Kimono

A traditional wedding kimono

Japanese woman in a kimono, circa 1870

A young kimono wearer; note the footwear.

Modern-day kimono use—women catching a train

Women in furisode kimonos dressed as maiko (apprentice geisha)

The Kimono (着物, literally "something worn", i.e., "clothes") is the national costume of Japan. Originally kimono indicated all types of clothing, but it has come to mean specifically the full-length traditional garment worn by women, men, and children. Kimonos are T-shaped, straight-lined robes that fall to the ankle, with collars and full-length sleeves. The sleeves are commonly very wide at the wrist, as much as a half meter. Traditionally, on special occasions unmarried women wear kimonos (furisode) with extremely long sleeves that extend almost to the floor. The robe is wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right (it is only wrapped with the right side over the left when dressing the deceased for burial) and secured by a wide belt (obi) tied in the back. Kimonos are generally worn with traditional footwear (especially geta, thonged wood-platform footwear; and zori, a type of thong-like footwear) and split-toe socks (tabi).

History and description

Today's kimonos trace their origins to garments that were originally heavily influenced by a traditional clothing of China called hanfu through extensive cultural exchanges between China and Yamato period Japan beginning in the fifth century ce. However, kimonos have seen much modification throughout Japan’s history, and many Chinese aspects were transformed into ones that met indigenous tastes and conditions more closely. The direct forerunners of modern kimono began to take shape during Japan's Heian period (794–1192 ce). Since then, the basic shape of both men’s and women’s kimonos, while remaining essentially unchanged, went through several modifications during Japan’s period of isolation.

Despite popular thought, kimonos are not a one size garment. They come in various lengths and widths. kimonos are often made to fit one wearer. One must find a kimono with a sleeve width that comes to each wrist when one's arms are at their sides. Secondly, a kimono should be as long as one is tall to allow for the Ohashori, or the tuck that can be seen under the obi. The Ohashori is created to pull down the back of the kimono so that the collar does not sit against the neck. Kimonos are made from a single bolt of fabric. The bolts come in standard dimensions, and all the fabric is used in the making of the kimono. All traditional kimonos are sewn by hand, and the fabrics from which they are created are also frequently hand made and hand decorated. Various techniques such as yūzen dye resist are used for applying decoration and patterns to the base cloth. Repeating patterns that cover a large area of a kimono are traditionally done with the yūzen resist technique and a stencil.

In the past, a kimono would often be entirely taken apart for washing, and then re-sewn for wearing. Modern fabrics and cleaning methods have been developed that eliminate this need. However, the washing of kimonos in the traditional way can still be found. Basting stitches—long, loose stitches—are sometimes placed around the outside edges of the kimono for storage. They help to prevent bunching, folding and wrinkling, and keep the kimono's layers in alignment.

Over time there have been many variations in color, fabric and style, as well as accessories such as the obi.

History of textiles used

Textiles are perhaps the greatest treasure in Japan’s remarkable century old tradition of handicrafts. The Japanese techniques of weaving and dyeing was originally borrowed from Korea and China. In the eighth century, tribute between Japan and her neighboring countries, Korea and China was presented in bolts of silk and brocade. Over the centuries, the Japanese treasured and studied those textile offerings and began producing their own. The skills and a refined aesthetic have combined to produce some of Japan’s finest treasures. Since ancient times, textiles have been revered in Japan. According to legend, when the angry sun goddess plunged the world into darkness by hiding in a cave, other divinities enticed her out with a dance of blue and white textile banners.

How kimonos are made

As the traditional textiles of Japan were made primarily for personal attire, what we know today as the kimono determined not only the construction of the weaves and the patterning of the fabric but also the width of the cloth itself. A single bolt, or tan, of cloth measures about 9 meters by 30 centimeters. This is sufficient to make one kimono, whether for a man or a woman, regardless of height and weight. Thus kimono fabrics are sold by the bolt and rarely by the meter.

Patterns

The kimono pattern consists of four main strips of fabric. Two patterns form the panels covering the body and two panels for the sleeves. Additional smaller strips form the narrow front panel and collar.

Customarily, woven patterns and dyed repeat patterns are considered informal. Formal kimonos have free-style designs dyed over the whole surface or along the hem. Originally, the kimonos were worn in multiple layers of different colors. Up to a dozen or more colorful layers of contrasting colored kimonos would be worn. Today, the kimono is normally worn with a single layer on top of a slip style undergarment.

Parts of kimono patterns

• Doura: upper lining
• Eri: collar
• Fuki: hem guard
• Furi: sleeve below the armhole
• Maemigoro: front main panel
• Miyatsukuchi: opening under the sleeve
• Okumi: front inside panel
• Sode: sleeve
• Sodeguchi: sleeve opening
• Sodetsuke: kimono armhole
• Susomawashi: lower lining
• Tamoto: sleeve pouch
• Tomoeri: over collar
• Uraeri: inner collar
• Ushiromigoro: back main section
• Yuki: sleeve length

Changes in textiles used in kimonos

The formal kimono and obi belts were traditionally made of silk, silk brocade, silk crepes (such as chirimen) and satin weaves (such as rinzu). Due to production costs, limited availability of skilled weavers and craftsman, and the consumers economic and “easy care” demand, the kimono industry is working to accommodate consumer demand for less-expensive easy-care kimonos. Today, most formal kimonos are made of rayon, cotton sateen, cotton, polyester and other synthetic fibers except for the traditional wedding kimono.

Kimono styles

There are styles of kimono for various occasions, ranging from extremely formal to very casual. The level of formality of women's kimonos is determined mostly by the pattern and fabric, and also the color. Young women's kimonos have longer sleeves and tend to be more elaborate than similarly formal older women's kimonos. Men's kimonos are usually one basic shape and are mainly worn in subdued colors. Formality is also determined by the type and color of accessories, the fabric, and the number or absence of kamon (family crests). Silk is the most desirable, and most formal, fabric. Cotton is more casual. These days there are polyester kimonos as well; they are generally more casual.

Today, both men's and women's kimonos are increasingly available in different sizes. With the tradition of kimonos being made from a single bolt of cloth, larger sizes are difficult to find and very expensive to have made. Very tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, have kimonos custom-made.

Kimonos can be expensive. A woman's kimono may easily exceed US$10,000; a complete kimono outfit, with kimono, undergarments, obi, ties, socks, sandals and accessories, can exceed US$20,000. A single obi may cost several thousand dollars. In practice, however, most kimonos owned by typical kimono hobbyists or by practitioners of traditional arts are far less expensive. Enterprising people make their own kimonos and undergarments since they follow a standard pattern, or they recycle older kimonos. Cheaper and machine-made fabrics substitute for the traditional hand-dyed silk. There is also a thriving business in second-hand kimonos in Japan, and a second-hand kimono can cost as little as ¥500. Women's obi, however, mostly remain an expensive item. Although simple patterned or plain colored ones can cost as low as ¥1,500, they can cost hundreds of dollars, and they are difficult for inexperienced people to make. Men's obi, even those made from silk, tend to be much less expensive, because they are narrower and shorter than those worn by women.

Kimonos are never wasted. Old kimonos are recycled in various ways: they may be altered to make haori, hiyoku, or kimonos for children; the fabric may be used to patch similar kimonos; larger pieces of fabric may be used for making handbags and other similar kimono accessories; and smaller pieces can be used to make covers, bags or cases for various implements, especially things like the sweet-picks used in tea ceremony. Kimonos with damage below the waistline can also be worn under hakama to hide the damage. There were even those skilled in laboriously unpicking the silk thread from old kimonos and reweaving it into a new textile in the width of a heku obi for men's kimonos, this recycling weaving method is called Saki-Ori.

Today, kimonos are usually worn only on special occasions, and mostly by women. A few older women and even fewer men still wear kimonos on a daily basis. Men wear kimonos most often at weddings and for the tea ceremony. Kimonos are also worn by both men and women in certain sports, such as kendo. Professional sumo wrestlers frequently wear kimonos because they are required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever appearing in public outside the ring.

There are many kimono hobbyists in Japan, where people can even take courses on how to put on and wear kimonos. Classes cover selecting seasonally and event-appropriate patterns and fabrics, matching the kimono undergarments and accessories to the kimono, layering the undergarments according to subtle meanings, selecting and tying obi, and other topics. There are also clubs devoted to kimono culture, such as Kimono de Ginza.

Women's kimonos

Modern kimonos are not the elaborate affairs they used to be . Kimonos worn for festivals and other informal events can be only two layers, or one with a false under collar and a slip. These informal kimonos are worn with a simple patterned or single colored obi. Full formal kimonos are most often only worn by brides, geisha, or hostesses, or for very formal events.

Most Japanese women would be unable to properly put on a traditional kimono unaided, since the typical woman's outfit requires twelve or more separate pieces that must be worn, matched and secured in prescribed ways. Professional kimono dressers still help women put on kimonos, usually for special occasions. Kimono dressers must be licensed, and while they often work out of hair salons, many make house calls as well.

The choice of which type of kimono to wear is laden with symbolism and subtle social messages. The specific choice relates to the woman's age and marital status, and the level of formality of the occasion. In descending order of formality:

• Kurotomesode (黒留袖): a black kimono patterned only below the waistline, kurotomesode are the most formal kimonos for married women. They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at a wedding. Kurotomesode usually have five kamon printed on the sleeves, chest and back of the kimonos.
• Furisode (振袖): furisode literally translates as swinging sleeves—the sleeves of furisode average between 39 and 42 inches in length. Furisode are the most formal kimonos for unmarried women. They have patterns that cover the entire garment, and are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies (Seijin Shiki) and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions.
• Irotomesode (色留袖): a single-color kimono, patterned only below the waistline. Irotomesode are slightly less formal than kurotomesode, and are worn by married women, usually close relatives of the bride and groom at a wedding. An irotomesode may have three or five kamon.
• Hōmongi (訪問着): literally translates as visiting wear. Characterized by patterns that flow over the shoulders, seams and sleeves, hōmongi rank slightly higher than their close relative, the tsukesage. Hōmongi may be worn by both married and unmarried women; often friends of the bride will wear hōmongi at weddings and receptions. They may also be worn to formal parties, such as galas.
• Tsukesage (付け下げ): a tsukesage has more modest patterns that cover less area—mainly below the waist—than the more formal hōmongi. They may also be worn by married women.
• Iromuji (色無地): single-colored kimonos that may be worn by married and unmarried women. They are mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may be figured (rinzu, similar to jacquard), but has no differently colored patterns.
• Komon (小紋): fine pattern in English. Kimonos with a small, repeated pattern throughout the garment. Somewhat casual: may be worn around town, or dressed up with a nice obi for a restaurant. Both married and unmarried women may wear komon.
  • Edo Komon (江戸小紋): Edo komon is a type of komon characterized by tiny dots arranged in dense patterns that form larger designs. The Edo komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. A kimono with this type of pattern is of the same formality as an iromuji, and when decorated with kamon, may be worn as visiting wear (equivalent to a tsukesage or hōmongi).

The pattern of the kimono can also determine in what season it should be worn. For example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms would be worn in spring. Watery designs are common during the summer. A popular autumn motif is the russet leaf of the Japanese maple; for winter, designs may include bamboo, pine trees and ume blossoms.

Men's kimonos

In contrast to the woman's garment, men's kimono outfits are far simpler, typically consisting of a maximum of five pieces, not including socks and sandals.

A noticeable difference between men's and women's kimonos is the sleeves, these are completely attached to the body of the kimono or no more than an inch or three unattached at the bottom, whereas women's have very deep sleeves and most of their depth is unattached from the body of the kimono. Men's sleeves are less deep than women's kimono sleeves because an obi has to fit round the waist beneath them, whereas on a woman's kimono, the long, unattached bottom of the sleeve can hang over the obi without getting in the way of it. In the modern era, the principal distinctions between men's kimonos are in the fabric. The typical kimono has a subdued, dark color; black, dark blues and greens, and occasionally brown are common. Fabrics are usually matte. Some have a subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are common in more casual kimonos. More casual kimonos may be of slightly brighter color, such as lighter purples, greens and blues. Sumo wrestlers have occasionally been known to wear quite bright colors such as fuchsia.

The most formal style of kimono is plain black with five kamon on the chest, shoulders and back. Slightly less formal is the three-kamon kimono. These are usually paired with white undergarments and accessories.

Almost any kimono outfit can be made more formal by adding hakama and haori (see below).

Kimono accessories and related garments

• Nagajuban (長襦袢) Beneath the kimono a nagajuban is worn. This is another kimono, usually shorter than the outer one, worn as underwear, complete with the long kimono sleeves, which are neatly fitted inside the outer kimono's sleeves. Silk kimonos are difficult to clean and often delicate; the nagajuban (sometimes just called a juban) helps keep the outer kimono clean by keeping it off the wearer's skin. Only the collar edge of the nagajuban shows from beneath the outer kimono. Many nagajuban have removable collars, to allow them to be changed and easily washed, without washing the entire garment. Nagajuban are often as beautifully ornate and patterned as the outer kimono. They are considered "hidden smartness" (粋 iki). Men's kimonos are usually fairly subdued in pattern and color; the man's nagajuban allowed him to discreetly wear a garment with very striking designs and colors. Men's nagajuban sometimes have designs referring to samurai, such as kabuto (helmets), or dragons, scenery (especially Mount Fuji scenes), auspicious animals, text and suchlike on them.
• Hadajuban (肌襦袢) A thin garment similar to an undershirt. It is worn under the nagajuban.
• Susoyoke (裾除け) A thin petticoat-like garment worn under the nagajuban. Sometimes the susoyoke and hadajuban are combined into a one-piece garment.
• Geta (下駄) are wooden sandals worn by men and women with yukata. A slightly different style of geta is worn by geisha.
• Hakama (袴) is a divided or undivided skirt, rather like a very wide pair of pants, traditionally worn only by men but now worn also by women, and also worn in certain martial arts such as aikido. A hakama typically has pleats, a koshiita (a stiff or padded part in the lower back of the wearer), and himo (long lengths of fabric tied around the waist over the obi, described below). Hakama are worn in several budo arts such as aikido, kendo, iaidō and naginata. Hakama are also worn by women at college graduation ceremonies. They can range from very formal to visiting wear, depending on pattern. While very formal women's outfits do not include hakama, men's usually do.
• Haori (羽織) is a hip- or thigh-length kimono coat which adds formality. Haori were originally reserved for men, until fashions changed at the end of the Meiji period. They are now worn by both men and women, though women's kimono jackets tend to be longer.
• Haori-himo (羽織紐) is a tasseled, woven string fastener for the haori. The most formal color is white.
• Jūnihitoe (十二単) is a twelve-layered-robe worn in ancient times by women at court. Today only worn during most formal occasions at court (imperial weddings, enthronement ceremony, etc.) or can be seen in museums.
• Hiyoku (ひよく) is a type of under-kimono, worn in previous times by women beneath the kimono. Today only worn on formal occasions (weddings, important social events).
• Kanzashi (簪) are hair ornaments worn in the coiffured hair style which often accompanies kimonos. These may take the form of silk flowers, wooden combs, jade hairpins etc..
• Obi (帯) is a Japanese sash or belt used to wrap around a kimono or yukata. Obi are generally worn differently depending on the occasion, and they are usually more intricate for women.
• Obi-ita (帯板) A thin, fabric covered board placed under the obi to keep its shape. Also called mae-ita.
• Datejime (伊達締め) A thin, but stiff sash worn under the obi to keep its shape.
• Koshi himo (腰紐)Thin sashes tied to keep the kimono in place while getting dressed.
• Tabi (足袋) are ankle-high, divided-toe socks usually worn with zori. They also come in a boot form.
• Waraji (草鞋) are straw rope sandals. Most often seen on monks.
• Yukata (浴衣): informal unlined summer kimono usually made of cotton, linen, or hemp. Yukata are most often worn to outdoor festivals, by men and women of all ages. They are also worn at onsen (hot spring) resorts, where they are often provided for the guests in the resort's own pattern.
• Zōri (草履) are cloth, leather or grass-woven sandals. Zori may be highly decorated with intricate stitching or with no decoration at all. They are worn by both men and women. Grass woven zori with white straps are the most formal for men. They are similar in design to flip-flops.

External links

• Tokyo National Museum Look for "textiles" under "decorative arts".
• Kyoto National Museum: Textiles
• The Costume Museum: Costume History in Japan
• Kimono Fraise; includes directions on how to put on a kimono
• What Japan Thinks; Kimono wearing and ownership A translation of a survey into contemporary views on kimonos
• Traditional Crafts of Japan: Follow the links titled Weaving, Dyeing, Other Fiber Crafts, Craft Materials
• Fashioning Kimono: Dress in early 20th century Japan