New Haven-style pizza

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White clam pie from Pepe's in New Haven, Connecticut
A pizza from Sally's Apizza
Mozzarella pie from Pepe's in New Haven, Connecticut

New Haven-style pizza, locally known as apizza, is a style of Neapolitan pizza common in and around New Haven, Connecticut. It originated at the Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana[1] and is now served in many other pizza restaurants in the area, most notably[according to whom?], Sally's Apizza, Bar Bru Room, Grand Apizza, and Modern Apizza. This geographically limited pizza style has gained considerable culinary and historical importance.[2][3]

Contents

Characteristics [edit]

American pizzerias generally consider a plain pizza to be crust, tomato sauce, and mozzarella.[according to whom?] In a New Haven-style pizzeria a "plain" pizza is crust, oregano, and tomato sauce with a little bit of grated pecorino romano cheese sprinkled on. Mozzarella (called "mootz" in the New Haven-Italian dialect[citation needed]) is considered to be a topping; a customer who wants it must ask for it. When Frank Pepe began making his "tomato pies" on Wooster Street in the early 1920s, the only varieties were "plain" and "marinara" (tomato sauce, grated cheese, and anchovies).[citation needed]

Later on, Pepe invented the "white clam pie" - although not due to allergies to tomatoes and mozzarella, a common misconception[by whom?]. Pepe's restaurant used to serve littleneck clams on the half shell at the bar which he eventually decided to put on the pizza.[4] The white clam pie is crust, olive oil, oregano, grated cheese, chopped garlic, and fresh littleneck clams. Since then, the white clam pie has become the signature pizza among the New Haven pizzerias, who try to discourage any customers from ordering it with mozzarella.[citation needed]

What sets New Haven-style pizza apart from other styles is its unusually thin crust. Brick or occasionally high temperature gas oven cooking bakes the crust to a very crispy shell (often burnt black in spots, desirably known as "the char"[by whom?]) but leaves the inside soft and chewy.[citation needed]

Cooking and serving methods [edit]

New Haven-style pizza is traditionally baked in a coal-fired oven[5] and is sold whole rather than by the slice. Many New Haven-style pizzerias also serve East Haven-based Foxon Park soft drinks.

Name [edit]

Use of the term "apizza" (pron.: /əˈbts/ ə-BEETS) is mostly confined to the Italian-American enclaves of southern Connecticut, and derives from Neapolitan dialect.[citation needed] The dish is more widely known throughout the region as simply "New Haven-style pizza", as opposed to "New York-style pizza" which remains the dominant style of pizza-making throughout the rest of the Northeast.[citation needed]

Availability [edit]

Although most commonly available in the New Haven area, New Haven-style pizza has begun to spread to other parts of Connecticut. It has been available in the Italian-American areas of Bridgeport and other shoreline communities for many years. It is beginning to be served in areas typically not known for large Italian-American populations, including towns in northern and central Connecticut as well as farther away in Stayton, Oregon,[6] Hood River, Oregon,[7] Washington, DC,[8] Chicago, Illinois,[9] San Diego, California,[10] West Chester, Pennsylvania,[11] Key West, Florida,[12] and Farmington Hills, Michigan.[13]

Notable establishments [edit]

See also [edit]

References [edit]

  1. ^ American Eats: Pizza, The History Channel, 29 June 2006
  2. ^ "American Pie". GQ Magazine. Conde Nast. June 2009. Retrieved 2009-06-21.  Sally's is ranked six, while Pepe's is ranked twelve, out of 25 restaurants nationally.
  3. ^ Levine, Ed; Jeffrey Steingarten (2005). Pizza: A Slice of Heaven. New York, NY: Universe Publishing. p. 24. ISBN 0-7893-1205-0. "In my experience, the perfect Neopolitan-American pizzas are made in New York City and in New Haven, Connecticut, at the towering Frank Pepe's Pizzeria and Sally's Apizza." 
  4. ^ Penny Pollack & Jeff Ruby (2005). Everybody Loves Pizza. Clerisy Press
  5. ^ a b c d e Levine, Ed (2011). Serious Eats: A Comprehensive Guide to Making & Eating Delicious Food Wherever You Are. Random House Digital, Inc. pp. 99–100. ISBN 030772087X. Retrieved November 2012. 
  6. ^ "Apizza - A restaurant review." Accessed October 25, 2007.
  7. ^ Doublemountainbrewery. Accessed January 5, 2012.
  8. ^ "Menu - Apizza." Accessed August 7, 2008.
  9. ^ "Piece Brewery & Pizzeria | Dine In or Carry Out :: Chicago" Accessed December 8, 2008
  10. ^ "URBN Coal Fired Pizza - North Park, San Diego"
  11. ^ "Pizzeria West Chester, PA ( Pennsylvania ) - New Haven Pizza". Newhavenpizzawc.com. 2012-07-02. Retrieved 2012-08-04. 
  12. ^ "Bobalu's Southern Cafe menu - Key West, FL 33040 - (305) 296-1664". Allmenus.com. Retrieved 2012-08-04. 
  13. ^ "Farmington Hills – Authentic, Neapolitan via New Haven-Style Pizza – Dine in, Carry Out, Delivery, Catering, Lunch Buffet". Tomatoes Apizza. Retrieved 2012-08-04. 

Further reading [edit]

External links [edit]