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Mount Gongga

Coordinates: 29°35′45″N 101°52′45″E / 29.59583°N 101.87917°E / 29.59583; 101.87917
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Mount Gongga
Minya Konka Northwest Ridge
Highest point
Elevation7,556 m (24,790 ft)
Ranked 41st
Prominence3,642 m (11,949 ft)
Ranked 47th
ListingUltra
Coordinates29°35′45″N 101°52′45″E / 29.59583°N 101.87917°E / 29.59583; 101.87917
Geography
Mount Gongga is located in Sichuan
Mount Gongga
Mount Gongga
Location in Sichuan
LocationGarzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan, China
Parent rangeDaxue Shan (大雪山)
Climbing
First ascentOctober 28, 1932 by Terris Moore, Richard Burdsall
Easiest routeNorthwest Ridge
Gongga viewed from the west.
Orthographic projection centred over Gongga Shan

Mount Gongga (simplified Chinese: 贡嘎山; traditional Chinese: 貢嘎山; pinyin: Gònggá Shān), also known as Minya Konka (Khams Tibetan pinyin: Mi'nyâg Gong'ga Riwo), is the highest mountain in Sichuan province, China. It is also known to locals as "The King of Sichuan Mountains". Situated in the Daxue Shan mountain range, between Dadu River and Yalong River, part of the Hengduan mountainous region, Mount Gongga is the easternmost 7,000 metres (23,000 ft) peak in the world and the third highest peak outside the Himalaya/Karakoram, after Tirich Mir and Kongur Tagh.

The peak has large vertical relief over the deep nearby gorges.


Mountaineering history

  • Graf Béla Széchenyi (from Ed. Ellinger in Österreichs Illustrierter Zeitung, 1900)
    Graf Béla Széchenyi (from Ed. Ellinger in Österreichs Illustrierter Zeitung, 1900)
  • Title page of an expedition report from a member of Graf Béla Széchenyi's expedition[1]
    Title page of an expedition report from a member of Graf Béla Széchenyi's expedition[1]
  • Joseph Rock
    Joseph Rock
  • Edwuard Imhoff, Die Grossen Kalten Berge von Szetschuan.
    Edwuard Imhoff, Die Grossen Kalten Berge von Szetschuan.

According to[2] an early remote measurement of the mountain, then called Bokunka, was performed by the expedition of Graf Béla Széchenyi 1877–80. They came to a height of 7600 meter. 45 years later the mountain, this time called Gang ka, was sketched by missionary J. H. Edgar, again from remote.

In 1929[2] the explorer Joseph Rock, making an attempt to measure its altitude, miscalculated its height as 30,250 ft (9,220 m) and cabled the National Geographic Society to announce Minya Konka as the highest mountain in the world. This measurement was viewed with suspicion from the start, and the Society's decision to check Rock's calculations before publication was well-founded. Following discussions with the Society, Rock reduced the claim to 7,803 m (25,600 ft) in his formal publication.

In 1930 Swiss geographer Eduard Imhof led an expedition that measured altitude of the mountain to be 7,590 m (24,900 ft).[3] A richly illustrated book about the expedition, including several color paintings by Imhof of the monastery at the foot of the sacred mountain, was published by Eduard Imhof, Die Großen Kalten Berge von Szetchuan (Orell Fussli Verlag, Zurich, 1974). The Tibetan monastery at the base of the mountain, documented by Imhof, was almost completely destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, around 1972-74.

A second, better-equipped American team returned in 1932, and did an accurate survey of the peak and its environs. Their summit altitude measurement agreed with Imhof's figure of 7,590 m. Two members (Terris Moore, and Richard Burdsall) of this small expedition (only four climbing members, including Arthur B. Emmons and Jack T. Young) succeeded in climbing to the summit. They began on the west side of the mountain and climbed the Northwest Ridge.

This was a remarkable achievement at the time, considering the height of the mountain, its remoteness, and the small size of the group. In addition, this peak was the highest summit reached by Americans until 1958 (though Americans had by that time climbed to higher non-summit points). The book written by the expedition members, Men Against The Clouds[4] remains a mountaineering classic.

In 1980, Dr. Lance Owens received the first permit from the People's Republic of China to lead an American mountaineering expedition in Tibet, granting him permission to climb Minya Konka. This expedition initiated the modern era of American climbing in China. The expedition, organized by Lance Owens and sponsored by the American Alpine Club, attempted the (still unclimbed and extremely technical) West face of Minya Konka. Members of the expedition included Louis Reichardt, Andrew Harvard, Gary Bocarde, Jed Williamson, and Henry Barber.[5]

Minya Konka, photographed from the west. Photograph taken during the 1980 American expedition.


As of 2007, The Himalayan Index[6] listed five additional ascents of Gongga Shan, and seven unsuccessful attempts. There have been many more attempts in years since then. A number of deaths have occurred on Gongga Shan, which earned a reputation as a difficult and dangerous mountain. In 1981, eight Japanese climbers died of a fall[7] during an unsuccessful attempt.[8] Up to 1999, more climbers had died trying to climb the mountain than had reached the summit.[9]

The SummitPost[8] reports that as of 2003 the mountain had been successfully climbed only eight times. In total, 22 climbers reached the summit, and 16 climbers died in the effort.

On October 7th, 2017, Chinese media reported that Pavel Kořínek, a Czech national, had reached the top of Mount Gongga, marking the first time in fifteen years that the mountain had been successfully climbed.[10] The article summarize the climbing history of Minya Konka:

"Under the long-term action of the glacier, the main peak developed into a cone-shaped, large-angle peak, with surrounding cliffs at 60° to 70°. Coupled with the bad weather in the region, it is difficult to conquer. The summit is much more difficult than Everest. According to incomplete statistics, as of September 2017, a total of 32 people had successfully reached the summit and 21 people were killed during attempts to climb the peak. According to the Sichuan Mountaineering Association, the death rate of Gongga Mountain is much higher than Everest and all the 13 peaks over 8000 meters, making it the peak with the highest mountain death rate in the world...."[11]

References

  1. ^ Kreitner, Gustav: Im fernen Osten. Reisen des Grafen Graf Béla Széchenyi in Indien, Japan, China, Tibet und Birma in den Jahren 1877–1880. Viena 1881. In German.
  2. ^ a b Arnold Heim: The Glaciation and Solifluction of Minya Gongkar. The Geographical Journal. Vol. 87, No. 5 (May, 1936), pp. 444–450. Published by: The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers)
  3. ^ "Expedition zum Minya Konka in Chinesisch Tibet 1930".
  4. ^ R. Burdsall, T. Moore, A. Emmons, and J. Young, Men Against The Clouds (revised edition), The Mountaineers, 1980.
  5. ^ http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198130902/Asia-China-Gongg-Shan-Minya-Konka-from-the-South
  6. ^ "Himalayan Index". The Alpine Club. Retrieved 12 June 2007.
  7. ^ Searchers find body missing for 26 years, AAP, Jun 12 2007 Archived June 5, 2011, at the Wayback Machine
  8. ^ a b SummitPost Minya Konka (Gongga Shan)
  9. ^ Macfarlane, Robert (15 October 2012). "Ice, from The Old Ways: A Journey on Foot". Design Observer. Observer Omnimedia LLC. Archived from the original on 21 January 2013. Retrieved 22 October 2012.
  10. ^ "时隔15年人类再登蜀山之巅_社会_甘孜频道_四川在线". ganzi.scol.com.cn. Retrieved 2017-11-21.
  11. ^ "时隔15年人类再登蜀山之巅_社会_甘孜频道_四川在线". ganzi.scol.com.cn. Retrieved 2017-11-21.
  • Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8

Further reading

  • Michael Brandtner: Minya Konka Schneeberge im Osten Tibets. Die Entdeckung eines Alpin-Paradieses. Detjen-Verlag, Hamburg 2006, ISBN 3-937597-20-4
  • Arnold Heim: Minya Gongkar. Verlag Hans Huber, Bern–Berlin 1933
  • Eduard Imhof: Die großen kalten Berge von Szetschuan. Orell Füssli Verlag, Zürich 1974
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