Ramón Julián Puigblanqué
Puigblanque competing at Imst, 2010 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Nationality | Spanish | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | Vic (Barcelona, Spain) | November 9, 1981||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 159 cm (5 ft 3 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 48 kg (106 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Known for | Winning 2 World Championships and 21 World Cup stages | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Updated on November 13, 2017 |
Ramón Julián Puigblanque (also known as Ramonet, which means little Ramon in Catalan language; born November 9, 1981, in Vic) is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007[2] and 2011,[3] three European Championships, in 2004[4] 2010[5] and 2015,[6] and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010.[7] From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages.[8] He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.
Climbing career
[edit]Competition climbing
[edit]He started climbing when he was a child with his parents[9] and competed in senior categories from 2001. On November 17, 2002, he took his first victory and first podium in the Lead World Cup, in Kranj, which was the last stage of the 2002 season.[10]
In 2004, he won the gold medal at the European Championships in Lecco, Italy.[4]
In 2007, he took his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain,[2] and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[11]
In 2010, he won his first Lead World Cup title, with three wins and a second place[7] and took his second gold medal at the European Championships in Imst, Austria.[5]
In 2011, he won his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy[3] and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[12]
Rock climbing
[edit]On March 8, 2003, he came to wider attention with the first free ascent of La Rambla, in Siurana, one of the first 9a+ (5.15a) sport climbing routes in history, and the highest grade at that time.[13] In the same year he ended the Lead World Cup in second place with three wins, two seconds and two podiums finishes. The Cup was won by Alexandre Chabot, with five wins and two seconds.[14]
On May 29, 2006, he succeeded in onsighting the 8c (5.14b) sport route Suma O in Cuenca, Spain. Puigblanque became the fourth person ever to onsight at grade 8c after Yuji Hirayama, Tomáš Mrázek and Patxi Usobiaga.[15][16]
On October 11, 2011, he became the third person ever to onsight a sport climbing route at grade 8c+ (5.14c), after Patxi Usobiaga and Adam Ondra, with the onsight of The Crew in Rifle, Colorado.[17][18]
Rankings
[edit]Discipline | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 8 | 10 | 2 | 10 | 4 | 5 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 6 | 6 | 16 | 30 |
![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6c/Ramamon_Puigblanque.jpg/300px-Ramamon_Puigblanque.jpg)
Youth[19]
Discipline | 2000 Juniors |
---|---|
Lead | 13 |
Adult[19]
Discipline | 2001 | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 6 | 7 | 10 | 1 | 16 | 1 | 4 | 2 | 9 |
Discipline | 2002 | 2004 | 2006 | 2008 | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 3 | 1 | 30 | 5 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 55 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
[edit]Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2002 | 1 | 1 | ||
2003 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 7 |
2004 | 0 | |||
2005 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
2006 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
2007 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
2008 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2009 | 1 | 1 | ||
2010 | 3 | 1 | 4 | |
2011 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 7 |
2012 | 3 | 1 | 4 | |
2013 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
2015 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
Total | 21 | 14 | 8 | 43 |
Notable ascents
[edit]The table below shows the impressively large number of routes graded 8a (5.13b) or more ascended by Puigblanque in about 16 years, from August 10, 2001 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to November 27, 2017. The total number is 1123, of which 13 were at 9a+ (5.15a) and 345 were onsights, including 1 onsight at 8c+ (5.14c).[20][21]
Grade | Redpoint | Flash | On-sight | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
9a+ (5.15a) | 13 | 13 | ||
9a (5.14d) | 36 | 36 | ||
8c+ (5.14c) | 85 | 1 | 86 | |
8c/8c+ | 4 | 4 | ||
8c (5.14b) | 134 | 2 | 6 | 142 |
8b+ (5.14a) | 152 | 2 | 22 | 176 |
8b (5.13d) | 134 | 2 | 55 | 191 |
8a+ (5.13c) | 100 | 2 | 92 | 194 |
8a (5.13b) | 105 | 7 | 169 | 281 |
Total | 763 | 15 | 345 | 1123 |
Redpointed routes
[edit]9b (5.15b):
9a+ (5.15a):
- Nit de bruixes - Margalef (ESP) - July 1, 2012 - Second ascent (first ascent by Iker Pou)[23]
- Catxasa - Santa Linya (ESP) - June 26, 2012 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma, 2011)[24]
- Demencia Senil - Margalef (ESP) - October 11, 2010 - Third ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[25]
- Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - March 21, 2009 - Third ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[26]
- Directa Open your mind - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 8, 2008 - First ascent[27]
- Realization - Céüse (FRA) - July 28, 2008 - Sixth ascent
- La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - March 8, 2003 - First ascent of the extended version of the route[28]
9a (5.14d):
- San Ku Kaï - Entraygues (FRA) - August 4, 2011[29]
- Le Cadre Nouvelle Version - Céüse (FRA) - August 3, 2011
- Duele la realidad - Oliana (ESP) - November 1, 2010 - First ascent[30]
- Samfaina - Margalef (ESP) - July 4, 2010 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[31]
- Era Vella - Margalef (ESP) - June 5, 2010 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)
- Supernowa - Vadiello (ESP) - September 12, 2009
- El Gran Bellanco - Montanejos (ESP) - May 1, 2009 - First ascent by Pedro Pons, 2003
- La Novena enmienda - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 9, 2008
- Fabelita r2 - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 9, 2008
- Fuck The system - Santa Linya (ESP) - November 29, 2008[32]
- Victimas Perez - Margalef (ESP) - October 26, 2008 - First ascent
- Gancho perfecto - Margalef (ESP) - July 5, 2008 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[33]
- El templo del cafe - Alquezar (ESP) - March 24, 2008
- M. ALBA - Savassona (ESP) - December 2, 2007
- Definicion de resistencia democrata - Terradets (ESP) - November 20, 2007[34]
- Esclatamasters - Perles (ESP) - April 17, 2006 - First ascent
- Estado critico - Siurana (ESP) - March 15, 2004 - First ascent[35]
- KinematiX - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 13, 2002
8c+ (5.14c):
8c (5.14b):
See also
[edit]- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- History of rock climbing
- Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
[edit]- ^ "Ramon Julian Sends Three New 5.14's in Spain". rockandice.com. 4 April 2013. Retrieved 11 May 2013.
- ^ a b "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ a b Vinicio Stefanello. "Final Lead Men report". arco2011.it. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ a b "UIAA European Championship - Lecco (ITA) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. 27 June 2004. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ a b Vinicio Stefanello (21 September 2010). "European Championship 2010, the results". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "European Championship - Chamonix (FRA) 2015". ifsc-climbing.org. 12 July 2015. Retrieved 26 July 2017.
- ^ a b "Ramón Julián, campeón de la Copa del Mundo" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 15 November 2010. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ a b IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ Xavier Maduell (December 2010). "Entrevista a Ramon Julián" (in Spanish). feec.cat. Archived from the original on 14 April 2013. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "UIAA Worldcup - Kranj (SLO) 2002 - Result: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 17 November 2002. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "World Cup Lead 2007 won by Usobiaga and Vidmar". planetmountain.com. 20 November 2007. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "Puigblanque reigns in Spain, along with Eiter, Kim and Markovic". planetmountain.com. 29 November 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 17 March 2003. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2003: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 31 December 2003. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ Dougald MacDonald (June 2006). "Ramonet Onsights 5.14b". climbing.com. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "Ramonet, 8c a vista" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 31 May 2006. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "Ramon Julien Puigblanque 8c+ on-sight". planetmountain.com. 13 October 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ "Ramon Julián escala 8c+ a vista con 'The crew', en Rifle (EE.UU)" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 13 October 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
- ^ a b c d e IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Puigblanque's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ Puigblanque, Ramon Julian. "List of climbed routes". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
- ^ Puigblanque, Ramon Julian. "List of climbed boulder problems". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
- ^ "Mejorando Imagen". Retrieved September 10, 2022.
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (July 2, 2012). "9a+ e 9a+/b per Ramonet". Archived from the original on March 5, 2016. Retrieved July 6, 2012.
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (June 27, 2012). "Ramonet, 9a+ a Santa Linya". Archived from the original on March 5, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2012.
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (October 13, 2010). "Ramonet: 2^ ripetizione di Demencia Senil 9a+". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ Björn Pohl (22 March 2009). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "3rd ascent of Papichulo by Ramonet". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (December 10, 2008). "Santa Linya e Ramon Julian Puigblanque". Retrieved August 30, 2012.
- ^ desnivel.com, ed. (March 17, 2003). "Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ desnivel.com, ed. (August 8, 2011). "Otro noveno de Ramonet con 'Sankukai' en Entraygues". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ Björn Pohl (2 November 2010). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "9a FA by Ramonet". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ Björn Pohl (5 July 2010). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Ramonet makes 2nd ascent of Samfaina, 9a". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ (in Spanish) desnivel.com, ed. (December 1, 2008). "Ramón Julián repite Fuck the system (9a)". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
- ^ desnivel.com, ed. (July 7, 2008). "Ramón Julián repite Gancho perfecto (9a)". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ desnivel.com, ed. (November 22, 2007). "Ramonet repite Definición de resistencia demócrata (9a+)". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ desnivel.com, ed. (March 17, 2004). "Ramón Julián en Estado crítico". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (October 13, 2011). "Ramon Julian 8c+ a vista". Archived from the original on October 16, 2011. Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ Björn Pohl (13 September 2009). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Ramonet on form". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ^ ukclimbing.com, ed. (June 2006). "8c onsight by Ramonet". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
External links
[edit]![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/30px-Commons-logo.svg.png)
- Spanish rock climbers
- 1981 births
- Living people
- Competitors at the 2017 World Games
- World Games gold medalists for Spain
- World Games medalists in sport climbing
- Competitors at the 2005 World Games
- Competitors at the 2009 World Games
- IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists
- Sportspeople from Vic
- IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
- Spanish competition climbers
- Medalists at the 2013 World Games