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Nainital

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File:LAKE3.jpg
Nainital: The emerald green lake, the towering hills, the brisk autumn wind and the scrunching chinar leaves underfoot, and the winter snow on the deodar--many such memories of the town are imprinted on visitors and residents alike.

Nainital (29° 24' N, 79° 28' E) is a town in the Indian state of Uttaranchal and headquarters of Nainital District in the Kumaon foothills of the outer Himalaya. Situated at an altitude of 1938 m (6,350 ft) above sea-level, Nainital is set in a valley containing a pear-shaped lake, approximately 2 miles in circumference, and surrounded by mountains, of which the highest are Naina (also Cheena) (2615 m, or 8,568 ft) on the north, Deopatha (2438 m, or 7,987 ft) on the west, and Ayarpatha (2278 m, or 7,461 ft) on the south. The surrounding scenery "is strikingly beautiful; and from the tops of the higher peaks, magnificent views can be obtained of the vast plain to the south, or of the mass of tangled ridges lying north, bounded by the great snowy range which forms the central axis of the Himalayas." (Imperial Gazeteer of India, volume 18, Oxford University Press, Oxford and London, 1908.)

Nainital is favoured with temperate summers (maximum temperature 27°C, or 80°F; minimum temperature 10°C, or 50°F) during which its population more than doubles with an annual influx of tourists predominantly from the plains of Northern India. In the winter, Nainital receives snowfall between December and February with the temperatures varying between a maximum of 15°C (59°F) and a minimum of -3°C (26°F).

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Nainital in Mythology

Nainital figures in several ancient myths of India. One of the earliest, from the Manas Khand of the Skand Puran, refers to Nainital Lake as Tri-Rishi-Sarovar, alluding to the story of the three sages (or rishis), Atri, Pulastya and Pulaha, who, finding no water in Naintal, dug a large hole at the location of the present day lake (sarovar = lake) and inundated it with water siphoned from the holy lake Manasarovar (literally, Lake of the Mind) near Mount Kailas in Tibet. According to lore, a dip in Naini Lake, "the lesser Mansoravar", earns merit equal to a dip in the great lake.

Another myth refers to Naini Lake as one of the 64 Shakti Peeths, where parts of the charred body of Sati (Parvati) fell upon surface of the earth while being carried through the heavens by Lord Shiva. According to legend, the spot where Sati's eyes (or Nain) fell, came to be called Nain-tal or [lake of the eye.] The goddess Shakti is worshipped at the Naina Devi Temple located at the northern end of the present day lake.

British Period

Early Construction

File:Penny illustrated nainital landslip1880.png
The Naini Tal landslip on the cover of the Penny Illustrated Paper (London), October 2, 1880

The Kumaon Hills came under British rule after the Anglo-Nepal War (1814-16), but the hill station town of Naini Tal (spelling of the name in British times) was only founded in 1841, with the construction of the first European house by P. Barron of Shahjahanpur. Moved by the beauty of the sparkling lake he wrote: "It is by far the best site I have witnessed in the course of a 1,500 miles trek in the Himalayas." In the next five years, new houses were built rapidly, "for in 1846, when Captain Madden of the Bengal Artillery visited Naini Tal, he recorded that houses were rapidly springing up in most parts of the settlement: some towards the crest of the limitary ranges were nearly 7,500 feet above sea level: the rugged and woody Ayarpatta was being gradually planted and that the favourite sites were on the undulating tract of forest land which stretched back from the head of the lake to the base of China and Deopatta (Camel's Hump). The Church, St. John's in the Wilderness, had been built, and Captain Madden remarked that a very pretty gothic structure had been erected on one of the most picturesque sites in the settlement." (quoted from Murphy, C.W., A Guide to Naini Tal and Kumaun, 1906.) Soon, the town became a health resort favoured both by British soldiers and by colonial officials and their families trying to escape the heat of the plains. Later, the town also became the summer residence of the Governor of the United Provinces (later Uttar Pradesh). Government House (now the High Court of Uttaranchal) was built in 1899 by the F.W. Stevens who had also built many Gothic style buildings in Bombay.

The Landslip of 1880

In September 1880 a landslide (called the Landslip of 1880) occurred at the north end of the town, burying 151 people. The first known landslide had occurred in 1866, and in 1879 there was a larger one at the same spot, Alma Hill (now called Snow View), but "the great slip occurred in the following year, on Saturday 18th September 1880." (From Murphy, C.W., A Guide to Naini Tal and Kumaun, 1906.) "Two days preceding the slip there was heavy rain, and it is recorded that from 20 to 25 inches fell during the 40 hours ending on Saturday morning, and the downpour still lasted and continued for hours after the slip. This heavy fall naturally brought down streams of water from the hill side, some endangering the Victoria Hotel, ... The hotel was not the only building threatened ... Bell's shop, the Volunteer Orderly Room and the Hindu (Naina Devi) temple were scenes of labour with a view to diverting streams. At a quarter to two the landslip occurred burying those in and around the buildings mentioned above." The total number of dead and missing were 108 Indian and 43 British nationals. The Assembly Rooms and the Naina Devi Temple were both destroyed in the disaster. A recreation area known as 'The Flats' was later built on the site and a new temple was also erected. In addition, the local government took steps to prevent further disasters--Nallas (storm water drains) were constructed and building byelaws were made stricter.

The Schools

In the latter half of the 19th century a number of "European" schools for boys and girls were founded in Nainital. During the Victorian and Edwardian eras, students in these schools largely consisted of children of British colonial officials or soldiers. By 1906, there were over half a dozen such schools (according to A Guide to Naini Tal and Kumaun, 1906): "The boys' schools in Naini Tal are, the Diocesan Boys' School (later renamed Sherwood College) which is under the guidance of the Church of England, Philander Smith's College, maintained by the American Mission and St. Joseph's College a Roman Catholic institution. The Diocesan School is situated on Ayarpatta well to the West End. The school building is a new one; its construction was taken in hand about ten years ago, when (the) Sherwood (Estate) which accommodated the school for 23 years, was acquired by the Government for Government House. Philander Smith's College is an old institution (Oak Openings) under a new name. St. Joseph's College, on Ayarpatta near Government House, has extensive grounds and the buildings are large ... This school is one of the largest in the Province.... This year the boarders alone number about 200."

"The Girls' Schools are the Wellesley School, St. Mary's Convent, All Saints Diocesan High School and Petersfield College for Girls. Wellesley is on Ayarpatta, not far distant from the District Court buildings--it is an American Institution. St. Mary's Convent is one of the oldest institutions in Naini Tal. The Convent has done well ... at the examinations of the Trinity College of Music, London, ... winning the National prize in 1904, and the Indian Exhibition prize last year. All Saint's High School is situated near the Convent, but higher up the hill: this is an old established school. The present buildings are spacious, and the grounds charming. Petersfield Girls' College is in the heart of the station, near St. John's Church." (From, A Guide to Naini Tal to Naini Tal and Kumaun, 1906.)

With passage of time, the schools began to admit more Indian students and, by the 1930s, children of well-to-do Indians had become a feature of the "hill station boarding schools." This trend continued until independence, by when the student bodies had become predominantly Indian.

Transition

By the 1880s, a mere 40 years after its founding, Naintal had become something of an exclusive English preserve, with the Indian presence in the town largely confined to a behind-the-scenes labour and service industry. This state of affairs lasted for much of the Victorian years. The first change came, when early in the 20th century, the state government of the United Provinces began to relocate to Naintal (from state capital Lucknow) every summer. This brought a large bureaucracy into the town, part of which was Indian; consequently, the Indian presence in Nainital (both bureaucratic and commercial) began to increase. The next change came in the 1930s, when the colonial government in India began to permit British civil servants to take their annual vacations in England, and, consequently, the hill stations became a little less popular with the British. From then on until 1947, the British presence in Nainital (measured, for example, by home ownership) began to decline and be replaced by that of a fledgling Indian elite.

At the end of its first century, Nainital had remained largely a resort town. It would be left to the state (Uttar Pradesh) and central governments of independent India to give other dimensions to Nainital, in the form, for example, of higher education and scientific research.

Nainital Today

Educational and Research Institutions

The Schools

For well over a century, Nainital has been noted for its many schools. Four schools from the British period, whose early years were sketched above, continue to exist today:

In addition, a number of new schools have been established since independence:

  • Birla Vidyamandir [5], established 1947. The school was envisioned by Govind Ballabh Pant, independence leader and former Home Minister of India, who was keen to have a public school in which Indian heritage was emphasized in the manner of the ancient Gurukuls. As a result of a timely donation from the industrialist Ghanshyam Das Birla, the then deserted estate of Philander Smith, which had previously housed the Philander Smith College, and during the war years had housed the Hallett War School, became the seat of the new Birla Vidya Mandir.
  • Sanwal School. Originally established in the 1940s as a nursery/kindergarten school in Mallital.
  • Sainik School, established 1966. The school is a residential school. It was established on the Ghorakhal Estate of the Nawab of Rampur near Bhowali in Nainital District.
  • St. Amtuls Public School.
  • Mohan Lal Sah Balika Vidya Mandir.
  • Oakwood School, established 1989. [6]

Kumaon University

Nainital is home to one of the two campuses of Kumaon University [7] (the other being Almora). The university was founded in 1973 when it incorporated the Dan Singh Bisht (DSB) Goverment College (commonly called "the Degree College"), which had been founded in 1951, with the mathematician Dr. A.N. Singh as its first principal.

ARIES (State Observatory)

The 50-year old State Observatory at Nainital was reborn in 2004 as ARIES, the Aryabhatta Research Institute of Observational-SciencES, an autonomous institute under the Department of Science and Technology, Govt. of India. The Observatory, which had come into existence in Varanasi in 1954, was moved the following year to Nainital, under its more transparent skies. In 1961 it was moved once again to its present location--Manora Peak (altitude 1951 m.)--a few kms south of the Nainital town. The first director of the observatory was Dr. Vainu Bappu, who went on to direct the Kodaikanal Observatory in the 1960s. ARIES's main objective is to provide national optical observing facilities for research in astronomy, astrophysics, and the atmospheric sciences. ARIES hosts five optical telescopes of sizes 15cm, 38cm, 52cm, 56cm, and 104cm. The 104cm telescope, the Sampurnanand telescope, has been the mainstay of the photometric, spectrophotometric and polarimetric observations.

In 1984 J.C. Bhattacharyya and his group at the Indian Institute of Astrophysics in Bangalore and Uttar Pradesh State Observatory at Naini Tal discovered two more rings of Saturn during the occultation.

Environmental Degradation

In recent years, academics, geologists, concerned citizens and the judiciary have become alarmed at the rate of new construction in Nainital and its effect on the Naini lake. As a result, efforts have been undertaken to check the deterioration of the lake and its surrounding ecosystem. Desilting of the lake and afforestation of the catchment area have been initiated; however these measures have not been sufficient to cope with the ever increasing pressure on its fragile ecosystem. The number of tourists, and with them the number of vehicles entering the town, is rapidly increasing and this, if not checked, could turn Nainital into a disfigured and despoiled town.

Places of Interest

In and Around Nainital

  • Naina Devi Temple.
  • St. John in the Wilderness, established in 1846 (and described above), has a brass memorial to the victims of the Landslip of 1880.
  • The High Court of Uttaranchal state is also located in Nainital town, as are the headquarters of the Kumaon, one of the two commissionaries of Uttaranchal state.
  • Naina (or China) Peak.
  • Snow View.
  • Tiffin Top
  • Hanuman Garh.
  • Laria Kanta.
  • Land's End.
  • High Altitude Zoo.
  • Gurney House.

Outside Nainital

Nainital in Literature

Hannah S. Battersby

Naini Tal Catastrophe

  • 1887. Hannah S. Battersby. From the book: Home Lyrics, Toronto : Hunter, Rose & Co.

The Naini Tal Catastrophe of 18th September 1880
... And though the sky hung like a sable pall
Over the fair oasis, nestling calm
Beneath the trusted shelter of the hills,
And o'er the broad lake-outlet of the floods,
What cause had they to fear? 'Twas often thus,
And the long wished-for rains would bring forth joy
So reasoned they who, peaceful, viewed unmoved
Th' outpouring of that sullen ocean cloud,
When suddenly, they who had calmly felt
So safe one little span of time before,
Discovered in dismay the swollen floods
Meant danger—that the safety of their homes.
Was menaced, walls were tottering, waters rose, ...

For scarcely had they timely refuge found,
Than a huge limb of the great mountain fell,
Sweeping the fair hill-side of house and land,
And burying dozens of their fellow men
In one uncompromising, living tomb! ...

Strong men in the proud glory of life's prime,
Women in joyful trustfulness of love
With little children in full bloom of life;
All in the twinkling of an eye cut down,
In that rude harvest of the tyrant Death! ...

Now the late lovely valley, Naini Tal
Stands as a witness of the frailty
Of human strength 'gainst the o'erwhelming might ...

Kipling

Story of the Gadsbys

  • 1889. Rudyard Kipling Story of the Gadsbys. From chapter, The World Without. "CURTISS. There’s something in that. It was slightly noticeable now you come to mention it. But she’s at Naini Tal and he’s at Simla. ANTHONY. He had to go to Simla to look after a globe-trotter relative of his—a person with a title. Uncle or aunt. BLAYNE. And there he got engaged. No law prevents a man growing tired of a woman. ANTHONY. Except that he mustn’t do it till the woman is tired of him. And the Herriott woman was not that. CURTISS. She may be now. Two months of Naini Tal works wonders." From chapter, Tents of Kedar, "SCENE—A Naini Tal dinner for thirty-four. Plate, wines, crockery, and khitmatgars care fully calculated to scale of Rs. 6000 per mensem, less Exchange. Table split lengthways by bank of flowers. MRS. HERRIOTT. (After conversation has risen to proper pitch.) Ah! Didn’t see you in the crush in the drawing-room. (Sotto voce.) Where have you been all this while, Pip?" .... "PARTNER ON LEFT. Very close tonight, isn’t it? You find it too much for you? MRS. H. Oh, no, not in the least. But they really ought to have punkahs, even in your cool Naini Tal, oughtn’t they? (Turns, dropping fan and raising eyebrows.) CAPT. G. It’s all right. (Aside.) Here comes the storm!"

Under the Deodars

  • 1895. Rudyard Kipling, Only a Subaltern in Under the Deodars From the short story: "Bobby pressed his forehead against the rain-splashed window-pane as the train lumbered across the sodden Doab, and prayed for the health of the Tyneside Tail Twisters. Naini Tal had sent down her contingent with all speed; the lathering ponies of the Dalhousie Road staggered into Pathankot, taxed to the full stretch of their strength; while from cloudy Darjiling the Calcutta Mail whirled up the last straggler of the little army that was to fight a fight, in which was neither medal nor honour for the winning, against an enemy none other than "the sickness that destroyeth in the noonday."

M'Crindle

  • 1901. John Watson M'Crindle. Ancient India: As Described in Classical Literature, Archibald Constable & Company, Westminister. On page 59, the Greek Historian and Geographer Strabo (63 BC - c. 24 AD) is quoted: "He says also that there are monkeys, rollers of rocks, which climb precipices and roll down stones upon their pursuers, and that most of the animals that are tame with us are wild in India." Footnote: "In a paper read before the Royal Irish Academy in 1884, Dr. V. Ball, referring to this passage says: "But that it is not impossible that the story may have referred to real monkeys will be apparent from the following personal experience of my own: When at Malwa Tal, a lake near Naini Tal, in the Himalayas, I was warned that in passing under a landslip, which slopes down to the lake, I should be liable to have stones thrown at me by monkeys. Regarding this as being possibly a traveller's tale, I made a particular point of going to the spot in order to see what could have given rise to it. As I approached the base of the landslip, near the road on the north side of the lake, I saw a number of brown monkeys (Inuus rhesus) rush to the sides and across the top of the landslip, and presently pieces of loosened stone and shale came tumbling down near where I stood. I fully satisfied myself that this was not merely accidental, for I distinctly saw one monkey industriously with both forepaws and with obvious malice prepense, pushing the loose shingle off a shoulder of rock. I then tried the effect of throwing stones at them, and this made them quite angry, and the number of fragments which they set rolling was speedily doubled."

Premchand

Godaan, or the Gift of the Cow

  • 1921. Munshi Premchand. Godaan (or The Gift of the Cow). (Quoted from: The Gift of the Cow: A Translation of the classic Hindi novel, Godaan, by Premchand, translated by Gordon C. Roadarmel, with a new introduction by Vasudha Dalmia. Indiana University Press, 2002). On Page 384: "... wildest dreams. Previously his only house had been in Lucknow. Now it became necessary to acquire houses in three other places-Naini Tal, Mussoorie and Simla. It would detract from his new glory to visit those places and stay at a hotel or ...." On Page 385: "... lower than his dog now wanted to marry his daughter into the family ! Incredible ! The Rai Sahib, in Naini Tal at the time the offer was made, almost burst with pride. Although he had no desire to apply any kind ..." On Page 390: "... a mournful look on his face. Bowing all the way to the floor, he said, 'I was just leaving for Naini Tal in order too see your honour. By good fortune I've met you here. Your honour is in good health?' At ..." On Page 393: "... the marriage question, at which the Raja Sahib got angry and left. The next day the Rai Sahib departed for Naini Tal, and a day later Rudrapal left for England with Saroj. The two men were no longer related as father and ..."

Jim Corbett

Man-Eaters of Kumaon

  • 1944. Jim Corbett. Man-Eaters of Kumaon. (Quotes from: Oxford India Paperback Edition, 2002) On Page 1: "... however, for some inexplicable reason, did not die, and was causing Government a great deal of anxiety when I visited Naini Tal four years later. Rewards were offered, special shikaris employed, and parties of Gurkhas sent out from the depot in Almora. ..." On Page 2: "...I received a visit from Berthoud. Berthoud, who was Deputy Commissioner of Naini Tal at that time, and who after ..." On Page 10: "... was about as good as finding a needle in two haystacks. Plans in plenty I had made way back in Naini Tal; one I has already tried and wild horses would not induce me to try it again, and the others-now that ..." On Page 26: "... tigress had swallowed whole were sent to me in spirits by the Tahsildar, and were buried by me in the Naini Tal lake close to the Nandadevi temples. While I had been skinning the tigress the Tahsildar and his staff, assisted by ..." On Page 27: "... the up-grades, riding him on the flat, and running behind him on the down-grades, we covered the forty-five miles to Naini Tal between 9 a. m. and 6 p. m. At a durbar held in Naini Tal a few months later Sir ..." On Page 41: "... for bait as soon as I had used up the four young male buffaloes I had brought with me from Naini Tal. The Headmen of nearby villages had now assembled, and from them I learned that the tiger had last been seen ..." etc. etc.

Man Eating Leopard of Rudraprayag

  • 1948. Jim Corbett, The Man-Eating Leopard of Rudraprayag, Oxford University Press. (Quoted from Oxford India edition, 2002) On page 3, "Another two miles, along the last flat bit of ground you will see for many a day, and you will have reached Rudraprayag, where you and I, my pilgrim friend, must part, for you way lies across the Alaknanda and up the left bank of the Mandakini to Kedarnath, while mine lies over the mountains to my home in Naini Tal." On page 24, "It was during one of the intervals of Gilbert and Sullivan's Yeomen of the Guard, which was showing at the Chalet Theatre in Naini Tal in 1925, that I first had any definite news of the Rudraprayag man-eater." From the epilogue: "A typical son ..., of that simple and hardy hill-folk; and of that greater India, whose sons only those few who live among them are privileged to know. It is these big-hearted sons of the soil, no matter what their caste or creed, who will one day weld the contending factions into a composite whole and make of India a great nation."

The Temple Tigers

  • 1954. Jim Corbett. The Temple Tigers and More Man-Eaters of Kumaon, Oxford University Press. (Quoted from the Oxford India edtion, 2002) On Page 37: (From Muktesar Man-Eater) "EIGHTEEN MILES TO THE north-north-east of Naini Tal is a hill eight thousand feet high and twelve to fifteen miles long, running east and west. The western end of the hill rises steeply and near this end is the Muktesar Veterinary Research Institute, ... situated on the northern face of the hill and command(s) one of the best views to be had anywhere of the Himalayan snowy range.... from a commanding point on any of the hills an uninterrupted view can be obtained not only of the snows to the north but also of the hills and valleys to the east and to the west as far as the eye can see. People who have lived in Muktesar claim that it is the most beautiful spot in Kumaon, and that its climate has no equal.... A tigress that thought as highly of the amenities of Muktesar as human beings did, took up her residence ..." On Page 58: "... sleep. Four hours later I was on the move again and at midday I was back in my home at Naini Tal after an absence of seventy-two hours. The shooting of a man-eater gives one a feeling of satisfaction . Satisfaction at having done a job that badly needed doing. Satisfaction at having out-manoeuvred, on his own ground, a very worthy antagonist. And, greatest satisfaction of all, at having made a small portion of the earth safe for a brave little girl to walk on." On Page 112: From the Talla Des Man-Eater "... confirmed my fears that my eardrum had been destroyed. A month later we moved up to our summer home at Naini Tal, and at the Ramsay Hospital I received further confirmation of this diagnosis from Colonel Barber, Civil Surgeon of Naini Tal. ..." etc. etc.

Notable people

Notable people who were born in or resided in Nainital:

  • Elsie Inglis. Pioneer Scottish woman physician and social reformer. Founder of, The Hospice, a maternity hospital for poor women in Edinburgh. Founder of Scottish Women's Suffragette Federation. (Shortly before her death in 1917 women above the age of 30 were granted the vote.) Organizer of the first women’s medical unit to France during the First World War. Born in Nainital, August 16, 1864.
  • Jim Corbett. Consummate hunter of man-eating tigers and, later, a conservationist. Author of The Maneaters of Kumaon, The Man-Eating Leopard of Rudraprayag, etc. Lived in Nainital (summers) and Kaladhungi (winters) until 1947. India's first national park was later renamed Corbett National Park in his honour. Born in Nainital July 25, 1875.
  • Major General Percy Hobart. British military engineer and commander of the 79th Armoured Division during World War II. An armoured warfare expert, he was responsible for many of the specialized armoured vehibles ('Hobart's Funnies') employed in the invasion of Normandy. Born in Nainital, June 14, 1885.
  • Govind Ballabh Pant (1887-1961), A prominent leader of India's independence movement, Home Minister of India (1955-61), Chief Minister of the United Provinces (and later Uttar Pradesh) (1947-55), and recipient of India's highest civilian award, the Bharat Ratna. Was the Swarajist Party Representative from Nainital to the British India Legislative Assembly in 1925 and later visited Nainital often while Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh. Ramsay Hospital in Nainital was renamed G.B. Pant Hospital in his honour.
  • Major General Orde Charles Wingate British soldier and commander of the special military unit the Chindits in Burma during World War II. Born in Ramsay Hospital, Nainital, February 26, 1903.
  • Field Marshal Sam Manekshaw (b. 3 April 1914), Indian Army Chief of Staff during the Indo-Pakistani War of 1971. Attended Sherwood College, Nainital
  • Narayan Dutt Tiwari, First Chief Minister of Uttaranchal, formerly, Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh, and Finance Minister of India. Born, village Baluti, district Nainital, October 18, 1925.
  • Amitabh Bachchan, (b. 11 October 1942) Bollywood actor. Attended Sherwood College, Nainital.
  • Naseeruddin Shah (b. 20 July 1950). Art films and Bollywood actor. Attended St.Joseph's College, Nainital

References

  • Imperial Gazeteer of India, volume 18, Oxford University Press, Oxford and London, 1908.
  • Murphy, C.W. 1906. A Guide to Naini Tal and Kumaun, Allahabad, United Provinces.
  • Penny Illustrated Paper, October 2, 1880
  • Kennedy, Dane. 1996. The Magic Mountains: Hill Stations and the British Raj, University of California Press, Berkeley, Los Angeles, and Oxford. 264 pages.
  • Kipling, R. 1889. The Story of the Gadsbys. Macmillan and Company, London.
  • Kipling, R. 1895. Under the Deodars. Macmillan and Company, London.
  • M'Crindle, J.W. 1901. Ancient India: As Described in Classical Literature, Archibald Constable & Company, Westminister.
  • Premchand, 1921. Godaan (The Gift of the Cow). (From: 2002. The Gift of the Cow: A Translation of the classic Hindi novel, Godaan, by Premchand, translated by Gordon C. Roadarmel, with a new introduction by Vasudha Dalmia. Indiana University Press.)
  • Corbett, J. 1944. Man-Eaters of Kumaon. (Oxford India Reprint, 2002.)
  • Corbett, J. 1948. The Man Eating Leopard of Rudraprayag. (Oxford India Reprint, 2002)
  • Corbett, J. 1954. The Temple Tigers and More Man-Eaters of Kumaon. (Oxford India Reprint, 2002).
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