Rimo I

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Rimo I
Rimo I is located in Tibetan Plateau
Rimo I
Rimo I
Location in Kashmir
Elevation 7,385 m (24,229 ft)
Ranked 71st
Prominence 1,438 m (4,718 ft)
Location
Location Siachen area of Kashmir, disputed between India and Pakistan[1]
Range Rimo Muztagh, Karakoram
Coordinates 35°21′21″N 77°22′05″E / 35.35583°N 77.36806°E / 35.35583; 77.36806Coordinates: 35°21′21″N 77°22′05″E / 35.35583°N 77.36806°E / 35.35583; 77.36806
Climbing
First ascent July 28, 1988 by Nima Dorje Sherpa, Tsewang Samanla (India); Yoshio Ogata, Hideki Yoshida (Japan)
Easiest route South Face/Southwest Ridge

Rimo I is the main summit of the Rimo massif with an elevation of 7,385 metres (24,229 ft). It lies in the northern part of the remote Rimo Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It is located about 20 km northeast of the snout of the Siachen Glacier and is the world's 71st highest mountain. Rimo means "striped mountain" (AAJ 1986:266). The Rimo Glacier, originating here, drains to the Shyok river.

Due to its remote location in the heart of the eastern Karakoram, Rimo was little-known and almost entirely unvisited until the twentieth century. Explorers Filippo de Filippi and Philip and Jenny Visser visited the area in 1914 and 1929 respectively. Adding to its isolation is the unsettled political and military situation between India and Pakistan in the region, especially on the nearby Siachen Glacier. This means that India rigidly controls access to the massif.

Rimo massif[edit]

The Rimo massif consists of six peaks sharing the Rimo name. In addition to Rimo I, they are:

Peak name Elevation m (ft) Prominence m (ft) Coordinates
Rimo II[2] 7,373 m (24,190 ft) 73 m (240 ft) 35°21′N 77°22′E / 35.350°N 77.367°E / 35.350; 77.367 (Rimo II)
Rimo III[3] 7,233 m (23,730 ft) 615 m (2,018 ft) 35°22′31″N 77°21′42″E / 35.37528°N 77.36167°E / 35.37528; 77.36167 (Rimo II)
Rimo IV[4] 7,169 m (23,520 ft) 329 m (1,079 ft) 35°23′N 77°23′E / 35.383°N 77.383°E / 35.383; 77.383 (Rimo IV)
Rimo V[5] 6,882 m (22,579 ft) 262 m (860 ft) 35°24′N 77°23′E / 35.400°N 77.383°E / 35.400; 77.383 (Rimo V)
Rimo VI[6] 6,846 m (22,461 ft) 446 m (1,463 ft) 35°25′N 77°23′E / 35.417°N 77.383°E / 35.417; 77.383 (Rimo VI)

Rimo II is a minor subpeak located about 150 meters northeast of Rimo I, on its north ridge. The others are more independent peaks further north. Rimo III is the 98th highest mountain in the world (Rimo II is unranked, lacking sufficient prominence).

The massif heads the large Central Rimo Glacier (on the north side) and South Rimo Glacier (on the east side), as well as the smaller North Terong Glacier (on the west side).

Climbing history[edit]

The first attempts on the Rimo massif were in 1978, by a Japanese expedition which had little success, in 1984 (first ascent of Rimo IV, by an Indian army expedition) and in 1985, by a well-organized Indian/British expedition led by famed Himalayan expert Harish Kapadia. That expedition climbed Rimo III (Dave Wilkinson and Jim Fotheringham were the summit party) but did not succeed on Rimo I.

The first, and so far only, ascent of Rimo I was made in 1988 by an Indian/Japanese team led by Hukam Singh and Yoshio Ogata. They climbed the south face to the southwest ridge, starting from a significant pass called Ibex Col on the south side of the mountain. The ascent involved 1500m of significantly technical climbing.

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^ India is in de facto control of this region of Kashmir; the region is claimed by Pakistan. See e.g. The Future of Kashmir on the BBC website.
  2. ^ "Rimo II, Pakistan". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2014-08-07. 
  3. ^ "Rimo III, Pakistan". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2014-08-07. 
  4. ^ "Rimo IV, Pakistan". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2014-08-07. 
  5. ^ "Rimo V, Pakistan". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2014-08-07. 
  6. ^ "Rimo VI, Pakistan". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2014-08-07. 

References[edit]

  • American Alpine Journal (AAJ) 1986, p. 266.
  • Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich, 1990.
  • Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995.