Sasha DiGiulian

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Sasha DiGiulian
Sasha DiGiulian.jpg
Sasha DiGiulian in 2019
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1992-10-23) October 23, 1992 (age 30)
Washington, D.C., U.S.
EducationColumbia University
Height5 ft 2 in (157 cm)[1]
Websitesashadigiulian.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Medal record
IFSC World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2011 Arco Female Overall
Silver medal – second place 2011 Arco Bouldering
Pan-American Championships
Gold medal – first place 2012 Venezuela Combined
Gold medal – first place 2012 Venezuela Sport
Gold medal – first place 2012 Venezuela Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2010 Ecuador Combined
Gold medal – first place 2010 Ecuador Sport
USA Climbing National Championships
Silver medal – second place 2014 Sport
Gold medal – first place 2012 Sport
Gold medal – first place 2011 Sport
Bronze medal – third place 2011 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2010 Sport
Bronze medal – third place 2009 Sport
Updated on 14:53, 10 January 2020 (UTC).
Sasha DiGiulian on Pure Imagination 5.14c route on the main Chocolate Factory wall in Red River Gorge of Kentucky, 2011

Sasha DiGiulian (born October 23, 1992) is a professional rock climber. She won the gold medal at the 2011 International Federation of Sport Climbing World Championships in Arco, Italy, for Female Overall, placed Silver in Bouldering and Bronze in Duel.[2] Sasha won multi-year PanAmerican championships and is a three-time US National Champion. She has climbed over 30 First Female Ascents as well as over a dozen significant First Ascents, including "Rolihlahla" in South Africa, a Big Wall in Brazil in 2016 and The Misty Wall in Yosemite in 2017. In 2011 she redpointed multiple 5.14c (8c+), onsighted two of 5.14a (8b+) and four of 5.13d (8b). In 2013 she was the first American woman to redpoint Era Vella 5.14d (9a), and established the First Female Ascent of Alpine Big Wall route, Bellavista, 5.14b (8c).[3] In 2015, she became the first woman to free climb Magic Mushroom (7c+), one of the most difficult routes on the north face of the Eiger.[4] In 2017 she did the first female ascent of Big Wall in Madagascar, Mora Mora (5.14b/8c), climbing it with Edu Marin in what was also the second free ascent of Mora Mora.[5][6]

Biography[edit]

DiGiulian started her climbing career at the age of 6 and began competing at age 7. Prior to climbing, she competed as a figure skater.[6] At age 11 she climbed her first 5.13b (8a). She attended the Potomac School, a K-12 near Washington, D.C. In March 2011, just before graduating from high school, she redpointed Southern Smoke (5.14c) and Lucifer (5.14c) in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky.

After leaving high school, DiGiulian took a gap year to travel and rock climb, concentrating on international competition and outdoor climbing. She won the Silver Medal in the Female Bouldering World Championships in Arco, Italy. She returned to the Red River Gorge in October 2011 where she redpointed Pure Imagination (5.14c).[7] DiGiulian is a three-time National Champion in Female Open and was the undefeated Female Open panAmerican Champion from 2010 - 2018. From 2004 until the end of her Junior career, 2010, she was the undefeated junior Panamerican Champion. In 2011 she redpointed 5.14c (8c+), onsighted two 5.14a (8b+) and four 5.13d (8b) routes. In 2012 DiGiulian earned three gold medals at the Panamerican Championships for Female Sport Climbing, Bouldering, and Overall Champion. In 2015, she became the first woman to free climb Magic Mushroom (7c+), one of the most difficult routes on the north face of the Eiger.[4] She has climbed over 30 First Female Ascents as well as 8 significant First Ascents, including a Big Wall in Brazil in 2016 and The Misty Wall in Yosemite in 2017. In 2017 she did the first female free ascent of Mora Mora, climbing it with Edu Marin in what was also the second free ascent of Mora Mora.[5][6]

In 2014, DiGiulian's father, reportedly in healthy conditions, had a stroke and was rushed to the hospital. According to interviews with DiGiulian, he was perfectly healthy up until that point. He was put in a medically-induced coma and eventually passed away.

DiGiulian graduated from Columbia University[8] in 2016.[9] She studied non-fiction creative writing and business, was a member of Kappa Alpha Theta[10] and an athlete representative on the board of the International Federation of Sport Climbing.[11] DiGiulian serves as a Board Member of the Women's Sports Foundation and as an Athlete Ambassador for Right to Play, Up2Us Sports, Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and was the recipient of multiple prestigious awards, including GLAMOUR Magazine's Top College Women of the Year, 2016, the Cutting Edge Athlete Award for 2014 performance, presented by the American Alpine Club, The Golden Piton Award, and the Arco Rock Legend Award for Outstanding Achievements in the Outdoors.[12]

As of January 2017, DiGiulian appears to be living in Boulder, Colorado.[13] In March 2017 a rock climber emoji was approved[14] and the sample image published by Emojipedia was based on DiGiulian's likeness.[15]

DiGiulian produced a film, The Trilogy, about how she became the first female and second person to climb three Canadian Rocky Mountain big walls in a single season. The Trilogy was the first film she produced. It premiered in Banff. DiGiulian – who is based in Boulder, Colorado – has become a vocal spokesperson on climate change and has lobbied in Washington, DC for protections.[16]

In 2018, DiGiulian used her Instagram account to call out sexism and bias against her in her sport, particularly by Joe Kinder.[17] DiGiulian said repeated offensive comments and harassment to her and towards fellow sportsmen are what led her to speak out.[18]

References[edit]

  1. ^ "About @ Sasha DiGiulian". Retrieved March 27, 2013.
  2. ^ Tom Jackman (August 8, 2011). "Alexandria's Sasha DiGiulian is world champ rock climber". The Washington Post. Washington, D.C. ISSN 0190-8286. OCLC 1330888409.
  3. ^ https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/alexander-megos-climbs-era-vella-9a-in-the-second-attempt/https://www.climbing.com/videos/ethan-pringle-on-era-vella-5-14d-margalef-spain/https://www.climbing.com/videos/era-vella-5-14d-and-sasha-digiulian-trailer/
  4. ^ a b "adidas Outdoor Athletes Sasha DiGiulian And Carlo Traversi Free Climb Magic Mushroom... - LOS ANGELES, Aug. 29, 2015 /PRNewswire/". Prnewswire.com. Retrieved August 30, 2015.
  5. ^ a b "DiGiulian and Marin Send Big Wall Madagascar 5.14 - Gripped Magazine". Gripped.com. 2017. Retrieved August 10, 2017.
  6. ^ a b c "Sasha DiGiulian: Free ascent of Mora Mora ++video". Redbull.com. Retrieved August 10, 2017.
  7. ^ "Two 5.14+ Onsights for Ondra". dpmclimbing.com. November 1, 2012. Archived from the original on November 4, 2012. Retrieved May 24, 2013.
  8. ^ Erin Larson (December 3, 2013). "Sasha DiGiulian: Rock Climber Extraordinaire".
  9. ^ Boland, Whitney. "Sasha DiGiulian Always Climbs Toward Her Goals". Redbull.
  10. ^ "Notable Thetas - Heritage - Kappa Alpha Theta". Heritage.kappaalphatheta.org. January 7, 2015. Retrieved August 30, 2015.
  11. ^ "Athletes Commission". ifsc-climbing.org. February 25, 2013. Retrieved May 24, 2013.
  12. ^ "All About Sasha DiGiulian". sashadigiulian.com. Retrieved February 3, 2019.
  13. ^ "VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian Sends Keeper of the Flame (5.13a), Yosemite Valley". www.rockandice.com. January 6, 2017. Retrieved August 22, 2017.
  14. ^ "Final 2017 Emoji List". Emojipedia. March 27, 2017. Retrieved August 22, 2017.
  15. ^ Scheinbaum, Chase. "Sasha DiGiulian Designed the World's First Rock Climbing Emoji". The Inertia. Retrieved August 22, 2017.
  16. ^ "Women's Sport: Professional climber Sasha DiGiulian on her new film, climate change and the Olympics". GiveMeSport. February 5, 2020. Retrieved March 15, 2020.
  17. ^ Siber, Kate (May 15, 2018). "What We Can Learn from Climbing's Bullying Saga". Outside Online. Retrieved January 25, 2021.
  18. ^ "Sasha DiGiulian". www.redbull.com. Retrieved January 25, 2021.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)

External links[edit]