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Hanfu are the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, here categorized by clothing style.

Informal wear

Two traditional forms of ruqun (襦裙), a type of Han Chinese clothing worn primarily by women. Cuffs and sleeves on the upper garment may be tighter or looser depending on style. A short skirt or weighted braid (with weight provided by a jade or gold pendant) is sometimes worn to improve aesthetics or comfort of the basic ruqun.

Types include tops and bottoms, long skirt, and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).

Zhongyi (中衣), which is usually the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants, can be wear along in casual.

The typical set of informal wear consists of two or three layers. The first layer is mostly zhongyi (中衣). The next layer is the main layer which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front.

For footwear, white socks and black cloth shoes (with white soles) are the norm. But in the past, shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes.

List of Inner garments
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Zhōngyī 中衣
Bàofù 抱腹 Han[1]
Dùdōu 肚兜,

兜肚, or 兜兜

Qing
Héhuān Jīn 合欢襟 Yuan dynasty[2]
Liǎngdāng 两当 It is an underwear which is made up of a square-shaped back and front panels.[1] A form of hufu. It was introduced in the Central Plains by the nomads of China.[2] Wei and Jin[1]
Mǒxiōng 抹胸 Song[1]
Xièyī 亵衣 Pre-Han[1]
Xīnyī 心衣 Han[1]
Zhǔyāo 主腰 Ming[1]
List of informal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Zhíjū 直裾 Straight lapelled, full body garment. Pre-Qin – Han File:Han zhiju.jpg
File:Zhiju1.jpg
Qūjū 曲裾 Diagonal body wrapped, full body garment. Pre-Qin – Han
Kùzhě 裤褶 Clothing with trousers for riding or military style clothing.[3][4] A short coat with trousers. Pre-Qin - Ming.
Páofú 袍服
Yèsāpáo 曳撒 or

一撒

A form of kuzhe.[3][4] Ming; Modern File:Yisan.jpg File:Yisan2.jpg
Zhì sūn fú or yisefu 质孙服 or 一色服 "robe of one colour" Introduced in Yuan; later became a uniform for the military officials Ming. Yuan – Ming
Rúqún 襦裙 "Jacket and skirt" An upper garment covered by a separate skirt.

A common clothing for women.

Pre-Qin – Ming; Modern
Ǎoqún/

Shānqún

袄裙/

衫裙

A short coat with a long skirt underneath. A common clothing for women. Han – Ming; Modern
File:孔府藏襖裙.jpg
File:Jili2.jpg
Zhíduō 直裰 Straight robe. Similar to zhiju but with vents at sides and cuffed sleeves.

A common attire for men.[5][6]

Tang – Ming
Modern
Dàopáo 道袍 Taoist robe. Worn by Taoist priests and normal scholars. Song – Ming; Modern
Shuǐtiányī 水田衣 Ming-Qing
Bǎijiāyī 百家衣 Liu Song – Modern File:Childrenhanfu1.jpg

Semi-formal wear

Generally, this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance.

A piece of ancient Chinese clothing can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:

  • Chang (裳): a pleated skirt
  • Bixi (蔽膝): a cloth attached from the waist, covering front of legs.
  • Zhaoshan (罩衫): long open fronted coat
List of semi-formal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Banbi 半臂 A half-sleeved waistcoat. Tang – Ming
Bijia 比甲 An open-sided vest. Ming
Beizi

or

Pifeng

褙子or

披风

Large loose outer coat with loose and long sleeves Song – Ming

Formal wear

In addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals, important sacrifices, religious activities or by special people who are entitled to wear them (such as officials and emperors).

The most formal dress civilians can wear is the xuanduan (sometimes called yuanduan 元端),[7][8] which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve (often with white piping), a bottom red chang, a red bixi (which can have a motif and/or be edged in black), an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou (佩綬), and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui (圭) or wooden hu (笏) tablet (used when greeting royalty). This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian (祭天) and Ji Zu (祭祖), etc., but is also appropriate for state occasions. The xuanduan is basically a simplified version of full court dress of the officials and the nobility.

List of formal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Xuanduan/

Yuanduan

玄端/

元端

Literally "dark solemn", a very formal dark robe.[7][9] Pre-Qin - Song
Shenyi 深衣 A long full body garment. Song - Ming
Yuanlingshan/

Panlingpao

圓領衫/盤領袍 Closed round-collared robe. Mostly used for official occasions. Sui – Ming
Lanshan 襴衫 Closed round-collared robe with black edges. Mostly used for academical dress; worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination. Tang – Ming
Daxiushan 大袖衫 Large Sleeve Gown. Worn by royal women. Five dynasties – Tang
Chang'ao 長襖 A long overcoat Ming
Zaju chuishao fu or Guiyi 杂裾垂髾服 or 袿衣 A formal dress worn by Elite women. Cao Wei to Northern and Southern dynasties

Court dress

Government officials in Changfu during the Wanli era, Ming dynasty

Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions. The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore.

Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns (known as changfu 常服 in court dress terms). This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front. The most distinct feature is the headgear which has 'wings' attached. Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them, but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding (but with no hat).

Court dress of emperors

Court dress of Emperors
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Longpao (龙袍) Jifu 吉服 The dragon robe for special occasions. Shang – Ming
Changfu 常服 The dragon robe for daily wear. Tang – Qing
Mianfu 冕服 Attire worn by emperors and crown princes. Shang – Ming
Tongtianguanfu 通天冠服 Tongtian, literally means "direct links with heaven".[10] Ceremonial dress. Shang – Ming
Bianfu 弁服 Occasional court dress. Also worn by officials or the nobility. Shang – Ming

Court dress of officials

Court dress of Officials: Guanfu (官服)
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Chaofu 朝服 A red ceremonial court dress of emperor, officials or nobility. Zhou – Ming
Gongfu 公服 Formal court dress according to ranks.[11] Tang - Ming
Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress. Song – Qing
Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ming – Qing
Zhongjingfu 忠静服 Retired official's bufu with same colour long cloth belt.[12] Ming
Cifu 賜服 Ceremonial court dress of the highest rank officials. The right to wear such dress was bestowed by emperors as a special honour. Ming – Qing
Mangfu 蟒服 Also known as the "four-clawed dragon" robe or "python robe". It is a type of Cifu. Ming-Qing
Feiyufu 飞鱼服 Also known as "flying fish" robe. It is a type of Cifu. Ming File:Man wearing a Feiyufu.jpg
Douniufu 斗牛服 Also known as "fighting bull" robe. It is a type of Cifu. Ming

Court dress for women

Court dress of Woman
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Huidi-yi 褘翟衣 Attire worn by empresses and crown princesses. Zhou – Ming
Dashanxiapei 大衫霞帔 The large gown with the radiance hanging scarf. Ceremonial court dress of empresses and mìngfu. Song- Ming
Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress of mìngfu. Ming
Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ceremonial court dress of mìngfu. Ming

Cloaks

  • Doupeng (斗篷), a cloak
    Doupeng (斗篷), a cloak

Lower garments

Main articles: Qun (Chinese skirts) and Ku and kun (Chinese trousers)
Types of Women's skirts
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Chang/ Shang 裳 A narrow, ankle-length skirt.[13] Shang - Zhou
Liuxianqun 留仙裙 "Fairy skirt".[14] Han
Jianqun or Jiansequn 间裙 or 间色裙 Stripped skirts.[15] It was a high waisted skirts which integrated both the techniques of the Han dynasty and foreign techniques from the Western Region.[16] In the Sixteen kingdoms, the skirt had panels of different colours; which could vary to: 6, 8, 12 regions.[16] From the Northern dynasty to the Tang dynasty, the skirt had denser multiple stripes.[16] In Tang, the stripped skirt was A-line.[17] Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties - Tang dynasty
Bainiaoqun 百鸟裙 "Hundred bird-feather skirt".[18] A feather skirt worn by a princess in Mid-Tang; the skirt was made with the feathers from a hundred birds.[19] Tang
Shiliuqun 石榴裙 "Pomegranate skirt" A red skirt which was very popular.[19] Tang
Yujinqun 郁金裙 "Turmeric skirt" A yellow skirt which was dyed with turmeric.[19] Tang
Liangpianqun 两片裙 An unpleated skirt which is composed of two pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband. The middle part of the skirt overlap and are not sewn together.[20] Song
Baidiequn 百迭裙 A one-piece pleated skirt; the top is narrow and the bottom is wide.[20] Song
Sanjianqun 三裥裙 A skirt made of 4 skirts pieces sewn together.[20] Song
Zhejianqun 褶裥裙 "Folded skirt" Song
Mamianqun 马面裙 "Horse-face skirt".[21] A skirt made of two-pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband. The sides of the skirt has knife pleats whereas the back and front have flat panels.[22] Ming-Qing File:孔府藏妝花織金藍緞裙.jpg File:孔府藏襖裙.jpg
Baijianqun 百襇裙 "Hundred pleated skirt".[21] Qing
Yuehuaqun 月華裙 "Moonlight skirt".[21] Made of ten pieces of fabric which was then tucked in 10 pleats; each pleats had a different colour which was light. It was a popular skirt in the early Qing dynasty.[19] Qing
Yulinqun 鱼鳞裙 Lit. "fish-scale" skirt. A skirt where pleats were joined with silk threads in order to makes creases which look like the scales of a fish.[19] The pleats were very tiny.[21] Qing
"Rainbow skirt".[23] Qing
Langanqun 襕干裙 "Chinese ink painting skirt". A skirt where scattered flowers pattern were printed.[19] Qing
Fengweiqun 凤尾裙 Lit. "Phoenix-tail skirt". An underskirt which is decorated with long ribbons of different colours of silk, the ribbons were narrow. Different embroidery is found on in each ribbon strips. It was popular during the reign of Kangxi and Qianlong.[19] Qing
Baizhequn 百摺裙 An all-around small pleated skirt.[24] Qing - Republic

Religious clothing

See also: Daojiao fushi - clothing of Taoists practitioners and devotees, Zhiduo (clothing), and Daopao

Those in the religious orders wear a plain middle layer garment followed by a highly decorated cloak or coat. Taoists have a 'scarlet gown' (絳袍) which is made of a large square-shaped cloak sewn at the hem to create very long deep sleeves used in very formal rituals.[25] They are often scarlet or crimson in colour with wide edging and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the eight trigrams and the yin and yang Taiji symbol.

Buddhist have a cloak with gold lines on a scarlet background creating a brickwork pattern which is wrapped around over the left shoulder and secured at the right side of the body with cords. There may be further decorations, especially for high priests.[26]

Daoists, Buddhists and Confucians may have white stripe chevrons.

Types of Religious Clothing
Name Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Fusha

or

Haiqing

彿裟

or

海青

"sea-blue".[27] Buddhist priests' full dress ceremonial robes. It is also worn by Zhenyi priests in Taiwan; it is blue in colour.[27]

Fayi (法衣); "ritual clothing"[28]

Jiangyi or Jiangpao 絳衣 or

絳袍

"Robe of descent",[29] or "scarlet robe".[25][30] A square-shaped poncho-like upper outer garment; the square symbolizes the earth which is perceived as square in Chinese cosmology.[31][30][32] It has motifs such as the sun, moon, Three heavens, stars and constellations, Sacred (golden) tower and flying cranes, Wu yue, Mountain peaks and cosmic waters.[31]It is worn by high ranking taoist priests, e.g. Grandmasters.[31] It is a formal outfit worn during Taoist ceremonies.[33] Ming- Present
Huayi 花衣 "Flowery robe" It is a ritual robe, worn under the jiangyi.[32] It is well decorated with motif, such as dragons, clouds, mountains, cranes and the seven stars Dipper.[28] It is worn by seniors and high ranking taoist priests.[28] Unknown- Present
Banyi 班衣 "Colourful robe" It is a ritual robe; it can have embroidered borders but the clothing is typically monochrome, mostly red in colour. It is worn for during daily recitations of scriptures in a worship hall before divinities.[28] Unknown – Present
Daopao 道袍 "Taoist robe"

or

"Robe of the Dao"

It is worn by middle-rank Taoist priests.[34] It is red in colour and is covered with decorations, such as bagua and cranes.[27] Unknown – Present
Daoyi 道衣 A wide-sleeved, cross-collared gown worn by Taoist priests and nuns; it is a standard type of clothing.[35] Unknown- Present
De luo 得罗 An indigo formal ritual clothing, worn by Taoism priests in the Quanzhen order; the blue colour is a symbolism for the East.[27] It is cross-collared.[32] Unknown – Present
Da gua 大褂 "Great gown"[27] It is a common type of informal, daily clothing worn by Taoists; in present days, it is mostly narrow-sleeved and blue in colour.[32] Unknown – Present
Jieyi 戒衣 "Precept robes"[28] or "ordination robes" It is a large sleeved, monochrome yellow-coloured, cross-collar robe with black trims.[28][32][36] Unknown- Present

Handwear

Gloves and mitts

  • Han mitts, Mawangdui Tomb, Han dynasty.
    Han mitts, Mawangdui Tomb, Han dynasty.

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d e f g "Secrets of Women's Underwear". www.chinadaily.com.cn. Retrieved 2022-01-10.
  2. ^ a b "Hanfu History of Ancient Chinese Underwear – 2022". www.newhanfu.com. 2020. Retrieved 2022-01-11.
  3. ^ a b Cho, Woohyun; Yi, Jaeyoon; Kim, Jinyoung (2015). "The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of theTerlig". Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae. 68 (3): 22–29. doi:10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2. ISSN 0001-6446.
  4. ^ a b Finnane, Antonia (2008). Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation. New York: Columbia University Press. p. 45. ISBN 978-0-231-14350-9. OCLC 84903948.
  5. ^ 周锡保 (Oct 1986), 《中国古代服饰史》 (PDF) (in Chinese) (2nd ed.), 中国戏剧出版社, p. 263, retrieved May 17, 2009
  6. ^ 朱和平 (July 2001), 《中国服饰史稿》 (PDF) (in Chinese) (1st ed.), 中州古籍出版社, pp. 222–223, retrieved May 20, 2009
  7. ^ a b Milburn, Olivia; Yan, Ying (2015). The Spring and autumn annals of Master Yan. Leiden: Brill. p. 319. ISBN 978-90-04-30966-1. OCLC 933295487.
  8. ^ Xu, Zhongguo Gudai Lisu Cidian, p. 7.
  9. ^ Chen, BuYun (2019), Riello, Giorgio; Rublack, Ulinka (eds.), "Wearing the Hat of Loyalty: Imperial Power and Dress Reform in Ming Dynasty China", The Right to Dress: Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, c.1200–1800, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, pp. 416–434, doi:10.1017/9781108567541.017, ISBN 978-1-108-47591-4, S2CID 165356490, retrieved 2021-02-16
  10. ^ 臧, 迎春 (2003). 臧, 迎春 (ed.). 中国传统服饰. 臧迎春, 李竹润. 五洲传播出版社. ISBN 7508502795.
  11. ^ Volpp, Sophie (June 2005). "The Gift of a Python Robe: The Circulation of Objects in "Jin Ping Mei"". Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies. 65 (1): 133–158. doi:10.2307/25066765. JSTOR 25066765.
  12. ^ "67". History of Ming. 忠静服仿古玄端服，色用深青，以纻丝纱罗为之。三品以上云，四品以下素，缘以蓝青，前后饰本等花样补子。深衣用玉色。素带，如古大夫之带制，青表绿缘边并里。素履，青绿绦结。白袜。
  13. ^ Sullivan, Lawrence R. (2021). Historical dictionary of Chinese culture. Nancy Liu-Sullivan. Lanham, Maryland. p. 173. ISBN 978-1-5381-4604-0. OCLC 1233321993.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  14. ^ Long, Wei; Lee, Eun-Young (2010-05-28). "Comparison of Aesthetics Between Han and Tang Dynasties Women Costumes". Korean Association of Human Ecology: 125–126. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-04-10.
  15. ^ "Types and Wear Styles of Tang Dynasty Women's Clothing". www.newhanfu.com. 10 November 2020. Retrieved 2021-04-10.
  16. ^ a b c "Study on Jianqun(striped skirt) in Archaeological Data from the Jin to Tang Dynasties--《Archaeology and Cultural Relics》2010年02期". en.cnki.com.cn. Retrieved 2021-04-10.
  17. ^ Chen, Buyun (2019). Empire of style : silk and fashion in Tang China. Seattle: University of Washington Press. p. 84. ISBN 978-0-295-74531-2. OCLC 1101879641.
  18. ^ Chen, Buyun (2019). Empire of style : silk and fashion in Tang China. Seattle: University of Washington Press. p. 52. ISBN 978-0-295-74531-2. OCLC 1101879641.
  19. ^ a b c d e f g Hua, Mei; 华梅 (2004). Zhongguo fu shi (Di 1 ban ed.). Beijing: Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she. ISBN 7-5085-0540-9. OCLC 60568032.
  20. ^ a b c "Guide to Traditional Chinese Clothing – Hanfu". www.newhanfu.com. 2 November 2020. Retrieved 2021-03-12.
  21. ^ a b c d "Skirt (China), 19th century". Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. Retrieved 2021-04-10.
  22. ^ Bonds, Alexandra B. (2008). Beijing opera costumes : the visual communication of character and culture. Honolulu: University of Hawaiʻi Press. p. 168. ISBN 978-1-4356-6584-2. OCLC 256864936.
  23. ^ Anonymous (2018-10-31). "Rainbow Skirt". Cleveland Museum of Art. Retrieved 2021-04-10.
  24. ^ Styling Shanghai. Christopher Breward, Juliette MacDonald. London, UK. 2020. pp. 47–50, 54. ISBN 978-1-350-05114-0. OCLC 1029205918.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  25. ^ a b "Daoist Headdresses and Dress – Scarlet Robe". taoism.org.hk. Archived from the original on 6 March 2008.
  26. ^ "High Priest of the Shaolin Monastery". Newhanfu.
  27. ^ a b c d e The encyclopedia of taoism. Fabrizio Pregadio. Richmond: Curzon. 2002. p. 457. ISBN 978-1-135-79634-1. OCLC 810277082.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  28. ^ a b c d e f Herrou, Adeline (2016). A World of Their Own : Daoist Monks and Their Community in Contemporary China. St Petersburg: Three Pines Press. p. 47. ISBN 978-1-365-53752-3. OCLC 1011219060.
  29. ^ "Collecting Silk · Mellon Projects". glam.uoregon.edu. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  30. ^ a b Dusenberry, Mary M. (2004). Flowers, dragons and pine trees : Asian textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art. Carol Bier, Helen Foresman Spencer Museum of Art (1 ed.). New York: Hudson Hills Press. p. 136. ISBN 1-55595-238-0. OCLC 55016186.
  31. ^ a b c "From the Land of the Immortals | RISD Museum". risdmuseum.org. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  32. ^ a b c d e "What is Taoist Clothing? – 2021". www.newhanfu.com. 2020. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  33. ^ "Daoist priest's robe 18th century". www.metmuseum.org. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  34. ^ "Daopao (Taoist priest's robe) | RISD Museum". risdmuseum.org. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  35. ^ Komjathy, Louis (2013). The Daoist tradition : an introduction. London. ISBN 978-1-4411-1669-7. OCLC 819275585.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  36. ^ The encyclopedia of taoism. Fabrizio Pregadio. Richmond: Curzon. 2002. pp. 286, 457. ISBN 978-1-135-79634-1. OCLC 810277082.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
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