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New York Fashion Week

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New York Fashion Week
Liu Wen, supermodel, walks the runway modeling fashions by designer Diane von Fürstenberg at New York Fashion Week 2013.
GenreClothing and fashion exhibitions
FrequencySemi-annually
Location(s)Manhattan (primarily at Skylight Clarkson Square and Industria )
CountryUnited States
Inaugurated1943
FounderEleanor Lambert

New York Fashion Week held in February and September of each year, is a semi-annual series of events (generally lasting 7–9 days) when international fashion collections are shown to buyers, the press and the general public. It is one of four major fashion weeks in the world, collectively known as the "Big 4," along with those in Paris, London and Milan.[1][2] The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) created the modern notion of a centralized “New York Fashion Week” in 1993, although cities like London were already using their city’s name in conjunction with the words “fashion week” in the 1980s. NYFW is based on a much older series of events called “Press Week,” founded in 1943.[3]

It has consisted of numerous branded events, such as Olympus Fashion Week New York[4] and MADE Fashion Week,[5] and many independent fashion productions around town.[6]

Producers of New York Fashion Week include IMG, FTL Moda in conjunction with Fashion Week Online, Style 360, Art Hearts Fashion, and Style Fashion Week, among others.[7][8][9][10]

A centralized calendar of citywide events (including those affiliated with WME/IMG) is kept by the CFDA,[11] and was acquired from calendar founder Ruth Finley.[12] Another calendar is kept by Fashion Week Online.[13]

The economic impact of New York Fashion Week is estimated at $887 million.[14]

Origin

The first New York Fashion Week was created in 1943 by Eleanor Lambert, press director of the American fashion industry’s first promotional organization, the New York Dress Institute.[15]

The event, the world's first organized fashion week, was called "Press Week", and was created to attract attention away from French fashion during World War II, when fashion industry insiders were unable to travel to Paris to see French fashion shows.[16] It was also meant to showcase American designers for fashion journalists, who had neglected U.S. fashion innovations.

Press Week was a success, and fashion magazines like Vogue, which were normally filled with French designs, increasingly featured American fashion.[16]

By the mid-1950s, the event was known as "Press Week of New York". Spring 1951 (held February 1951) was the 16th Annual Press Week of New York.[17]

Consolidation as "7th on Sixth"

In 1993, the CFDA, led by president Stan Herman and executive director Fern Mallis,[18][19] consolidated the citywide events known as "New York Fashion Week" by staging them in a cluster of white tents in Bryant Park.[20][21][22] The event was branded with the trademark "7th on Sixth."[23]

21st century

In 2001, "7th on Sixth" was sold to IMG.[24]

In 2004, the camera company Olympus became a sponsor of IMG's events, which were then renamed "Olympus Fashion Week."[4]

In 2007,[25] Mercedes-Benz became title sponsor of the IMG-produced events, adding New York to its roster of international "Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week,"[26] and dubbing it "Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York."[27]

In 2010, IMG/Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York left the Bryant Park tents, relocating to the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts.[28][29]

In September 2011, New York designers began live-streaming runway shows, following London, who began in February 2010.[30][31] Streams were originally offered on YouTube, and later on other sites.

In 2013, IMG and its New York Fashion Week events were sold to William Morris Endeavor (WME) and Silver Lake Partners for $2.3 billion.[32][33]

In 2014, the CFDA acquired FashionCalendar.com from Ruth Finley, who had managed it (originally in paper, then digital format) for more than 60 years.[34][35]

In January 2015, Mercedes-Benz announced its departure as title sponsor from WME/IMG's events.[36] Producer Kanye West announced he would gladly take over sponsorship of the event.[citation needed] It is no longer titled Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, although some in the press have referred to the event as Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in the media releases.

In March 2015, WME/IMG accounced that it had acquired MADE Fashion Week, which takes place during WME/IMG's events.[37][38]

In 2015, IMG's events were moved from Lincoln Center to Spring Studios.[28][39][40]

Current location

Following the loss of Bryant Park and later Lincoln Center as hosting site for New York Fashion Week, the event is no longer held in one central location. Locations have included a waterfront carnival, converted railway terminals and a former post office.[41]

Other notable events

Outside entrance, Spring 2009 New York Fashion Week

2014

In February 2014, Dr. Danielle Sheypuk became the first wheelchair-using model to appear in a show for New York Fashion Week; she modeled for designer Carrie Hammer.[42]

In September 2014, Karen Crespo became the first quadruple-amputee to walk at New York Fashion Week, also for Carrie Hammer. [43]

On December 12, 2014, a New York state court approved a settlement in a lawsuit by community activists over whether allowing the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents in Damrosch Park was a violation of the public trust doctrine. In accordance with the settlement, the City of New York, the New York City Department of Parks and Recreation, and Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts agreed not to renew their contract with IMG. As a result, the February 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was the last one staged in Damrosch Park.[44]

2015

The fall/winter 2015 shows took place from February 12–19.[45] In that week, actress Jamie Brewer became the first woman with Down syndrome to walk the red carpet at New York Fashion Week, which she did for designer Carrie Hammer.[46]

The spring/summer 2016[47] shows took place from September 10–17, 2015 at two new locations, Skylight at Moynihan Station in Midtown and Skylight Clarkson Square in SoHo.[48] The economic impact of these shows was estimated to be $900 million and attendance was approximately 125,000 people.[49]

In December 2015, the CFDA announced that it had hired the Boston Consulting Group to study revising the format of New York Fashion Week to adapt to changes brought about by social media. One option being explored is to bifurcate the event, with private showroom appointments of next season's designs for buyers and public fashion shows displaying in-season merchandise for consumers.[50][51][52]

The first New York Fashion Week dedicated menswear shows, called "New York Fashion Week: Men's," were produced by the CFDA in 2015.[53]

2016

Fall/winter 2016 events took place February 11–18, 2016[54] at a variety of locations around New York City, including Skylight Moynihan, Skylight Clarkson, Chelsea Piers, MADE Studios, and showrooms around town.[55]

The season ended with a number of designers either experimenting with, or planning to adopt, a "see now, buy now model," with items available from the runway immediately after (or even during) the show, rather than six months later.[56] The charge was led by brands such as Burberry,[57] although experiments in the format can be traced back to earlier shows by designers such as Diane von Furstenberg.

Spring/summer 2017 events will be held September 8–15, 2016. (Fashion weeks are traditionally named for the season the clothes will appear at retail, six months after the events, although the trend may be changing due to fundamental shifts in the retail cycle.)[51]

The advent of "see now, buy now" shopping is expected to further transform fashion week, as collections become "in season" and select items are offered from the runway in real time.[58]

2018

Fall/winter took place February 5-8, 2018, and spring/summer 2019 will take place September 6-14, 2018. In February, major venues were Spring Studios, among others.[59]

Attendance

Admission to shows at New York Fashion Week is typically in the form of accreditation, with specific events by invitation only.[60]

No "Official" New York Fashion Week

In spite of CFDA's claim to run the "official" New York Fashion Week calendar[61], and as further purported by publications such as Women's Wear Daily [62], it has been pointed out in publications such as The Fashion Law that CFDA has "little, in any, legal rights in the NYFW name".[63] Therefore, trademark rights remain unclear, at best.

Trademark litigation

In 2013 Fashion Week Inc., founded by Trisha Paravas, registered the trademarks “New York Fashion Week,” “NYFW”, and “NYFW The Runway Shows” to use in conjunction with the production of its consumer-based fashion shows. On June 28, 2016 Fashion Week Inc. filed a lawsuit for $10 million against CFDA and WME-IMG for trademark counterfeiting, trademark infringement, false designation of origin, dilution, and unfair competition.[64][65][66][67][68]

On August 12, 2016, the court denied Fashion Week Inc.'s motion for a preliminary injunction.[69] Judge Koeltl held that CFDA and WME-IMG made "a persuasive argument that the terms 'New York Fashion Week' and NYFW have been associated with them and not with [Fashion Week Inc.] who has attempted to cash in on the decades of publicity for New York Fashion Week that [Fashion Week Inc.] had nothing to do with."[69]: 22  The court also noted that "the evidence shows that [Fashion Week Inc.] produced at most two shows while using the trademark 'New York Fashion Week', and has produced no shows since registering NYFW in December 2015. "[69]: 24 

See also

References

  1. ^ Bradford, Julie (2014). Fashion Journalism. Routledge. p. 129.
  2. ^ Dillon, Susan (2011). The Fundamentals of Fashion Management. A&C Black. p. 115.
  3. ^ "History of New York Fashion Week – New York Fashion Week".
  4. ^ a b "OLYMPUS NAMED TITLE SPONSOR OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK". Archived from the original on October 25, 2016. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadurl= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
  5. ^ "MADE Fashion Week". madefashionweek.com. MADE Fashion Week. Retrieved April 21, 2014.
  6. ^ "New York Fashion Week Schedule – Shows by Day and Designer". Nymag.com. Retrieved April 21, 2014.
  7. ^ "NEW YORK FASHION WEEK PRODUCERS". FWO. Retrieved July 7, 2018.
  8. ^ "Inspiring Model With Down Syndrome Returns To Fashion Week". The Huffington Post. February 17, 2016.
  9. ^ "Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week". mbfashionweek.com. Retrieved May 2, 2016.
  10. ^ "New York Fashion Week Producers | Fashion Week Online®". Fashion Week Online®. Retrieved June 5, 2018.
  11. ^ CFDA. "CFDA + Fashion Calendar".
  12. ^ "The CFDA Purchases The Fashion Calendar With The Promise To Streamline Fashion Week". fashionweekdaily.com. July 25, 2014.
  13. ^ "Official NYFW Schedule | Fashion Week Online®". Fashion Week Online®. Retrieved June 5, 2018.
  14. ^ "NYFW Memo from the CFDA". cfda.com.
  15. ^ "History". cfda.com.
  16. ^ a b Fortini, Amanda (February 8, 2006). "A brief history of the fashion show". Slate.com. Retrieved April 21, 2014.
  17. ^ "Indian Valley Record February 1, 1951 Page 10".
  18. ^ Chunovic, Louis (April 16, 2014). "The People's Designer – Stan Herman". Loews Magazine.
  19. ^ Fernandez, Chantal (June 29, 2015). "How Stan Herman, Father of Fashion Week, Changed the U.S. Fashion Industry". Fashionista.
  20. ^ Mell, Eila (2011). New York Fashion Week: The Designers, the Models, the Fashions of the Bryant Park Era. Running Press. p. 10. ISBN 0762441917.
  21. ^ "Pitching a Few New Tents of Her Own". The New York Times. February 9, 2012.
  22. ^ Spindler, Amy (October 31, 1993). "Designers Turn New York Into a Fashion Big Top". The New York Times. Retrieved December 19, 2014.
  23. ^ Lieber, Chavie (January 22, 2015). "The Glamorous Past, Troubled Present, and Uncertain Future of NYFW". racked.com.
  24. ^ Horyn, Cathy (February 6, 2001). "Front Row: Designers council sells sponsorship of New York Fashion Week to IMG, the sports management and marketing company". The New York Times. Retrieved December 19, 2014.
  25. ^ "EventsPartnerships".
  26. ^ "Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week". mbfashionweek.com.
  27. ^ "Mercedes Threatens to Bail on New York Fashion Week". hollywoodreporter.com.
  28. ^ a b "It's Official: New York Fashion Week Is Leaving Lincoln Center".
  29. ^ "A New Home for New York Fashion Week". The New York Times. February 3, 2009.
  30. ^ "London Fashion Week to be streamed live". February 19, 2010.
  31. ^ "Way Off the Runway: Live Streaming of Fashion Week". The New York Times. September 8, 2011.
  32. ^ Cohan, William D. "Ari Emanuel's Risky and Possibly Catastrophic WME-IMG Merger". vanityfair.com.
  33. ^ "IMG WORLDWIDE TO BE ACQUIRED BY SILVER LAKE PARTNERS AND WILLIAM MORRIS ENDEAVOR". IMG. Archived from the original on July 4, 2015. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadurl= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
  34. ^ http://fashionista.com/2014/07/cfda-acquires-fashion-calendar
  35. ^ "Fashion Calendar". fashioncalendar.com.
  36. ^ "IMG Loses Mercedes as New York Fashion Week Sponsor". hollywoodreporter.com.
  37. ^ Zumberge, Marianne (March 23, 2015). "IMG Acquires MADE Fashion Week". IMG.
  38. ^ "IIMG ACQUIRES MADE FASHION WEEK". IMG. Archived from the original on July 4, 2015. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadurl= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
  39. ^ "For Fashion Week This Fall: Location, Location, Location". The New York Times. January 8, 2015.
  40. ^ Lockwood, Lisa (April 13, 2015). "New York Fashion Week Leaves Lincoln Center".
  41. ^ https://www.amny.com/lifestyle/fashion-week/new-york-fashion-week-when-where-what-to-wear-1.10833995
  42. ^ Lankston, Charlie. "Dr. Danielle Sheypuk the first wheelchair-bound model in NYFW lands her debut clothing campaign". Daily Mail. Retrieved March 12, 2015.
  43. ^ Jessica Probus (March 7, 2015). "A Quadruple Amputee Walked The Runway At New York Fashion Week". Buzzfeed.com. Retrieved March 12, 2015.
  44. ^ "New York Fashion Week Booted Out of Lincoln Center". The New York Times. December 18, 2014. Retrieved December 19, 2014.
  45. ^ "Fashion Calendar". New York Mag. Retrieved July 2, 2015.
  46. ^ Jessica Probus, Stephanie McNeal. "Meet The First Woman With Down Syndrome To Walk At Fashion Week". BuzzFeed.
  47. ^ "Here's the New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 Schedule".
  48. ^ Mau, Dhani. "New York Fashion Week Is Moving To Two New Locations". fashionista.com. Retrieved July 2, 2015.
  49. ^ Anwar, Sara. "From staged stumbles to transatlantic shifts: This was NYC Fashion Week". CNN. Retrieved October 26, 2015.
  50. ^ Lockwood, Lisa. "NYFW Going Consumer? CFDA Studies Idea". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved December 16, 2015.
  51. ^ a b CFDA. "The Results are in: Examining the Future of New York Fashion Week".
  52. ^ http://fashionista.com/2016/03/cfda-bcg-fashion-week-survey
  53. ^ CFDA. "Full Coverage of NYFW: Men's S/S 2017".
  54. ^ "NYFW Schedule – New York Fashion Week".
  55. ^ "2016 Fall Ready-to-Wear – WWD".
  56. ^ "Is This The Last Traditional New York Fashion Week?". February 14, 2016.
  57. ^ "Burberry Announces a See Now/Buy Now System for New Collections". The New York Times. February 6, 2016.
  58. ^ "Is This The Last Traditional New York Fashion Week?". Harper's BAZAAR. February 14, 2016. Retrieved April 27, 2016.
  59. ^ "Schedule: February 8, 2018". NYFW: The Shows. Retrieved June 5, 2018.
  60. ^ Chan, Sewell (September 6, 2007). "Fashion Week: Not Open to the Public". The New York Times. Retrieved December 18, 2014.
  61. ^ https://cfda.com/fashion-calendar/official-schedules
  62. ^ http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/the-tentative-official-nyfw-calendar-is-here-10953303/
  63. ^ http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/the-cfda-has-little-if-any-rights-in-the-nyfw-name
  64. ^ Cullins, A. "WME-IMG and CFDA Facing $10M Lawsuit for "Usurping" New York Fashion Week Trademark". The Hollywood Reporter. Retrieved August 3, 2016.
  65. ^ Hoshikawa, K. "The CFDA is being sued over 'NYFW' trademark". Fashionista. Retrieved August 3, 2016.
  66. ^ Drain, K. "New York Fashion Week Logo Lawsuit: CFDA, WME-IMG Sued". Fashion Times. Retrieved August 3, 2016.
  67. ^ "The CFDA Has Little – If Any – Legal Rights in the NYFW Name". The Fashion Law. Retrieved August 3, 2016.
  68. ^ "UPDATED: CFDA, WME-IMG Sued for Using New York Fashion Week Trademark". The Fashion Law. Retrieved August 3, 2016.
  69. ^ a b c "Memorandum Opinion and Order" (PDF). August 12, 2016.
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