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Celine (brand)

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This article is about the clothing brand. For other uses, see Celine (disambiguation).
Celine
Company typeSubsidiary of public company
IndustryFashion
Founded1945; 79 years ago (1945)
FounderCéline Vipiana
Headquarters16 rue Vivienne, 75002, Paris,
Paris
,
France
Key people
Hedi Slimane
(Artistic Creative and Image Director)
OwnerLVMH
Websitewww.celine.com

CELINE (formerly spelled CÉLINE) is a French ready-to-wear and leather luxury goods brand that has been owned by LVMH group since 1996. It was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana. Since November 2015, the headquarters are located at 16 rue Vivienne in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris at the Hôtel Colbert de Torcy, which has French Historic Monument classification.[1] Séverine Merle is the Chief Executive Officer since April 2017.[2]

On January 21, 2018, LVMH announced that Hedi Slimane will take over at Celine as its artistic, creative and image director.[3]

Creation of the brand

In 1945, Céline Vipiana (1915–1997)[4] and her husband, Richard, created one of the first luxury brands in the industry, Céline, a made-to-measure children's shoe business,[5] and opened a first boutique at 52 rue Malte in Paris.[6] The brand was recognised by its logo, the red elephant created by Raymont Peynet.[7]

A new positioning

Former logo of Celine.

In 1960, the brand decided to change its positioning by focusing its business on a ready-to-wear fashion brand for women with a sportswear approach.[8] Henceforth, the brand offered a range of leather goods such as bags, loafers, gloves and clothes.[9] Céline Vipiana remained the designer from 1945-1997.[10]

In 1964, the launch of the new fragrance "Vent fou"[11] and the new ‘American Sulky’ collection of accessories gained success. The trench became the chief product of the house.[12] Prompted by the popularity of leather, Céline opened a leather goods factory in Florence.[13]

In 1973, Céline redesigned its logo with the intertwined "C" Sulky canvas, linked to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which appeared as a symbol for Parisians.[14] At that time, Céline began its expansion in the world with the opening of various boutiques in Monte Carlo, Geneva, Hong Kong, Lausanne, Toronto and Beverly Hills.[15]

The brand’s founders wished to be part of a charitable association, so Richard Vipiana established the Céline-Pasteur Prize, a sponsor for the American Hospital of Paris in 1973.[16]

Acquisition by LVMH

In 1987, Bernard Arnault decided to buy into Céline’s capital.[17] However, it was only in 1996 that the brand was integrated into the LVMH group for 2.7 billion French francs ($540 million).[18] LVMH propelled the brand to fame with the opening of a boutique at 36 avenue Montaigne in Paris.[19]

Céline’s designers

After Céline Vipiana, Peggy Huynh Kinh, appointed by Bernard Arnault, took over the house’s artistic direction in 1988.[20] She modernised the brand and initiated seasonal collections for accessories. American fashion designer Michael Kors was named women's ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Céline in 1997.[21] During his tenure at Céline, Kors brought modern femininity with a luxurious spirit.[22] In 2004, he left the fashion luxury house to focus his career on his own brand.

In 2005, Italian designer Roberto Menichetti was named creative director.

A year later, Croatian designer Ivana Omazic directed the design studio. Omazic was a former consultant for the brand and previously worked with Romeo Gigli, Prada, Jil Sander and Miu Miu. Omazic designed for Céline until 2008, after further disappointments for the brand.[23]

Phoebe Philo: a Decade as Creative Director

On September 4, 2008, the fashion portal Women's Wear Daily announced that Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, had appointed Phoebe Philo as the new creative director of Céline.[24] Philo's tenure at Céline began in October 2008, and she presented her first ready-to-wear collection for Spring/Summer 2010 at Paris Fashion Week.[25] Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH’s fashion division, said that recruiting Philo was giving her the opportunity to express her vision.[26] In 2009, Vogue Magazine defined her style as the “cool minimal trend”.[27]

Philo studied at Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London.[28] Prior to Céline, Philo held the position of Design Director at Chloé.

In 2010, Philo received the Designer of the Year award from British Fashion Council. In 2011, she was awarded International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America.[29] Both prizes were awarded for her work at Céline.

In December 2017, Philo announced her departure from Céline after finishing the Fall 2018 collection, which was presented in March of that same year.[30]

Hedi Slimane

On January 21, 2018, LVMH announced the appointment of Hedi Slimane as Artistic, Creative and Image Director, set to join the house on February 1. He is to direct all Céline collections, extending the brand's offering with the launch of men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.[31] In September 2018, Slimane presented an updated Celine logo on the brand's Instagram account.[32][33] Slimane created his retail flagship concept stores in Paris, Tokyo, Shanghai, Los Angeles, Madrid, Milan and London.[34] Slimane replaced the brand's tradition style with his personal signature "driven by youth culture, indie rock and sulking adolescence."[35]

Marketing

Dakota Johnson was the first celebrity to wear Slimane’s first Celine collection on the red carpet for the Los Angeles premiere of Suspiria.[36]

Retail

The brand owns almost 150 stores worldwide and is distributed through a selective network including department stores such as Barneys New York (New York), Bergdorf Goodman (New York), Harrods (London) and Galeries Lafayette (Paris).[citation needed]

References

  1. ^ Robert Murphy, The House That Céline Built March 25, 2015
  2. ^ "Céline Finds Next CEO; Plots Online Sales".
  3. ^ "Hedi Slimane named Artistic, Creative and Image Director of Céline". lvmh.com. January 21, 2018. Retrieved January 21, 2018.
  4. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2017-12-27. Retrieved 2016-03-09.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  5. ^ Celine New York Magazine
  6. ^ Celine & Ivana Viplana, Omazic
  7. ^ vogue.com Céline Archived 2014-07-19 at the Wayback Machine
  8. ^ europa-exclusive.com Celine Archived 2014-08-11 at the Wayback Machine
  9. ^ thinkfashion.com Celine Designer Profile
  10. ^ Céline New York Magazine
  11. ^ Vogue France, Céline
  12. ^ "Celine & Ivana Viplana, Omazic - Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD". The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  13. ^ Céline
  14. ^ "Celine & Ivana Viplana, Omazic - Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD". The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  15. ^ "Céline". Archived from the original on 2015-11-18. Retrieved 2014-07-28.
  16. ^ Vogue France, Céline
  17. ^ "Céline". Archived from the original on 2014-07-19. Retrieved 2014-07-08.
  18. ^ "INTERNATIONAL BRIEFS;Moet Hennessy to Buy Celine Fashion House (Published 1996)". The New York Times. 1996-03-22. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  19. ^ "Celine & Ivana Viplana, Omazic - Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD". The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  20. ^ Houpert, Vanessa. "Celine, l'histoire mode de la marque". elle.fr.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  21. ^ Michael Kors Official biography Archived 2008-06-07 at the Wayback Machine
  22. ^ "Pre-Owned Céline - Vintage Céline - Farfetch". www.farfetch.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  23. ^ Ramirez, Elva (2008-10-02). "Celine's Ivana Omazic Takes Final Bow". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  24. ^ Socha, Miles (2008-09-04). "Celine Taps Phoebe Philo". WWD. Retrieved 2020-10-09.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  25. ^ "Pre-Owned Céline - Vintage Céline - Farfetch". www.farfetch.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  26. ^ "Céline appoints Phoebe Philo as creative director". Archived from the original on 2016-03-06. Retrieved 2014-08-05.
  27. ^ "Featured designer: Celine". www.dailytelegraph.com.au. 2013-10-18. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  28. ^ Designer: Céline
  29. ^ "The mastermind behind the transformation of Céline". 2012-11-01. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  30. ^ "Phoebe Philo to Leave Céline". WWD. December 22, 2017.
  31. ^ "Hedi Slimane Named Artistic, Creative and Image Director of Céline". BusinessWire. January 21, 2018.
  32. ^ Pithers, Ellie. "Céline Unveils A New Logo". Retrieved 2018-10-06.
  33. ^ "Fashion's branding crisis". Fast Company. 2018-09-06. Retrieved 2018-10-06.
  34. ^ Hedi Slimane’s store designs ramp up retail at Celine Wallpaper*, AMY SERAFIN, 24 May 2019
  35. ^ A provocative designer has just blown up a 70-year-old brand. But to what end? The Washington Post, Robin Givhan, September 29, 2018
  36. ^ "Dakota Johnson Is The First To Wear Celine By Hedi Slimane On The Red Carpet". Vogue. Retrieved 26 October 2018.

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