Gieves & Hawkes: Difference between revisions
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'''Contemporary Yet Timeless''' |
'''Contemporary Yet Timeless''' |
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All over the world, Savile Row stands for the very best in men's tailoring and so it is fitting that Gieves & Hawkes should be 'No.1 Savile Row' a remarkable address. |
All over the world, Savile Row stands for the very best in men's tailoring and so it is fitting that [http://www.gievesandhawkes.com Gieves & Hawkes] should be 'No.1 Savile Row' a remarkable address. |
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In a Georgian building at the head of Savile Row stands the majestic construction that is No.1, home to Gieves & Hawkes. Sartorial artisans have occupied this building for nearly a century and it is just that which makes Gieves & Hawkes the epitome of English excellence in modern day tailoring. |
In a Georgian building at the head of Savile Row stands the majestic construction that is No.1, home to Gieves & Hawkes. Sartorial artisans have occupied this building for nearly a century and it is just that which makes Gieves & Hawkes the epitome of English excellence in modern day tailoring. |
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Revision as of 11:56, 4 December 2010
| Company type | Private |
|---|---|
| Industry | Retailer |
| Founded | 1771 |
| Founder | Thomas Hawkes James Watson Gieve |
| Headquarters | Savile Row, London, United Kingdom |
| Products | Clothing, Fashion |
| Owner | USI Holdings Limited |
| Website | gievesandhawkes.com |
Gieves & Hawkes are a bespoke gentleman's tailor located at №1 Savile Row, London.
Founded in 1771 by Thomas Hawke and James Gieve but now owned through Hong Kong conglomerate USI Holdings Limited,[1] they are one of the oldest continual bespoke tailoring companies in the world.[citation needed]
The company holds a number of Royal Warrants,[2] and provides ready-to-wear clothes, as well as bespoke and military tailoring.
History
Gieves & Hawkes' business was originally based on catering for the needs of the British Army and the Royal Navy, and hence by association the British Royal family.
After coming to London in 1760, Thomas Hawkes set up his first shop in 1771 in Brewer Street.[3] Catering for gentlemen, his main clients were commanders of the British Army, through which King George III became a customer. Having expanded his retail operation by moving to No.17 (later number No.14) Piccadilly in 1793,[4] Hawkes gained the first of many Royal Warrants in 1807.[3]
In 1835, James Watson Gieve was employed by 'Old Mel' Meredith, a Portsmouth-based tailor by appointment to the Royal Navy. Meredith tailored the uniform Admiral Lord Nelson was wearing when he was killed in action aboard HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar[citation needed]. In 1852, Gieve partnered with Joseph Galt, and in 1887, Gieve purchased the remaining shares to form Gieves & Co. He died in 1888.[3]
On December 23, 1912, Hawkes & Co. bought №1 Savile Row from the Royal Geographical Society for £38,000,[3] in part because the firm had dressed so many explorers. In 1974, Gieves Ltd acquired Hawkes & Co., and the freehold of №1 Savile Row. The company was renamed Gieves & Hawkes.[3]
Customers past and present include: Winston Churchill, Admiral Nelson, 1st Duke of Wellington, Charlie Chaplin, Michael Jackson, David Beckham, Mikael Gorbachev, Bill Clinton, George W. Bush, Diana Princess of Wales and her sons William and Harry.[citation needed]
Current operations
Contemporary Yet Timeless
All over the world, Savile Row stands for the very best in men's tailoring and so it is fitting that Gieves & Hawkes should be 'No.1 Savile Row' a remarkable address.
In a Georgian building at the head of Savile Row stands the majestic construction that is No.1, home to Gieves & Hawkes. Sartorial artisans have occupied this building for nearly a century and it is just that which makes Gieves & Hawkes the epitome of English excellence in modern day tailoring.
Gieves & Hawkes formed from outstanding businesses: Gieves, founded in 1785 and Hawkes, founded in 1771. An extraordinary historical partnership, enriching the magnificent full dress occasions of British State Ceremonies whilst Monarchs and leaders alike look to Gieves & Hawkes to meet their own exacting requirements.
Gentlemen appreciate the craft of the Gieves & Hawkes tailor. Carefully constructing garments, the Gieves & Hawkes sartorial artisan looks to perfection and quality. Understatedly stylish gentlemen understand the worth associated with Gieves & Hawkes luxury goods and the knowledge and tradition behind the product.
With three Royal Warrants to their name Gieves & Hawkes are internationally recognised as purveyors of quintessential English style. With a rich history and centuries of craftsmanship and innovation to reference, Gieves & Hawkes have a profound past and continue to represent quality, innovation and service of the highest degree.
Gieves & Hawkes exhibit all the characteristics of perfect craftsmanship and quality, providing luxury that lasts a lifetime.
Fast becoming the ultimate emporium for English sartorial dressing Gieves & Hawkes flagship continues to stand at No 1 Savile Row housing bespoke workrooms, design and management teams. No 1 heads a strong UK retail network of 14 stores and concessions and an e-commerce site.
The distribution of Gieves & Hawkes also continues to expand with nearly 100 fine stores and concessions in Hong Kong, China and Taiwan.
UK and Ireland stores
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Royal Warrants
Gieves & Hawkes hold a very close connection with the Royal family, having dressed them for many years, and being the proud holder of three Royal Warrants. We have held warrants continually for over 200 years. The first Royal warrant was awarded to Thomas Hawkes, in 1809, by HM King George III and Queen Charlotte as a Velvet Cap Maker. Since then we have dressed many male and female members of the Royal Family, from HM Queen Victoria to King George VI, and are proud of our heritage and our continual connection with the Royal family.
Royal Warrants began as a way for the Royal household to identify the country’s most skilled and talented trades people. It was Queen Victoria who ensured the Royal Warrants gained the prestige they receive today, and are a mark of recognition to those who are regular suppliers of goods and services to certain members of the Royal family.
Gieves & Hawkes presently have all three main Royal Warrants, appointed to HM Queen Elizabeth II, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh, and HRH The Prince of Wales.[2][5]
Timeline
- 1732 - Number One Savile constructed as town house of the Fairfax family.[5]
- 1760 - Thomas Hawkes comes to London, and is employed as a journeyman (a runner) for Mr Moy, a velvet cap-maker on Swallow Street. Heavy drinking Moy leaves the socially aware Hawkes to cultivate his royal clientele.[6]
- 1771 - With Moy dead, Hawkes sets up a hatter and tailor shop in Brewer Street.[3] His top client was King George III, who later ordered several thousand scarlet uniforms for the British army, and his son the Prince Regent, the future George IV.
- 1793 - Hawkes has established his expanded shop at No.17 (later number No.14) Piccadilly,[4] described as "Helmet, Hat and Cap-maker to the King."[3]
- 1809 - Thomas Hawkes receives his first Royal Warrant, based on his work for King George III
- 1818 - Burlington Arcade, a glassed-over esplanade of shops adjacent to Burlington House is constructed under the patronage of Lord George Cavendish who resides at No 1 Savile Row, where Beau Brummell was a guest before his fall and exile in 1814
- 1822 - James Watson Gieve is born in Chumleigh, Devon
- 1850 - Having handed his business over to his nephews, by 1850 Hawkes & Co is being run by H. T. White. As the personal tailor of Sir Garnet Wolseley, he develops a special form of the pith helmet known as the Wolseley pattern, which has an extended brim at the rear for better sun protection for the neck. It is still worn today by the Royal Marines as formal dress.[3]
- 1835 - James Watson Gieve is employed by 'Old Mel' Meredith, a Portsmouth-based tailor by appointment to the Royal Navy. Meredith tailors the uniform Admiral Lord Nelson is wearing when killed in action aboard HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar
- 1852 - James Gieve acquires a partnership with Joseph Galt (established in 1823 and incorporating Meredith); christening the firm Galt & Gieves.[7]
- 1871 - of ownership №1 passed to the Royal Geographical Society, which added the magnificent Map Room and galleried Library which remain the focal point of the fine interiors today.[5] Henry Morton Stanley, sent to find him by the New York Herald newspaper in 1869, finds David Livingstone in the town of Ujiji on the shores of Lake Tanganyika on 27 October 1871, clad in Hawkes & Co. dress from head to toe.[8]
- 1873 - the body of explorer David Livingstone lies in state at No.1 Savile Row, before burial at Westminster Abbey.[9]
- 1887 - James Gieve becomes sole owner of Galt & Gieves, renaming it Gieves & Co.
- 1888 - James Gieve dies
- 1912 - On December 23, №1 Savile Row is purchased from the Royal Geographical Society by Hawkes & Co. for £38,000,[3] in part because the firm has dressed so many explorers. This was at a time when the international reputation of Savile Row, the famous street and centre for fine craft tailoring was growing.[5] Another £10,000 is spent on converting the premises to suit the business. Hawkes & Co. is appointed to dress the Honourable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms, the British Monarch's nearest bodyguard
- 1920s - becomes the first Savile Row tailor to make and (secretly) sell ready-to-wear suits
- 1935 - a period uniform is made for actor Charles Laughton for his role as Captain Bligh in the film Mutiny on the Bounty. Moy had made uniforms for the original Captain Blight[10]
- 1955 - Gieves is depicted in the film The Man Who Never Was when a German/Irish agent tries to verify the existence of the title character.
- 1974 - Gieves Ltd acquires Hawkes, and the precious freehold of No I Savile Row. The company is renamed Gieves & Hawkes
- 1980s - licenses Rochester, New York based manufacturer Hickey Freeman to produce a licensed version of its clothes for distribution in North America
- 1981 - H.R.H. The Prince of Wales marries Lady Diana Spencer at St Paul's Cathedral. Gieves & Hawkes make the uniform for Prince Charles
- 2002 - having had a very poor 2001/2 trading period where it lost £1million, Gieves & Hawkes plc accepts an offer from Hong Kong's USI Holdings Limited, valuing the company at £11.5million.[11] Ends Hickey Freeman deal
- 2005 - Gieves & Hawkes make morning coats for The Princes William and Harry to wear at the wedding of their father Prince Charles to Camilla Parker-Bowles (now Duchess of Cornwall).
- 2007 - Robert Gieve, the fifth and last generation of the family to serve Gieves & Hawkes, dies
- 2008 - gives Hickey Freeman new license to produce version of its clothes for distribution in North America
References
- ^ "Gieves & Hawkes". Hoovers. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
- ^ a b "Gieves & Hawkes - Company Website". Gieves & Hawkes. Retrieved 2009-12-20.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i "'Cork Street and Savile Row Area - Savile Row', Survey of London: volumes 31 and 32". British History. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
- ^ a b "London Look - Man's wool suit, c. 1916 Tailored by Hawkes and Company, 14 Piccadilly". Museum of London. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
- ^ a b c d Cite error: The named reference
ElegantLifewas invoked but never defined (see the help page). - ^ http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/History/History_of_Savile_Row/
- ^ "No1 Savile Row". EM Online. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
- ^ http://issuu.com/sichi/docs/dt01
- ^ G. Bruce Boyer (Summer 1996). "On Savile Row". Cigar Aficionado. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
- ^ Stacy L Ritz (1990-05-06). "A Proper Gentleman For More Than 200 Years, Princes, Politicians And Privates Have Turned To Gieves & Hawkes To Look Their Best". Sun-Sentinel. Retrieved 2009-12-21.
- ^ "A Hong Kong Takeover for Gieves & Hawkes". 2002-04-25. Retrieved 2009-12-21.