Yuji Hirayama

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to navigation Jump to search
Yuji Hirayama
Yuji Hirayama - TEDxTokyo 2009.jpg
Yuji Hirayama at TEDxTokyo 2009
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1969-02-23) February 23, 1969 (age 50)
Tokyo
Height173 cm (5 ft 8 in)
Weight65 kg (143 lb)
Websiteameblo.jp/stonerider/
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forFirst man to onsight 8c (5.14b)
Sport
Retired2007
Updated on 13 May 2013.

Yuji Hirayama (平山ユージ; born February 23, 1969) is a Japanese rock climber, specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cup, in 1998 (first Asian climber to win the title),[1] and 2000.[2] He is also famous for being the first climber in history to onsight an 8c (5.14b) route, and for various speed records on El Capitan.

Biography[edit]

On November 25, 1999, Hirayama onsighted Mortal Kombat (Castillon, FRA). This achievement gained some historical relevance because it was initially announced as the world's first 8c (5.14b) onsight, although a few days later, Hirayama himself downgraded the route to 8b+.[3] In the following years, consensus has been reached about Hirayama's rating.[4]

On September 29, 2002 Hirayama and Hans Florine climbed The Nose in 2:48:55, setting a new speed record.[5]

In 2003 he made the first ascent of a proposed 9a+ (5.15a) called Flat Mountain.[6]

On October 6, 2004 he hit the headlines again by onsighting the 8c (5.14b) White Zombie (Baltzola Cave, ESP). This ascent represented the first 8c onsight in history.[4][7]). On 2005 Aug 10, Tomas Mrazek had the 2nd 8c onsight, Pata Negra at Rodellar in eastern Spain.[8]

In 2007 his Nose record was broken by the German "Huberbuam", Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber. The two brothers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2 hours, 45 minutes and 45 seconds.[9] On July 2, 2008, Hirayama and Florine retook the record in a time of 2:43:33.[10] Then on October 12, 2008, they lowered the record to 2:37:05.[11]

In 2008 he has put up and repeated hard boulder problems, such as the third ascent of Uma V14 at Shiobara, and the first ascent of Ginga V14 at Kanoto.[12]

In 2010 Hirayama opened "Climb Park Base Camp", a climbing gym in Saitama prefecture, Japan.[13]

In 2012, he freed a multi-pitch route called Pogulian Do Koduduo in the Mount Kinabalu National Park in Borneo with one pitch in 9a.[14]

See also[edit]

Notable first ascents

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Rankings - UIAA Climbing Worldcup 1998 - MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  2. ^ "Rankings - UIAA Climbing Worldcup 2000 - MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  3. ^ "Yuji Hirayama first to onsight 8c!". planetmountain.com. Note: The title of this artilcle is misleading, as the article contains an interview in which Hirayama downgraded the route to 8b+
  4. ^ a b "Yuji Hirayama world's first 8c on-sight!". planetmountain.com.
  5. ^ "Hirayama and Florine set new Nose record". planetmountain.com. 2 October 2002. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  6. ^ Jeff Achey. "Flat Mountain". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  7. ^ "Yuji Hirayama White Zombie Onsight". Youtube.
  8. ^ "Mrazek onsights Pata negra 8c!". planetmountain.com. 13 September 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  9. ^ Luke Bauer (9 October 2007). "Huber brothers break speed record on the Nose, twice". alpinist.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  10. ^ Eric Perlman. "The Nose goes quicker". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  11. ^ Larry Arthur. "Yuji and Hans Speed Up The Nose – An El Capitan Dispatch from Yosemite, CA". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  12. ^ "Yuji Hirayama Still Has the Power". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  13. ^ http://www.b-camp.jp/
  14. ^ http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39707

External links[edit]