Vera Komarkova

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Vera Komarkova
Scan Pic0013.jpg
Personal information
Nationality American, Czech
Born (1942-12-25)25 December 1942
Písek, Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia
(now Czech Republic)
Died 25 May 2005(2005-05-25) (aged 62)
Leysin, Switzerland
Education Univerzita Karlova
University of Colorado
Climbing career
Type of climber Mountaineering
Known for First female ascent of Annapurna and Cho Oyu
Updated on 20 September 2017.

Vera Komarkova (Czech: Věra Komárková) (25 December 1942 - 25 May 2005) was a mountaineer and botanist who is most famous for being the first woman to summit Annapurna. To raise funds for the 1978 expedition, the team sold T-shirts with the slogan "A woman's place is on top". The T-shirts sales raised $60,000, which was over 75% of the estimated costs of the expedition.[1][2][3][4][5]

In the 1970s, Komarkova moved to Boulder, Colorado, and earned a PhD in plant ecology.[6]

List of climbs[edit]

Year Peak
1960 - 1969 High Tatras, Carpathians,

-winter: 26 ascents, 3-day traverse of 10 summits -summer: 49 ascents 3-day traverse of 12 summits

Many Rock Climbs in the sandstone regions of Czechoslovakia and Germany.

1965 Alps: Wallis, Matterhorn, Hörnligrat; Ötztal, Wildspitze; Wetterstein, Sonnenspitze, S ridge
1967 Alps: Mt. Blanc group: Petit Dru, normal route; Mt. Blanc from Col Tricot
1968 Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Crestone Needle, NE Ridge

Mexico, Huasteca Canyon, Pico Pirineos, E face

Mexico, Ixtaccihuatl, Inescalables, Ruta del Sol

Mt. Blanc Group, Tour Ronde, normal route; Wallis, Breithorn, N face

1971 Yosemite Valley: Lower Brother, SW face and other short climbs

Rocky Mountain National Park: Hallet's Peak, Jackson-Johnson; Mt. Ypsilon, The Y Couloir

Hallet's peak, first Buttress (winter)

Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, Naked Edge; many other rock climbs around Boulder since

1972 Rocky Mountain National Park; Long's Peak, Kiener's Route

(February); Hallet's Peak, Northcutt-Carter; Sharkstooth, N face

1974 Yosemite Valley: Royal Arches, Snake Dike, other short climbs

Rocky Mountain National Park: Hallet's Peak, Love route; Notchtop

Winter Climbs in Colorado Rocky Mountains

1975 Colorado Rocky Mountains: Pacific Peak, E ridge, North Arapaho

Peak (winter)

Brooks Range, Alasca: Mt. Doonerak, Falsoola Mt. Eeykaruk Mt.

1976 Alasca Range, Mt. Mc. Kinley, S Buttress
1977 Alasca Range, Mt. Dickey, new route on SE face
1978 Nepal Himalaya, Annapurna, N face, Dutch Rib
1980 Nepal Himalaya, Dhaulagiri I, Pear Route attempt
1984 Nepal Himalaya, Cho-Oyu

Death[edit]

Komarkova died on May 25, 2005 at her home in Leysin, Switzerland of complications of breast cancer treatment.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Monica Potts (26 June 2005). "Vera Komarkova, Mountaineer, Dies at 62". New York Times. Retrieved 13 March 2012. 
  2. ^ A. Ceska, ed. (18 August 2005). "Botanical Electronic News" (350). Victoria, B.C. ISSN 1188-603X. Retrieved 13 March 2013. 
  3. ^ Brendan Leonard (13 March 2013). "Historical Badass: Climber Vera Komarkova". Adventure Journal. Retrieved 13 March 2013. 
  4. ^ "Vera Komarkova". The Times. 21 June 2005. Retrieved 13 March 2013. 
  5. ^ American Alpine Club. The American Alpine Journal. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 9781933056326. 
  6. ^ Stephen Goodwin (15 June 2005). "Vera Komarkova: Pioneer of women's mountaineering". Independent. Retrieved 13 March 2013.