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Ramón Julián

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Ramón Julián Puigblanque
Puigblanque competing at Imst, 2010
Personal information
NationalitySpanish
Born (1981-11-09) November 9, 1981 (age 43)
Vic (Barcelona, Spain)
Height159 cm (5 ft 3 in)
Weight48 kg (106 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forWinning 2 World Championships and 21 World Cup stages
Medal record
World Cup
Winner 2010 Lead
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2007 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2011 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2014 Lead
European Championships
Bronze medal – third place 2002 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2004 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2010 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2013 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2015 Lead
World Games
Gold medal – first place 2013 Lead
Updated on November 13, 2017

Ramón Julián Puigblanque (also known as Ramonet, which means little Ramon in Catalan language; born November 9, 1981 in Vic) is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, in 2007[2] and 2011,[3] three European Championships, in 2004[4] 2010[5] and 2015,[6] and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010.[7] From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages.[8] He has also climbed many routes of 9a (5.14d) and harder.

Biography

He started climbing when he was a child with his parents[9] and competed in senior categories from 2001. On November 17, 2002, he took his first victory and first podium in the Lead World Cup, in Kranj, last stage of the 2002 season.[10]

On March 8, 2003, he hit the headlines with the first free ascent of La Rambla extension, Siurana, one of the first 9a+ (5.15a) in history and the highest grade at that time.[11] In the same year he ended the Lead World Cup in second place with three wins, two seconds and two podiums finishes. The Cup was won by Alexandre Chabot, with five wins and two seconds.[12]

In 2004 he won the gold medal at the European Championships in Lecco, Italy.[4]

On May 29, 2006, he succeeded to onsight the 8c (5.14b) route Suma O in Cuenca, Spain. Puigblanque became the fourth person ever to have onsighted 8c after Yuji Hirayama, Tomáš Mrázek and Patxi Usobiaga.[13][14]

In 2007 he took his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain,[2] and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[15]

In 2010 he won his first Lead World Cup title, with three wins and a second place[7] and took his second gold medal at the European Championships in Imst, Austria.[5]

In 2011 he won his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy[3] and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[16]

On October 11, 2011, he became the third person ever to have onsighted 8c+ (5.14c) after Patxi Usobiaga and Adam Ondra, with the onsight of The Crew in Rifle, Colorado, realized a few days after competing in the Boulder stage of the World Cup.[17][18]

Rankings

See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup[8]

Discipline 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Lead 8 10 2 10 4 5 2 3 5 1 2 2 3 6 6 16 30
Puigblanque competing at 2007 Rock Master

Climbing World Championships[19]

Youth[19]

Discipline 2000
Juniors
Lead 13

Adult[19]

Discipline 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016
Lead 6 7 10 1 16 1 4 2 9

Climbing European Championships[19]

Discipline 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 3 1 30 5 1 2 1 55

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[19]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2002 1 1
2003 3 2 2 7
2004 0
2005 2 1 1 4
2006 2 1 3
2007 1 3 4
2008 1 1 2
2009 1 1
2010 3 1 4
2011 2 3 2 7
2012 3 1 4
2013 2 1 3
2014 1 1
2015 1 1 2
Total 21 14 8 43

Notable ascents

The table below shows the impressively large number of routes graded 8a (5.13b) or more ascended by Puigblanque in about 16 years, from August 10, 2001 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to November 27, 2017. The total number is 1123, of which 13 were at 9a+ (5.15a) and 345 were onsights, including 1 onsight at 8c+ (5.14c).[20][21]

Number of ascended routes
Grade Redpoint Flash On-sight Total
9a+ (5.15a) 13 13
9a (5.14d) 36 36
8c+ (5.14c) 85 1 86
8c/8c+  4 4
8c (5.14b) 134 2 6 142
8b+ (5.14a) 152 2 22 176
8b (5.13d) 134 2 55 191
8a+ (5.13c) 100 2 92 194
8a (5.13b) 105 7 169 281
Total 763 15 345 1123

Redpointed routes

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • San Ku Kaï - Entraygues (FRA) - August 4, 2011[28]
  • Le Cadre Nouvelle Version - Céüse (FRA) - August 3, 2011
  • Duele la realidad - Oliana (ESP) - November 1, 2010 - First ascent[29]
  • Samfaina - Margalef (ESP) - July 4, 2010 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[30]
  • Era Vella - Margalef (ESP) - June 5, 2010 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)
  • Supernowa - Vadiello (ESP) - September 12, 2009
  • El Gran Bellanco - Montanejos (ESP) - May 1, 2009 - First ascent by Pedro Pons, 2003
  • La Novena enmienda - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 9, 2008
  • Fabelita r2 - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 9, 2008
  • Fuck The system - Santa Linya (ESP) - November 29, 2008[31]
  • Victimas Perez - Margalef (ESP) - October 26, 2008 - First ascent
  • Gancho perfecto - Margalef (ESP) - July 5, 2008 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[32]
  • El templo del cafe - Alquezar (ESP) - March 24, 2008
  • M. ALBA - Savassona (ESP) - December 2, 2007
  • Definicion de resistencia democrata - Terradets (ESP) - November 20, 2007[33]
  • Esclatamasters - Perles [ca] (ESP) - April 17, 2006 - First ascent
  • Estado critico - Siurana (ESP) - March 15, 2004 - First ascent[34]
  • KinematiX - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 13, 2002

Onsighted routes

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

  • Amistad - Rodellar (ESP) - September 11, 2009[36]
  • Malsoñando - Gandía (ESP) - November 23, 2006
  • iron man r2 - Rodellar (ESP) - September 10, 2006
  • Suma O - Cuenca (ESP) - May 29, 2006[37]

References

  1. ^ "Ramon Julian Sends Three New 5.14's in Spain". rockandice.com. 4 April 2013. Retrieved 11 May 2013.
  2. ^ a b "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  3. ^ a b Vinicio Stefanello. "Final Lead Men report". arco2011.it. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  4. ^ a b "UIAA European Championship - Lecco (ITA) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. 27 June 2004. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  5. ^ a b Vinicio Stefanello (21 September 2010). "European Championship 2010, the results". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  6. ^ "European Championship - Chamonix (FRA) 2015". ifsc-climbing.org. 12 July 2015. Retrieved 26 July 2017.
  7. ^ a b "Ramón Julián, campeón de la Copa del Mundo" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 15 November 2010. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  8. ^ a b IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  9. ^ Xavier Maduell (December 2010). "Entrevista a Ramon Julián" (in Spanish). feec.cat. Archived from the original on 14 April 2013. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  10. ^ "UIAA Worldcup - Kranj (SLO) 2002 - Result: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 17 November 2002. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  11. ^ "Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 17 March 2003. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  12. ^ "UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2003: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 31 December 2003. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  13. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Ramonet Onsights 5.14b". climbing.com. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  14. ^ "Ramonet, 8c a vista" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 31 May 2006. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  15. ^ "World Cup Lead 2007 won by Usobiaga and Vidmar". planetmountain.com. 20 November 2007. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  16. ^ "Puigblanque reigns in Spain, along with Eiter, Kim and Markovic". planetmountain.com. 29 November 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  17. ^ "Ramon Julien Puigblanque 8c+ on-sight". planetmountain.com. 13 October 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  18. ^ "Ramon Julián escala 8c+ a vista con 'The crew', en Rifle (EE.UU)" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 13 October 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  19. ^ a b c d e IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Puigblanque's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  20. ^ Puigblanque, Ramon Julian. "List of climbed routes". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  21. ^ Puigblanque, Ramon Julian. "List of climbed boulder problems". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  22. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (July 2, 2012). "9a+ e 9a+/b per Ramonet". Archived from the original on March 5, 2016. Retrieved July 6, 2012.
  23. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (June 27, 2012). "Ramonet, 9a+ a Santa Linya". Archived from the original on March 5, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2012.
  24. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (October 13, 2010). "Ramonet: 2^ ripetizione di Demencia Senil 9a+". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  25. ^ Björn Pohl. ukclimbing.com (ed.). "3rd ascent of Papichulo by Ramonet". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  26. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (December 10, 2008). "Santa Linya e Ramon Julian Puigblanque". Retrieved August 30, 2012.
  27. ^ desnivel.com, ed. (March 17, 2003). "Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  28. ^ desnivel.com, ed. (August 8, 2011). "Otro noveno de Ramonet con 'Sankukai' en Entraygues". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  29. ^ Björn Pohl. ukclimbing.com (ed.). "9a FA by Ramonet". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  30. ^ Björn Pohl. ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Ramonet makes 2nd ascent of Samfaina, 9a". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  31. ^ (in Spanish) desnivel.com, ed. (December 1, 2008). "Ramón Julián repite Fuck the system (9a)". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  32. ^ desnivel.com, ed. (July 7, 2008). "Ramón Julián repite Gancho perfecto (9a)". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  33. ^ desnivel.com, ed. (November 22, 2007). "Ramonet repite Definición de resistencia demócrata (9a+)". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  34. ^ desnivel.com, ed. (March 17, 2004). "Ramón Julián en Estado crítico". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  35. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (October 13, 2011). "Ramon Julian 8c+ a vista". Archived from the original on October 16, 2011. Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  36. ^ Björn Pohl. ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Ramonet on form". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  37. ^ ukclimbing.com (ed.). "8c onsight by Ramonet". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
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