Peter Golding

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Peter Golding
Peter Golding.jpg
Born
NationalityBritish
OccupationFashion Designer
Musician

Peter Golding FCSD created the first "designer jean" in 1970, opened his clothing store ACE on London's King's Road Chelsea in 1974 and created the world's first stretch denim jean in 1978. He was the first fashion designer to be invited to join what is now known as the Chartered Society of Designers, and in 2004 was invited by The Queen to Buckingham Palace in recognition of his contribution to British design.

He has been described by Fashion Weekly as "the Eric Clapton of denim".[1]

Beginnings and the Beat Hotel, Paris[edit]

Outside The Beat Hotel Paris: Peter Golding, Madame Rachou (Proprietor) and Robin Page, Peter's busking partner

Golding came from an academic family background, and became a clothing industry management trainee and production manager in his teenage years. An early trip to Paris saw him busk in the streets on blues harp and guitar, and take up residence at No. 9 Git le Coeur, later known as the Beat Hotel,[2][3] a renowned hangout of Anglo-American beat artists and performers. Peter features in books on the beat generation by photographers Harold Chapman [4] and Mike Evans.[5]

After leaving Paris, Golding embarked on a 20,000 kilometre excursion with friend Michael Kay. The pair rode Lambretta Scooters and travelled overland to Jerusalem before heading on to Athens and then through Turkey and the Middle East, appearing on television in Beirut and on Radio Jordan and working as film extras. [6]

Fashion design and consultancy[edit]

On his return Golding worked for the Rael-Brook shirt company as a designer, combining his technical experience with his artistic background, before setting up Peter Golding Associates, one of the first professional fashion design consultancies with offices in Chancery Lane and later, Savile Row. He attracted international clients such as Viyella International, Phillips-Van Heusen (US), The International Institute for Cotton, The International Wool Secretariat, ICI (UK), Fabwerke Hoechst AG (Germany) and Hystron Fibers Inc (US), McGregor-Doniger (US), Barracuta (UK) among others.

A series of 'firsts' followed. The introduction of the 'Peter Golding' label was with the first madras cotton shirts from India (sourced while travelling in India and Nepal)and sold through the early London boutiques – Just Men, John Michael and the Westerner and beyond with celebrity customers including the Beatles. The International Wool Secretariat promoted his designs as the first men's unconstructed clothing collection using double knit-wool jersey and also for Project Adam, chaired by Stirling Moss for the advancement of ergonomic clothing.

In 1970 with a commission from Falmer Company Ltd[7] he created what can be considered the world's 'first designer jean' 'Peter Golding for Falmer'.This successful line was followed in 1973 with Peter Golding bleached denim jeanswear which was distributed by Jean Machine and Mayfair Fashions in the UK. In that year Golding also exported these jeans and jackets to the United States through the Brittania Company in Seattle thus introducing the first bleached denim jeanswear to America.

Golding was a visiting lecturer at the Royal College of Art, and was invited to join the Society of Industrial Artists and Designers which today is known as The Chartered Society of Designers of which he is a fellow and previously an assessor for student membership both in the UK and Hong Kong.[8]

Ace[edit]

In 1974, Golding opened his flagship store, ACE,[9] in London's King's Road, with sculptures by Andrew Logan and an interior described by European Fashion Guide as "glittering":

This may be the "hottest" store in the world. There is nothing inside here that does not glitter: the jeans, the shirts, the walls and the people. The black walls shine under silver lights, music plays continuously, and there’s no telling what stars may pop in – Liza Minnelli, Rod Stewart, Bianca Jagger or the Rolling Stones’...models,rock stars,movie people and lords and princesses come here for clothes that Golding designs to be both fun and sexy. Famous are the Golding jeans which fit like a second skin.. Alan Flusser – European Fashion Guide US 1977)

Clients included The Rolling Stones, Mick Jagger, Rod Stewart, Freddie Mercury, Queen, Britt Ekland, Twiggy, Yoko Ono, David Bailey, Bianca Jagger, David Bowie, Joan Collins, David Niven, Mary Quant, the Princess of Wales, Cliff Richard, Cilla Black, Ava Gardner, Marlon Brando, Bryan Ferry, Dudley Moore, Richard Burton, Adam Ant, Ossie Clark, Julie Christie, Jerry Hall, Jack Nicholson, Ringo Starr, Liza Minnelli, Zandra Rhodes, and Cher.1984 Ritz Newspaper.The store is mentioned in Bill Wyman's Rolling with the Stones in an anecdote where Keith Richards attempts to try on Peter Golding stretch jeans, but instead takes several pairs on spec.

When the store closed in 1984 an advertisement was taken out in Ritz magazine to thank the celebrity clientele – the "Lords and Ladies of the night" which has become known as the "Ace Goodbyes".[10]

Original stretch denim jean[edit]

Original Rockfit
PG Original Stretch Jean Ticket 1978

PG's ACE store was the platform from which Golding created and launched the world's First Stretch Denim Jean[11] in 1978 which was soon popular with its British and international star-studded clientele.[12]

Design development and early production began in the mid-1970s, as a response to the changing profile of the average jeans wearer. Golding found the solution to the demand for close-fitting jeans in a Japanese stretch indigo denim fabric (96% cotton 4% spandex) and then a sateen stretch fabric in black and plain dyed colours.

The original product was launched in the UK through the ACE store and other outlets, but was swiftly marketed in the US with success, stocked by American celebrity retailers including Fred Segal and Bloomingdales, and worn by LA's Hollywood and music fraternity including: The Rolling Stones, Guns N' Roses, Fleetwood Mac, Madonna, Jeff Beck, Stray Cats, Daryl Hall, John Oates, Van Halen, Gloria Estefan, Janet Jackson, Steve Miller and many others. His distinctive cuts featured his Rock Fit, Chelsea Cut, Two-way Stretch and The Original Stretch Boot Cut.

Production of the stretch jean required an in-depth study of the performance of the fabric – namely shrinkage and stretchability and fit. The Peter Golding brand remained dedicated to the design and technology of stretch denim and other fabrics right through the eighties and nineties into the 2000s,as the brand expanded the range to include numerous jean fits, skirts, and jackets as well as his Ace inspired glamorous T-shirts and tops.

In October 2002, Jerry Hall[13] featured in an article by Hilary Alexander for the Daily Telegraph with photographs by David Bailey to celebrate "The 25th Anniversary of Peter Golding's Stretch Jeans".[14] British society girl Tamara Beckwith then became the jean's photographic model, being featured in various press articles[15] as well as in Hello and OK celebrity Magazines.

Rock art collection[edit]

Peter Golding is also known for his collection of Rock and Roll Art – 'Inspirational Times'.[16] The collection had its beginnings at a “happening” in Hyde Park in 1967, when Golding picked up a hand-drawn poster from the ground, which grew to be one of the most comprehensive collections of its kind. [16]

A selection went to auction under the title 'The Peter Golding Collection of Rock & Roll Art' at Bonhams in New York in May 2008, as a first showing of its kind with a San Francisco and Los Angeles preview in April. The first publicised and curated exhibition for Inspirational Times was held in London in 2003 courtesy of Sotheby's Olympia.[16][17]

A celebrity crowd, including The Marquis of Bath, Jeff Beck, Leo Sayer, Noel Gallagher, John Hurt, 'Whispering' Bob Harris and Richard Young attended the gala opening.[18] The evening and exhibition was extensively featured in the British press.[19][20] Golding was also a major lender to Tate Liverpool’s 'Summer Of Love' exhibition in 2005,[21] and then at The Whitney Museum New York in 2007.[22] [17][16]

Music[edit]

Peter Golding plays the harmonica, guitar and piano. Golding’s influences are blues musicians from the USA and European jazz musicians such as Django Reinhardt. Golding played in US clubs and on blues cruises with fellow musicians including Slim Jim Phantom of The Stray Cats at his ‘Cat Club’ on Hollywood’s Sunset Strip. [23]In 1990 his band The Ace All Stars , including Chris Jagger, Shuggy Otis and April De Silva, was invited to headline a Valentine’s Ball charity event for Mencap at The Royal Alber Hall. The event also featured actresses Sally Farmiloe and Elizabeth Hurley and Jerry Hall. Other guests included Vicount Weymouth and Larry Adler.[24]

Golding recorded his 1997 album Stretching The Blues with blues musicians, including Otis Grand, Doris Troy and Slim Jim Phantom[23] with its launch as a music and fashion party at the Café De Paris, London. Friends and guests included; Leo SayerKid Creole, The Marquis of Bath, Lynne Franks, Zandra Rhodes and Hilary Alexander.

In 2001 the Adler family invited Golding to play the harmonica alongside Sir George Martin, Ned Sherrin and Issy Van Randwyck at the tribute to the late harmonica virtuoso, Larry Adler. The concert took place at the Arts Centre in Leicester Square, London.[25]

Golding plays Harmonica in his jump Blues band, “PG & The T-Bones”. The Band’s former residencies include the Chelsea Arts club and the 100 Club; His current band “Café Django”, describe their sound as harmonica-led swing and Gypsy Jazz.[25] and continue to play the Chelsea Arts Club as well as other London venues.

ICA Culture Now 2013[edit]

Peter Golding was invited by the Institute of Contemporary Arts The Mall SW1, to participate in their 'Culture Now'[26] lunchtime series in February 2013. He was 'in conversation' with Chris Sullivan, journalist, contemporary author and commentator, with a discussion and power point presentation of Golding's fashion and design heritage as well as his music and rock art interests.

Rock Graphics Originals (Book)[edit]

Rock Graphic Originals: Revolutions in Sonic Art from Plate to Print ‘55–’88 presents counterculture’s psychedelic poster art from its beat origins to its stadium rock zenith. Portfolios of 30+ poster artists – Rick Griffin, Victor Moscoso, Mouse Kelley and Hapshash among them – are laid bare for all to see. For the first time, the sketchbooks and paste-ups, the printing plates and colour separations are unviled to reveal the layers of process integral to the design of each poster.[27][28] Rock Graphic Originals is packed with more than 750 examples of posters, artworks and logos, created for the bands that epitomise their era, their sound and their scene – in San Francisco and the west coast, Detroit and New York, Swinging London and revolutionary Paris. Rock legends promoted in the posters include Big Brother and the Holding Company, Grateful Dead, Quicksilver Messenger Service, Moby Grape, Frank Zappa & the Mothers of Invention, Captain Beefheart, the Doors, the Velvet Underground, Jimi Hendrix, Tim Buckley, the Yardbirds, Cream, Led Zeppelin and many more.[28][29]

Bibliography[edit]

  • Rodney Bennett-England (1967) Dress Optional: The Revolution in Menswear – Publisher, Peter Owen Ltd. London ISBN 9780720601107
  • The Design Council Educational (1986) Designers Talking: Peter Golding, Fashion Designer :Plus VHS.
  • Harold Chapman (1984) The Beat Hotel Paris: Editor Banal Gris
  • Bill Wyman, (2002) Rolling with the Stones – Publisher, Dorling Kindersley Ltd. London ISBN 9780751346466
  • Paul Gorman, (2006) The Look: Adventures in Rock and Pop Fashion – Publisher, Adelita Ltd. London, ISBN 978-0-9552017-0-7
  • Mike Evans (2007) The Beats: From Kerouac to Kesey, an Illustrated Journey Through the Beat Generation – Publisher, Running Press Book Publishers. New York, ISBN 978-0762430482
  • Gary Italiaander (2014) Reflections: A Tribute to Larry Adler, Harmonica Genius – Publisher, Delancy Press. London, ISBN 9781907205255
  • Peter Golding (2018) Rock Graphic Originals: Revolutions in Sonic Art from Plate to Print '55 -'88. By Peter Golding with Barry Miles, Publishers Thames & Hudson, London ISBN 978-0500293539 [27]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Tredre, Roger (16 February 1989). ""The Great Survivor"". Fashion Weekly. London.
  2. ^ "The Beat Hotel Documentary". IMDb.com. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  3. ^ "Trailer | The Beat Hotel". Thebeathotelmovie.com. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  4. ^ Chapman, Harold (1984). The Beat Hotel. Gris Banal. ISBN 9782903942021.
  5. ^ Evans, Mike (2007). The Beats: From Kerouac to Kesey, an Illustrated Journey Through the Beat Generation. Running Press. ISBN 0762430486.
  6. ^ "Fashion Design and Consultancy". Fashionnepal's Weblog. 28 February 2009. Retrieved 12 July 2019.
  7. ^ "Falmer Jeans & Waistcoat | 70s Fashion". Escapetotheseventies.com. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  8. ^ "Culture Now: Peter Golding | Institute of Contemporary Arts". Ica.org.uk. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  9. ^ "Ace: "Purveyor of funky elegance" « Paul Gorman is…". Paulgormanis.com. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  10. ^ ""Ace Goodbyes"". Ritz Newspaper. London: Bailey Litchfield Productions Ltd. 20 September 1984.
  11. ^ Jacobs, Catherine. "Stretch Jeans Guide - Everything You Need to Know". Jeans.about.com. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  12. ^ "Stretch Jeans Guide - Everything You Need to Know". denimology.com.
  13. ^ "Jerry Hall is planning a country and western album and a cartoon | British Vogue". Vogue.co.uk. 26 November 2002. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  14. ^ Vogue. "JERRY'S GOT IT HALL GOING ON". British Vogue. Retrieved 15 July 2019.
  15. ^ "British Brand Worth Stretching". China.org.cn. 16 June 2003. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  16. ^ a b c d "Rock arts History on Show". news.bbc.co.uk/.
  17. ^ a b Ignacio Villarreal (19 January 2003). "Inspirational Times at Sotheby's London". Artdaily.com. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  18. ^ "Inspirational Times | Peter Golding". Retrieved 12 July 2019.
  19. ^ "OK! magazine - Jennifer Ellison and Tony Richardson cover (28 January 2003 - Issue 351)". CrazyAboutMagazines. Retrieved 12 July 2019.
  20. ^ "OK! magazine - Jennifer Ellison and Tony Richardson cover (28 January 2003 - Issue 351)". CrazyAboutMagazines. Retrieved 12 July 2019.
  21. ^ Louise, Dany (7 June 2005). "Summer of Love, Tate Liverpool". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 12 July 2019.
  22. ^ "Denimology". Denimology. 2014. Retrieved 12 July 2019.
  23. ^ a b "Stretching the Blues - Pete Golding | Songs, Reviews, Credits". AllMusic. 27 May 1997. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  24. ^ "The Mencap Valentines Ball".
  25. ^ a b Peter Golding on Larry Adler Concert[1]
  26. ^ "Culture Now: Peter Golding | Institute of Contemporary Arts". Ica.org.uk. Retrieved 27 September 2016.
  27. ^ a b Golding, Peter,. Rock graphic originals : revolutions in sonic art from plate to print '55-'88. Miles, Barry, 1943-. London. ISBN 9780500293539. OCLC 1023525462.CS1 maint: extra punctuation (link) CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  28. ^ a b "Rock Graphic Originals". thamesandhudson.com. Retrieved 12 July 2019.
  29. ^ "Rock Graphic Originals". thamesandhudson.com. Retrieved 12 July 2019.

External links[edit]