Alex Megos

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Alexander Megos
Action Directe 11 (9a), Foto Jorgos Megos.JPG
Megos on Action Directe in Frankenjura, 2014
Personal information
NationalityGerman
Born (1993-08-12) 12 August 1993 (age 26)
Erlangen, Germany
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height173 cm (5 ft 8 in)[1]
Weight57 kg (126 lb)[1]
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering, Lead climbing
Highest grade
Known forBeing the first climber to onsight 9a (5.14d) and the third to redpoint 9b+ (5.15c)
Updated on August 15, 2019.

Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb without prior practice or advice) a route graded 9a (5.14d). He has climbed multiple notably hard routes and boulder problems, including one 9b+ (5.15c) route (Perfecto Mundo), two 9b (5.15b) routes (First Round, First Minute and Fight Club), and some boulder problems with a confirmed 8C (V15) rating. Megos has won many international competitions.

Climbing career[edit]

Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. From the year 2006 on, Megos trained in the national base "Franconia" of the climbing association Bavaria and later at the Federal Base sports climbing in Erlangen, Nuremberg. [2] There he was looked after by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who both still train and coach Megos today. In 2007 Megos got his first 8a (5.13b), in 2009 he climbed his first 8c (5.14b) with "Drive by shooting" and in 2011 his first 9a (5.14d) with "San Ku Kai".

Since 2006, Alexander Megos actively participates in climbing competitions. He won two (Youth) European Championship titles (2009 and 2010) and a (Youth) Vice World Champion title in 2011. [3] In 2009 he won every single competition in the EYC series. [4] In 2017 he was European runner-up in bouldering and won on July 21, 2018 his first lead World Cup in Briançon (France). [5]

After graduation in 2012, he focused on rock climbing. On March 24, 2013, he succeeded on the route Estado Critico in the Spanish climbing area Siurana which was the world's first route in the difficulty of 9a that could be watched. In August 2013, Megos climbed with R.E.D. 9a the hardest route of the Australian continent and with the Wheelchair, the heaviest boulder of the Australian continent. [6] Due to the unusual length for a boulder he assessed the difficulty of the Wheelchair not on the usual boulder scale, but on the French scale for a route climbing with (9a +). [7]

Alexander Megos is known for extremely fast repetitions of heavy rock climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June of 2014, he did 9 routes in degrees 9a (5.14d) and 9a+ (5.15a) and 8 routes in degrees 8c+ (5.14c) in his home climbing area, the Franconian Switzerland, including "Modified" 9a+ (5.15a), one of the hardest routes in the Franconian Switzerland. He also did a redpoint-tour of the "Action Directe", within two hours of the first attempt, which is a record. [8] In addition, he secured the only one-day tour of the top route "Biography / Realization" (9a+ (5.15a)) in Ceüse, France. [9]

In June 2014, Alexander Megos together with Roger Schäli, did the first ascent of the 20-pitch route "FLY" 8c (5.14b) in Staldeflue (Switzerland), which is one of the heaviest Bigwall climbing routes in the world.[10]

On October 1, 2015, he climbed the route "Supernova" in Franconian Switzerland and by doing so he probably established the first route in grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a + / 9b French) in German-speaking countries. [11]

With the ascent of the route "First Round First Minute" he succeeded in December 2015 his first climbing line in the grade 9b (5.15b).

On May 9, 2018, he secured the first ascent of the route "Perfecto Mundo" in Margalef (Spain), a line drilled by Chris Sharma and designed for a long time. Megos and Sharma had tried it together several times in the days before his visit and rated it with 9b+ (5.15c).

In 2017, he won the silver medal in both the Bouldering European Championships, in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia, also in 2018 he won bronze at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Chamonix,[12] and one week later won Gold in the Briancon World Cup.[13] Later in the year he won bronze in the Lead World Championships.[14] He followed this up with a silver in the 2019 Lead World Championships. Moreover, by reaching the finals of the combined event of the World Championships, he secured a qualification spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics.

Megos also has a background in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has competed multiple times and placed 2nd and 3rd. In the most recent La Sportiva Legends competition in 2018 he won first place.[15] He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, which is widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes. Megos has been trained by German coaches Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb for more than 13 years now.

Notable ascents[edit]

Redpointed routes[edit]

9b+ (5.15c)

9b (5.15b)

  • Fightclub - First Ascent.[17]
  • First Round First Minute - Third Ascent. First Ascent by Chris Sharma.[18]

9a+/b (5.15a/b)

  • Supernova - First Ascent.[18]

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Demencia Senil - First Ascent by Chris Sharma.[19]
  • La Rambla - Megos climbed it on his second try.[20]
  • Realization - First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Megos climbed it in one day, on his third try.[21]
  • Corona - Third Ascent.[20]
  • Classified - First Ascent.[20]
  • Modified - First Ascent.[22]
  • First Ley - Megos also sent a variation called La Ley Indignata 9a (5.14d), possible first ascent.[18]
  • Thor's Hammer - First Repeat. First Ascent by Adam Ondra.[23]
  • Geocache - First Ascent. Repeated by Adam Ondra.[24]
  • Becoming - First Ascent.[25]
  • Super Crackinette - First Ascent.[26]
  • Jaws 2 - Sent on third try.[27]

9a (5.14d)

  • Action Directe - Megos sent this route in just two hours. Action Directe was the world's first 9a, and continues to be a benchmark for the grade.[28]
  • La Sensación del Bloque - March 2017 - FA of the first South American 9a in Valle de los Condores, Chile.
  • Dreamcatcher - Fourth Ascent. Climbed in one day, other previous ascents by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden took multiple days.[29]
  • Era Vella - Second Try. Subject to much controversy about whether it is 9a(14d) or 8c+(14c).[30]

Other Famous Ascents

  • Pure Imagination: 8c+ (5.14c). Flash.[31]
  • Fly: 8c (5.14b). Megos made the first free ascent of this twenty pitch big wall in Switzerland.[21]
  • Hubble: 8c+ (5.14c) - Megos became the first to climb both Action Directe and Hubble by sending Hubble in June of 2016.[32]

Onsighted routes[edit]

9a (5.14d)

  • Estado Critico - World's first 9a onsight.[31]
  • TCT[33]

8c+ (5.14c)

  • Victimes del Passat[19]

Boulder problems[edit]

8C / 8C+ 

  • Wheelchair - First Ascent. Although Megos suggested a 9a+ sport climbing grade because of its length, this Wheel of Life variation is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, harder than Wheel of Life, and possibly worth a 8C+ (V16) rating.[28][34]

8C (V15)

  • The Finnish Line - Summer 2017 - Second ascent of hard testpiece established by Nalle Hukkataival in the Rocklands bouldering area of South Africa. The grade is still controversial, but consensus seems to grow on 8C (V15).[35]
  • Wheel of Life: - First Ascent by Dai Koyamada. Megos suggested a sport climbing grade of 9a (5.14d), but this not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, rated 8C.[34]
  • Lucid Dreaming - Third Ascent of Paul Robinson's boulder, originally graded 8C+ (V16).[18]

8B+ (V14)

  • Never Ending Story[21]
  • Bad Boys for Life - First Ascent.[21]
  • Montecore:[36]
  • Riot Act[36]
  • Double Demerit - First Repeat.[37]
  • Sky[38]
  • Trainspotting - First Ascent.[39]

Rankings[edit]

Megos in the 2018 World Championships lead finals

Climbing World Cup[40][edit]

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 55 37 35 - - - - - 22 6
Bouldering - - - 73 - - - - 28 55
Speed - - - - - - - - -
Combined - - - - - - - - 38

Climbing World Championships[edit]

Youth[41]

Discipline 2009
Youth A
2010
Youth A
Lead 8 2

Adult[41]

Discipline 2018 2019
Lead 3 2
Bouldering 25 25
Speed 109 75
Combined 11

Climbing European Championships[41][edit]

Discipline 2010 2017
Lead 23 -
Bouldering - 2
Speed - -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup[edit]

Lead[41][edit]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2017 1 1
2018 1 1 2
2019 1 1 2
Total 1 2 2 5

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b "Reddit AMA Alex Megos". reddit.com. Archived from the original on 8 April 2015.
  2. ^ "Alexander Megos klettert in die Weltspitze". nordbayern.de (in German). Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  3. ^ "Alexander Megos". Red Bull. Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  4. ^ "Alexander Megos digital rock profile".
  5. ^ "Alexander Megos interview after world's first 9a onsight". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  6. ^ "VIDEO: Alexander Megos climbs Wheelchair, ~9a+". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  7. ^ "Alexander Megos frees Modified 9a+ in the Frankenjura". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  8. ^ "Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  9. ^ "Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries". web.archive.org. 2016-01-01. Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  10. ^ "Alexander Megos frees Fly, 8c multipitch in Switzerland's Lauterbrunnental". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  11. ^ "Supernova (11+): Alexander Megos gelingt erste 11+ im Frankenjura! - News zu Klettern - Frankenjura.com". www.frankenjura.com. Retrieved 2019-09-25.
  12. ^ https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/chamonix-2018-highlights-winners-and-top-canadians/
  13. ^ https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/alex-megos-wins-first-lead-world-cup/
  14. ^ https://www.climbing.com/news/results-2018-ifsc-climbing-world-championships/
  15. ^ https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/12/la_sportiva_legends_only_2018-71792
  16. ^ "Alexander Megos on Instagram: "I'm incredibly relieved... Clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+"". Instagram. Retrieved 2018-05-09.
  17. ^ "Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada's First 5.15". www.rockandice.com. 16 August 2016. Retrieved 18 August 2016.
  18. ^ a b c d "Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  19. ^ a b "Alex Megos: Super-Fast 5.15a". Climbing. 30 November 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2016.
  20. ^ a b c "Alex Megos: Corona (5.15a) - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on 2016-05-30. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  21. ^ a b c d http://sbx.me, Sbellcheck -. "Alexander Megos - Pro Team - DMM Climbing Equipment". DMM Climbing Equipment. Innovative climbing gear, made in Wales. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  22. ^ "Video: Alex Megos Climbs Modified (5.15a) in Frankenjura". Climbing. 9 November 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2016.
  23. ^ "Alex Megos Repeats Thor's Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave". www.rockandice.com. Archived from the original on 2016-05-25. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  24. ^ "Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day". www.rockandice.com. Archived from the original on 2016-05-29. Retrieved 2016-06-02.
  25. ^ "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 24, 2016 at 6:06am UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-10-24.
  26. ^ "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 17, 2016 at 9:02pm UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-11-13.
  27. ^ "Instagram post by Alexander Megos • Oct 11, 2017 at 12:44am UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2017-10-11.
  28. ^ a b "Alex Megos Sends Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on 2016-05-30. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  29. ^ "Alex Megos Sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d for Fourth Ascent". www.gripped.com. Retrieved 27 Aug 2016.
  30. ^ "Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Wooop! The ultra classic "Era Vella" went down yesterday on my second try. I checked it out first and then straight away did it. This one…"". Instagram. Retrieved 2018-04-18.
  31. ^ a b "World's First 9a Onsight? - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on 2013-03-29. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  32. ^ Pohl, Bjorn (Jun 1, 2016). "UK Climbing". Retrieved Jun 2, 2016.
  33. ^ "TCT, second 9a onsight by Alex Megos". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2017-11-08.
  34. ^ a b "Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia's Grampians". www.rockandice.com. Archived from the original on 2014-01-01. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  35. ^ "Daniel Woods sends Finnish line says v15". gripped.com. Retrieved 2018-09-07.
  36. ^ a b "Alex Megos on a V14 - Gripped Magazine". Gripped Magazine. 2014-11-26. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  37. ^ "Alex Megos Makes Fast Work Of 'Double Demerit' (V14/8B+) | EpicTV". www.epictv.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  38. ^ "Videos: Alex Megos Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on 2015-06-15. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
  39. ^ "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 30, 2016 at 5:46pm UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-10-31.
  40. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  41. ^ a b c d IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Megos's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.

External links[edit]