Jerzy Kukuczka on Mount Everest, 1980
24 March 1948|
|Died||24 October 1989
Jerzy Kukuczka (24 March 1948 – 24 October 1989), born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. On 18 September 1987, he became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world. He is the first man who made the first winter ascents to the 3 eight-thousanders: Dhaulagiri with Andrzej Czok in 1985, Kangchenjunga with Krzysztof Wielicki in 1986 and Annapurna I with Artur Hajzer in 1987. He is the only climber to have ascended four of the eight-thousanders during winter. Along with Tadeusz Piotrowski came on K2 new path (called the "Polish Line"), which no one has ever repeated.
Kukuczka is widely considered among the climbing community to be one of the best high-altitude climbers in history. He ascended all fourteen eight-thousanders in just under eight years, a shorter time than any climber before (Reinhold Messner included, whom it took 16 years) or since. In the process, Kukuczka established ten new routes and climbed four summits in winter (compared to 6 new routes of Messner's, none of them during winter). He was one of an elite group of Polish Himalayan mountaineers who specialized in winter ascents (called Ice Warriors).
|1979||Nepal||Lhotse||West Face||Normal Route|
|1980||Nepal||Mount Everest||South Pillar||New Route|
|1981||Nepal||Makalu||Variation to Makalu La/North-West Ridge||New Route, Alpine Style, Solo.|
|1982||Pakistan||Broad Peak||West Spur||Normal Route, Alpine Style.|
|1983||Pakistan||Gasherbrum II||South-East Spur||New Route, Alpine Style.|
|1983||Pakistan||Gasherbrum I||South-West Face||New Route, Alpine Style.|
|1984||Pakistan||Broad Peak||Traverse of North, Middle, Rocky and Main Summits||New Route, Alpine Style.|
|1985||Nepal||Dhaulagiri||North-East Spur||Normal Route, First Winter Ascent.|
|1985||Nepal||Cho Oyu||South-East Pillar||New Route, First Winter Ascent, Second Summit Team.|
|1985||Pakistan||Nanga Parbat||South-East Pillar||New Route.|
|1986||Nepal||Kanchenjunga||South-West Face||Normal Route, First Winter Ascent.|
|1986||Pakistan||K2||South Face||New Route.|
|1986||Nepal||Manaslu||North-East Face||New Route, Alpine Style.|
|1987||Nepal||Annapurna I||North Face||Normal Route, First Winter Ascent.|
|1987||China||Shisha Pangma||West Ridge||New Route, Alpine Style, Ski Descent.|
|1988||Nepal||Annapurna East||South Face||New Route, Alpine Style.|
He climbed all summits, except for Mount Everest, without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Kukuczka died attempting to climb the unclimbed South Face of Lhotse in Nepal on 24 October 1989. He was leading a pitch at an altitude of about 8,200 meters on a 6 mm secondhand rope he had picked up in a market in Kathmandu (according to Ryszard Pawłowski, Kukuczka's climbing partner on the tragic day, the main single rope used by the team was too jammed to be used and the climbers decided to use transport rope instead), the cord either was cut or snapped from a fall, plunging Kukuczka to his death.
Wąsikowski, Piotr (1996). Dwa razy Everest. PiT.
|Wikimedia Commons has media related to Jerzy Kukuczka.|
- Everest History: Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka
- Poland.gov.pl: The Crown of the Himalayas
- The legend: 5 stars out of 5
- Jerzy Kukuczka, il trailer del nuovo film (Italian)
- Doubrawa-Cochlin, Ingeborga. "A Tribute to Jerzy Kukuczka (1948- 1989)". The Alpine Journal: 32–34. ISSN 0065-6569.
- Xexplorers web:The meaning of winter in 8000+ climbing