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Bibbulmun Track
Map of the Bibbulmun Track
Length	Approx. 1,000 kilometres (620 mi)
Location	South-western Western Australia
Trailheads	Kalamunda (north) Albany (south)
Use	Hiking only
Highest point	Mount Cooke, 582 m (1,909 ft)
Lowest point	Various points along the south coast, 0 m (0 ft)
Difficulty	Easy to moderate
Season	Year-round (but not advised December to February)
Waymark	Waugal marker (black serpent on yellow triangle)
Hazards	Venomous snakes Extreme heat, bushfire, limited water (summer months)
Website	Bibbulmun Track Foundation

The Bibbulmun Track is a long-distance hiking trail in south-western Western Australia, extending from Kalamunda in the hills east of Perth to Albany on the south coast. It runs for approximately 1,000 kilometres (620 miles), traversing a variety of landscapes as it winds its way through WA's biodiverse South West. Along the way it passes through a number of picturesque and historic towns, but between these the Track avoids civilisation as it leads walkers through the Australian bush.

The track is managed by the WA Parks and Wildlife Service. Community services such as advocacy and marketing, advice and workshops for walkers, and management of the volunteer maintenance program are provided by the not-for-profit Bibbulmun Track Foundation.

The Bibbulmun Track was originally opened in 1979, with major realignments and extensions in 1987-88 and 1994-98. Since then it has been recognised for both its natural beauty and its facilities with a number of awards and accolades, including WA's Best Tourism Attraction in 2004 and 2006, and being named one of the world's top 20 epic hikes by National Geographic in 2014.

The Bibbulmun Track is for hikers only. Bicycles, vehicles such as motorcycles and quad bikes, horses and other domestic animals are generally not permitted. However, the Munda Biddi Trail offers off-road cyclists a similar route from Mundaring to Albany, passing through many of the same towns.

Attractions

Towns

For the most part, the Track avoids civilisation; indeed, in some of the more remote parts, walkers may find themselves travelling for over a week without seeing anybody else. However, a number of towns are spaced regularly along the entire length of the Track, as well as a few smaller villages, all offering facilities for walkers of one kind or another. From north to south, the Track passes through:

• The suburban centre of Kalamunda in the Perth Hills, on the edge of the Darling Scarp (northern terminus)
• The Mundaring Weir village, a recreational spot on Perth's eastern fringe, where the Track crosses the weir wall at the head of Lake C.Y. O'Connor
• The former timber town of Dwellingup, now a centre for tourism
• The large town of Collie, centre of the coalmining and agricultural region east of Bunbury
• Balingup, a small town with an eclectic mix of shops and eateries, home to the annual Balingup Medieval Carnivale
• The holiday village at Donnelly River, site of a now closed timber mill
• Pemberton, another former mill town, in the heart of the karri forests of the South West
• The small town of Northcliffe, gateway to natural attractions such as the coastal holiday village of Windy Harbour and the Warren, Shannon and d'Entrecasteaux national parks
• On the south coast, the town of Walpole, nestled in amongst karri and tingle forests
• The holiday village of Peaceful Bay
• The coastal town of Denmark, on the shores of Wilson Inlet
• The historic port city of Albany, on King George Sound, the oldest European settlement in Western Australia (southern terminus)

History

The idea of a long-distance walking trail in WA was first floated by Geoff Schafer, an experienced hiker from Victoria and founding member of the Perth Bushwalking Club. His experience walking the Australian Alps Walking Track and dismay at the lack of a comparable trail in WA led him to approach the state government with the idea of establishing one in WA's South West. The idea was met with enthusiasm; eventually the name Bibbulmun Track was chosen in recognition of the Indigenous Bibbulmun people of the region, and in 1979 the first alignment of the new track was opened from Kalamunda to Northcliffe.

In 1987-88, the track was overhauled significantly, including relocation of the track between Kalamunda and Dwellingup to avoid bauxite mining areas, and an extension of the Track further south to Walpole. It was also at this time that the distinctive waugal trail markers were adopted.

However, the track at this time was a far cry from what it is today. It was located mostly on gravel roads rather than dedicated walking trails, signage was poor, there were no shelters, water supplies were unreliable and toilet facilities were few. In 1989, a hiker named Jesse Brampton walked the entire length of the track and, after having walked the Appalachian Trail in the two years prior, was shocked at the relatively poor standard of the Bibbulmun Track. Following in the footsteps of Geoff Schafer years before, he approached the state government with a detailed vision of what the track could be, and in 1993, the Building a Better Bibbulmun Track project was established, with Brampton on board as head of the project.

Over the next five years, more than 80% of the track was realigned to its final location, mostly onto newly constructed walking trails. Over 50 new campsites were built, all with shelters, toilets, water tanks and tent sites. Much of the construction work was completed by crews of prisoners from Wooroloo, Karnet and Pardelup prison farms, as well as volunteer community groups from across the region.

Around this time, in 1997, the Friends of the Bibbulmun Track was established as a not-for-profit organisation to support the government in the management, maintenance and marketing of the track. Known today as the Bibbulmun Track Foundation, it continues this work to this day, with hundreds of volunteers helping the Foundation's work of maintaining the track, advocating and advising to the broader community, organising activities and community events, raising funds for improvements and repairs, as well as staffing the office.

Recent developments

Over the years since, there have been a few relatively minor changes to the alignment of the track for various reasons.

In 2012, the track near Albany was realigned due to the construction of a new wind farm. Hidden Valley campsite on the old alignment was replaced by two new campsites, Muttonbird and Sandpatch, spaced closer together.

In recognition of the increased use of the track by recreational groups, new group campsites have been built in a few places to accommodate larger groups of up to 30. As of May 2018, these include a separate group campsite at Mount Cooke and two sites on a new spur trail from Yabberup campsite to Wellington Dam. This spur trail has proved popular since being opened, and its extension into a circuit trail linking back to Collie is being considered.

2015 bushfires

Bushfire is a recurring element of summers in Australia, and over the years bushfire has affected various sections of the Track. Bushfires have repeatedly caused the damage or destruction of track facilities, but the fires of the summer of 2014-15 were particularly devastating for the track and its users.

In February 2015, lightning started a fire in the Shannon National Park and burned through around 91,000 hectares (225,000 acres) of land, coming within a kilometre of the Northcliffe townsite. Simultaneously, a fire in Lower Hotham burnt through 52,000 hectares (128,000 acres) of land in the Murray River and Hotham River valleys, and a fire in the Helena National Park burnt through 1,500 hectares (3,700 acres) of land near Mount Dale.

The extent of damage to the Bibbulmun Track from these fires was significant. Four campsites were destroyed, namely Brookton, Possum Springs, Gardner and Dog Pool. Most devastating of all, the historic Long Gully Bridge, a wooden railway bridge built in 1949 to span the Murray River, was destroyed in the fire. The loss of this river crossing as well as the bridge crossing the Shannon River at Dog Pool cut the Track in two places, making an end-to-end walk of the length of Track impossible for a time. It was two and a half years before the Long Gully Bridge was eventually replaced with a new suspension bridge, located several kilometres downstream, named Bilya Djena Bidi by the traditional Indigenous owners of the land.

Prospective walkers should always consult the section-by-section guide on the Bibbulmun Track Foundation website for the latest information on closures and diversions.

Walking the track

The Bibbulmun Track was designed and built as a hiking trail only. While certain sections may be shared with other multi-use paths, the vast majority of the track is off limits to vehicles, bicycles, motorcycles, quad bikes and so on, as well as horses, dogs and other domestic animals. This is to protect against the spread of dieback, to minimise damage and erosion, as well as to provide a safer and more pleasant experience for walkers.

Moreover, the presence of 1080 poison baits, placed as a means of controlling feral animals such as foxes, wild dogs, rabbits and feral pigs, poses a threat to the safety of dogs taken onto the Track. These 1080 baits can kill dogs if eaten.

Access

The easiest and most convenient way of accessing the Bibbulmun Track is generally from one of the towns or popular tourist areas (such as Mundaring Weir) it passes through. If travelling by public transport, Kalamunda can be reached easily enough via Transperth bus from the Perth city centre; and with the exception of Dwellingup, all of the towns can be accessed by Transwa coach from Perth.

Outside of the towns, access points can be few and far between, particularly in the more remote areas. One reason for this is because large sections of the track, particularly in the northern half, pass through so-called Disease Risk Areas, where vehicle access is illegal without a permit. These areas have been established to help minimise the spread of dieback, a disease caused by a soil-borne fungus that affects many of the region's native plant species.

Another reason is by design: the Bibbulmun Track avoids roads and built-up areas to provide a more natural experience for users. Locating the track and its facilities (such as campsites) away from easy access also serves to minimise exposure to potential abuse or damage caused by littering, vandalism or vehicles, and provides a safer environment for walkers.

Vehicle access points are marked on the official Bibbulmun Track maps.

Navigation

A yellow waugal marker points the way ahead.

The Track is marked with yellow reflective triangular markers, called waugals. The waugal, or rainbow serpent, is taken from the Dreamtime of the Aboriginal people of the South West, the Noongar people. These markers are generally placed a minimum of every 500 metres.

Maps and guidebooks

While it is theoretically possible to navigate using the waugal markers alone, walkers are urged to carry maps and a compass and know how to use them. The Parks and Wildlife Service publishes a series of eight 1:50,000 maps of the Bibbulmun Track, indicating the route of the track itself as well as vehicle access points, campsites and other landmarks, plus elevation profiles. The maps are readily available at camping stores throughout Perth and the South West, map shops, bookshops, or from the Bibbulmun Track Foundation.

The Foundation also publishes a series of guidebooks, providing detailed turn-by-turn notes to assist with navigation, as well as notes on landmarks and flora and fauna that may be encountered along the way. For many years, these were published in two volumes (northern and southern), copies of which may still be found, but in 2014 the series was updated and republished in nine smaller, lighter volumes: one corresponding to each of the eight maps, plus a handbook offering advice and planning tips.

Accommodation

All of the track towns offer a range of accommodation options, varying from motels to pub-style accommodation, to bed-and-breakfast and guest house-type establishments, to caravan parks and holiday villages. The Bibbulmun Track Foundation publishes contact information for many of these lodgings on its website,, as well as a printed guide. Many of these businesses offer discounts to Bibbulmun Track Foundation members as well.

Between the towns, purpose-built campsites are provided for the exclusive use of walkers. The campsites are spaced roughly a day's walk apart (generally 15 to 25 kilometres, or 10 to 15 miles), although near the Kalamunda and Albany ends they are closer together.

Each campsite features a three-sided sleeping shelter, picnic tables, a rainwater tank and a pit toilet. Most campsites in the northern half also have a fire ring, but fire bans mean these may not be used during the summer months. Facilities are minimal: there is no power, no telephone, no cooking facilities and no beds (just bare wooden sleeping platforms); walkers need to carry their own bedding (generally a sleeping bag and mat) and fuel stove. There is also no rubbish bin; walkers need to take any rubbish with them when they leave.

Tent sites are also available at the campsites for walkers who choose not to use the shelter (or find there is no room). There is no booking system: all campsites are free to use on a first-come-first-served basis. Walkers are therefore advised to carry a tent as a backup option. Free-camping on the track between campsites is not permitted in water catchment areas — i.e. most of the track between Kalamunda and Collie, and south of the Blackwood River.

Safety

Fauna and insects

Fortunately, the South West of WA is free of animals that prey on humans; however, a number of species inhabit the area that pose a threat to walkers' health, or even lives.

The most dangerous of these are snakes. Venomous snakes can be found all along the Track, and while snakebite is rare, it can be fatal if urgent medical help is not sought. Snakes are generally fearful of humans and will retreat as humans approach, but may attack if threatened or stepped on. All snakebites should be treated as medical emergencies; pressure immobilisation should be applied, followed by medical evacuation.

Mosquitoes can be particularly active during the warmer months, and their bite carries the risk of transmitting Ross River virus.

Ticks in Australia are generally not dangerous, but their presence can be unpleasant, especially if their mouthparts become lodged in the skin and become septic.

March flies may be active in the summer months; while not dangerous, their bite is painful.

Temperature extremes

WA's South West enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The most pleasant times of year for walking are spring and autumn. Winter nights can be cold, but rarely drop below freezing; and the winter rain often results in seasonal flooding of sections of the Track.

Although the Track is open all year round, walking during the summer months (December to February) is discouraged, particularly in the northern parts. Daily temperatures in the mid to high 30s are common, so walkers will need to carry extra water between the campsites; many watercourses are ephemeral and cannot be relied on as sources of drinking water. As well as this, the risk of bushfire is greatly increased; a total fire ban is in effect each summer, requiring walkers to carry a fuel stove for their cooking needs.

Water crossings

The Track crosses the mouths of four inlets along the south coast. One of these, Irwin Inlet near Peaceful Bay, has canoes available. The other three inlets are closed off from the ocean by a sandbar, which can often be crossed on foot; however, occasionally, the sandbar is breached, and walkers will need to judge whether it is safe to cross the channel by foot, or whether alternative means must be sought (more information on which is available in the guidebooks). Up-to-date information on the sandbar crossings is available from the local Parks and Wildlife office.

Mobile phone reception, PLBs

While mobile phone service has improved significantly over the years, the sparse population of many of the areas the track passes through means walkers should not rely on the availability of phone reception, even in an emergency. Reception is generally available in the towns, however.

In case of emergency, walkers are strongly encouraged to carry a personal locator beacon, which can be manually activated in an emergency. The Foundation has a small number of these available for hire.

Environmental impact

Walkers are encouraged to minimise their impact on the track environment and adopt the Leave No Trace principles, as well as the Campsite Code of Conduct:

• Groups of eight or more must use tents.
• Cook with a fuel stove.
• If you must have a fire, keep it small.
• Tread softly — you are walking through someone else's home!
• Keep to the track.
• Pack it in, pack it out — there are no bins out there!

End-to-end walking

Many users of the Bibbulmun Track choose to walk for a day, or hike over several days, but many choose to walk the entire length of the track from one end to the other. The Bibbulmun Track Foundation recognises such walkers, whether they walk end to end in one go (an end-to-end — often called thru-hiking in North America) or spread out over multiple legs (called a sectional end-to-end). Walkers who successfully complete an end-to-end walk can register their hike with the Foundation and receive a certificate. An end-to-end walk typically takes six to eight weeks, but some sectional end-to-enders may take over 10 years to complete theirs.

An end-to-end walk requires much careful planning; the Foundation provides a range of services, workshops and advice to prospective end-to-enders.

Notable end-to-ends

The fastest known time is currently held by Shane Johnstone, who ran the length of the track in 11 days, 7 hours and 8 minutes, raising $15,000 for charity.

Distance chart

Distances correct as of 8 May 2018.

Map(s)	From	To	Distance	Cumulative distance
				North to south	South to north
1-2	Kalamunda	Dwellingup	211.1 km (131.2 mi)	211.1 km (131.2 mi)	1,005.0 km (624.5 mi)
2-3	Dwellingup	Collie	130.5 km (81.1 mi)	341.6 km (212.3 mi)	793.9 km (493.3 mi)
3-4	Collie	Balingup	85.7 km (53.2 mi)	427.3 km (265.5 mi)	663.4 km (412.2 mi)
4	Balingup	Donnelly River Village	58.1 km (36.1 mi)	485.4 km (301.6 mi)	577.7 km (359.0 mi)
5	Donnelly River Village	Pemberton	108.6 km (67.5 mi)	594.0 km (369.1 mi)	519.6 km (322.9 mi)
5	Pemberton	Northcliffe	59.2 km (36.8 mi)	653.2 km (405.9 mi)	411.0 km (255.4 mi)
6-7	Northcliffe	Walpole	141.5 km (87.9 mi)	794.7 km (493.8 mi)	351.8 km (218.6 mi)
7	Walpole	Peaceful Bay	62.2 km (38.6 mi)	856.9 km (532.4 mi)	210.3 km (130.7 mi)
7-8	Peaceful Bay	Denmark	63.4 km (39.4 mi)	920.3 km (571.8 mi)	148.1 km (92.0 mi)
8	Denmark	Albany	84.7 km (52.6 mi)	1,005.0 km (624.5 mi)	84.7 km (52.6 mi)

See also

• Cape to Cape Track
• Munda Biddi Trail

Further reading

• Guidebooks, maps
• Jim Baker
• Guidebooks
• Walkers' blogs

External links

• Bibbulmun Track Foundation
• Parks and Wildlife Service, Western Australian Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions