2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships

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2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final 01.jpg
Venue Olympiaworld Innsbruck, Kletterzentrum Innsbruck, Marktplatz
Location Innsbruck, Austria
Start date 6 September 2018
End date 16 September 2018
Competitors 834 from 58 nations
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The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 September to 16 September 2018.[1]

Medal winners overview[edit]

Event Gold Silver Bronze
Individual Finals
Men's Speed  Reza Alipour (IRI)  Bassa Mawem (FRA)  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
Men's Lead  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Adam Ondra (CZE)  Alex Megos (GER)
Men's Bouldering  Kai Harada (JPN)  Jongwon Chon (KOR)  Gregor Vezonik (SLO)
Men's Overall  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Adam Ondra (CZE)  Jan Hojer (GER)
Women's Speed  Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL)  Anna Brozek (POL)  Mariia Krasavina (RUS)
Women's Lead  Jessica Pilz (AUT)  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Kim Ja-in (KOR)
Women's Bouldering  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)  Staša Gejo (SRB)
Women's Overall  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Sol Sa (KOR)  Jessica Pilz (AUT)

Lead[edit]

The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The womens' qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the mens' was held the following day at the same location. Womens' semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective mens' competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.

Women[edit]

101 athletes attended the womens' lead competition. In the final penultimate climber Jessica Pilz was the first to top the route. Janja Garnbret came out as the last climber and topped the route as well. As both climbers had the same first tiebreaker by virtue of having topped the semi-final route the ranking was decided by their time on the final route, which Pilz had climbed faster and thus was awarded the Gold Medal. Bronze went to Kim Ja-in.

Rank Name Score
1 Austria Jessica Pilz Top
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Top
3 South Korea Kim Ja-in 34+
4 Japan Mei Kotake 33+
5 United States Ashima Shiraishi 32
6 Belgium Anak Verhoeven 31+
7 Slovenia Mia Krampl 31+
8 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 31+
9 Austria Hannah Schubert 31+
10 Italy Laura Rogora 24+

Men[edit]

124 athletes attended the mens' lead competition. Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert achieved the same score (36+) on the final route. Innsbruck-born Schubert won the gold medal due to his better tie-breaker, having achieved the better score in the semi-final. The bronze medal went to Alex Megos (33.5)

Rank Name Score
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 36+
2 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 36+
3 Germany Alex Megos 33.5
4 Japan Meichi Narasaki 31+
5 Slovenia Domen Škofic 29+
6 Czech Republic Jakub Konecny 29+
6 Japan Tomoaki Takata 29+
8 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 23
9 Italy Marcello Bombardi 20+
10 Japan Kai Harada 16+

Speed[edit]

The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.

Women[edit]

94 athletes competed in the women's speed climbing event. Alexandra Rudzinska (7.56s) won the final of the speed competition over her Polish countrywoman Anna Brozek (7.91s). Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal in the small final against Aleksandra Kalucka, who false started.

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Finals
            
Aleksandra Rudzinska 8.162
CuiLian He 10.367
Aleksandra Rudzinska 7.830
Patrycja Chudziak 7.880
Elizaveta Ivanova 8.304
Patrycja Chudziak 8.159
Aleksandra Rudzinska 7.775
Aleksandra Kalucka 11.971
Aleksandra Kalucka 8.038
Natalia Kalucka 8.274
Aleksandra Kalucka WC
Anna Tsyganova FS
Anna Tsyganova 7.978
Di Niu 8.037
Aleksandra Rudzinska 7.650
Anna Brozek 7.910
Anouck Jaubert FL
Alla Marenych 8.395
Alla Marenych 8.174
Anna Brozek 7.961
Anna Brozek 7.908
Iuliia Kaplina 8.437
Anna Brozek WC
Anna Tsyganova FS
Mariia Krasavina 8.264
Ekaterina Barashchuck 8.302
Mariia Krasavina 7.713
YiLing Song 8.906
YiLing Song 8.362
Victoire Andrier FL


Men[edit]

125 athletes competed in the men's speed competition. Reza Alipour (5.630s) won the final against Bassa Mawem (fell). In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (6.028s) won against QiXin Zhong (fell) and thus claimed the bronze medal.

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Finals
            
Reza Alipour 6.144
Jordan Fishman 8.977
Reza Alipour 5.808
Kostiantyn Pavlenko 6.021
Kostiantyn Pavlenko 6.228
Leonardo Gontero fell
Reza Alipour 5.709
Stanislav Kokorin 5.836
Vladislav Deulin 6.053
Dmitrii Timofeev 12.236
Vladislav Deulin 5.904
Stanislav Kokorin 5.832
Stanislav Kokorin 5.953
Aleksandr Shilov 6.438
Reza Alipour 5.630
Bassa Mawem FL
Bassa Mawem WC
Amir Maimuratov FS
Bassa Mawem 5.714
Jan Kriz 6.466
Ludovico Fossali FS
Jan Kriz WC
Bassa Mawem 5.638
QiXin Zhong 7.540
Aleksandr Shikov 5.851
PengHui Lin 6.044
Aleksandr Shikov 6.354
QiXin Zhong 5.609
QiXin Zhong 5.993
Marcin Dzienski 6.428

Bouldering[edit]

The bouldering event was held over four days. The qualifying took place at Kletterzentrum with the womens' qualification held on 11 September and the mens' on 12 September. Semi-finals and finals were held at the Olympiaworld on 14 September for the women and 15 September for the men.

Women[edit]

112 athletes attended the womens' bouldering competition. In the bouldering final lead finalists Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, and Jessica Pilz made another appearance. The World Cup bouldering seasonal winner Miho Nonaka, reigning world champion Petra Klingler, and Stasa Gejo completed the final. Garnbret won gold over Noguchi and Gejo won bronze.

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 2T3z 7 7
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 2T2z 4 3
3 Serbia Stasa Gejo 1T2z 1 6
4 Austria Jessica Pilz 0T2z 0 4
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 0T2z 0 4
6 Switzerland Petra Klingler 0T0z 0 0

Men[edit]

150 athletes attended the mens' bouldering competition, making it the largest individual event at the World Championship. Kai Harada (4T4z 7 6) won the Gold medal over Jongwon Chon (3T4z 9 10) and Gregor Vezonik (3T4z 9 17). The reigning champion, Tomoa Narasaki, and the World Cup seasonal winner, Jernej Kruder, missed the cut to the final.

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Kai Harada 4T4z 7 6
2 South Korea Jongwon Chon 3T4z 9 10
3 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 3T4z 9 17
4 Japan Keita Watabe 2T4z 6 10
5 Japan Kokoro Fujii 2T2z 5 4
6 United Kingdom Nathan Phillips 1T2z 5 6

Combined[edit]

In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.

The womens' and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the womens' on 15 September and the mens' on 16 September.

Women[edit]

Rank Name Score Speed Bouldering Lead
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 5.00 5 1 (4T4z 7 7) 1 (Top)
2 South Korea Sol Sa 12.00 1 2 (2T4z 9 18) 6 (23+)
3 Austria Jessica Pilz 24.00 2 6 (1T2z 2 7) 2 (Top)
4 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 54.00 6 3 (2T2z 6 6) 3 (31+)
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 64.00 4 4 (2T2z 10 8) 4 (26+)
6 Switzerland Petra Klingler 75.00 3 5 (2T2z 12 12) 5 (26+)

Men[edit]

Rank Name Score Speed Bouldering Lead
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 4.00 2 1 (4T4z 8 4) 2 (37+)
2 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 10.00 5 2 (3T4z 8 6) 1 (42+)
3 Germany Jan Hojer 24.00 1 4 (3T4z 8 6) 6 (26+)
4 Japan Kai Harada 60.00 4 5 (3T3z 7 4) 3 (34+)
5 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 72.00 6 3 (3T4z 6 5) 4 (34)
6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 90.00 3 6 (2T4z 2 5) 5 (30+)

References[edit]

External links[edit]