Kimono

A traditional wedding kimono

Japanese woman in a kimono, circa 1870

A young kimono wearer; note the footwear.

Modern-day kimono use—women catching a train

Women in furisode kimonos dressed as maiko (apprentice geisha)

The Kimono (着物, literally "something worn", i.e., "clothes") is the national costume of Japan. Originally kimono indicated all types of clothing, but it has come to mean specifically the full-length traditional garment worn by women, men, and children. Kimonos are T-shaped, straight-lined robes that fall to the ankle, with collars and full-length sleeves. The sleeves are commonly very wide at the wrist, as much as a half meter. Traditionally, unmarried women wear kimonos (furisode) with floor length sleeves on special occasions. The robe is wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right (it is only wrapped with the right side over the left when dressing the deceased for burial) and secured by a wide belt (obi) tied in the back. Kimonos are generally worn with traditional footwear (especially geta, thonged wood-platform footwear; and zori, a type of thong-like footwear) and split-toe socks (tabi).

History and description

The earliest kimonos were heavily influenced by traditional Chinese clothing called hanfu through extensive cultural exchanges between China and Yamato period Japan beginning in the fifth century ce. However, kimonos have been greatly modified throughout Japan’s history, and many Chinese aspects were altered to reflect indigenous tastes and conditions more closely. The direct forerunners of the modern kimono began to take shape during Japan's Heian period (794–1192 ce). Since then, the basic shape of both men’s and women’s kimonos has remained essentially unchanged, through modified several times during Japan’s period of isolation.

Despite popular thought, kimonos are not a one size garment. They come in various lengths and widths. Kimonos are often made to fit one wearer. An ideally-tailored kimono has sleeves that end at the wrist when the arms are lowered. The kimono should be the same length as the wearer's height to allow for the Ohashori, or the tuck that can be seen under the obi. The Ohashori is created to pull down the back of the kimono so that the collar does not sit against the neck. Kimonos are made from a single bolt of fabric. Bolts come in standard dimensions, and the entire fabric piece is used to make the kimono. Traditional kimonos are sewn by hand, and their fabrics are also frequently hand made and hand decorated. Various techniques such as yūzen dye resist are used for applying decoration and patterns to the base cloth. Repeating patterns that cover a large area of a kimono are traditionally done with the yūzen resist technique and a stencil. Over time there have been many variations in color, fabric and style, as well as accessories such as the obi.

In the past, a kimono would often be entirely taken apart for washing, and then re-sewn for wearing. Modern fabrics and cleaning methods have been developed that eliminate this need, although the traditional washing of kimonos is still practiced. Long, loose basting stitches are sometimes placed around the outside edges of the kimono for storage. They help to prevent bunching, folding and wrinkling, and keep the kimono's layers in alignment.

Mythical and historical origins of kimono textiles

Since ancient times, textiles have been revered in Japan. According to Japanese mythology, when the angry sun goddess Amaterasu plunged the world into darkness by hiding in a cave, other divinities enticed her out with a dance that included richly woven blue and white banners. Textiles play an important role in Japan’s centuries-old tradition of handicrafts. Japanese techniques of weaving and dyeing originated in Korea and China. In the eighth century, tribute between Japan and these neighboring countries was presented in bolts of silk and brocade. Over the centuries, the Japanese studied those textile offerings and began producing their own.

How kimonos are made

As the traditional textiles of Japan were made primarily for personal attire, specifications for the kimono determined the construction of fabric weaves and patterns and the width of the cloth itself. A single bolt, or tan, of cloth measures about 9 meters by 30 centimeters. This is sufficient to make one kimono, whether for a man or a woman, regardless of height and weight. Thus kimono fabrics are sold by the bolt and rarely by the meter.

Patterns

The kimono pattern consists of four main strips of fabric. Two patterns form the panels covering the body and two panels form the sleeves, with additional smaller strips forming the narrow front panel and collar.

Customarily, woven patterns and dyed repeat patterns are considered informal. Formal kimonos have free-style designs dyed over the whole surface or along the hem. Originally kimonos were worn with up to a dozen or more colorful contrasting layers. Today, the kimono is normally worn with a single layer on top of a slip style undergarment.

Parts of kimono patterns

• Doura: upper lining
• Eri: collar
• Fuki: hem guard
• Furi: sleeve below the armhole
• Maemigoro: front main panel
• Miyatsukuchi: opening under the sleeve
• Okumi: front inside panel
• Sode: sleeve
• Sodeguchi: sleeve opening
• Sodetsuke: kimono armhole
• Susomawashi: lower lining
• Tamoto: sleeve pouch
• Tomoeri: over collar
• Uraeri: inner collar
• Ushiromigoro: back main section
• Yuki: sleeve length

Changes in textiles used in kimonos

The formal kimono and obi belts were traditionally made of silk, silk brocade, silk crepes (such as chirimen) and satin weaves (such as rinzu). Due to production costs and limited availability of skilled weavers and craftsman, the kimono industry is changing to reflect consumer demand for less-expensive easy-care kimonos. Today, most formal kimonos are made of rayon, cotton sateen, cotton, polyester and other synthetic fibers except for the traditional wedding kimono.

Cleaning Kimonos

Kimonos need to be aired out at least seasonally and after every time worn. For cleaning, juban can be hand washed and air dried, but it is more difficult to clean a silk kimono. Many people prefer to have their kimonos dry cleaned, but kimonos with metallic paint detailing should only be lightly steamed to remove any wrinkles. To remove mud or soil, kimonos should first be air dried and then “peel” off any excess material before using a damp cotton cloth to blot the stain away. To remove stains from a shibori or heavily dyed area, place a clean dry cotton towel behind the fabric and blot the stain from the outside with a q-tip or other cotton swab. Soap without bleach or coloring (such as dish soap) cleans well, but detergents and stain treatments often result in a faint “water-mark”. Kimonos should be completely dry before storing. Many kimono are damaged by “bleeding” of patterns/dyes. Any oil based stains (such as around the neck of from hands) need to be absorbed before cleaning, such as with rice paper or non-powdered oil blotter papers. Kimonos must be cleaned in the direction of the fabric. Wax stains on silk kimonos are removed by letting the wax dry, peeling off excess wax, and then patting over the area with a damp cool cotton cloth, and upon drying completely, placing a paper towel under the kimono panel and over the “stain” and ironing on the lowest setting.

Kimono styles

The styles of kimono range from extremely formal to very casual. The level of formality of women's kimonos is determined mostly by the pattern and fabric, and also the color. Young women's kimonos have longer sleeves and tend to be more elaborate than similarly formal older women's kimonos. Men's kimonos are usually one basic shape and are mainly worn in subdued colors. Formality is also determined by the type and color of accessories, the fabric, and the number or absence of kamon (family crests). Silk is the most desirable, and most formal, fabric. Kimonos made of fabrics such as cotton and polyester generally reflect a more casual style.

Today, both men's and women's kimonos are increasingly available in different sizes. Since kimonos are traditionally made from a single bolt of cloth, larger sizes are difficult to find and very expensive to order. Very tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, have kimonos custom-made.

Kimonos can be expensive. A woman's kimono may easily exceed US$10,000; a complete kimono outfit, with kimono, undergarments, obi, ties, socks, sandals and accessories, can exceed US$20,000. A single obi may cost several thousand dollars. However, most kimonos owned by kimono hobbyists or by practitioners of traditional arts are far less expensive. Enterprising people make their own kimonos and undergarments by following a standard pattern, or recycle older kimonos. Cheaper and machine-made fabrics can substitute for the traditional hand-dyed silk. There is also a thriving business in Japan for second-hand kimonos, which can cost as little as ¥500. Women's obis, however, mostly remain an expensive item. Although simple patterned or plain colored ones can cost as low as ¥1,500, they can cost hundreds of dollars, and require experienced craftsmanship to make them. Men's obis, even those made from silk, tend to be much less expensive, because they are narrower and shorter than those worn by women.

Old kimonos are often recycled in various ways: altered to make haori, hiyoku, or kimonos for children, used to patch similar kimonos, used for making handbags and similar kimono accessories, and used to make covers, bags or cases for various implements, especially for sweet-picks used in tea ceremonies. Kimonos with damage below the waistline can also be worn under hakama to hide the damage. Historically, skilled craftsmen laboriously picked the silk thread from old kimonos and rewove it into a new textile in the width of a heku obi for men's kimonos, using a recycling weaving method called Saki-Ori.

Today, kimonos are usually worn by women on special occasions. A few older women and even fewer men still wear kimonos on a daily basis. Men wear kimonos most often at weddings and for tea ceremonies. Kimonos are also worn by both men and women in certain sports, such as kendo. Professional sumo wrestlers frequently wear kimonos because they are required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever appearing in public outside the ring.

Kimono hobbyists in Japan can take courses on how to put on and wear kimonos. Classes cover selecting seasonally and event-appropriate patterns and fabrics, matching the kimono undergarments and accessories to the kimono, layering the undergarments according to subtle meanings, selecting and tying obi, and other topics. There are also clubs devoted to kimono culture, such as Kimono de Ginza.

Women's kimonos

Modern kimonos are not the elaborate affairs they used to be . Kimonos worn for festivals and other informal events can be only two layers, or one with a false under collar and a slip. These informal kimonos are worn with a simple patterned or single colored obi. Full formal kimonos are most often only worn by brides, geisha, or hostesses, or for very formal events.

Since the typical traditional woman's kimono contains twelve or more separate pieces that are worn, matched and secured in prescribed ways, the assistance of licensed professional kimono dressers is often required. Called upon mostly for special occasions, kimono dressers both work out of hair salons and make house calls.

Choosing an appropriate type of kimono requires knowledge of the garment's symbolism and subtle social messages, reflecting the woman's age, marital status, and the level of formality of the occasion.

Styles

• Kurotomesode (黒留袖): a black kimono patterned only below the waistline, kurotomesode are the most formal kimonos for married women. They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at a wedding. Kurotomesode usually have five kamon printed on the sleeves, chest and back of the kimonos.
• Furisode (振袖): furisode literally translates as swinging sleeves—the sleeves of furisode average between 39 and 42 inches in length. Furisode are the most formal kimonos for unmarried women, with patterns that cover the entire garment. They are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies (Seijin Shiki) and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions.
• Irotomesode (色留袖): a single-color kimono, patterned only below the waistline. Irotomesode are slightly less formal than kurotomesode, and are worn by married women, usually close relatives of the bride and groom at a wedding. An irotomesode may have three or five kamon.
• Hōmongi (訪問着): literally translates as visiting wear. Characterized by patterns that flow over the shoulders, seams and sleeves, hōmongi rank slightly higher than their close relative, the tsukesage. Hōmongi may be worn by both married and unmarried women; often friends of the bride will wear hōmongi at weddings and receptions. They may also be worn to formal parties.
• Tsukesage (付け下げ): a tsukesage has more modest patterns that cover less area—mainly below the waist—than the more formal hōmongi. They may also be worn by married women.
• Iromuji (色無地): single-colored kimonos that may be worn by married and unmarried women. They are mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may be figured (rinzu, similar to jacquard), but has no differently colored patterns.
• Komon (小紋): fine pattern in English. Kimonos with a small, repeated pattern throughout the garment. This style is somewhat casual and may be worn around town, or dressed up with an obi for a restaurant. Both married and unmarried women may wear komon.
  • Edo Komon (江戸小紋): Edo komon is a type of komon characterized by tiny dots arranged in dense patterns that form larger designs. The Edo komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. A kimono with this type of pattern is of the same formality as an iromuji, and when decorated with kamon, may be worn as visiting wear (equivalent to a tsukesage or hōmongi).

The pattern of the kimono can also determine in what season it should be worn. For example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms would be worn in spring. Watery designs are common during the summer. A popular autumn motif is the russet leaf of the Japanese maple; for winter, designs may include bamboo, pine trees and ume blossoms.

Men's kimonos

Jimmy Wales in a kimono (Kyoto, 2007)

In contrast to the woman's garment, men's kimono outfits are far simpler, typically consisting of a maximum of five pieces, not including socks and sandals.

Men's kimonos have sleeves which are attached to the body of the kimono with no more than a few inches unattached at the bottom, unlike the women's style of very deep sleeves mostly unattached from the body of the kimono. Men's sleeves are less deep than women's kimono sleeves to accommodate the obi around the waist beneath them, whereas on a woman's kimono, the long, unattached bottom of the sleeve can hang over the obi without getting in the way. In the modern era, the principal distinctions between men's kimonos are in the fabric. The typical kimono has a subdued, dark color; black, dark blues and greens, and occasionally browns are common. Fabrics are usually matte. Some have a subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are common in more casual kimonos. More casual kimonos may be of slightly brighter color, such as lighter purples, greens and blues. Sumo wrestlers have occasionally been known to wear quite bright colors such as fuchsia.

The most formal style of kimono is plain black with five kamon on the chest, shoulders and back. Slightly less formal is the three-kamon kimono. These are usually paired with white undergarments and accessories.

Almost any kimono outfit can be made more formal by adding hakama and haori (see below).

Kimono accessories and related garments

• Nagajuban (長襦袢) or simply juban is a second, shorter kimono is worn beneath the main outer garment. It is worn as underwear, complete with long sleeves fitted inside the outer kimono's sleeves. Since silk kimonos are delicate and difficult to clean, the nagajuban helps keep the outer kimono clean by preventing contact with the wearer's skin. Only the collar edge of the nagajuban shows from beneath the outer kimono. Many nagajuban have removable collars, to allow them to be changed and easily washed, without washing the entire garment. Nagajuban are often as beautifully ornate and patterned as the outer kimono. They are considered "hidden smartness" (粋 iki). Men's kimonos are usually fairly subdued in pattern and color, and the nagajuban allows for discreetly wearing very striking designs and colors. Men's nagajuban sometimes incorporate designs referring to samurai, such as kabuto (helmets), or dragons, scenery (especially Mount Fuji scenes), auspicious animals, and appropriate text.
• Hadajuban (肌襦袢) is a thin garment similar to an undershirt. It is worn under the nagajuban.
• Susoyoke (裾除け) is a thin petticoat-like garment worn under the nagajuban. Sometimes the susoyoke and hadajuban are combined into a one-piece garment.
• Geta (下駄) are wooden sandals worn by men and women with yukata. One unique style is worn solely by geisha.
• Hakama (袴) is a divided or undivided skirt which resembles a wide pair of pants, traditionally worn by men but now also by women in less formal outfits, and is also worn in certain martial arts such as aikido. A hakama typically has pleats, a koshiita (a stiff or padded part in the lower back of the wearer), and himo (long lengths of fabric tied around the waist over the obi, described below). Hakama are worn in several budo arts such as aikido, kendo, iaidō and naginata. Hakama are also worn by women at college graduation ceremonies. They can range from very formal to visiting wear, depending on pattern.
• Haori (羽織) is a hip- or thigh-length kimono coat which adds formality. Haori were originally reserved for men, until fashions changed at the end of the Meiji period. They are now worn by both men and women, though women's kimono jackets tend to be longer.
• Haori-himo (羽織紐) is a tasseled, woven string fastener for the haori. The most formal color is white.
• Jūnihitoe (十二単) is a twelve-layered-robe worn in ancient times by women at court. Currently, they are only worn during most formal occasions at court (such as imperial weddings and enthronement ceremonies), and can be seen in museums.
• Hiyoku (ひよく) is a type of under-kimono, historically worn by women beneath the kimono. Today they are only worn on formal occasions such as weddings and other important social events.
• Kanzashi (簪) are hair ornaments worn in the coiffured hair style that often accompanies kimonos. These may take the form of silk flowers, wooden combs, and jade hairpins.
• Obi (帯) is a Japanese sash or belt that wraps around a kimono or yukata. Obi are worn in a style appropriate for the specific occasion, and are usually more intricate for women.
• Obi-ita (帯板) is a thin, fabric-covered board placed under the obi to keep its shape. It is also called mae-ita.
• Datejime (伊達締め) is a thin, stiff sash worn under the obi to keep its shape.
• Koshi himo (腰紐) are thin sashes tied to keep the kimono in place while getting dressed.
• Tabi (足袋) are ankle-high, divided-toe socks usually worn with zori. They also come in a boot form.
• Waraji (草鞋) are straw rope sandals which are mostly worn by monks.
• Yukata (浴衣) is an informal unlined summer kimono usually made of cotton, linen, or hemp. Yukata are most often worn to outdoor festivals, by men and women of all ages. They are also worn at onsen (hot spring) resorts, where they are often provided for the guests in the resort's own pattern.
• Zōri (草履) are cloth, leather or grass-woven sandals. Zori may be highly decorated with intricate stitching or with no decoration. They are worn by both men and women. Grass woven zori with white straps are the most formal for men. They are similar in design to flip-flops.

External links

• Tokyo National Museum Look for "textiles" under "decorative arts".
• Kyoto National Museum: Textiles
• The Costume Museum: Costume History in Japan
• Kimono Fraise; includes directions on how to put on a kimono
• What Japan Thinks; Kimono wearing and ownership A translation of a survey into contemporary views on kimonos
• Traditional Crafts of Japan: Follow the links titled Weaving, Dyeing, Other Fiber Crafts, Craft Materials