Stefan Glowacz

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Stefan Glowacz
Personal information
Born (1965-03-22) March 22, 1965 (age 58)
Tittmoning, Bavaria, West Germany
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Medal record
Sport Roccia
Gold medal – first place 1985 Lead
Rock Master
Gold medal – first place 1987 Lead
Gold medal – first place 1988 Lead
Gold medal – first place 1992 Lead
IFSC World Championships
Silver medal – second place 1993 Innsbruck Lead
Updated on 1 April 2013.

Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Tittmoning) is a German professional rock climber and adventurer.[1] He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's strongest competition climbers and sport climber a few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada,[2] Patagonia and Antarctica.

Competition climbing[edit]

Notable ascents[edit]

  • In 1994, Glowacz freed Des Kaisers neue Kleider [it] (translated: The Emperor's new Clothes) in the Kaiser Mountains at (X+/8b+/5.14a), one of the hardest-ever big wall climbing routes in world.
  • First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
  • In 2001, Glowacz became the first-ever person to complete the "Alpine Trilogy [it]" of the hardest multi-pitch big wall climbing routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including Thomas Huber's "End of Silence" (X/8b/5.13d) near Berchtesgaden and Beat Kammerlander's "Silbergeier" ("Silver Vulture") (X/8b/5.13d) in the Rätikon
  • In 2006, he was nominated for the Piolet d'Or' for a 27-pitch route (IX+/7c+/5.13a, A2, M4) up the north wall of the Mullarón in Patagonia.

Books, Films[edit]

  • Jäger des Augenblicks
  • Richtig Freiklettern
  • Rocks around the World
  • Hoch hinaus
  • Titlis – Chronik einer Erstbegehung, DVD
  • The Race, DVD
  • On the Rocks - Leben an den Fingerspitzen (2005, Piper)
  • Cerro Torre: Scream of the Stone (1991, directed by Werner Herzog), DVD
  • Roraima: Climbers of the Lost World (2013, Red Bull)

See also[edit]


  1. ^ Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering. Rocky Mountain Books Ltd. pp. 407–. ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
  2. ^ George, Caroline (June 27, 2008). "More Details on Baffin's "Long Way Home"". The Alpinist. Retrieved 27 November 2010.

External links[edit]