2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
|2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships|
|Venue||Olympiaworld Innsbruck, Kletterzentrum Innsbruck, Marktplatz|
|Start date||6 September 2018|
|End date||16 September 2018|
|Competitors||834 from 58 nations|
Medal winners overview
|Men's Speed||Reza Alipour (IRI)||Bassa Mawem (FRA)||Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)|
|Men's Lead||Jakob Schubert (AUT)||Adam Ondra (CZE)||Alex Megos (GER)|
|Men's Bouldering||Kai Harada (JPN)||Jongwon Chon (KOR)||Gregor Vezonik (SLO)|
|Men's Overall||Jakob Schubert (AUT)||Adam Ondra (CZE)||Jan Hojer (GER)|
|Women's Speed||Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL)||Anna Brozek (POL)||Mariia Krasavina (RUS)|
|Women's Lead||Jessica Pilz (AUT)||Janja Garnbret (SLO)||Kim Ja-in (KOR)|
|Women's Bouldering||Janja Garnbret (SLO)||Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)||Staša Gejo (SRB)|
|Women's Overall||Janja Garnbret (SLO)||Sol Sa (KOR)||Jessica Pilz (AUT)|
The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The womens' qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the mens' was held the following day at the same location. Womens' semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective mens' competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.
101 athletes attended the womens' lead competition. In the final penultimate climber Jessica Pilz was the first to top the route. Janja Garnbret came out as the last climber and topped the route as well. As both climbers had the same first tiebreaker by virtue of having topped the semi-final route the ranking was decided by their time on the final route, which Pilz had climbed faster and thus was awarded the Gold Medal. Bronze went to Kim Ja-in.
124 athletes attended the mens' lead competition. Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert achieved the same score (36+) on the final route. Innsbruck-born Schubert won the gold medal due to his better tie-breaker, having achieved the better score in the semi-final. The bronze medal went to Alex Megos (33.5)
The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.
94 athletes competed in the women's speed climbing event. Alexandra Rudzinska (7.56s) won the final of the speed competition over her Polish countrywoman Anna Brozek (7.91s). Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal in the small final against Aleksandra Kalucka, who false started.
|Round of 16||Quarter-finals||Semi-finals||Finals|
125 athletes competed in the men's speed competition. Reza Alipour (5.630s) won the final against Bassa Mawem (fell). In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (6.028s) won against QiXin Zhong (fell) and thus claimed the bronze medal.
|Round of 16||Quarter-finals||Semi-finals||Finals|
The bouldering event was held over four days. The qualifying took place at Kletterzentrum with the womens' qualification held on 11 September and the mens' on 12 September. Semi-finals and finals were held at the Olympiaworld on 14 September for the women and 15 September for the men.
112 athletes attended the womens' bouldering competition. In the bouldering final lead finalists Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, and Jessica Pilz made another appearance. The World Cup bouldering seasonal winner Miho Nonaka, reigning world champion Petra Klingler, and Stasa Gejo completed the final. Garnbret won gold over Noguchi and Gejo won bronze.
|1||Janja Garnbret||2T3z 7 7|
|2||Akiyo Noguchi||2T2z 4 3|
|3||Stasa Gejo||1T2z 1 6|
|4||Jessica Pilz||0T2z 0 4|
|5||Miho Nonaka||0T2z 0 4|
|6||Petra Klingler||0T0z 0 0|
150 athletes attended the mens' bouldering competition, making it the largest individual event at the World Championship. Kai Harada (4T4z 7 6) won the Gold medal over Jongwon Chon (3T4z 9 10) and Gregor Vezonik (3T4z 9 17). The reigning champion, Tomoa Narasaki, and the World Cup seasonal winner, Jernej Kruder, missed the cut to the final.
|1||Kai Harada||4T4z 7 6|
|2||Jongwon Chon||3T4z 9 10|
|3||Gregor Vezonik||3T4z 9 17|
|4||Keita Watabe||2T4z 6 10|
|5||Kokoro Fujii||2T2z 5 4|
|6||Nathan Phillips||1T2z 5 6|
In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.
The womens' and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the womens' on 15 September and the mens' on 16 September.
|1||Janja Garnbret||5.00||5||1 (4T4z 7 7)||1 (Top)|
|2||Sol Sa||12.00||1||2 (2T4z 9 18)||6 (23+)|
|3||Jessica Pilz||24.00||2||6 (1T2z 2 7)||2 (Top)|
|4||Akiyo Noguchi||54.00||6||3 (2T2z 6 6)||3 (31+)|
|5||Miho Nonaka||64.00||4||4 (2T2z 10 8)||4 (26+)|
|6||Petra Klingler||75.00||3||5 (2T2z 12 12)||5 (26+)|
|1||Jakob Schubert||4.00||2||1 (4T4z 8 4)||2 (37+)|
|2||Adam Ondra||10.00||5||2 (3T4z 8 6)||1 (42+)|
|3||Jan Hojer||24.00||1||4 (3T4z 8 6)||6 (26+)|
|4||Kai Harada||60.00||4||5 (3T3z 7 4)||3 (34+)|
|5||Tomoa Narasaki||72.00||6||3 (3T4z 6 5)||4 (34)|
|6||Kokoro Fujii||90.00||3||6 (2T4z 2 5)||5 (30+)|