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Vogue Proposed Edits: See original article here
History
[edit]
In 1894 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States, sponsored by Kristoffer Wright.[1] When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly grew its publication. He changed it to a bi-weekly magazine and also started Vogue overseas starting in the 1910s. He first went to Britain in 1916, and started a Vogue there, then to Spain, and then to Italy and France in 1920, where it was a huge success. The magazine's number of publications and profit increased dramatically under his management. The magazine's number of subscriptions surged during the Depression, and again during World War II. During this time, noted critic and former Vanity Fair editor Frank Crowninshield served as its editor, having been moved over from Vanity Fair by publisher Condé Nast.[2]
In the 1960s, with Diana Vreeland as editor-in-chief and personality, the magazine began to appeal to the youth of the sexual revolution by focusing more on contemporary fashion and editorial features openly discussing sexuality. Toward this end, Vogue extended coverage to include East Village boutiques such as Limbo on St. Mark's Place as well as featuring "downtown" personalities such as Warhol "Superstar" Jane Holzer's favorite haunts.[3] Vogue also continued making household names out of models, a practice that continued with Suzy Parker, Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Lauren Hutton, Veruschka, Marisa Berenson, Penelope Tree, and others.[4]
In 1973, Vogue became a monthly publication.[citation needed] Under editor-in-chief Grace Mirabella, the magazine underwent extensive editorial and stylistic changes to respond to changes in the lifestyles of its target audience.[5]
suggested edit below, biased
As of May 2013, the editor-in-chief of American Vogue is Anna Wintour,[6] noted for her trademark bob and sunglasses that she always wears indoors.[citation needed] Since taking over in July 1988,[6] Wintour has worked to protect the magazine's high status and reputation among fashion publications. To do so, the magazine became a pedestal focusing on new and accessible concepts of "fashion" for a wider audience.[7] This allowed Wintour to keep a high circulation while discovering new trends that a broader audience could conceivably afford.[7] For example, the inaugural cover of the magazine under Wintour's editorship featured a three-quarter-length photograph of Israeli super model Michaela Bercu wearing a bejeweled Christian Lacroix jacket and a pair of jeans, departing from her predecessors' tendency to portray a woman's face alone, which according to the Times', gave "greater importance to both her clothing and her body. This image also promoted a new form of chic by combining jeans with haute couture. Wintour's debut cover brokered a class-mass rapprochement that informs modern fashion to this day."[8] Wintour's Vogue also welcomes new and young talent.
suggested edit below, relate to vogue more than Wintour
Wintour's presence at fashion shows is often taken by fashion insiders as an indicator of the designer's profile within the industry. In 2003, she joined the Council of Fashion Designers of America in creating a fund that provides money and guidance to at least two emerging designers each year.[7] This has built loyalty among the emerging new star designers, and helped preserve the magazine's dominant position of influence through what Time called her own "considerable influence over American fashion. Runway shows don't start until she arrives. Designers succeed because she anoints them. Trends are created or crippled on her command."[7]
suggested edit below, delete
The contrast of Wintour's vision with that of her predecessor has been noted as striking by observers, both critics and defenders. Amanda Fortini, fashion and style contributor to Slate argues that her policy has been beneficial for Vogue:[9]
suggested edit below, incorporate to above paragraph where Wintour is first hired, explain editorial transition
When Wintour was appointed head of Vogue, Grace Mirabella had been editor in chief for 17 years, and the magazine had grown complacent, coasting along in what one journalist derisively called "its beige years". Beige was the color Mirabella had used to paint over the red walls in Diana Vreeland's office, and the metaphor was apt: The magazine had become boring. Among Condé Nast executives, there was worry that the grand dame of fashion publications was losing ground to upstart Elle, which in just three years had reached a paid circulation of 851,000 to Vogue 's stagnant 1.2 million. And so Condé Nast publisher Si Newhouse brought in the 38-year-old Wintour, who through editor-in-chief positions at British Vogue and House & Garden, had become known not only for her cutting-edge visual sense, but also for her ability to radically revamp a magazine to shake things up.
suggested edit below, discuss intro of healthy body initiative
May 2013 marked the one-year anniversary of a healthy body initiative that was signed by the magazine's international editors—the initiative represents a commitment from the editors to promote positive body images within the content of Vogue's numerous editions. Australian editor Edwina McCann explained:
In the magazine we're moving away from those very young, very thin girls. A year down the track, we ask ourselves what can Vogue do about it? And an issue like this [June 2013 issue] is what we can do about it. If I was aware of a girl being ill on a photo shoot I wouldn't allow that shoot to go ahead, or if a girl had an eating disorder I would not shoot her.[10]
The Australian edition's June issue is entitled the "Body Issue" and will feature articles on exercise and nutrition, as well as a diverse range of models. New York-based Australian plus-size model Robyn Lawley, who has previously featured on the cover of Vogue Italia, will also appear in a swimwear shoot for the June issue.[10]
Only four men have been featured on the cover of the magazine:[11][12][13]
- Richard Gere, with Cindy Crawford in November 1992;
- George Clooney, with Gisele Bündchen in June 2000;
- LeBron James, with Gisele Bündchen in April 2008; and
- Ryan Lochte, with Hope Solo and Serena Williams in June 2012.
Style and influence
[edit]
Vogue was described by book critic Caroline Weber in The New York Times in December 2006 as "the world's most influential fashion magazine":[8] The publication's international circulation has the ability to draw attention to inumerable topics; reaching over 1,000,000 readers in the US alone.[14] Further, the publication's influence is intwined with that of current editor-in-chief Anna Wintour who is arguably one of the most powerful figures in fashion.[15]
Technological
[edit]The recent growth in wearable technologies has created an industry which must effectively merge science and style. Google's Glasses are one such product which, despite their "technical prowess" cause owners to "feel incredibly self-conscious when wearing them in public".[16] As a result Google turned to Vogue's 2013 September issue in 2013, which featured a 12 page spread.
“The Vogue September issue has become a cultural touchstone ahead of New York’s Fashion Week,”said Chris Dale, who manages communications for the Glass team at Google. ”Seeing Glass represented so beautifully in this issue is a huge thrill for the entire Glass team.”[16]
Economic
[edit]Fashion Night, the brainchild of Wintour, was launched in 2009 with the intention of kick starting the economy following the Financial collapse of 2007–2008 by drawing people back to the retail environment. Proceeds go towards various charitable causes. The event is co-hosted by Vogue in 27 cities around the US and 15 countries worldwide, and included online retailers beginning in 2011.[17] There has been some debate as to the actual profitability of the event in the United States, resulting in a potentially permanent hiatus in 2013, though it continues its presence across 19 other locations internationally.[18]
Political
[edit]In 2006 Vogue acknowledged salient political and cultural issues by featuring the burqa, as well as articles on prominent Muslim women, their approach to fashion and the effect of different cultures on fashion and women’s lives.[19] In addition, Vogue sponsored the “Beauty Without Borders” initiative with a $25,000 donation, thereby establishing a cosmetology school to train Afghan women. Anna Wintour stated that “Through the school, we could not only help women in Afghanistan to look and feel better but also give them employment.” The school received criticism in the form of Liz Mermin’s documentary titled “The Beauty Academy of Kabul” which highlighted the proliferation of Western standards of beauty and suggested that “the beauty school could not be judged a success if it did not create a demand for American cosmetics.” [20]
Leading up to the 2012 US Presidential election Wintour took advantage of her industry clout to host several significant fundraising events in support of the Obama campaign. The first in 2010, was a dinner with an estimated $30,000 entry fee[21] as well as the "Runway To Win" initiative which recruited prominent designers to create pieces to support the campaign.[22]
Criticism
[edit]below: Can this be framed as more about vogue?
As Wintour came to personify the magazine's image, she and Vogue drew critics. Wintour's one-time assistant at the magazine, Lauren Weisberger, wrote a roman à clef entitled The Devil Wears Prada. Published in 2003, the novel became a bestseller and was adapted as a highly successful, Academy Award-nominated film in 2006. The central character resembled Weisberger, and her boss was a powerful editor-in-chief of a fictionalized version of Vogue. The novel portrays a magazine ruled by "the Antichrist and her coterie of fashionistas, who exist on cigarettes, Diet Dr. Pepper, and mixed green salads", according to a review in the New York Times. The editor is described by Weisberger as being "an empty, shallow, bitter woman who has tons and tons of gorgeous clothes and not much else".[23] The success of both the novel and the film brought new attention from a wide global audience to the power and glamour of the magazine, and the industry it continues to lead.[24]
In 2007, Vogue drew criticism from the anti-smoking group, "Campaign for Tobacco-Free Kids", for carrying tobacco advertisements in the magazine. The group claims that volunteers sent the magazine more than 8,000 protest emails or faxes regarding the ads. The group also claimed that in response, they received scribbled notes faxed back on letters that had been addressed to editor Anna Wintour stating, "Will you stop? You're killing trees!"[25]
A spokesperson for Condé Nast released an official statement stating that, "Vogue does carry tobacco advertising. Beyond that we have no further comment."[25]
In April 2008, the American Vogue had a cover shot by the famed photographer Annie Leibovitz, featuring the supermodel Gisele Bündchen and the basketball superstar LeBron James. This was the third time that Vogue featured a male on the cover of the American issue (the other two men were the actors George Clooney and Richard Gere), and the first in which the man was black. Some observers criticized the cover as a prejudicial depiction of James because his pose with Bündchen was reminiscent of a poster for the film King Kong.[26] Further criticism arose when the website Watching the Watchers analyzed the photo alongside the World War I recruitment poster titled Destroy This Mad Brute.[27] James reportedly however liked the cover shoot.
In February 2011, just before the 2011 Syrian protests unfolded, Vogue published a controversial piece by Joan Juliet Buck on Asma al-Assad, wife of the Syrian president Bashar al-Assad.[28] A number of journalists criticized the article as glossing over the poor human rights record of Bashar al-Assad.[29][30] It has been reported that the Syrian government paid the U.S. lobbying firm Brown Lloyd James $5,000 per month to arrange for and manage the article.[31][32]
Other editions
[edit]In 2005, Condé Nast launched Men's Vogue and announced plans for an American version of Vogue Living launching in late fall of 2006 (there is currently an edition in Australia). Men's Vogue ceased publication as an independent publication in October 2008 and is now a twice-yearly extract in the main edition.
Condé Nast also publishes Teen Vogue,[33] a version of the magazine for teen girls, the Seventeen demographic, in the United States. South Korea and Australia has a Vogue Girl magazine (currently suspended from further publication), in addition to Vogue Living and Vogue Entertaining + Travel.
Vogue Hommes International is an international men's fashion magazine based in Paris, France, and L'uomo Vogue is the Italian men's version.[34] Other Italian versions of Vogue include Vogue Casa and Bambini Vogue.
Until 1961, Vogue was also the publisher of Vogue Patterns, a home sewing pattern company. It was sold to Butterick Publishing which also licensed the Vogue name. Vogue China was launched in September 2005 with Australian supermodel Gemma Ward on the cover, flanked by Chinese models. In 2007 an Arabic edition of Vogue was rejected by Condé Nast International. October 2007 saw the launch of Vogue India, and Vogue Turkey was launched in March 2010.
On 5 March 2010, 16 International Editors-in-chief of Vogue met in Paris to discuss the 2nd Fashion's Night Out. Present in the meeting were the 16 International editors-in-chief of Vogue: Anna Wintour (American Vogue), Emmanuelle Alt (French Vogue), Franca Sozzani (Italian Vogue), Alexandra Shulman (British Vogue), Kirstie Clements (Australian Vogue), Aliona Doletskaya (Russian Vogue), Angelica Cheung (Chinese Vogue), Christiane Arp (German Vogue), Priya Tanna (Indian Vogue), Rosalie Huang (Taiwanese Vogue), Paula Mateus (Portuguese Vogue), Seda Domanic (Turkish Vogue), Yolanda Sacristan (Spanish Vogue), Eva Hughes (Mexican Vogue), Mitsuko Watanabe (Japanese Vogue), and Daniela Falcao (Brazilian Vogue).
It was the very first time where all the international editors-in-chief of Vogue come together, as it is very hard to put them in one room together. All of the International editors-in-chief of Vogue, except for Anna Wintour, then dined together at the famous Parisian restaurant, Prunier, hosted by Condé Nast International Chairman Jonathan Newhouse and his wife Ronnie Newhouse.[35]
Since 2010, 7 new editors-in-chief joined Vogue, First is Victoria Davydova, who replaced Aliona Doletskaya as editor-in-chief of Russian Vogue, Emmanuelle Alt who took over French Vogue as editor-in-chief after Carine Roitfeld resigned, followed by Edwina McCann who took over Australian Vogue as editor-in-chief after Kirstie Clements was unceremoniously fired, and Kelly Talamas replaced Eva Hughes at Vogue Mexico and Vogue Latin America when Hughes was named CEO of Condé Nast Mexico and Latin America in 2012. Then Karin Swerink, Kullawit Laosukrsi, and Masha Tsukanova were appointed editors-in-chief of newly launch Vogues Netherlands, Thailand, and Ukraine respectively.
Media
[edit]In 2009, the feature-length documentary The September Issue was released; it was an inside view of the production of the record-breaking September 2007 issue of U.S. Vogue, directed by R. J. Cutler. The film was shot over eight months as editor-in-chief Anna Wintour prepared the issue. It included at times testy exchanges between Wintour and her creative director Grace Coddington. The issue became the largest ever published; over 5 pounds in weight and 840 pages in length, a world record for a monthly magazine.[citation needed] Since then, that record has been broken by Vogue's 2012 September issue.
In September 2012 Vogue magazine has created an issue that is 915 pages long. This issue tops the September issue of 2007 in it being the largest VOGUE issue to date. It is unknown if a second September issue movie will be made.
Launched in 2011 by Condé Nast Digital, Voguepedia is a fashion encyclopedia that also includes an archive that consists of every issue of Vogue's American edition since 1892.[36] Only Vogue staff are permitted to contribute to the encyclopedia, unlike the VogueEncyclo—hosted by Vogue Italia—that receives contributions from anyone.[37] As of May 9, 2013, the site is not fully functional, as code still shows in search results and only certain search terms yield results.[38]
Edition Information
[edit]The following highlights circulation dates as well as individuals who have served as editor-in-chief of Vogue:
| Country | Circulation Dates | Editor-in-Chief | Start year | End year |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| United States | 1892–present | Josephine Redding | 1892 | 1901 |
| Marie Harrison | 1901 | 1914 | ||
| Edna Woolman Chase | 1914 | 1951 | ||
| Jessica Daves | 1952 | 1963 | ||
| Diana Vreeland | 1963 | 1971 | ||
| Grace Mirabella | 1971 | 1988 | ||
| Anna Wintour | 1988 | present | ||
| United Kingdom | 1920–present | Elspeth Champcommunal | 1916 | 1922 |
| Dorothy Todd | 1923 | 1926 | ||
| Alison Settle | 1926 | 1934 | ||
| Elizabeth Penrose | 1934 | 1940 | ||
| Audrey Withers | 1940 | 1961 | ||
| Ailsa Garland | 1961 | 1965 | ||
| Beatrix Miller | 1965 | 1984 | ||
| Anna Wintour | 1985 | 1987 | ||
| Liz Tilberis | 1988 | 1992 | ||
| Alexandra Shulman | 1992 | present | ||
| France | 1920–present | Cosette Vogel | 1922 | 1927 |
| Main Bocher | 1927 | 1929 | ||
| Michel de Brunhoff | 1929 | 1954 | ||
| Edmonde Charles-Roux | 1954 | 1966 | ||
| Fransçoise de Langlade | 1966 | 1968 | ||
| Francine Crescent | 1968 | 1987 | ||
| Colombe Pringle | 1987 | 1994 | ||
| Joan Juliet Buck | 1994 | 2001 | ||
| Carine Roitfeld | 2001 | 2010 | ||
| Emmanuelle Alt | 2011 | Present | ||
| Spain | 1921-1936, 1988–present | Yolanda Sacristán | 1983 | present |
| Italy | 1922-1941, 1964–Present | Franco Sartori | 1966 | 1988 |
| Franca Sozzani | 1988 | present | ||
| Germany | 1924-1941, 1979–present | Christine Arp | present | |
| Cuba | 1934-1961 | |||
| New Zealand | 1957-1968 | Sheila Scotter | 1957 | 1968 |
| Australia | 1959–present | Rosemary Cooper | 1959 | 1968 |
| Sheila Scotter | 1969 | |||
| June McCallum | ||||
| Nancy Pilcher | 1996 | |||
| Marion Hume | 1997 | 1998 | ||
| Juliet Ashworth | 1998 | 1999 | ||
| Kirstie Clements | 1999 | 2012 | ||
| Edwina McCann | 2012 | present | ||
| Brazil | 1975–present | Luiz Carta | 1975 | 1986 |
| Andrea Carta | 1986 | 2003 | ||
| Patricia Carta | 2003 | 2010 | ||
| Daniela Falcão | 2010 | present | ||
| Mexico & Latin America | 1980–present | Kelly Talamas | 2012 | present |
| Eva Hughes | 2000 | 2012 | ||
| South Korea | 1996–present | Myung Hee Lee | 1996 | present |
| Russia | 1998–present | Aliona Doletskaya | 1998 | 2010 |
| Victoria Davydova | 2010 | present | ||
| Argentina | 1993-2002 | |||
| Taiwan | 1996–present | Sky Wu | present | |
| Japan | 1999–present | Hiromi Sogo | 1999 | |
| Mitsuko Watanabe | present | |||
| Greece | 1999-2012 | Elena Makris | 1999 | 2012 |
| Portugal | 2002–present | |||
| China | 2005–present | Angelica Cheung | 2005 | present |
| India | 2007–present | Priya Tanna | 2007 | present |
| Turkey | 2010–present | Seda Domaniç | 2010 | present |
| Netherlands | 2012–present | Karin Swerink | 2012 | present |
| Thailand | 2013–present | Kullawit Laosuksri | 2013 | present |
| Ukraine | 2013–present | Masha Tsukanova | 2013 | present |
References
[edit]- ^ Penelope Rowlands (2008) A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters Simon and Schuster,2008
- ^ Fine Collins, Amy. "Vanity Fair: The Early Years, 1914–1936". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 18 July 2007.
- ^ Vogue (15 February 1968)
- ^ Dwight, Eleanor. "The Divine Mrs. V". New York. Retrieved 18 November 2007.
- ^ Mirabella, Grace (1995). "In and Out of Vogue". Doubleday.
- ^ a b "Vogue – Editor-in-chief Bio". Condé Nast. Condé Nast. May 2013. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: date and year (link) - ^ a b c d Orecklin, Michelle (9 February 2004). "The Power List: Women in Fashion, No. 3 Anna Wintour". Time magazine. Retrieved 29 January 2007.
- ^ a b Weber, Caroline (3 December 2006). "Fashion-Books: Review of "IN VOGUE: The Illustrated History of the World's Most Famous Fashion Magazine (Rizzoli)"". New York Times. Retrieved 28 January 2007.
- ^ Fortini, Amanda (10 February 2005). "Defending Vogue's Evil Genius: The Brilliance of Anna Wintour". Retrieved 29 January 2007.
- ^ a b GLYNIS TRAILL-NASH (17 May 2013). "Vogue eager to make an issue of 'real' women". The Australian. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
- ^ "Ryan Lochte Is the Fourth Man to Ever Cover Vogue - The Cut". Nymag.com. 2012-05-14. Retrieved 2013-06-04.
- ^ "LeBron becomes one of only three men to grace cover of Vogue - NBA - ESPN". Sports.espn.go.com. 2008-03-13. Retrieved 2013-06-04.
- ^ "Vogue Olympic Cover Featuring Hope Solo, Ryan Lochte, and Serena Williams (PHOTOS)". Global Grind. 2012-05-14. Retrieved 2013-06-04.
- ^ Vogue Press Kit, Conde Nast International, retrieved 6 October 2013
- ^ Harris, Paul (13 March 2013), "Anna Wintour cements influence as Condé Nast's new artistic director", The Guardian, retrieved 6 October 2013
- ^ a b Bilton, Nick (16 August 2013), "Trying to Make Google Glass Fashionable", New York Times, retrieved 6 October 2013
- ^ Garton, Christie. "Fashion's Night Out mobilized fashionistas worldwide for good". USA Today. Retrieved 13 May 2011.
- ^ Krupnick, Ellie (27 February 2013), Fashion's Night Out mobilized fashionistas worldwide for good., Huffington Post, retrieved 5 October 2013
- ^ McLarney, Ellen (1 January 2009). "The burqa in Vogue: Fashioning Afghanistan". Journal of Middle East Women's Studies. Vol. 5, no. 1. pp. 1–23.
{{cite news}}: Unknown parameter|month=ignored (help) - ^ Bose, Purnima (September–October 2009), publisher=Solidarity A Cosmetic Cover for Occupation., retrieved 6 October 2013
{{citation}}: Check|url=value (help); Missing pipe in:|url=(help) - ^ Anna Wintour & Barack Obama Dinner: Vogue Editor's Fundraiser Has $30,000 Entry Fee, Huffington Post, 28 July 2010, retrieved 6 October 2013
- ^ Cowles, Charlotte (1 February 2012), Anna Wintour in Top Tier of Obama's Fund-raising 'Bundlers', New York Magazine, retrieved 6 October 2013
- ^ Betts, Kate (13 April 2003). "Anna Dearest". New York Times. Retrieved 29 January 2007.
- ^ Wilson, Eric (28 December 2006). "The Devil Likes Attention". New York Times. Retrieved 29 January 2007.
- ^ a b Noveck, Jocelyn (30 May 2007). "Fashion Mags Anger Some With Tobacco Ads". San Francisco Chronicle. Associated press. Archived from the original on 31 May 2007. Retrieved 18 November 2007.
- ^ K. Scott, Megan (24 March 2008). "LeBron James' 'Vogue' cover called racially insensitive". USA TODAY. Associated Press. Retrieved 31 March 2008.
- ^ Cadenhead, Rogers (28 March 2008). "Annie Leibovitz Monkeys Around with LeBron James". Retrieved 30 December 2009.
- ^ Buck, Joan Juliet. "Asma al-Assad: A Rose in the Desert". Vogue. Retrieved 4 April 2011.
- ^ Malone, Noreen. "The Middle East's Marie Antoinettes". Slate. Retrieved 4 April 2011.
- ^ Freeland, Chrystia (17 March 2011). "The Balance of Charm and Reality". The New York Times. Retrieved 4 April 2011.
- ^ Fisher, Max (3 January 2012). "The Only Remaining Online Copy of Vogue's Asma al-Assad Profile". The Atlantic. Retrieved 5 January 2012.
- ^ Bogardus, Kevin (3 August 2011). "PR firm worked with Syria on controversial photo shoot". The Atlantic. Retrieved 5 January 2012.
- ^ Teen Vogue Website
- ^ Website and Subscription for Vogue Hommes International
- ^ Source needed
- ^ Danica Lo (May 9, 2011) Voguepedia Soft Launches Racked
- ^ "Main Page". Voguepedia. Conde Naste. May 2013. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: date and year (link) - ^ MISTY WHITE SIDELL (9). "119 Years of Vogue, Now Available on 'Voguepedia'". Fashionista. Breaking Media. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
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