Charles Jeffrey (fashion designer)
.jpg)
Charles Jeffrey (born August 1, 1990) is a Scottish fashion designer known for his punk-inspired, gender-fluid designs influenced by his Scottish heritage and London's queer club scene. Jeffrey has been described as "speaking to young London the way Alexander McQueen spoke to his generation,"[1] and by Vogue as "the upholder of all that is human, creative and cheerful about British fashion."[2] Jeffrey launched his label Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY in 2015, after graduating from Central St Martins. He has been nominated for and won numerous industry awards.[3] Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY has been worn by figures as wide-ranging as Harry Styles,[4] Tilda Swinton,[5] Bimini Bon Boulash,[6] and K-pop star J-Hope of BTS.[7]
Early life and education
[edit]Jeffrey was born in Bellshill, North Lanarkshire. As a child he moved around a lot, due to his father being in the British Army, living in Germany, England and Wales.[8] He spent his teenage years back in Scotland in Cumbernauld. Jeffrey drew from a young age, and became interested in fashion as a teenager. At eighteen, he moved to London.[8]
Jeffrey studied for an Art Foundation BA and an MA in Fashion at Central St Martins, where he was tutored by Louise Wilson, who had also tutored Christopher Kane and Alexander McQueen.[9] As a student, Jeffrey interned for four months at Dior's haute couture ateliers in Paris.[8] Jeffrey's graduation show at Central St Martins in 2015 attracted the attention of Fashion East Director Lulu Kennedy. He was also named as one of the "3 designers to watch" out of that year's graduates by Vogue, with his collection described as "an exciting new amalgamation of pop and provocation".[10] It was also during his MA at Central St Martins that Charles Jeffrey developed the LOVERBOY label, which emerged from a monthly club night of the same name that Jeffrey began at Vogue Fabrics in Dalston.[11][12]
Career
[edit]Having caught the attention of Lulu Kennedy at his graduation show in February 2015, Charles Jeffrey's work was showcased in a presentation at the Institute of Contemporary Arts as part of Fashion East's and Topman's joint talent platform MAN, at London Collections: Men (now London Fashion Week Men's) in June 2015.[13] Jeffrey said the platform changed his life: “Had Lulu [Kennedy, Fashion East founder] and Natasha [Booth] not encouraged me to be braver, smarter, and taught me so much of what I now know, my label wouldn't exist."[14] Jeffrey would continue to show as part of Fashion East and Topman's MAN for three seasons, until his first solo show in June 2017.[14] In 2016, Charles Jeffrey was included on the Business of Fashion 500 list as one of the most influential people in fashion.[15] Jeffrey's shows for LOVERBOY have gained a reputation for being theatrical performances as well as fashion shows, often working with theatre and dance professionals.[16] His "Tantrum" show in 2017, working with director Theo Adams, was described as "one of those shows that will be talked about for years."[17]
In November 2017, Charles Jeffrey's first solo exhibition, THE COME UP, opened at the NOW Gallery in Greenwich.[18] Incorporating Jeffrey's "emotive and vibrant illustrations" with "large sculptural pieces hang[ing] from the gallery's seven-meter ceiling," the installation was "an interactive and three-dimensional representation of the Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY brand and cult club night."[18] Jeffrey has contributed as editor and creative director to several editions of LOVE Magazine, including a Maison Margiela retrospective shoot (in collaboration with John Galliano), and as Creative Director of a Vivienne Westwood archive story for Another Man.[1] In December 2017, Jeffrey won the British Fashion Award's Emerging Talent: Menswear Award.[19]
In 2018, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY launched its first womenswear capsule collection, Awrite Hen? exclusively for Matches Fashion. ""The women in my life have been wearing our collections since the beginning but it's been a thrill to develop these pieces specifically with a woman in mind," Jeffrey commented.[20] In October 2018, Jeffrey won the GQ Man of the Year Award for Breakthrough Designer.
With the COVID-19 pandemic forcing London Fashion Week to hold its first digital fashion week in 2020, Jeffrey used the occasion to raise money for UK Black Pride, in light of rising consciousness around the Black Lives Matter movement. Jeffrey held a live-streamed fundraiser from the basement of Vogue Fabrics, where the LOVERBOY club nights began, spotlighting Black artists, performers, and fashion designers from his extended queer community. Jeffrey said of his decision, "Loverboy's always been a happening, a place where people club together to do something great...I thought if I could do it then, I can do it now.”[21]
In 2021, the Theatre Royal Drury Lane owners, Andrew and Madeleine Lloyd Webber, commissioned Jeffrey to redesign the uniforms of its hospitality staff, known as the Red Coats. Of Jeffrey's new designs, Madeleine Lloyd Webber remarked, "“As we undertook the enormous project of reimagining Theatre Royal Drury Lane, we knew we wanted to redesign our iconic Red Coats. Charles’ singular perspective, inspired creativity and incredible ethos made this an easy choice. I was particularly inspired by how Charles’ designs seemed to reflect and pay tribute to the magnificent architecture of Theatre Royal Drury Lane, which we have painstakingly restored to its former glory.”[22]
Collections
[edit]Charles Jeffrey's first solo show for his LOVERBOY label was in June 2017, and he has presented collections twice yearly since.[23]
- AW23 Engine Room [24]
- SS23 PHWOARRR [25]
- AW22 Art of Noise [26]
- SS22 Portal [27]
- AW21 Gloom [28]
- SS21 The Healing [16]
- AW20 Hell Mend You [29]
- SS20 Mind's Instructions [30]
- AW19 Darling Little Sillies [31]
- SS19 Emergence [32]
- AW18 Tantrum [33][34]
- SS18 First solo show, Portrait of a LOVERBOY [35]
Awards
[edit]- 2017 British Emerging Talent - Menswear, British Fashion Awards[19]
- 2016 Young Designer of the Year, Scottish Fashion Awards[38]
- 2015 Fashion Graduate of the Year, Scottish Fashion Awards[39]
Influences and collaborators
[edit]Jeffrey credits the club night LOVERBOY at Vogue Fabrics in London's East End - started by Jeffrey in 2014 to help fund his MA - for helping to form his label's aesthetic: “the clothes were made in that club space, and I learned a lot about being a queer person through being there.”[40][11] Jeffrey has described the club nights as a “no-rules nocturnal laboratory,” inspired by 1980s clubs like Blitz and Taboo, and legendary queer performers such as Leigh Bowery and Boy George.[40]
Jeffrey's collections reflect his Scottish heritage, including kilts, tartan, and references to Scottish traditions.[9] In 2017, Jeffrey designed a signature LOVERBOY tartan, debuting it as part of his Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, "Tantrum."[41] LOVERBOY'S Autumn/Winter 2020 Collection, "Hell Mend You" was partially inspired by the intricate costumes worn for the Festival of the Horse, on the Orkney Island of South Ronaldsay.[42]
Jeffrey has many regular collaborators, including make-up artist Lucy Bridge,[43] visual artist and theatre director Theo Adams, set designer Gary Card,[44] musician Tom Furse, and photographers Tim Walker[45] and Thurstan Redding.[46] Sarah Mower of Vogue notes how "the ‘we’ and the ‘our’ is the collective point about the Loverboy phenomenon. Jeffrey is...a ringmaster and pied piper of many who have formed a movement sprung straight out of the British art school tradition."[2]
References
[edit]- ^ a b BoF 500, Charles Jeffrey
- ^ a b Sarah Mower, Vogue, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Spring 2018
- ^ London Fashion Week, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY
- ^ Douglas Greenwood, i-D, a guide to Harry Styles' fashion evolution
- ^ Jeremy O Harris, Vogue, Playful, Fantastical, Rare: At Home With Tilda Swinton On Her Highlands Estate 14 February 2021
- ^ "Bimini is solidifying their status as one of the most legendary British drag entertainers of all time" Gay Times, Honours Issue, December 2021.
- ^ BTS J-Hope Showed Up At Incheon Airport In A Street-Casual Outfit [1] August 7, 2022
- ^ a b c Emma Brown, Interview Magazine The Menswear Designer Dec 9, 2015
- ^ a b Lauren Cochrane, Guardian, Charles Jeffrey and the designers transforming fashion for a post-gender world January 10, 2018
- ^ Nick Remsen, Vogue, 3 Designers to Watch from Central Saint Martins’ 2015 Graduates February 21, 2015
- ^ a b Emma Hope Allwood, Dazed, Meet the ringleader of London's next-generation club kids June 15, 2015
- ^ Vogue Fabrics Dalston
- ^ British Fashion Council Fashion East supports Grace Wales Bonner and Charles Jeffrey at LCM
- ^ a b Lauretta Roberts, TheIndustry.fashion Fashion East and TOPMAN reveal line-up for MAN SS18 26 May 2017
- ^ Sarah Young, Independent, THE MOST INFLUENTIAL PEOPLE IN FASHION REVEALED – ZAYN MALIK AND CHARLES JEFFREY MAKE THE CUT FOR THE FIRST TIME 4 October 2016
- ^ a b Osman Ahmed, i-D, LOVERBOY SS21 brings the vibrancy of queer London nightlife to you 22 October 2020
- ^ Theo Adams Tantrum: Loverboy - AW18
- ^ a b NOW Gallery, THE COME UP
- ^ a b Ella Alexander, Harper's Bazaar, Fashion Awards 2017: The winners December 4, 2017
- ^ Lauretta Roberts, TheIndustry.fashion, Charles Jeffrey-Loverboy creates exclusive womenswear collection for Matchesfashion.com 6 February 2018
- ^ Sarah Mower, Vogue, Charles Jeffrey's London Fashion Week Livestream Raises Money for UK Black Pride June 14, 2020
- ^ Teo van der Broeke GQ, Charles Jeffrey has redesigned the Theatre Royal Drury Lane's uniforms and they're brilliantly bonkers 29 July 2021
- ^ Vogue, All Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Collections
- ^ SHOWstudio Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY ENters An Industrial Dystopia 3 August 2023
- ^ Hypebae Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY‘s Spring/Summer 2023 “PHWOARRR!” collection celebrates queerness in all of its glory 22 February 2023
- ^ Culted,The Art of Noise: Charles Jeffrey is Ripping Up The Rule Book
- ^ Dazed, Your rolling guide to the must-see shows at London Fashion Week 22 September 2021
- ^ Sarah Mower, Vogue, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear March 29, 2021
- ^ Osman Ahmed, i-D, Charles Jeffrey goes primeval for AW20 6 January 2020
- ^ Dal Chodha, Wallpaper, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY S/S 2020 London Fashion Week Men's
- ^ Matthew Whitehouse, i-D Tim Walker captures Charles Jeffrey at a career turning point Jun 7, 2019
- ^ Sarah Mower, Vogue, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Spring 2019 Menswear 11 June 2018
- ^ Sarah Mower, Vogue, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Fall 2018 Menswear 7 Jan, 2018
- ^ Show Studio "Tantrum" video Tantrum Charles Jeffrey AW18
- ^ Wonderland Magazine, LFWM: CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY SS18 June 10, 2017
- ^ Zac Maoui, GQ, Charles Jeffrey: ‘Loverboy allows you to not know what you're doing’ 16 October 2018
- ^ Abigail Southan, The Last Magazine, THE 2018 LVMH PRIZE: CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY May 23, 2018
- ^ BBC "Scottish Fashion Awards Winners Announced" 21 October 2016
- ^ Danielle Wightman-Stone, fashionunited.uk, Scottish Fashion Awards names 2015 winners 4 September 2015
- ^ a b Emma Elwick-Bates, W Magazine, Fashion Designer Charles Jeffrey Credits Clubbing With His Success 5 October 2018
- ^ The Scottish Register of Tartans Tartan Details:Loverboy
- ^ Huw Williams, BBC, South Ronaldsay's 'amazing' horse costumes inspire catwalk collection 16 January 2020
- ^ Christina Kapourtzoudi, SHOWStudio LUCY BRIDGE ON THE POWER OF MAKE-UP ON THE CATWALK April 1, 2020
- ^ Osman Ahmed, New York Times The Artist Making Otherworldly Sets for London's Emerging Designers June 14, 2018
- ^ TJ Sidhu, The Face, Charles Jeffrey's got The Healing power 21 October 2020
- ^ LOVE Magazine, THURSTAN REDDING CAPTURES CHARLES JEFFREY’S LOVERBOY BACKSTAGE FOR MEN’S SS20 12 June 2019