Vera Komarkova

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Vera Komarkova
Personal information
Nationality American
Born (1942-12-25)25 December 1942
Písek, Czechoslovakia
Died 25 May 2005(2005-05-25) (aged 62)
Leysin, Switzerland
Climbing career
Type of climber Mountaineering
Known for First female ascent of Annapurna and Cho Oyu
Updated on 20 September 2017.

Vera Komarkova (Czech: Věra Komárková) (25 December 1942 - 25 May 2005) was a mountaineer and botanist who is most famous for being the first woman to summit Annapurna. To raise funds for the 1978 expedition, the team sold T-shirts with the slogan "A woman's place is on top". The T-shirts sales raised $60,000, which was over 75% of the estimated costs of the expedition.[1][2][3][4][5]

In the 1970s, Komarkova moved to Boulder, Colorado, and earned a PhD in plant ecology.[6]

List of climbs[edit]

Year Peak
1960 - 1969 High Tatras, Carpathians,

-winter: 26 ascents, 3-day traverse of 10 summits -summer: 49 ascents 3-day traverse of 12 summits

Many Rock Climbs in the sandstone regions of Czechoslovakia and Germany.

1965 Alps: Wallis, Matterhorn, Hörnligrat; Ötztal, Wildspitze; Wetterstein, Sonnenspitze, S ridge
1967 Alps: Mt. Blanc group: Petit Dru, normal route; Mt. Blanc from Col Tricot
1968 Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Crestone Needle, NE Ridge

Mexico, Huasteca Canyon, Pico Pirineos, E face

Mexico, Ixtaccihuatl, Inescalables, Ruta del Sol

Mt. Blanc Group, Tour Ronde, normal route; Wallis, Breithorn, N face

1971 Yosemite Valley: Lower Brother, SW face and other short climbs

Rocky Mountain National Park: Hallet's Peak, Jackson-Johnson; Mt. Ypsilon, The Y Couloir

Hallet's peak, first Buttress (winter)

Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, Naked Edge; many other rock climbs around Boulder since

1972 Rocky Mountain National Park; Long's Peak, Kiener's Route

(February); Hallet's Peak, Northcutt-Carter; Sharkstooth, N face

1974 Yosemite Valley: Royal Arches, Snake Dike, other short climbs

Rocky Mountain National Park: Hallet's Peak, Love route; Notchtop

Winter Climbs in Colorado Rocky Mountains

1975 Colorado Rocky Mountains: Pacific Peak, E ridge, North Arapaho

Peak (winter)

Brooks Range, Alasca: Mt. Doonerak, Falsoola Mt. Eeykaruk Mt.

1976 Alasca Range, Mt. Mc. Kinley, S Buttress
1977 Alasca Range, Mt. Dickey, new route on SE face
1978 Nepal Himalaya, Annapurna, N face, Dutch Rib
1980 Nepal Himalaya, Dhaulagiri I, Pear Route attempt
1984 Nepal Himalaya, Cho-Oyu

Death[edit]

Komarkova died on May 25, 2005 at her home in Leysin, Switzerland of complications of breast cancer treatment.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Monica Potts (26 June 2005). "Vera Komarkova, Mountaineer, Dies at 62". New York Times. Retrieved 13 March 2012. 
  2. ^ A. Ceska, ed. (18 August 2005). "Botanical Electronic News" (350). Victoria, B.C. ISSN 1188-603X. Retrieved 13 March 2013. 
  3. ^ Brendan Leonard (13 March 2013). "Historical Badass: Climber Vera Komarkova". Adventure Journal. Retrieved 13 March 2013. 
  4. ^ "Vera Komarkova". The Times. 21 June 2005. Retrieved 13 March 2013. 
  5. ^ American Alpine Club. The American Alpine Journal. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 9781933056326. 
  6. ^ Stephen Goodwin (15 June 2005). "Vera Komarkova: Pioneer of women's mountaineering". Independent. Retrieved 13 March 2013.