Plus-size model

A plus size model Toccara Jones at the BET Hip Hop Awards in Atlanta.

Plus-size model is a term applied to a person who is engaged primarily in modeling plus-size clothing. Plus-size models also engaged in work that is not strictly related to selling large-sized clothing, e.g., stock photography and advertising photography for cosmetics, household and pharmaceutical products and sunglasses, footwear and watches. Therefore plus-size models do not exclusively wear garments marketed as plus-size clothing. This is especially true when participating in fashion editorials for mainstream fashion magazines.

The requirements for female plus-size models are no different from those of other models, except for larger bust-waist-hip measurements; the minimum acceptable height is generally no shorter than 5'9"/175.3 cm and they must have clear skin, good bone structure and a well-proportioned body. While there are a small number of male plus-size models represented by agents, there are no clear height and size requirements.

The type of work that plus-size models engage in is of comparable variety to that of their smaller-sized counterparts. Advertising campaigns, magazine editorials, catwalk work, garment fit modeling, and live and pre-recorded TV presentations and commercials comprise much of work available. Increasingly, female plus-size models are also being utilized by the media to stimulate debate on healthy self-esteem and body image, especially regarding struggles with eating disorders.

Synonymous and interchangeable with plus-size model is "full-figured model," "extended-sizes model," and "outsize model" (which is used primarily in the United Kingdom).

The business

Fashion designers are starting to look more closely at the earning potential from plus-size clothing, and have used plus-size models for their advertising campaigns and catwalks. Jean-Paul Gaultier and John Galliano both used plus-size models in their Spring 2006 showings in Paris. Italian plus-size fashion house Elena Mirò now regularly stages biannual prêt-à-porter shows during Fashion Week in Milan. Mark Fastand William Tempest each used plus-size models during their own London Fashion Week showings for Spring 2009, and again as part of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk event held on September 19, 2009 in association with the British Fashion Council.

Development of the industry in the United States

Although U.S.-based manufacturers used larger models to show their plus-size clothing as early as the 1940s, the bias against larger consumers and models pervasive in the fashion industry worked to keep this particular concept of modeling out of the general public's eye until the early 1990s.

Lane Bryant began trading in the early 1920s as a producer of clothing for 'Expectant Mothers and Newborns'. By the mid-1920s, Lane Bryant started selling clothing under the category 'For the Stout Women', which ranged between a 38-56 inch bustline. The earliest catalogs used illustrations to sell their products, but by the mid-1940s photographs were integrated into the catalogs as the evolution of printing technology made this option available. After a hiatus through the 1960-1970 period, Lane Bryant again began using plus-size models.

In 1979 'Big Beautiful Woman magazine (more commonly known via the acronym BBW) began publication and was one of the first publications in the US catering specifically to plus-size clothing consumers. It ceased publication in 1995, but the "BBW" brand was sold onwards and although it was resurrected in print via several different editor and publisher combinations it continued to falter, finally ceasing print publication most recently in the late 1990s. BBW is now an online community surrounding archived material from the magazine.

With strong cooperation from Wilhelmina 10/20, Curves and Ford 12+ agencies, MODE Magazine was launched in the spring of 1997. No other fashion magazine specifically targeted the plus-size consumer with a Vogue-like fashion philosophy. MODE's editorial practice of providing models' names, sometimes attached to quotes on self-esteem to make them more approachable greatly aided the popularity of the models featured and gave them a form of celebrity. MODE also ran model search competitions in conjunction with the Wilhelmina modelling agency, drawing entries from thousands of hopefuls from the US and Canada. Its circulation was approximately 600,000 at the time of its demise in late 2001.

In 1995, Lane Bryant began a transformation of the brand which included large-scale fashion showings and the use of celebrity endorsement. Queen Latifah, Mia Tyler, Camryn Manheim, Anna Nicole Smith and Chris Noth have all appeared in advertising and/or events on behalf of the brand. Lane Bryant held a large-scale lingerie fashion show to launch the "Cacique Intimates" lingerie collection on February 1, 2000. The 2003 final large-scale catwalk show featured Roseanne Barr as Matron of Ceremonies in a cabaret setting complete with Moulin Rouge-style singers and dancers.

Agency Growth, U.S.

Gary Dakin headed the Karin Models' Curves division, only to leave after a short time to develop the Ford agency's Ford 12+ model division in their New York office. In Constantine Valhouli's 2001 plus-size model documentary Curve, Dakin states, "We're celebrating our 25th anniversary of the Ford 12+ division. It was the first and longest-existing plus division in the industry."(sic) Wilhelmina NYC agent Susan Georget started the Wilhelmina 10/20 division in New York 1994, recently re-branded W Curve. Together, these agents created agency divisions that have continued to recruit the highest calibre of models in the industry and are credited with expanding opportunities for plus-size models beyond working solely for plus-size clothing retailers, although Georget and Dakin have now removed themselves from day-to-day booking tasks.

Setbacks to growth, U.S.

Occurring shortly before the time of MODE's closure was the failure of several designers' ventures into the plus-size market. Versace (GV Versatile Couture), Valentino (Carisma), Anne Klein Plus and others ceased producing the clothing which MODE Magazine relied upon, leaving a gaping hole in both the fashion department wardrobes and advertising revenue coffers of MODE Magazine and its successor/s.

• After the demise of MODE Magazine its then Executive Editor, Ceslie Armstrong, and many of the ex-MODE staff collaborated to create Grace Magazine, which launched on May 14, 2002 as an independent quarterly publication and website under a similar concept. Even though the initial 400,000 print run sold out quickly, and the magazine's issues were brimming with advertising, the independent status and limited funding prohibited the ability to grow to fill the newsstand and subscription orders. Critics, however, believed that Grace featured far less stylish fashion content than its predecessor and unwisely pursued an editorial emphasis on weight-related health issues. Grace Magazine ceased operation due to lack of funding in November 2003, after publishing 10 issues.

• Lane Bryant was acquired by Charming Shoppes for $335 million in August 2001, and in 2003 a cost-reduction plan was announced to improve the company's pre-tax position by $45 million. Shortly afterwards, the annual Lane Bryant fashion show ceased production, however redress was to come later in the form of Charming Shoppes' custom advertorial magazine, Figure. Although it featured only Charming Shoppes' own product and related lifestyle articles, it remained the only U.S.-based fashion and lifestyle print magazine specifically-targeted for plus-size consumers up to the time of its announced closure after the publication of the March/April 2009 issue. .

The North American industry in review

While the Internet has provided a breeding ground for a growing number of grassroot e-zines, model agencies, online retailers, calendar projects and other associated ventures, the lack of a print publication serving the plus-size consumer in North America has compounded the stagnation in the growth of the North American plus-model industry. With supply of models currently much higher than demand from clients now struggling with reduced advertising budgets, and agencies raising model standards and tightening their belts financially and reducing the number of models they represent, a substantial nudge is required for the industry to experience a growth comparable to that which it enjoyed in the late 1990s.

U.S. television program America's Next Top Model has featured contestants acknowledging the plus-size industry's relevance to fashion since the show's launch in 2003. After elimination from the competition some of the contestants have signed contracts with the Wilhelmina agency, although only one (Whitney Thompson) has successfully translated their TV celebrity into an ongoing modeling career.

2007 was the launch year for several homegrown calendar projects featuring models over a U.S. size 12, including the well-publicized Luscious and Fenomenal Calendar products. To this date, no calendar has been successful enough to continue beyond its initial launch year.

Canadian publication LouLou magazine has included specifically produced plus-size inserts since 2008. Echoing Figure's advertorial relationship to Lane Bryant, LouLou's supplement features products from Reitmans group of plus-size apparel companies (Addition-Elle, MXM, Pennington's) within its pages.

Vogue U.S. continues to use plus-size models and celebrities for the annual "Shape Issue" (April issue), and after the appearance of a stock photograph of model Lizzie Miller, U.S. Glamour has declared it will feature more plus-size models as editorial policy.

High fashion print publication V Magazine featured seven professional plus-size models in "The Size Issue" #63, photographed by leading fashion photographers .

Notable plus-size models, North America

• Emme (Melissa) Aronson is acknowledged as the first plus-size model to achieve widespread recognition in the United States. She hosted Fashion Emergency on E! and has appeared on most major US TV networks. She was named one of People magazine's "50 Most Beautiful People" twice (1994 and 1999) and Glamour magazine's "Woman of the Year" (1997). She has a collectible doll named for her, and bearing her likeness.

• Barbara Brickner has maintained a plus-size modeling career of over ten years. Featured numerous times in MODE Magazine, she went on to model for many plus-size designers; most notably for Italian company Elena Miro, appearing by herself in their 2000 calendar. Also in 2000, Brickner launched a line of plus-size maternity clothing named BB Maternity, sold through U.S. department stores.

• Kate Dillon began her career as a size 6 with Elite NYC, but after overcoming health issues (anorexia) eventually relaunched her career as a U.S. size 14 plus-size model. Dillon enjoyed a fast rise to fame via the covers and editorials of MODE Magazine, and has since notched up advertising campaigns for the top plus-size clothing retailers in the world. Dillon has appeared in several language editions of Vogue magazine, and has been photographed for high fashion magazines and campaigns by such photographers as Patrick Demarchelier, Helmut Newton, Francesco Scavullo, Albert Watson and Mario Testino, and has appeared in advertising for clients well outside of the usual plus-size œuvre such as Gucci, Isabella Rossellini's 'Manifesto' perfume, and Nine West. Dillon was a featured guest during season 3 of the US network show America's Next Top Model, talking to contestants about body image and self-esteem.

• Natalie Laughlin was the first plus-size model to have an advertisement feature on a billboard in New York's Times Square, an honor repeated four times by client Liz Claiborne. Laughlin was also the first plus-size model to appear in the U.S. edition of Glamour magazine.

• Lizzie Miller gained fame via internet and media discussions surrounding a photograph published in the September 2009 issue of U.S. Glamour as part of a story on women who are comfortable in their own skin. The photograph, which shows Miller's un-retouched stomach, including a visible roll of fat, "caused a storm in the fashion world."

• Crystal Renn suffered from anorexia and became a plus-size model after regaining her health. She has had editorials in each of Vogue's U.S., Italian, French and German editions, and an appearance on the catwalk for Jean-Paul Gaultier for his Spring 2006 prêt-à-porter collection. Renn was also chosen by Dolce & Gabbana to model their apparel in an international print campaign, and appeared on the cover and a 16-page editorial for the December issue of "Elle Italia". Renn's first book, "Hungry" (Simon and Schuster) is an autobiographical account of her experiences and was released on September 8, 2009.

• Jordan Tesfay began her career after winning a MODE Magazine model search competition in 1999. Tesfay was the first plus-model since Emme, and the first black plus-size model to appear in a nation-wide advertising campaign for CoverGirl cosmetics. She also appeared in a minor role in the direct-to-video release of Carlito's Way: Rise to Power, released in 2005.

• Whitney Thompson is the first plus-size model to win the reality-based TV show America's Next Top Model. Thompson began her modeling career at 15 in her home state of Florida, appearing several times on the cover of her local "Jacksonville" community magazine. Thompson is 5'10" and a US size 10 . She was 20 at the time of her appearances on ANTM. Thompson is the first plus-size model to appear on the cover of Seventeen magazine, on the July 2008 issue.

Notable plus-size models, other regions

• Charlotte Coyle was born in Northern Ireland, but became known as a plus-size model in the US while working for the clothing company Torrid. Coyle hosted a well-received UK reality TV show in 2006 named Fat Beauty Contest, in which contestants learned the basics of catwalk modeling from Coyle in order to compete in a finale fashion show.

• Johanna Dray of France notably appeared in John Galliano's 'Everybody is Beautiful' Spring 2006 prêt-à-porter show and subsequent French Vogue editorial of the collection, wearing what turned out to be Galliano's best-selling dress of the show. Utilizing her education in fashion design, Dray is the first plus-size model in Europe to launch a plus-size clothing line, named Tend@nces en clair par Johanna Dray, produced by catalog company 3Suisses Group. She has also appeared in interview with Elle France, and two high-fashion editorials for Gala magazine in their post-Cannes Film Festival issues of 2007 and 2008.

• Pollyanna McIntosh most notably appeared in the Pirelli Calendar for December 2004, photographed by Nick Knight. She also appeared as a UK size 14 in a UK Vogue 16-page fashion editorial, and has also worked with renown photographer David Bailey for Evans stores, and appeared in his book entitled, Bailey's Democracy.

• Natalie Wakeling is one of Australia's most recognizable plus-size models due to well-publicized appearances in Australian Cosmopolitan magazine as the first and continued example of their editorial policy of using models over an Australian size 12, as well as in advertising images for a wide variety of Australian retailers. Wakeling was also the first plus-size model to feature on a cover of Australian Cosmopolitan Pregnancy magazine in 2006. Wakeling created a plus-size premium denim brand called "Embody Denim", and as part of her commitment to educating young girls on healthy body image, Wakeling serves as an ambassador for the Eating Disorders Foundation of NSW.

Celebrities/entertainers working as plus-size models

Celebrities who wear clothing larger than a standard U.S. size 8 have increasingly been attracting endorsement contracts as advertisers seek to extend size-acceptance into the film, TV and music industries, and/or make use of their family or other connections. Please note that women who have lost weight, dropping below a U.S. size 10, since gaining popularity do not form part of this entry, nor do women unrepresented by agents.

• Velvet D'Amour Most notably appeared as the only larger sized model in Jean-Paul Gaultier's 2007 Spring/Summer prèt-â-porter show, and recently appeared as a judge on the US Oxygen Channel's Mo'Nique's F.A.T. Chance television program. D'Amour also featured in the title role of Avida, a 2006 French film selected for the 2006 Cannes and 2007 Tribeca festivals.

• Mia Amber Davis Appeared in a feature role in the 2000 comedy movie Road Trip as 'Rhonda'. Since her film appearance, Davis has been working as a model in New York and appearing on TV to speak on the issues of being plus-sized, and on self-esteem. Amber recently appeared on the Tyra Banks talk show dealing with the media's response to photographs of Banks in a swimsuit.

• Joanne Borgella Was a semi-finalist on American Idol (season 7), and is currently represented by the Wilhelmina Models agency as a plus-size model. Borgella was the first winner of Mo'Nique's Fat Chance plus-size model search on the Oxygen TV network.

• Toccara Jones Is a model and television personality. She was a contestant on the third cycle of the reality TV series America's Next Top Model (ANTM), and in connection with her career in mainstream plus-size modeling has also found a niche in interviews and related photography in lifestyle magazine speaking about self-esteem. Jones featured in Vogue Italia in 2008 in a fur advertorial photographed by Steven Meisel.

• Dana Owens, aka Queen Latifah Oscar^TM-nominated actress and music artist, Owens currently appears in US advertising for CoverGirl cosmetics. Owens is also the figurehead of the Curvation company's range of plus-size apparel and intimates, and the associated "Project Curvation", an awards program championing confidence in women.

• Christina Schmidt Appeared in seasons 1-3 of the popular Canadian cable TV series, Degrassi: The Next Generation as a plus-size model and is a unique example of the model/celebrity concept. Schmidt gained such popularity among the show's youthful audience that she was hired to model for plus-size clothing company Torrid and is now represented by the Wilhelmina 10/20 division in New York.

• Mia Tyler, daughter of Aerosmith singer Steve Tyler and Cyrinda Foxe-Tyler and half-sister of actress Liv Tyler, began modeling at age 20 via an appearance in Seventeen. She was represented by Wilhelmina and booked by companies seeking to associate themselves with her rock'n roll lifestyle and aesthetic. Tyler appeared in Vogue U.S. in its annual "Shape Issue" in 2003 and on the cover of Figure Magazine in May 2006.