach all finals of the season.

Rank Name Score
1 Israel Alex Khazanov 3T4z 7 9
2 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 2T4z 2 5
3 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 2T4z 4 10
4 Japan Rei Sugimoto 2T4z 4 10
5 Japan Kokoro Fujii 2T4z 7 5
6 South Korea Jongwon Chon 2T3z 6 6

Hachioji, Japan (2–3 June)

Women

68 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. As in the two preceding World Cups Akiyo Noguchi (3T3z 5 5) won in front of Miho Nonaka (3T3z 6 6). After the World Cup Noguchi and Nonaka thus led the competition for the seasonal title by a sufficient margin to leave only them in contention for first and second place.[11]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 3T3z 5 5
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 3T3z 6 6
3 Russia Ekaterina Kipriianova 2T2z 6 5
4 Serbia Stasa Gejo 0T2z 0 5
5 Germany Alma Bestvater 0T2z 0 6
6 Japan Futaba Ito 0T1z 0 9

Men

91 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Gabriele Moroni (2T4z 3 6) won his first World Cup in his career of more than ten years. Tomoa Narasaki (1T3z 1 6) came in second. Jernej Kruder missed the finals for the first time in the season.

Rank Name Score
1 Italy Gabriele Moroni 2T4z 3 6
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 1 6
3 Japan Rei Sugimoto 1T3z 4 8
4 South Korea Jongwon Chon 1T2z 2 6
5 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 0T2z 0 4
6 Japan Kai Harada 0T1z 0 8

Vail, United States (8–9 June)

Women

58 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Alex Puccio (3T3z 6 4) won, attending her first World Cup of the 2018 season. The second place went to Miho Nonaka (2T3z 3 4), who continued her streak of finishing at least second in all World Cups of the season. The winner of the three previous World Cups, Akiyo Noguchi (1T3z 2 6), came in third, winning her tenth consecutive medal at Bouldering World Cups.

Rank Name Score
1 United States Alex Puccio 3T3z 6 4
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T3z 3 4
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 1T3z 2 6
4 France Fanny Gibert 1T1z 5 2
5 United States Kyra Condie 0T2z 0 4
6 Germany Alma Bestvater 0T1z 0 8

Men

91 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Rei Sugimoto (3T4z 4 5) won in front of Sean Bailey (2T4z 2 6).

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Rei Sugimoto 3T4z 4 5
2 United States Sean Bailey 2T4z 2 6
3 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 2T4z 3 5
4 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 0T4z 0 7
5 Japan Ryuichi Murai 0T4z 0 8
6 Japan Tomoaki Takata 0T3z 0 15

Munich, Germany (17–18 August)

Women

102 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 4 4) won, solving each problem in her first attempt. The second place went to Miho Nonaka (4T4z 5 5), who thus claimed the overall Bouldering World Cup title. The third place in Munich and the second place overall went to Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 7 6).[12]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 4T4z 5 5
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 7 6
4 France Fanny Gibert 1T4z 1 8
5 Slovenia Katja Kadic 1T2z 1 5
6 Russia Ekaterina Kipriianova 0T3z 0 5

Men

128 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. The seasonal overall Bouldering title was decided after the semi-finals when Tomoa Narasaki failed to advance to the finals. Jernej Kruder thus secured the overall title regardless of his eventual finish in the Munich men's final. Gregor Vezonik (2T4z 2 13) won the competition with Kruder (2T3z 9 7) coming second and Jakob Schubert (2T3z 9 11) finishing in third place.[12]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 2T4z 2 13
2 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 2T3z 9 7
3 Austria Jakob Schubert 2T3z 9 11
4 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T3z 11 13
5 Japan Yuji Fujiwaki 2T2z 5 5
6 France Mickael Mawem 1T2z 1 3


References

  1. ^ "Starting now: the 2018 IFSC World Cup Season". BMC. 12 April 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
  2. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  3. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  4. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking".
  5. ^ a b "Meiringen 2018: Nonaka and Kruder take the gold in a great final". OnBouldering.com. 14 April 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
  6. ^ a b "Narasaki and Garnbret claim the gold in Moscow". OnBouldering.com. 22 April 2018. Retrieved 23 April 2018.
  7. ^ a b c John Burgman (8 May 2018). "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chongqing World Cup 2018—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing.com. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
  8. ^ a b "Double gold for Japan, Noguchi and Fujii win in Chongqing". OnBouldering.com. 6 May 2018. Retrieved 6 May 2018.
  9. ^ IFSC. "IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing 2018 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women". Youtube. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
  10. ^ John Burgman. "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Tai'an World Cup 2018—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. Retrieved 16 May 2018.
  11. ^ "No rest allowed, time for Vail 2018". OnBouldering.com. 7 June 2018. Retrieved 8 June 2018.
  12. ^ a b "Double gold for Slovenia. Nonaka and Kruder, overall champions". OnBouldering.com. 18 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.