Buttergate
Buttergate was a 2021 event in which Canadian butter became more difficult to spread due to increased hardness. Canadian consumers expressed disappointment that butter stoped becoming soft at room temperature. Food experts attributed the hardness to an increased use in palm oil in dairy cattle diet, prompting the Dairy Farmers of Canada to recommend to farmers to cease adding palm oil to cow's diets.
Butter manufacturing
-and-Milk-(left).jpg)
Butter consistency is influenced by both the balance of ingredients added to milk fat, and the diet of the dairy cattle that produce the milk fat.[1]
Butter ingredients
The primary ingredient in butter is milk fat, although butter also contains saturated fats including lard and tallow which are solid at room temperature and mono- and polyunsaturated fats including olive oil and canola oil which are liquid at room temperature.[1] Butter hardness is a result of the percentage mix of those ingredients.[1] While European butter rules mandate fat content typically in the 82% to 85% range, Canadian regulations require 80% of butter to be milk fat.[1]
Milk-fat production
During the 2021–2022 global supply chain crisis and the COVID19 pandemic, Canadian researcher Sylvain Charlebois notes in the Journal de Montreal on February 15 2021 that butter's firmness at room temperature was an issue. Canadian recipe writer Julie Van Rosendaal subsequently suggested that dairy farmers may have increased their use of palm oil in dairy cattle's diet, increasing the hardness of the milk fat they produced.[1] Palm oil contains palmitic acid, has a melting point of 63 degrees celsius, and increases the hardness of butter.[1]
Timeline
The first recorded tweet about butter firmness was sent on December 30 2020 by Charlebois [2]. Users also started replying to a February 2021 tweet by Van Rosendaal in which she asked about other people's experience of butter not softening at room temperature.[1][3] Within a week the Rosendaal’s follow-up article in CBC, the surrounding scandal was labeled Buttergate.[3][4]
Causes
Van Rosendaal blamed the hardening on both an increase in home baking during the COVID19 pandemic lockdowns, and an increase use of palm oil.[5] Retail butter sales increased 12.4% in 2020, while the number of dairy cows in Canada for years, with a cull occurring when milk production reduced in response to school closures during the COVID19 pandemic; schools had previously bought milk for student consumption.[1][5]
The Dairy Farmers of Canada initially rejected Van Rosendaal's assertions, before switching tactics to what The Economist called 'grovelling,"[6] making two statements in February 2021:
"There are many different factors that can have subtle impacts on the taste, texture and the melting point of butter, including differences in a cow’s diet from one region to another or from one season to the next"
"Exact cow feed rations are determined at the farm level in consultation with animal nutrition experts and may impact the complexity of butter in various ways.”[1]
Recent studies published in high-ranking journals suggest that a strong correlation between palmatic acid and butter firmness existed, disputing the Dairy Farmers of Canada's claim that nothing was wrong.[7][8]
Sylvain Charlebois, of the Agri-food Analytics Lab at Dalhousie University noted that consumers initially blamed colder weather but opined that the most likely cause was an increase of palm oil in cow diet.[9][5][10]
Impact
In response to Buttergate, Dairy Farmers of Canada and The Quebec Milk Producers Association recommended that dairy farmers stop feeding palm oil to dairy cattle.[3] Quebec based dairy cooperative Agropur, welcomed The Quebec Milk Producers Association's advice.[3] David Christensen, professor emeritus of animal science at the University of Saskatchewan, stated that the directives to not use palm oil will present production challenges for dairy farmers, as there was no equally effective alternative as palm oil for boosting fatty milk production.[3]
The Dairy Farmers of Canada created working group on the use of Palm Oil, which produced its final report in January 2022.[11] The working group concluded that butter hardening could not be "solely attributed" to palm oil supplementation.[11] The 2022 study by Janet Music et al, Data deficits and transparency: What led to Canada’s ‘buttergate’ published in Trends in Food Science & Technology correlated palmitic acid content in butter with hardness, critiqued the lack of transparency in the Canadian industry dairy supply, which it linked to an inability to make firm conclusions linking agricultural practises with consumer products.[7]
References
- ^ a b c d e f g h i van Rosendaal, Julie Van (20 February 2021). "Buttergate: Butter not as soft as it used to be? The pandemic and our urge to bake is partly to blame – along with palm oil". The Globe and Mail.
- ^ https://twitter.com/FoodProfessor/status/1343922660372307970
- ^ a b c d e Fieber, Palmela (2 March 2021). "'Buttergate' goes viral, putting palm oil fat supplements in spotlight". CBC.
- ^ "I can't believe it's not melting! 'Buttergate' worries Canadians". The Daily Telegraph. London. 25 Feb 2021. p. 15. ProQuest 2492836754.
- ^ a b c "Buttergate: Why are Canadians complaining about hard butter?". BBC News. 23 February 2021.
- ^ "Canadians are in a flutter about butter". The Economist. 27 May 2021.
- ^ a b Music, Janet; Charlebois, Sylvain; Marangoni, Alejandro G.; Ghazani, Saeed M.; Burgess, Jesse; Proulx, Amy; Somogyi, Simon; Patelli, Yannick (1 May 2022). "Data deficits and transparency: What led to Canada's 'buttergate'". Trends in Food Science & Technology. 123: 334–342. doi:10.1016/j.tifs.2022.02.005. S2CID 246784393.
- ^ Marangoni, Alejandro G.; Ghazani, Saeed M.; Gammage, Sarah; Van Rosendaal, Julie; Music, Janet; Charlebois, Sylvain (30 May 2022). "Higher palmitic acid and dipalmitoyloleate levels are correlated to increased firmness in commercial butter". Food Chemistry. 377: 131991. doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2021.131991. PMID 34995963. S2CID 245631321.
- ^ Charlebois, Dr Sylvain (2021-02-23). "Opinion: Buttergate and the 'hard' truth about Canadian butter". Montreal. Retrieved 2022-08-23.
- ^ Kestler-D'Amours, Jillian (4 March 2021). "'Buttergate': Why isn't butter softening in Canada?". Al Jazeera.
- ^ a b Blair, Jennifer (13 April 2022). "There's a lesson in 'buttergate' for all farmers, says food writer". Alberta Farmer Express.
External links
- @FoodProfessor (December 29, 2020). "Is it me or is #butter much harder now at room temperature?" (Tweet) – via Twitter.
- @dinnerwithjulie (February 5, 2021). "Something is up with our butter supply, and I'm going to get to the bottom of it. Have you noticed it's no longer soft at room temperature? Watery? Rubbery?" (Tweet) – via Twitter.