Yuji Hirayama at TEDxTokyo 2009
|Born||February 23, 1969|
|Height||173 cm (5 ft 8 in)|
|Weight||65 kg (143 lb)|
|Type of climber||Sport climbing|
|Known for||First man to onsight 8c (5.14b)|
|Updated on 13 May 2013.|
Yuji Hirayama (平山ユージ; born February 23, 1969) is a Japanese rock climber, specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cup, in 1998 (first Asian climber to win the title), and 2000. He is also famous for being the first climber in history to onsight an 8c (5.14b) route, and for various speed records on El Capitan.
On November 25, 1999, Hirayama onsighted Mortal Kombat (Castillon, FRA). This achievement gained some historical relevance because it was initially announced as the world's first 8c (5.14b) onsight, although a few days later, Hirayama himself downgraded the route to 8b+. In the following years, consensus has been reached about Hirayama's rating.
On October 6, 2004 he hit the headlines again by onsighting the 8c (5.14b) White Zombie (Baltzola Cave, ESP). This ascent represented the first 8c onsight in history.). On 2005 Aug 10, Tomas Mrazek had the 2nd 8c onsight, Pata Negra at Rodellar in eastern Spain.
In 2007 his Nose record was broken by the German "Huberbuam", Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber. The two brothers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2 hours, 45 minutes and 45 seconds. On July 2, 2008, Hirayama and Florine retook the record in a time of 2:43:33. Then on October 12, 2008, they lowered the record to 2:37:05.
In 2008 he has put up and repeated hard boulder problems, such as the third ascent of Uma V14 at Shiobara, and the first ascent of Ginga V14 at Kanoto.
- "Rankings - UIAA Climbing Worldcup 1998 - MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- "Rankings - UIAA Climbing Worldcup 2000 - MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- "Yuji Hirayama first to onsight 8c!". planetmountain.com. Note: The title of this artilcle is misleading, as the article contains an interview in which Hirayama downgraded the route to 8b+
- "Yuji Hirayama world's first 8c on-sight!". planetmountain.com.
- "Hirayama and Florine set new Nose record". planetmountain.com. 2 October 2002. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- Jeff Achey. "Flat Mountain". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- "Yuji Hirayama White Zombie Onsight". Youtube.
- "Mrazek onsights Pata negra 8c!". planetmountain.com. 13 September 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- Luke Bauer (9 October 2007). "Huber brothers break speed record on the Nose, twice". alpinist.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- Eric Perlman. "The Nose goes quicker". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- Larry Arthur. "Yuji and Hans Speed Up The Nose – An El Capitan Dispatch from Yosemite, CA". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- "Yuji Hirayama Still Has the Power". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- IFSC Profile
- video of onsight of White Zombie
- http://vimeo.com/16279796, Road to Slovenia, Yuji Hirayama video portrait
- http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/japan235/,[permanent dead link] Way of Weekend Warrior article
- http://www.b-camp.jp/,[permanent dead link] Base Camp climbing gym produced by Yuji Hirayama