Eureka, California

For detail on historic use of the Greek term "Eureka," see Eureka (word).

City of Eureka, California
Aerial view: Eureka on Humboldt Bay
Official seal of City of Eureka, California Seal
Motto:  Eureka! - (I have found it!)
Map of California showing the location of Eureka
Country	United States
State	California
County	Humboldt
Founded	May 13, 1850 (settlement)
Incorporated	April 18, 1856 (town)
Re-incorporated	February 19, 1874 (city)
Government
• Type	Mayor-council
• Mayor	Virginia Bass
• City manager	David Tyson
Elevation	44 ft (13 m)
Population  (2000)
• Total	26,128
	Source: U.S. Census
Time zone	UTC-8 (PST)
• Summer (DST)	UTC-7 (PDT)
ZIP codes	95501, 95502, 95503
Area code	707
Website	www.ci.eureka.ca.gov

Eureka is the county seat and principal city in Humboldt County, California, United States. Located adjacent to Humboldt Bay, the city is situated between extensive preserves of the world's tallest trees - the Coast Redwoods. This architecturally and historically significant seaport serves as the regional center for government, health care, trade, and the Arts for the far North Coast of California.

History

Eureka's Pacific coastal location on Humboldt Bay adjacent to abundant Redwood forests provided a rich environment for the birth of this 19th century seaport town. Beginning more than 150 years ago, miners, loggers, and fishermen began making their mark in this pristine wilderness of the California North Coast. But the area was already occupied by small groups of indigenous peoples, whose lives were changed forever, if not lost completely, after thousands of years of relative stability in bountiful surroundings.

First Nation

The Wiyot people, are the indigenous people of this area. They are the farthest-southwest people whose language has Algonquian roots. Their traditional coastal homeland ranged from the lower Mad River through Humboldt Bay and south along the lower basin of the Eel River. The Wiyot are particularly known for their basketry and fishery management. An extensive collection of highly evolved basketry of the areas indigenous groups exists in the Clarke Museum in Eureka's Old Town.

European arrival and conflict

Humboldt Bay was "rediscovered," after going missing since the first documented European "discovery" in 1806. The mystery was due to the treacherous waters of the Pacific Ocean and the unusually narrow harbor entrance, which is often cloaked in fog. Despite these and other challenges which were to come, Eureka was founded on May 13, 1850 by the Union and Mendocino Exploring (development) companies.

The first Europeans venturing into Humboldt Bay encountered the indigenous Wiyot. Records of early forays into the bay reported that the violence of the local indigenous people made it nearly impossible for landing parties to survey the area. After 1850, Europeans ultimately overwhelmed the Wiyot, whose maximum population before the Europeans was in the hundreds and not the thousands. Settlers unconsciously and then deliberately cut off access to ancestral sources of food in addition to the outright taking of the land despite efforts of some US Government and military officials to assist the native peoples or at least maintain peace. A tragic slaughter committed by a group of locals in the spring of 1860 is detailed in the Wiyot article. The chronicle of the behavior of European settlers toward the indigenous cultures locally and throughout America is present in surprising detail in the Fort Humboldt State Historic Park museum, on the southern edge of the city.

Gold rush era

Secondarily to the California Gold Rush in the Sierras, prospectors discovered gold in the nearby Trinity region (along the Trinity, Klamath, and Salmon Rivers). Because miners needed a convenient alternate to the tedious overland route from Sacramento, schooners and other vessels soon arrived on recently discovered Humboldt Bay. Though the ideal location on Humboldt Bay adjacent to naturally deeper shipping channels ultimately guaranteed Eureka's development as the primary city on the bay, Arcata's proximity to developing supply lines to inland gold mines ensured supremacy over Eureka through 1856. "Eureka" is a Greek word meaning "I have found it!" This exuberant statement of successful (or hopeful) California Gold Rush miners is also the official Motto of the State of California.

Lumber and developing economy

Many of the first arrivals who arrived as prospectors were also lumbermen, and the vast potential for industry on the bay was soon realized, especially as many hopeful miners realized the difficulty and infrequency of striking it rich in the mines. By 1854, after only four years since the founding, seven of nine mills processing timber into marketable lumber on Humboldt Bay were within Eureka. A year later 140 lumber schooners operated in Humboldt Bay, supplying lumber to other booming cities along the Pacific coast.

The Carson Mansion (1885) in Eureka's Old Town

A bustling commercial district and ornate Victorians rose in proximity to the waterfront, reflecting the great prosperity experienced during this era. Many hundreds of these charming Victorian homes remain today in their original elegance and splendor, including those examples in nearby Arcata and the Victorian village of Ferndale. The magnificent Carson Mansion on 2nd and M Streets, is perhaps the most spectacular Victorian in the nation. The home was built between 1884-1886 by renowned 19th Century architects Newsom and Newsom for lumber baron William M. Carson. This project was designed to keep mill workers and expert craftsman busy during a slow period in the industry. Old Town Eureka, the original downtown center of this busy city in the 19th Century, has been restored and has become a lively arts center. This nexus of culture behind the redwood curtain still contains many of its Victorian architecture buildings, which are now transformed into scores of unique lodgings, small shops, and restaurants.

Fishing, shipping, and boating

Eureka's founding and livelihood was and remains linked to Humboldt Bay and its related fishing industry. Salmon fisheries sprang up along the Eel River as early as 1851, and within seven years, 2,000 barrels of cured fish and 50,000 pounds of smoked salmon were processed and shipped out of Humboldt Bay annually, primarily from processing plants on Eureka's waterfront, which exist to this day. By 1858 the first of many ships built in Eureka was launched, beginning an industry that spanned scores of years. The bay is also the site of one of the west coast's largest Oyster farming operations, which began its commercial status in the nineteenth century. The Bay remains the home port to more than 200 fishing boats in two modern marinas which can berth at least 400 boats within the city limits of Eureka.

Chinese expulsion

In addition to ethnic conflict with the native and Wiyot peoples, some Eurekans joined the statewide response to the increasing Chinese presence in the 1880s. Californians led the nation in the xenophobic response to the perceived large numbers of Chinese immigrants, which ultimately led to the US Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 (forms of this law remained in the US Code until 1943). Economic downturns and resulting competition for jobs especially led some citizens of European descent to commit sometimes violent racist actions, especially on the Pacific coast. In February 1885, the racial tension in Eureka broke when a member of two rival Chinese gangs (tongs) accidentally shot and killed a Eureka City Councilman in the crossfire between the two opposing gangs. This led to the convening of an angry mob of 600 Eurekans and resulted the forcible, permanent expulsion of all 300 Chinese residents of Eureka's Chinatown (a one block area). The Chinese did not return to Eureka until the 1950s.

Twentieth century transportation

As it became more difficult to find uncut stands of redwoods near the bay's waterways, the rapid growth of the lumber industry gave way to the development of railroad systems in the area. In 1914, the first major, reliable land route was established between San Francisco and Eureka with the opening of the Northwestern Pacific Railroad. With passenger service from San Francisco to the bustling Redwood Empire, Eureka prospered and grew. By the 1920s the Redwood Highway was completed, providing for the first direct overland route for automobiles from San Francisco. Eureka's transportation to the "outside" world had changed dramatically after more than half a century of uncomfortable stage rides (which could take weeks in winter) or treacherous steamship passage through the infamous Humboldt Bar and on the rarely pacified Pacific Ocean to San Francisco.

Post 1950s

The timber industry declined along with Pacific Northwest fisheries steadily since the 1950s. Overcutting and overfishing, increased regulation, and the creation of more parkland to preserve the remnants of once extensive virgin forests, rivers, and fisheries led to diminished profits and massive layoffs of blue collared mill workers and fisherman, beginning in earnest by the 1970s. Competition from other timber markets outside the nation only hastened the process of decline in logging and related industries. The challenges resulting from this economic and resulting social upheaval were significant in the lives of many Eureka and North Coast residents. However, both the local fishing industry and the timber industry still figure large in the local and state economy, though in diminished form from the past.

For the region, Eureka remains the center for commerce and healthcare.

Geography

Eureka is ideally, if remotely, situated within California's Redwood Empire region due to its proximity to exceptional natural resources. These include the spectacular coast of the Pacific Ocean, Humboldt Bay, and several rivers in addition to Redwood National and State Parks and Humboldt Redwoods State Park.

Eureka is the largest protected deep-water port between San Francisco Bay and Puget Sound. The location of Eureka on Highway 101 is 283 miles (455 km) north of San Francisco and 315 miles (507 km) north and west of Sacramento.

The city begins with its marina on one of three islands at a narrow point on the thirteen mile long bay and increases in elevation slightly as it spreads north, south, and especially to the east. This city of mostly one and two story wooden structures (fewer than ten buildings over 5 stories) gently encroaches at least two miles eastward into abundant, primarily Redwood and Douglas-fir second growth forests. The city has a traditional grid that generally radiates toward the points of the compass, though a correction to more accuracy in relation to the compass just east of the older downtown and residential area is noticeable.

In areas of post-1970 development, the previously completely removed forest, gulches, and ravines and their streams remain, adding considerable character to neighborhoods that because of recency in construction often lack the splendor (and occasional disrepair) of the earlier Victorian homes.

The transition between the official city limits and smaller unincorporated areas described in the demographic section is mostly not discernible. The most recently developed eastern areas include secluded developments on a golf course (as an example) among or in close proximity to extensive second growth forest. The city then gives way to hills and mountains of the rugged coast range, which quickly exceed 2,000 feet in elevation.

Climate

Eureka's climate is characterized by mild, rainy winters and cool, dry summers, with an average temperature of 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13°C). The highest and lowest temperatures recorded in Eureka are 87 and 20 degrees, respectively. The area experiences coastal influence fog year round.

Climate data for Eureka, California
Month	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
Source: Weatherbase

Demographics

According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 14.4 square miles (37.4 km²), of which 9.4 square miles (24.50 km²) of it is land and 5.0 square miles (12.9 km²) or 34.60% of it is water. As of the census of 2000, there were 26,128 people, 10,957 households, and 5,883 families residing in the city. The population density was 2,764.5 people (1,067.5/km²). There were 11,637 housing units at an average density of 1,231.3 per square mile (475.5/km²). The racial makeup of the city was 82.46% White, 1.63% Black or African American, 4.21% Native American, 3.55% Asian, 0.33% Pacific Islander, 2.71% from other races, and 5.10% from two or more races. 7.77% of the population were Hispanic or Latino of any race.

There were 10,957 households out of which 25.8% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 34.8% were married couples living together, 14.0% had a female householder with no husband present, and 46.3% were non-families. 35.3% of all households were made up of individuals and 11.8% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.26 and the average family size was 2.93.

In the city the population was spread out with 22.4% under the age of 18, 11.6% from 18 to 24, 28.9% from 25 to 44, 23.5% from 45 to 64, and 13.7% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 37 years. For every 100 females there were 98.1 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 95.7 males.

The median income for a household in the city was $25,849, and the median income for a family was $33,438. Males had a median income of $28,706 versus $22,038 for females. The per capita income for the city was $16,174. 23.7% of the population and 15.8% of families were below the poverty line. Out of the total population, 29.6% of those under the age of 18 and 11.1% of those 65 and older were living below the poverty line.

Greater Eureka area

Eureka is the principal city of the Eureka-Arcata-Fortuna Micropolitan Area. With a population of approximately 40,000, the Greater Eureka area makes up the largest urban area on the Pacific Coast between San Francisco and Portland.

Eureka has a broad area of influence, which includes of all of Humboldt County and portions of Del Norte County, Mendocino County, and Trinity County, a large trading area with an estimated population of 150,000.

Transportation

Land

U.S. Route 101 extends north and south through the city. The route becomes city streets and speed on the route is reduced to stop and go traffic. Light signals control traffic flow through the city. The downtown is considered a fairly walkable community. California State Route 299 (formerly U.S. Route 299) connects to U.S. Route 101 at the northern end of the nearby city of Arcata. Route 299 begins at that point and extends easterly to serve as the major traffic artery to the east for the community of Eureka.

When planning a trip by road, it's best to check road conditions, as snow and mudslides occasionally cause road closures in the winter and rainy seasons, respectively.

Limited bus transportation is available in Eureka and the county. Dial-A-Ride service is available from Humboldt Senior Resource Center for Eureka through an application process.

Air

Eureka's full service airport is the Arcata-Eureka Airport, located 15 miles north in McKinleyville. Murray Field, a commuter airport for private and charter air service, is located within the northern city limit of Eureka adjacent to the Arcata Bay portion of Humboldt Bay.

Water

A deep water port is located directly west of the city and is serviced across the bay in the community of Samoa. Several modern small craft marinas are available for private use, with a total capacity of more than 400 boats.

Public

Public bus transportation services within Eureka are provided by the Eureka Transit Service. The Humboldt Transit Authority provides bus transportation through Eureka and connects to major towns and places outside the city, including educational institutions.

Economy

The economic base of the city was originally founded on timber and fishing and supplying gold mining efforts inland. Gold mining diminished quickly in the early years and activities of timber and fishing have diminished, especially in the latter decades of the twentieth century. Today, the major industries are tourism, timber (in value), and healthcare and services (in number of jobs). Major employers today in Eureka include the following governmental entities: College of the Redwoods, The County of Humboldt, and the Humboldt County Office of Education. St. Joseph Hospital in Eureka is now the largest private employer in Eureka.

The 2000 U.S. Census indicates that 3.7% of the employed civilian population 16 years and over (totaling 20,671) worked in agriculture, forestry, fishing, and hunting industries. This percentage may not be indicative of the actual number of people in these professions as many are self-employed, especially in the fishing industry. The 2000 U.S. Census reported that 24.9% of the community worked in education, health care, and social services. Another 18.4% were employed by the government, while self employed workers totaled 11.2% of all workers. The unemployment rate in 2000 was 5.5% compared to the national average of 5.7% (calculated by dividing the unemployed population by the labor force). For the population 16 years and older, 42.7% were not in the labor force, while 57.3% were employed. According to the 2000 U.S. Census, in 1999 the median household income was $25,849 and the per capita income was $16,174. Inhabitants whose income was below poverty level in 1999 were 23.7% of the population. Of the 11,637 housing units in 2000, 94.2% of the housing units were occupied, while 5.8% were vacant. Of the occupied housing units, 46.5% were owner occupied and 53.5% were renter occupied.

Government and law

The City of Eureka has a Mayor-Council system of governance. Primary power lies with the five council members, divided up into five wards. The Mayor has the power to appoint, as well as ceremonial duties, though the job includes presiding over council meetings, meeting visiting dignitaries, and, perhaps, the most significant bully pulpit of the region. Official city business is administered by the Office of the City Manager. The Eureka City Council regularly meets on the 1st and 3rd Tuesdays of the month at 5:30 p.m. for closed session, and 6:30 p.m. for open session. All meetings are open to the public, with the exception of the published closed session portion. Time is allowed during every council meeting for the public to address the council. The meetings are held in the Council Chambers on the 2nd floor of Eureka City Hall at 531 "K" Street, Eureka.

Recent government and law enforcement issues

There have been four fatal shootings by Eureka police officers that were accompanied by allegations of excessive force since April 2006, which has concerned local citizens and activists. Crime is escalating and many concerned residents have relocated to other counties because of the increase of drug crime and drug traffic.

A distraught mother, Cheri Moore, on the anniversary of her son's suicide, brandished a flare gun at police and later apparently threatened officers with the gun. After her death, a Coroner's Inquest made a non-binding recommendation that officers be better trained to deal with the mentally ill, and that mental health professionals be present at crisis situations involving the mentally ill ; by statute, a Coroner's Inquest can only rule on the cause of death. A multi-agency investigation recommended that no criminal charges be brought in the case, but the county District Attorney, Paul Gallegos, still has the option to bring charges . Moore's son, David Moore, has filed a civil suit against the City of Eureka in regard to his mother's death .

The second occurred on October 23, 2006 when Christopher Burgess, age 16, was shot and killed after attacking a police officer with a knife during an attempted arrest.

The third fatal police shooting occurred on December 8, 2006. Jonni Kiyoshi Honda was wanted for alleged sexual acts with a fourteen year old. There was a long standoff, where multiple teargas canisters were fired into his motel room. After crawling from the hotel room, he pointed his gun at officers, and did so again after being tazered, which resulted in being shot by officers Following the shooting, interim Chief Murl Harpham requested a State investigation.

The fourth shooting occurred when a multi agency police task force attempted to arrest Zachary Cooke in connection with several armed robberies. Cooke allegedly opened fire on police and was killed in the resulting return fire. Toxicology reports determined Cooke was under the influence of methampethamine. After this shooting, Chief Harpham stated that meth was making Eureka a "hellhole".

All of these incidents have led to renewed calls for a civilian police review commission by the Coalition for Police Review, an alliance including the Redwood Chapter of the ACLU, the county Human Rights Commission, the Civil Liberties Monitoring Project and some local Green Party organizations. While currently the county district attorney overviews the reports of officer related shootings to ascertain whether or not criminal charges should be filed, that office is in such disarray that to date there has been no decision by him of the first shooting which occurred in April 2006, leading many to speculate that his decision is being withheld for politically motivated reasons.

Education

Institutions of higher learning include the College of the Redwoods located on the south edge of the Greater Eureka Area and Humboldt State University, located just eight miles north in Arcata. College of the Redwoods recently developed a downtown satellite campus.

Eureka City Schools [1]administers the public schools of the city. These include Alice Birney Elementary, Grant Elementary, Lafayette Elementary, Lincoln Elementary, Washington Elementary, Winship and Zane Middle Schools, Eureka High School, Humboldt Bay High School, Zoe Barnum High School, the Eureka Adult School and Winzler Children's Center.

The Humboldt County Office of Education administers the Glen Paul Center in Eureka, which specializes in the educational needs of the developmentally disabled.

Culture and the arts

• Eureka is one of California's historic landmarks. The California State Historical marker, #477, designating Eureka, is located in Old Town, one of the nations best preserved, original Victorian era commercial districts.

• Eureka was voted as the #1 best small art town in John Villani's book "The 100 Best Small Art Towns In America.", and is endowed with extensive cultural resources and other favorable attributes.

As a major center, the city offers many lodgings, restaurants, and shopping areas, including dozens of specialty shops in its historic 19th Century Old Town commercial district and the only large mall in the region.

Arts and cultural events abound in Eureka, including the Redwood Coast Music Festivals (Jazz and the Blues), the Rhododendron Festival, the North Coast Repertory Theater and the Eureka Theater, and various events throughout the year at the Redwood Acres Fairgrounds.

• Art organizations include the Humboldt Arts Council and Morris Graves Museum of Art, Redwood Art Association, and the Eureka Art and Culture Commission.

• Eureka has a vibrant local music and arts scene and is known for its cultural idiosyncrasies. The Sci-Fi Channel premiered a television show called Eureka in 2006 inspired in part by this reputation, but the show is not actually filmed in Eureka.

• On the first Saturday night of the month, Old Town sponsors an "Arts' Alive!" gala. More than 40 Eureka business as well as local galleries display local art to the public. Drinks and snacks are provided, as well as live music and performance art by musicians, jugglers, fire dancers and poets.

• Eureka is the midpoint stop in the three-day-long kinetic sculpture race, a zany, 42-mile-long race of artistic, human powered machines that must prove themselves able to traverse mud, water, sand, gravel, and pavement.

• Old Town Eureka Fourth of July Celebration

• Mike Patton, best known as the lead singer of Faith No More, was born in Eureka.

• Sara Bareilles, an acclaimed singer-songwriter, pianist and recording artist, was raised in Eureka and attended Eureka Senior High School, graduating in 1998.

Architecture

Milton Carson Home (aka the "Pink Lady"), a Queen Anne style Victorian, Eureka, California

Due to northern isolation and unfavorable economic conditions in the latter part of the twentieth century, much of the post-war redevelopment and urban renewal that other cities experienced bypassed Eureka. As a result, Eureka is resplendent with examples of 19th and early 20th century architecture and historic districts. David Gebhard, Professor of architectural history of Santa Barbara has remarked that Eureka is a west coast Williamsburg, Virginia, preserving extensive Victorian homes and public buildings, including many ornate examples of Colonial Revival, Eastlake, Greek Revival, Italianate, Queen Anne, and Stick styles of Victorian architecture. All of these styles are present in the most famous and possibly most ornate of Victorian homes, The Carson Mansion (pictured above).

Approximately 16% of the city contains important historical structures. 13 distinct districts have been identified which meet the criteria for the National Register of Historic Places. Among them are the 2nd Street District (10 buildings), 15th Street district (13 buildings) and the O Street district (43 buildings). Hillsdale Street, a popular and well-preserved district, contains 17 buildings of historic interest. In all, some 1,500 buildings have been recognized as qualifying for the National Register. The Eureka Heritage Society, a local architectural preservation group founded in 1973, has been instrumental in protecting and preserving many of Eureka’s fine Victorians.

Museums

The Clarke Museum, the Morris Graves Museum of Art, the Discovery Museum for Children, and the Blue Ox Mill.

Zoo and parks

The Sequoia Park Zoo, Fort Humboldt State Historic Park, the Humboldt Botanical Garden, the Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge, and two marinas on Humboldt Bay.

Media

Eureka is the base for two major daily newspapers, the Times Standard and The Eureka Reporter, which contain original local news and syndicated content on state, national and international news. The Times-Standard, owned by the Colorado-based Media News Group founded by Dean Singleton. The new paper, The Eureka Reporter, which became a daily paper at the beginning of 2006. The Eureka Reporter's parent company is Security National, which itself is owned by financier and Republican activist Rob Arkley, Jr. and his wife, former Eureka council member Cherie Arkley, and the perceived economic and political agendas of the two papers have driven an increasingly heated competition.

Media News Group also owns a weekly classified advertiser, the Tri-City Weekly. Nearby publications which cover events in Eureka include a free Arcata-based weekly "of politics, people and art," the The Journal (formerly the North Coast Journal), and Humboldt State University's student newspaper, the Lumberjack. Eureka is also home to several alternative weekly publications, including the Internet-based Humboldt Sentinel which focuses on under-reported stories and unconventional opinion, as well as the Emerald Coast Herald, a Christian publication produced by a consortium of local churches.

All of Humboldt County's television stations (KIEM, KVIQ, KAEF, KEET) are based in the City of Eureka, as are most of the commercial radio stations in Humboldt County: (KFMI, KRED,[2], KXGO and KATA). Eureka also hosts KMUE, the local repeater for Redway-based community radio station KMUD, and on August 26, 2006 the Blue Ox Millworks and School of the Traditional Arts launched KKDS, a low power FM station focused on youth and community issues. KHSU, the only local public radio station, is broadcast from Humboldt State University in Arcata.

Sites of interest

• Humboldt Botanical Garden
• Sequoia Park Zoo
• Morris Graves Art Museum

Sister Cities

Eureka has sister cities in Kamisu, Japan and Nelson, New Zealand.

References

• The 100 Best Small Art Towns in America, by John Villani; ISBN 1-56261-405-3
• California Place Names: The Origin and Etymology of Current Geographical Names, by Erwin G. Gudde; ISBN 0520015746
• Eureka: An Architectural View, by The Eureka Heritage Society, Inc; ISBN 0-9615004-0-9
• The Humboldt Bay Region 1850-1875, by Owen C. Coy; ISBN B0006Y3SOU

External links

General guides

• The "Hum Guide:" Extensive area resources and information
• Virtual tours of Eureka

Arts & music

• Eureka Art and Culture Commission
• Humboldt Arts Council and Morris Graves Museum Website
• Humboldt Music.com - Local music, calendar, forums
• Redwood Art Association

• Arts Alive! Weblink and list of art galleries

History & historical museums

• Clarke Historical Museum
• Eureka Heritage Society
• Fort Humboldt State Historic Park
• Humboldt County Historical Society
• Old Town Eureka

Media

• Humboldt Sentinel
• Eureka Times Standard newspaper
• The Eureka Reporter newspaper
• List of Eureka radio stations zip 95501

Municipal services and schools

• The City of Eureka's website
• Eureka Transit Service
• Eureka City Schools

Tourism

• Humboldt County Visitor’s Bureau
• Eureka City Trails
• Blue Ox Millworks

Other

• Humboldt Economic Index
• Tuluwat Restoration Fund
• Myrtletown's Humboldt County E-community

Maps