Irani café

Yazdani Bakery, Fort

Irani cafes or Iranian cafes are Iranian or Persian style cafes in Mumbai, Maharashtra, India. They were originally opened by Persian immigrants to India in the 19th century. Today, Mumbai boasts the largest number of Irani cafés, which are very popular for Irani chai (tea).^{[citation needed]}

Iranian cafés used to be numerous and popular but competition from modern cafés and fast food restaurants have left them behind. Many have closed down or are changing into pubs and restaurants or have moved to other cities in India. Younger Iranis with higher education and better skills have become interested in more lucrative vocations in India and abroad, and they do not wish to carry on with the legacy of the Irani cafés of their parents. In the 1950s, there were 350 Irani cafés and today, only 25. One of the most popular eating places is the 102-year-old Kyani Café, a heritage landmark in south Mumbai.

History

Yazdani Bakery Sign

In an article in the Indian Express on “Irani cafés: Inheritance of loss”, Naomi Lobo has traced the background of these cafés:

When the Zoroastrian Iranians came to India in the 19th century, they had no riches and were in search of a better livelihood. Mumbai (Bombay), at that time, was already home to another Zoroastrian community, the Parsis. A couple of Iranians worked in Parsi homes as caretakers and met in the evenings to discuss the life they had left behind, and their future prospects. One evening, a man served tea to everyone and charged them a small amount. The result: A business was born, of serving tea. And this was the beginning of an Irani café.

Irani Cafes flourished in Mumbai followed by Pune and Hyderabad. Pune had its fair share of these cafes, which are today reduced to just a handful.

Tea cafes

Tea cafes serving Irani chai were brought to India by Persian traders. Irani Chai is a blend of brewed tea leaves, boiled milk and sweetened condensed milk. This kind of tea is available at small and old cafes and is usually served with sweet and salty Osmania biscuits. A particular type of Iranian Chai is Khade Chammach ki chai (tea of upright spoon), named because the cup has so much sugar that the spoon stands upright”

Menu

Britannia cafe another Irani cafe at Ballard Estate

Mumbai cafés may serve ‘brun maska’ (bread and butter) and ‘paani kam chai’ (a strong Iranian tea), or khari chai (very strong tea), mutton samosas, and Kheema Pavs, akuri (a scrambled spicy egg preparation), berry Pulao, vegetable puff, Veg/Chicken Dhansak (a spicy broth with lentils, pulses) and Biryani, cherry cream custard, cheese khari biscuits, plain khari biscuits, coconut jam and milk biscuits and Dukes Raspberry drink. The Parsi Bhonu (meal) is available at most Irani restaurants.

Many Irani cafes offer sweet and salted biscuits like Rawa (semolina), Til Rawa Coconut, nan-khatai (sweet, crisp flaky Irani biscuits), Madeira-Cake (tutti-frutti biscuits).

Writing for the Hindu Business Line, on “Mumbai's Irani hotspots” [1] Sarika Mehta says: - “The classic format of these cafes is basic with a subtle colonial touch; high ceilings with black, bent wooden chairs (now cane in some cafes), wooden tables with marble tops and glass jars that allow a peek into the goodies they hold. With huge glass mirrors on the walls to create a feeling of space, visitors are greeted with eagerness and a whiff of baking. The speed of operations is impressive and service quite hassle-free."

Poem

Kayani and Company, interior

Nissim Ezekiel wrote a poem based on instruction boards found in his favourite Irani café; the now defunct Bastani and Company, in Dhobi Talao, Mumbai. “No talking to cashier/No smoking/ No fighting/ No credit/ No outside food/ No sitting long/ No talking loud/ No spitting/ No bargaining/ No water to outsiders/ No change/ No telephone/ No match sticks/ No discussing gambling/ No newspaper/ No combing/ No beef/ No leg on chair/ No hard liquor allowed/ No address enquiry/ — By order.”

Noted People

1. Mr. Aflatoon Shokriye, second generation owner of the Kyani café Mumbai
2. Mr. Farooq Shokri, of Kyani café Mumbai
3. Sharook K, partner of the Sassanian Bakery and Boulangerie, Dhobi Talao, Mumbai
4. Boman Kohinoor, the owner of the Britannia & Co restaurant and one-time partner of Bastani, Mumbai
5. Zend M Zend, owner of Yazdani Bakery, Mumbai
6. Mr. Sarosh Naushir Irani, Mr Bomi and Ms Perrin, of B Merwan & Co bakery, Mumbai
7. Mr. Haji Darvez, who now runs a chain of Irani cafes in Hyderabad
8. Mr. Ramzan Ali Jouker, owner of Madina restaurant near Charminar in Hyderabad.

External links

• India's Iranian cafes fading out by Jayshree Bajoria for BBC News, Mumbai
• Mumbai's Irani hotspots – Sarika Mehta in Hindu Business line
• Irani cafés: Inheritance of loss by Naomi Lobo for Expressindia.com
• AOL News Blog - Sunanda Sudhir
• Irani Chai,Mumbai - a research project on Mumbai's Irani cafes