|Monte Fitz Roy|
Monte Fitz Roy in 2013
|Elevation||3,405 m (11,171 ft) |
|Prominence||1,951 m (6,401 ft) |
|Location||Patagonia, Argentina—Chile border|
|First ascent||1952 by Lionel Terray & Guido Magnone|
|Easiest route||Franco Argentina (650m., 6a+, 6c/A1)|
Monte Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, or simply Mount Fitz Roy) is a mountain in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is located in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, near El Chaltén village and Viedma lake. First climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone, it remains among the most technically challenging mountains for mountaineers on Earth.
Argentine explorer Francisco Moreno saw the mountain on 2 March 1877. He named it Fitz Roy, in honour of Robert FitzRoy, who, as captain of HMS Beagle had travelled up the Santa Cruz River in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.
Cerro is a Spanish word meaning hill, while Chaltén comes from a Tehuelche (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", due to a cloud that usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy, however, was only one of a number of peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.
It has been agreed by Argentina and Chile that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit, but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined. The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine Santa Cruz Province, which includes its representation on its coat of arms.
- 1952 Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge (aka Franco-Argentine Ridge)(First Ascent - February 2, 1952)
- 1965 Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge (from Argentina) via Supercanaleta (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90deg) in 2-1/2 days (Second Ascent)
- 1968 Southwest Ridge aka The Californian Route (3rd ascent of peak). FA by Yvon Chouinard, Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores and Douglas Tompkins.
- 1972 Southeast Ridge (4th ascent of peak). Ian Wade, Dave Nicol, Mo Anthoine, Guy Lee, Larry Derby & Eddie Birch. Ian & Larry from USA others UK.
- In 1980 following the Col Americano route Gino Casassa, Chilean, monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile, and Walter Bertsch, from Austria, arrived the peak together. Alejandro Izquierdo (Chilean too), arrived just to 2,800 m.
- 1984 Franco Argentina Route by Marcos Couch, Eduardo Brenner, Alberto Bendiger y Pedro Friedrich.
- 2002 Dean Potter, solo Supercanaleta
- 2009 Colin Haley, solo Supercanaleta
- 2009 Matthew McCarron, solo The Californian Route 
- 2012 Jorge Morales and Alejandro Heres broke the speed record of ascent.
- 2014 Between the 12th and 16 February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.
- El Chaltén
- Villa O'Higgins
- Torres del Paine National Park
- Bernardo O'Higgins National Park
- Los Glaciares National Park
- Perito Moreno Glacier
- Cordillera del Paine
- Southern Patagonian Ice Field
- Northern Patagonian Ice Field
- O'Higgins/San Martín Lake
- "Argentina and Chile, Southern - Patagonia Ultra Prominences". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2013-10-05.
- "Border agreement between Chile and Argentina". 1998. Archived from the original on 2016-05-31. Retrieved 2006-08-07.
- Mount Fitz Roy - Difrol.cl
- Moreno, FP (2006) . Viaje a la Patagonia Austral (in Spanish). La Nacion (Elefante Blanco). p. 2. ISBN 987-96054-7-0.
Como este volcán activo no ha sido mencionado por los navegantes ni viajeros, y como el nombre de Chaltén que le dan los indios lo aplican también a otras montañas, me permito llamarle volcán Fitz Roy - English: Since this active volcano has not been mentioned by navigators or travellers, and since the name Chalten that the Indians call it is also applied to other mountains, I allow myself to name it Fitz Roy volcano
- "Map showing border between Chile and Argentina (partly undefined)". Retrieved 2016-06-26.
- Silleck, H (2007-02-03). "Patagonia: Fitzroy". Summitpost.org. Summitpost.org. Retrieved 2009-02-02.
- MacDonald, D (2009-01-15). "Haley Solos Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta". Climbing Hot Flashes. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2016-08-15.
- Thompkins, D; Carter, HA (1969). "Fitz Roy, 1968". American Alpine Journal. 16 (43): 263–9.
- "First chilean climb of Mount Fitz Roy - Perros Alpinos.cl".
- MacDonald, D (2014-02-18). "Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse". Climbing News. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2016-08-15.
- Kearney A, 1993. Mountaineering in Patagonia. Seattle, Washington: Cloudcap.
- Terray L, Conquistadors of the Useless, p. 307-8, Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1963. ISBN 0-89886-778-9
|Wikimedia Commons has media related to Monte Fitz Roy.|
- Andeshandbook: complete description, history, place name and routes of Fitz Roy
- Experience the most challenging mountain
- "Cerro Fitzroy, Argentina/Chile" on Peakbagger
- Fitz Roy at Peakware
- Monte Fitz Roy in History (in Spanish)
- News El Chaltén (in Spanish)
- The extraordinary Fitz Roy's shiny cloud phenomenon