Mount Alberta seen from near the summit of Diadem Peak
|Elevation||3,619 m (11,873 ft)|
|Prominence||819 m (2,687 ft)|
|Listing||Mountains of Alberta|
|Location||Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada|
|Range||Winston Churchill Range|
|Topo map||NTS 83C/06|
|First ascent||1925 by a Japanese team|
|Easiest route||rock/snow climb|
The base was reached via Fortress Lake in 1901 by the German explorer, Jean Habel. Photographs of the peak generated significant interest among mountaineers. The first ascent in 1925 was made by members of the Japanese Alpine Club: S. Hashimoto, H. Hatano, T. Hayakawa, Y. Maki, Y.Mita, N. Okabe. The team was guided by Hans Fuhrer, H. Kohler and J. Weber. After some difficulty in dealing with an overhang and a steep series of ledges, they reached the top and ceremoniously planted an ice axe. The ice axe was left as a symbol of their achievement. Parties on subsequent ascents took parts of the axe to the American Alpine Club in New York and back home to Japan.
The second ascent was completed in 1948 by Americans Fred Ayers and John Oberlin. In 1958, the first ascent by a Canadian team was completed by Neil Brown, Hans Gmoser, Leo Grillmair, Heinz Kahl and Sarka Spinkova.
There are a number of standard climbing routes:
- Japanese Route (Normal Route) V 5.6
- North Face VI 5.9 A3
- North-East Ridge V 5.10
See also 
- "Mount Alberta". PeakFinder.com. http://peakfinder.com/peakfinder.asp?PeakName=Mount+Alberta. Retrieved 2003-11-07.
- "Mount Alberta". Bivouac.com. http://www.bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=3. Retrieved 2008-05-24.