Famagusta

Gazimağusa
Αμμόχωστος (Greek) Gazimağusa (Turkish)
District	Famagusta
Population  (30 April 2006 SPO census)
• Total	35,453
Time zone	UTC+2 (EET)

Famagusta (Greek: Αμμόχωστος, Ammóchōstos, Turkish Gazimağusa) is a city on the east coast of Cyprus and is capital of the Famagusta District. It is located in a bay between Capes Greco and Eloea, east of Nicosia, and possesses the deepest harbour in the island. Since the 1974 Turkish invasion the city has resided in the de facto Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (recognised only by Turkey). The old tourist quarter of Varosha is abandoned pending a settlement of the Cyprus dispute.

Name

In antiquity, the town was known as Arsinoe (Greek: Ἀρσινόη), after Arsinoe II of Egypt, and was mentioned by that name by Strabo. It was also called Ammokhostos (meaning "hidden in sand") and it is still known by that name in Greek today. This name developed into the Famagusta used in Western European languages and the Turkish name, Mağusa. In full, its Turkish name is Gazi-Mağusa (Gazi is a Turkish prefix meaning veteran, and was awarded officially after 1974; compare Gaziantep.). Turks not of Cypriot origin tend to call the city 'Magosa.'

History

Founded in 300 BC on the old settlement of Arsinoe, Famagusta remained a small fishing village for a long period of time. Later, as a result of the gradual evacuation of Salamis, it developed into a small port.

Medieval Famagusta, 1192-1571

File:Othello tower.jpg

Othello's tower in Famagusta.

The turning point for Famagusta was 1192 with the onset of Lusignan rule. It was during this period that Famagusta developed as a fully-fledged town. It increased in importance to the Eastern Mediterranean due to its natural harbour and the walls that protected its inner town. Its population began to increase. This development accelerated in the 13th century as the town became a centre of commerce for both the East and West. An influx of Christian refugees fleeing the downfall of Acre (1291) in Palestine transformed it from a tiny village into one of the richest cities in Christendom. In 1372 the port was seized by Genoa and in 1489 by Venice. This commercial activity turned Famagusta into a place where merchants and ship owners led lives of luxury. The belief that people's wealth could be measured by the churches they built inspired these merchants to have churches built in varying styles. These churches, which still exist, were the reason Famagusta came to be known as "the district of churches". The development of the town focused on the social lives of the wealthy people and was centred upon the Lusignan palace, the Cathedral, the Square and the harbour.

Ottoman Famagusta, 1571–1878

In 1570-1571, Famagusta was the last stronghold in Cyprus to hold out against the Turks under Mustafa Pasha. It resisted a siege of thirteen months and a terrible bombardment, until at last the commander, Marco Antonio Bragadin was flayed alive, his lieutenant Tiepolo was hanged. [1] Lord Kinross, in his book, The Ottoman Centuries, describes the situation before the siege as follows:

"The Venetians had for some time neglected this far eastern outpost of their Mediterranean dominions, and its population had greatly declined. The bulk of it was composed of Greek Orthodox peasants who were enslaved and oppressed by the Frankish ruling class, and it was estimated that there were some fifty thousand serfs who would be ready to join the Turks. Sultan Selim (II) in a firman, or decree, now instructed his neighbouring sanjak bey to do his utmost to win the hearts of the masses, adding a solemn promise that in the event of the island's capture the population would not be molested and their property would be respected. Such was a formula, here strictly observed, which had for long preceded acts of Turkish expansion."

He describes the situation of the island after fall/conquest of Famagusta as follows:

"Venice was to cede the island to the Sultan two years later in a peace treaty which allowed for compensation sufficient to cover the cost of its conquest. Its subsequent administration was enlighted enough, following the standard Ottoman practice at this time in conquered territories. The former privileges of the Greek Orthodox Church were revived at the expense of the Latin Catholics, and its property restored to it. The Latin system of serfdom was abolished. The land which had formerly belonged to the Venetian nobility was transferred to the Ottoman state. The local inhabitants were assisted by the development of economic and financial resources. Large numbers of immigrants were brought from central Anatolia, with their cattle and farming implements, to settle in the empty islands."

At last, after the great calamity which had reduced the island to misery, somehow or other the poverty-stricken inhabitants began little by little to address themselves again to the culture of the soil, to some small commerce with strangers, and to those few arts which still survived in the he towns. At the very beginning the dues and outgoings did not press so very had on the rajah, because the Porte knew how the country had been impoverished by the war: and the Pashas sent to govern it were to some extent controlled by the Porte, lest their harshness should drive the rajah to leave the island, or at least to revolt, for which his degraded condition would be an excuse. So that after fifteen or twenty years the Christians redeemed nearly all the monasteries from those who had seized them, and much of the church lands as well. Churchmen of position left money for masses for the repose of their souls, or bestowed it by way of gifts.

Changes in social and cultural life had a major effect on the architectural and physical environment. In order to adjust to the socio- economic and cultural traditions of the new inhabitants, some changes were made to existing buildings. Only the main cathedral was turned into a mosque (Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque), and the bazaar and market place were developed. Meanwhile a theological school, baths and fountains were built to fulfill basic daily needs. With the importation of dead end streets from Ottoman culture, the existing organic town structure was enriched and a communal spirit began to assert itself. The few two-storey houses inhabited by the limited number of wealthy people balanced harmoniously with the more common one-storey houses.

British rule, 1878-1960

The ramparts in Famagusta.

In the British period, the port regained significance. The enlargement of the town outside the city walls in the Ottoman period accelerated. In this period, the Turkish population generally settled in the inner town while the Greek population settled in lower and upper Varosha. In tune with their colonial policies, the British set up an administrative base between the Turkish and Greek quarters rather than following the convention of establishing a base in the inner town. As a result, the enlargement of the town was increasingly centred around the Varosha district. Towards the end of the British period, in parallel with socio-economic developments, and in order to meet the changing needs of the population, new residential districts were built, incorporating new housing, commercial, touristic and recreational areas. Varosha was developed in large part as a tourist resort.

In this period, the town underwent a change reflecting the then current colonial practices. The influence of British architecture was particularly apparent in the form, the details and the materials used. The British, who believed in getting close to communities under their rule by using local materials and details, employed the same practice in Famagusta. The Cyprus Government Railway, with the head offices located in Famagusta, is said to have transformed Famagusta from an old Turkish town into a modern harbour city of the Levant.

The city was also the site for one of the two British internment camps for nearly 50.000 Jewish survivors of the Holocaust trying to emigrate to the British Mandate of Palestine. The other camp was located at Xylophaghou (see Jews in British camps on Cyprus).

After Independence, 1960-1974

From independence in 1960 to the Turkish intervention of 1974, Famagusta flourished both culturally and economically. The town developed toward the south west of Varosha as a tourist center. In the late 1960s Famagusta became one of the world's best-known entertainment and tourist centres. On the one hand there were structures conveying the characteristics of British colonialism, and, on the other hand, buildings reflecting trends in contemporary architecture. These modern buildings were mostly built in Varosha. Architecture in Famagusta in this period thus reflects a desire to merge history and modernism in the pursuit of progress. From its origins as a small port in the seventh century, Famagusta in the 1970s had become a town which now displayed the universal trends of the modern architectural movement.

The contribution of Famagusta to the country’s economic activity by 1974 far exceeded its proportional dimensions within the country. Apart from possessing over 50% of the total accommodation of Cyprus it also offered the most substantial deep-water port handling (1973) 83% of the total general cargo and 49% of the total passenger traffic to and from the island. Whilst its population was only about 7% of the total of the country, Famagusta by 1974 accounted for over 10% of the total industrial employment and production of Cyprus, concentrating mainly on light industry compatible with its activity as a tourist resort and turning out high quality products ranging from food, beverages and tobacco to clothing, footwear, plastics, small machinery and transport equipment.

As capital of the largest administrative district of the country, the town was the administrative, commercial, service and cultural centre of that district. The district of Famagusta before the 1974 invasion was characterized by a strong and balanced agricultural economy based on citrus fruits, potatoes, tobacco and wheat. Its agricultural success and the good communications between the town and the district ensured a balanced population spread and economic activity, which could be considered as a model for other developing areas.

It was inevitable that the material progress described above would spawn and sustain the most fertile kind of cultural activity in the area, with Famagusta as its hub and centre. Painting, poetry, music and drama were finding expression in innumerable exhibitions, folk art festivals and plays enacted in the nearby-reconstructed ruins of the ancient Greek theatre of Salamis.

There has not been an official census since 1960 but the population of the town in 1974 was estimated to be around 60,000 not counting about 12-15,000 persons commuting daily from the surrounding villages and suburbs to work in Famagusta. This population would swell during the peak summer tourist period to about 90-100,000 with the influx of tourists from numerous European countries, mainly Britain, France, Germany and Scandinavia.

Since 1974

During the second phase of the Turkish invasion of Cyprus of 14 August 1974 the Mesaoria plain was overrun by Turkish tanks and in two days the Turkish Army was in Famagusta. The town had been completely evacuated by its Greek population who fled before the intervening army and after the town had been bombed by the Turkish air force.

Varosha viewed from Palm Beach Hotel [photo: RP 2005].

Varosha area in 2006

Unlike other parts of Northern Cyprus, the Varosha section of Famagusta was sealed off by the Turkish army immediately after being captured and remains in that state today. The Greek Cypriots who had fled from Varosha were not allowed to return, and journalists are banned. It has been frozen in time with department stores still full of clothes, now many years out of fashion, and hotels empty but still fully equipped. Swedish journalist Jan-Olof Bengtsson, who visited the Swedish UN battalion in Famagusta port and saw the sealed-off part of the town from the battalion’s observation post, called the area a 'ghost town'. He wrote in Kvällsposten on September 24, 1977),

"The asphalt on the roads has cracked in the warm sun and along the sidewalks bushes are growing [...] Today, September 1977, the breakfast tables are still set, the laundry still hanging and the lamps still burning [...] Famagusta is a ghost-town."

Turkish Cypriots continue to live north of Varosha, especially in the walled city. These sections of Famagusta remain vibrant with many fascinating buildings. The city is also home to the Eastern Mediterranean University.

The mayor-in-exile of Famagusta is Alexis Galanos. Oktay Kayalp heads the TRNC municipal administration. There have been suggestions from the Cypriot Government to transfer Varosha to UN administration, allow the return of the refugees, and open the harbour for use by both communities. However, the Turkish Cypriot side and Turkey rejected them. Varosha would have returned to Greek Cypriot control as part of the Annan Plan for Cyprus had the plan not been rejected by Greek Cypriot voters.

The population of the city before 1974 was 39,000. Of this number, 26,500 were Greek Cypriots, 8,500 Turkish Cypriots and 4,000 from other ethnic groups. After the invasion, in 1975, the population was 8,500, all of them Turks. Today the population that lives in the town is 39,000. The number does not include the Greek Cypriot legal inhabitants but the Turkish Cypriots and settlers who live there.

The town also played host to the football clubs Anorthosis, which has many trophies in Cyprus, and Nea Salamina Famagusta. Both teams used until 1974 the stadium of the town, the GSE Stadium (Gymnastic Club Evagoras Stadium) but after the abandonment of the city the teams moved to the town of Larnaca. Both teams have also volleyball sections. Anorthosis has the most trophies in volleyball. Salamina also was until 2003 the concecutive champion of Cyprus for more than 5 years.

Due to its relative isolation and neglect over the past 30 years despite being such a historically and culturally significant city, Famagusta was listed on the World Monuments Fund's 2008 Watch List of the 100 Most Endangered Sites in the world.

Notable Residents

• Dr. Derviş Eroğlu, a Turkish Cypriot politician
• George Vasiliou, former President of Cyprus
• Derviş Zaim, a Cypriot filmmaker, whose first novel won the prestigious "Yunus Nadi" literary prize in Turkey
• Chris Achilleos, a famous British Cypriot painter and illustrator was born there as was Turkish Cypriot-American actor
• Hal Ozsan ( Dawson's Creek , Kyle XY (b. 1976.)

Famagusta in 2002. Cranes remain where they were in 1974.

Sites of interest

Famagusta contains spectacular ruins, including a magnificent amphitheatre, Roman baths, a gymnasium and royal tombs. The mosaics are particularly beautiful. Just inland from Famagusta are the church and monastery dedicated to St. Barnabas, the founder of the apostolic Cypriot Orthodox Church in 45 AD. Barnabas, a Cypriot from Salamis who visited the island, accompanied by St. Paul and St. Mark and was later martyred in Salamis in 52 AD. The church of St. Barnabas is preserved exactly as it was since abandoned in 1976. There is a collection of 18th century icons and the monastery cloisters now houses an archaeological museum.

Famagusta harbour is dominated by a great citadel sometimes known as Othello's Tower in reference to the (fictional) play by Shakespeare. It contains a splendid 14th century Gothic Hall.

The Venetian Palace was used, after its destruction in 1571, during the Ottoman Empire as a prison, and among the prisoners was Namik Kemal, the National poet of the Ottoman Empire, who was held there between 1873 and 1876, after having been exiled to Cyprus by the Sultan.

See also

• Salamis, Cyprus
• Famagusta District
• Turkish invasion of Cyprus
• Cyprus dispute
• Ghost town
• United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus

References

Sources consulted

• Cyprus.gov.cy (online). Republic of Cyprus government website.
• Enlart, Camille (1899). L'art gothique et la Renaissance a Chypre. Paris, pp. 251–255.
• Kyprianos (1788). History of Cyprus. Venice, p. 453
• Magusa.org (English). Official website of Famagusta.
• Smith, William (1854). Dictionary of Greek and Roman Geography. s.v. Arsinoe

Endnotes

External links

• Official Website of displaced Famagusta Municipality
• Guide to The City of Famagusta