Megos on Action Directe in Frankenjura, 2014
|Born||12 August 1993|
|Occupation||Professional rock climber|
|Height||174 cm (5 ft 9 in)|
|Weight||57 kg (126 lb)|
|Type of climber||Bouldering, Lead climbing|
|Known for||Being the first climber to onsight 9a (5.14d) and the third to redpoint 9b+ (5.15c)|
|Updated on September 9, 2018.|
Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to ever on-sight (climb without prior practice or advice) a route graded 9a (5.14d). He has climbed multiple notably hard routes and boulder problems, including one 9b+ (5.15c) route (Perfecto Mundo), two 9b (5.15b) routes (First Round, First Minute and Fight Club), and some boulder problems with a confirmed 8C (V15) rating. Megos has won many international competitions, mainly in Youth or Junior category. In 2017, he won the silver medal in both the Bouldering European Championships, in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia, also in 2018 he won bronze at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Chamonix, and one week later won Gold in the Briancon World Cup. Megos also has a background in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, since he has competed multiple times and placed 2nd and 3rd. He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.
- Supernova - First Ascent.
- Demencia Senil - First Ascent by Chris Sharma.
- La Rambla - Megos climbed it on his second try.
- Realization - First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Megos climbed it in one day, on his third try.
- Corona - Third Ascent.
- Classified - First Ascent.
- Modified - First Ascent.
- First Ley - Megos also sent a variation called La Ley Indignata 9a (5.14d), possible first ascent.
- Thor's Hammer - First Repeat. First Ascent by Adam Ondra.
- Geocache - First Ascent. Repeated by Adam Ondra.
- Becoming - First Ascent.
- Super Crackinette - First Ascent.
- Jaws 2 - Sent on third try.
- Action Directe - Megos sent this route in just two hours. Action Directe was the world's first 9a, and continues to be a benchmark for the grade.
- La Sensación del Bloque - March 2017 - FA of the first south american 9a in Valle de los Condores, Chile.
- Dreamcatcher - Fourth Ascent. Climbed in one day, other previous ascents by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden took multiple days.
- Era Vella - Second Try. Subject to much controversy about whether it is 9a(14d) or 8c+(14c).
Other Famous Ascents
- Victimes del Passat
- The Finnish Line - Summer 2017 - Second ascent of hard testpiece established by Nalle Hukkataival in the Rocklands bouldering area of South Africa. The grade is still controversial, but consensus seems to grow on 8C (V15).
- Wheel of Life: - First Ascent by Dai Koyamada. Megos suggested a sport climbing grade of 9a (5.14d), but this not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, rated 8C.
- Lucid Dreaming - Third Ascent of Paul Robinson's boulder, originally graded 8C+ (V16).
Climbing World Championships
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
- "Alexander Megos on Instagram: "I'm incredibly relieved... Clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+"". Instagram. Retrieved 2018-05-09.
- "Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada's First 5.15". www.rockandice.com. 16 August 2016. Retrieved 18 August 2016.
- "Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- "Alex Megos: Super-Fast 5.15a". Climbing. 30 November 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2016.
- "Alex Megos: Corona (5.15a) - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- http://sbx.me, Sbellcheck -. "Alexander Megos - Pro Team - DMM Climbing Equipment". DMM Climbing Equipment. Innovative climbing gear, made in Wales. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- "Video: Alex Megos Climbs Modified (5.15a) in Frankenjura". Climbing. 9 November 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2016.
- "Alex Megos Repeats Thor's Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- "Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-06-02.
- "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 24, 2016 at 6:06am UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-10-24.
- "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 17, 2016 at 9:02pm UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-11-13.
- "Instagram post by Alexander Megos • Oct 11, 2017 at 12:44am UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2017-10-11.
- "Alex Megos Sends Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- "Alex Megos Sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d for Fourth Ascent". www.gripped.com. Retrieved 27 Aug 2016.
- "Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Wooop! The ultra classic "Era Vella" went down yesterday on my second try. I checked it out first and then straight away did it. This one…"". Instagram. Retrieved 2018-04-18.
- "World's First 9a Onsight? - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- Pohl, Bjorn (Jun 1, 2016). "UK Climbing". Retrieved Jun 2, 2016.
- "TCT, second 9a onsight by Alex Megos". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2017-11-08.
- "Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia's Grampians". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- "Daniel Woods sends Finnish line says v15". gripped.com. Retrieved 2018-09-07.
- "Alex Megos on a V14 - Gripped Magazine". Gripped Magazine. 2014-11-26. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- "Alex Megos Makes Fast Work Of 'Double Demerit' (V14/8B+) | EpicTV". www.epictv.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- "Videos: Alex Megos Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
- "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 30, 2016 at 5:46pm UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-10-31.
- IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Megos's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
|Wikimedia Commons has media related to Alexander Megos.|
- "Alexander Megos". Tenaya.
- "Alexander Megos". DMMclimbing.
- "Alexander Megos". Patagonia.
- "Megos 5.15a second try". climbing.com.
- "Megos sends First Round First Minute". climbing.com.
- "Megos climbs modified 5.15a in Frankenjura". climbing.com.
- "World's first 9a onsight". DPMclimbing.
- "Megos Corona 5.15a". DPMclimbing.
- "Megos sends Action Directe 5.14d in two hours". DPMclimbing.
- "Megos climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands (Videos)". DPMclimbing.
- "Megos sends First Round First Minute 5.15b and more". rockandice.
- "Megos establishes 5.15a link up in Australia's Grampians". rockandice.
- "Megos sends frankenjura's hardest". rockandice.
- "Megos repeats Thor's Hammer 5.15a Flatanger Cave". rockandice.
- "Megos". Redbull.
- "Megos makes fast work double demerit V14/8b". Epic TV.
- "Megos V14". Gripped.
- "Megos". UK CLimbing.