Yuji Hirayama

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Yuji Hirayama
Yuji Hirayama - TEDxTokyo 2009.jpg
Yuji Hirayama at TEDxTokyo 2009
Personal information
Born (1969-02-23) February 23, 1969 (age 49)
Height173 centm (5 ft 8 in)
Weight65 kg (143 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known for
  • First man to onsight 8c (5.14b)
Updated on 13 May 2013.

Yuji Hirayama (平山ユージ), born on February 23, 1969 is a Japanese rock climber, specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cup, in 1998 (first Asian climber to win the title),[1] and 2000.[2] He is also famous for various speed records on El Capitan.


In 2001, Hirayama made a climbing tour in the U.S. with the French climber François Legrand.[3]

On September 29, 2002 Hirayama and Hans Florine climbed The Nose in 2:48:55, setting a new speed record.[4]

In 2003 he made the first ascent of a proposed 9a+ (5.15a) called Flat Mountain.[5]

In 2004 he hit the headlines when he onsighted the 8c (5.14b) White Zombie. This ascent represented the first 8c onsight in history.[6] On 2005 Aug 10, Tomas Mrazek had the 2nd 8c onsight, Pata Negra at Rodellar in eastern Spain.[7]

In 2007 his Nose record was broken by the German "Huberbuam", Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber. The two brothers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2 hours, 45 minutes and 45 seconds.[8] On July 2, 2008, Hirayama and Florine retook the record in a time of 2:43:33.[9] Then on October 12, 2008, they lowered the record to 2:37:05.[10]

In 2008 he has put up and repeated hard boulder problems, such as the third ascent of Uma V14 at Shiobara, and the first ascent of Ginga V14 at Kanoto.[11]

In 2010 Hirayama opened "Climb Park Base Camp", a climbing gym in Saitama prefecture, Japan.[12]

In 2012, he freed a multi-pitch route called Pogulian Do Koduduo in the Mount Kinabalu National Park in Borneo with one pitch in 9a.[13]


  1. ^ "Rankings - UIAA Climbing Worldcup 1998 - MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  2. ^ "Rankings - UIAA Climbing Worldcup 2000 - MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  3. ^ "Sansoz, Legrand and Hirayama in America". planetmountain.com. 14 April 2001. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  4. ^ "Hirayama and Florine set new Nose record". planetmountain.com. 2 October 2002. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  5. ^ Jeff Achey. "Flat Mountain". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  6. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Yuji Onsights 5.14b". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.[permanent dead link]
  7. ^ "Mrazek onsights Pata negra 8c!". planetmountain.com. 13 September 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  8. ^ Luke Bauer (9 October 2007). "Huber brothers break speed record on the Nose, twice". alpinist.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  9. ^ Eric Perlman. "The Nose goes quicker". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  10. ^ "Yuji and Hans Speed Up The Nose – An El Capitan Dispatch from Yosemite, CA". climbing.com. Larry Arthur. Retrieved 23 May 2013. Check date values in: |date= (help)
  11. ^ "Yuji Hirayama Still Has the Power". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  12. ^ http://www.b-camp.jp/
  13. ^ http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39707

External links[edit]