Rottnest Island

Rottnest Island
Rottnest Island from space
Population	300 (up to 15,000 visitors at peak holiday periods)
• Density
Established	1830s
Postcode(s)	6161
Elevation	46 m (151 ft)
Area	19 km2 (7.3 sq mi)
Time zone	AWST (UTC+8)
Location	19 km (12 mi) W of Fremantle
LGA(s)	A-class reserve administered by the Rottnest Island Authority
State electorate(s)	Fremantle
Federal division(s)	Fremantle
Mean max temp Mean min temp Annual rainfall 21.5 °C 71 °F 14.9 °C 59 °F 702.3 mm 27.6 in

Rottnest Island is located 18 km off the coast of Western Australia, near Fremantle. It is called Wadjemup by the Noongar people, meaning "place across the water". The island is 11 kilometres long, and 4.5 kilometres at its widest point with a total land area of 19 km². It is classified as an A Class Reserve and is managed by the Rottnest Island Authority. No private ownership of land is allowed. It is antipodal to the island of Bermuda.

The Western Australian vernacular diminutive is "Rotto", or "Rottnest". It has been an important local holiday destination for over 50 years.

The island is administered by the Rottnest Island Authority, an agency of the Western Australian government, set up specifically for this purpose. The authority collects revenue by imposing a "landing fee" on all visitors to the island. In 2004, a Taskforce set up by the State Government made 103 recommendations aimed at achieving a sustainable future for Rottnest Island. In recent years, implementation of the recommendations has seen the majority of the RIA-administered accommodation refurbished or upgraded.

History

Pre-history

See also: Australian Aboriginal prehistoric sites

Rottnest Island was inhabited by Aboriginal people from approximately 30,000 years ago, until rising sea levels separated the island from the mainland of Western Australia approximately 7,000 years ago. The island features in Noongar Aboriginal mythology as Wadjemup. Aboriginal artefacts on the island have been dated from 6,500 to more than 30,000 years ago.

There were no people on the island when European exploration began in the 17th century, and the Aboriginal people did not have boats that could make the crossing, so the island had probably been uninhabited for several thousand years.

European exploration and settlement

The island's main settlement is located at Thomson Bay

Rottnest's secondary settlement was constructed during the 1970s at Longreach (left) and Geordie Bays.

The island was observed by various Dutch sailors from 1610, including Frederick de Houtman in 1619, and the three ships Waekende Boey, Elburg and Emeloort in 1658.

In his 1681 chart the English captain John Daniel marked what he had named as Maiden's Isle. That name did not survive, however.

The island was given the name "Rattenest" (meaning "rat's nest" in the Dutch language) by the Dutch fleet captain Willem de Vlamingh on 29 December 1696. De Vlamingh described the indigenous marsupial, called a quokka, as a large rat.

Other explorers who stopped at the island included members of the French expedition of Nicholas Baudin in the Naturaliste and the Geographe in 1801 (when he planted a flag and left a bottle with a letter) and 1803, Phillip Parker King in 1822, and Captain James Stirling in 1827. They commonly reported that much of the island was heavily wooded, which is not the case today.

In 1830, shortly after the establishment of the British Swan River Colony at nearby Fremantle, Robert Thomson settled on the island with his wife and seven children. Thomson developed pasture land west of Herschel Lake as well as salt harvesting and refining from the several salt lakes which was then exported to the mainland settlement. Salt was an important commodity before the advent of refrigeration.

Aboriginal prison

More than 3,700 Aboriginal men and boys from all over Western Australia were imprisoned on Rottnest Island between 1839 and 1931. They lived under brutal conditions in tiny overcrowded cells in The Quad, now used as premium holiday accommodation. At least 370 Aboriginal prisoners died - including five hanged in the central courtyard - and their bodies buried nearby in unmarked graves under the former Tentland tourist camping ground.

Most Aboriginal prisoners died of introduced diseases such as influenza and measles that decimated the undernourished jail population huddled in cold wet cells during winter. Others were bashed to death by guards while forced to work as salt mine labourers. Many Aboriginal prisoners were tribal leaders jailed for "payback" killings and stock theft as expanding colonial settlement seized their traditional hunting grounds, often by force.

The Aboriginal name for Rottnest Island is Wadjemup, meaning where the spirits of deceased ancestors live across the water. It was regarded by the Noongar Aboriginal people of Western Australia's South West as a "winnaitch' or forbidden place. Although Rottnest Island is now one of Western Australia's top tourist destinations, few Aboriginal families holiday there. For more information, historical references and photographs, see www.wadjemup.blogspot.com

Military history

Rottnest was the site of an internment camp in both World War I and World War II. In WWI it was mostly used for German and Austrian enemy aliens, before being closed towards the end of the war due to poor living conditions. During WWII the camp was used exclusively for Italian enemy aliens. This camp was closed about halfway through the war, and its occupants were sent to various other internment and work camps on the mainland.

Also during World War II, two 9.2-inch guns were installed near the middle of the island at Oliver Hill, for defence of the Fremantle port. Two 6-inch guns were also installed at Buckley Point. The location of the island was seen as being crucial to the defence of the important port of Fremantle, the major base for the Allies in the Indian Ocean, as bombardment of any attacking ships could be made from the island before the ships would come into range of the port.

A light railway was built from the jetty at Kingstown Barracks on Thomson Bay, to transport materials and ammunition to the guns. The military fixtures including the barracks and railway became known as the "Rottnest Island Fortress".

After WWII the guns and infrastructure was decommissioned and parts of the railway removed. The 9.2-inch battery was however saved from disposal because the high cost of removing and shipping the guns to the mainland exceeded their value as scrap metal.

In the 1990s the gun emplacements and railway were extensively reconstructed and today a popular tourist activity includes tours over the guns and the tunnels with the journey to the battery being made on a purpose-built train.

Natural features

to be done...

Flora and fauna

The island includes three endemic woodland tree species, the Rottnest Island Pine (Callitris preissii), the Rottnest Island Teatree (Melaleuca lanceolata) and Acacia rostellifera. The Rottnest Island Daisy (Trachymene coerulea) is a commonly occurring flowering native which is also grown widely as an ornamental garden plant.

Coastal dune flora include Searocket (Cakile), Spinifex (Trodia) and Wild Rosemary (Rhododendron tomentosum).

Rottnest is one of the few areas in the world where the quokka can be found. This is largely due to the exclusion of feral cats and other animals such as foxes from the island.

Many coastal birds frequent Rottnest. These include the Pied Cormorant, Osprey, Pied Oystercatcher, Silver Gull, Crested Tern, Fairy Tern, Bridled Tern, Rock Parrot and the Reef Heron. The island salt lakes contain brine shrimp which support birds such as the Red-necked Avocet, Banded Stilt, Ruddy Turnstone, Curlew Sandpiper, Red-capped Dotterel, Australian Shelduck, Red-necked Stint, Grey Plover, White-fronted Chat, Caspian Tern and the Crested Tern.

Between two and four pairs of Osprey nest at Rottnest each year; one nest at Salmon Point is estimated to be 70 years old. Introduced peafowl are often seen near the main settlement.

With the extensive reefs surrounding the island, many species of fish, custacea and coral can be found. Larger species such as bottlenose dolphins, Australian Sea Lions and humpback whales are occasionally seen. A small colony of Fur Seals (Arctocephalus forsteri) have recently taken up residence at Cathedral Rocks.

Reptiles include dugite (Pseudonaja affinis), the Southern Blind Snake (Ramphotyphlops australis), King's Skink (Egernia kingii), Bobtail (Tiliqua rugosa), Marbled Gecko (Christinus marmoratus), West Coast Ctenotus (Ctenotus fallens) and Burton's Legless Lizard (Lialis burtonis). There are three species of frogs: the Moaning Frog (Heleioporus eyrei), the Western Green Tree Frog (Litoria moorei) and the Sandplain Froglet (Crinia insignifera).

Tourism and facilities

Rottnest 'Sea Eagle III' ferry returning to Fremantle

The Basin and Bathurst Lighthouse

The island became largely devoted to recreational use from the 1900s, aside from a brief period of exclusive military use during World War II. It is now visited by nearly 500,000 visitors, an average of 330,000 of those arriving by ferry or air taxi per year. 70% of all visitors come for the day only. The majority of visitors come in summer, with nearly 20% of all visitors coming in January.

The island has accommodation for up to 2,850 visitors, while day-only visitors can number up to 5,000. Accommodation options include 308 villas, units and cottages the majority of which sleep 4, 6 or 8 people and which are self-catering. The style of accommodation is basic and is most suitable for catering to young families on a limited budget. Unlike many east coast island destinations, those looking for a superior level of accommodation are not catered for. Demand for accommodation is very high during the summer months, with ballots held annually for accommodation during the January and Easter school holiday periods. Ballots are conducted in order to fairly allocate vacation opportunities without raising prices. Other options include the YHA and group accommodation at Kingstown Barracks; the Quokka Arms hotel and Rottnest Lodge.

Most visitors arrive on one of the ferries from Fremantle, Perth, and Hillarys. These are operated by Boat Torque/Rottnest Express, Hillarys Fast Ferries and Oceanic Cruises. Rottnest Island Airport for light aircraft (YRTI) is located near the main settlement.

The island is popular with school leavers celebrating the end of their exams - the island is closed to the general public during this time (known in Western Australia as 'Leavers week' or just 'Leavers'). Identification and proof of a current secondary school leaver is required to access the island during Leavers week.

Recent upgrades on the popular "Dome Cafe" have completed. The new location is opposite the dive tank refilling station, and on the same road as the church. The previous location is now a rehabilitation area. The hotel and pub has also received major upgrades.

A new 'luxury' hotel is planned for the island, and was originally due to have opened by the 2008-09 summer. In March 2009 negotiations between the Rottnest Island Authority and the developer, Broadwater Hotels, collapsed. The Authority has stated that "The development of a new hotel at Mt Herschel remains a priority for the Authority, and we will be going to the market with a request for proposals in the next few months." The Rottnest Society has criticised the state government over public consultation over the development: “The government has let us all down in not keeping a written commitment to allow the Western Australian public to comment via a properly constituted public comment process on the concept plans for the proposed new hotel at Mt Herschel”. The Society “…is seriously concerned that the introduction of 'high-end' tourists may well bring pressure for more 'up-market' facilities and services on the island, more coach tours, and a much greater disparity between 'high-end' and 'low-end' accommodation.”..

Activities

See also: Rottnest Island shipwrecks

A quokka on Rottnest

A quokka, native in Rottnest

Diving is a popular activity at Rottnest. Its varied limestone reef terrain, and plentiful fish make it a very interesting diving destination. In particular, diving for crayfish Western rock lobster, is popular among the locals in the summer months. The season opens on 15 November each year, and runs through until 30 June. Crayfish may be caught in special traps or "pots", or when diving either by hand or by using a crayfish "Loop". The loop is a spring-loaded steel cable attached to a long pole. It is illegal to use any means that might puncture the shell to catch the crayfish. The bag limit is 6 per license per day, with a maximum of 12 per boat per day.

A snorkel trail at Parker Point features underwater interpretative plaques that give information about the very unusual marine environments surrounding Rottnest. The island is the southernmost point along the Western Australian coastline at which coral grows.

The island features historic buildings and pleasant beaches (all reachable via the many cycling tracks; cycling being the island's main mode of transport - private or hire cars are not allowed on the island). The main settlement is located at Thomson Bay, facing east towards Fremantle. Other settlements are located at Geordie Bay and Longreach.

Annual events

• The Rottnest Channel Swim is a long distance swimming event from Cottesloe Beach to Rottnest Island, is held annually.
• The 'Rottnest Comedy & Short Film Festival' is an event showcasing Western Australian Short Comedy Films, Stand-Up Comedians and Musicians held annually from 2009.
• Leavers week (November)
• 'Swim Thru Rottnest' is an annual 1600-metre swim held on the first Saturday in December. The event was first held in 1977. Competitors start on the east side of the Army jetty in Thomson Bay, swim to the natural jetty and then return to the Army jetty. The event is run by the Cottesloe Crabs Winter Swimming Club.
• 'The Doctor' is a 23km paddle from the Army jetty to Scarborough Beach.
• 'Fremantle to Rottnest Big Splash' is a masters swimming race from Leighton Beach to Rottnest

Services

Rottnest Island has several naturally-occurring salt lakes

One of Rottnest's salt lakes

Rottnest Island has very few permanent residents with most island workers commuting from the mainland.

As Rottnest is isolated from the mainland, and has no fresh surface water, providing water, power and waste disposal has always been difficult and expensive. In 1996 Rottnest introduced the first public place recycling program in Western Australia. In 2000 the island won the 3R awards (reduce, reuse and recycle).

The original water supply was rainwater harvested from large bitumen sealed catchment areas. In the 1970s fresh water was found underground and was used to supplement the rainfall supply. In 1995 the supply was further supplemented with desalinated groundwater, using a reverse osmosis plant producing up to 500 kL per day.

With the increased power demands from the desalination plant and the increasing price of diesel, harnessing the power of the wind has been planned since 1979. In the 1980s, two wind turbines were built, however high maintenance requirements and excessive power generation resulted in diesel remaining the main power source. In 2004 a new 600 kW wind-diesel system was erected and is now fully commissioned following upgrades to the power station and the installation of low load diesels.

The wind turbine is expected to generate an overall total of approximately 37% of Rottnest's power requirements, save over 400,000 litres of diesel per year and reduce greenhouse gas emissions by over 1,100 tonnes.

Popular culture

• The US television show The Amazing Race 9 featured an episode with events on the island.
• The movie Under the Lighthouse Dancing was filmed on the island.
• An episode of the ABC TV program Surfing the Menu was filmed on the island.
• An eight-minute film, Amy Goes To Wadjemup Island, was shot on the island in 2006.
• An early film, Trip to Rottnest, made by the Australian Government to popularise Rottnest as a holiday destination, is thought to be one of the first of its kind.
• Rottnest features prominently in Robert Drewe's memoir The Shark Net. In the book Drewe recounts how he had his first kiss on the island, and how it played a major role in teenagers' first sexual experiences ("where West Australians lost their virginity"). While attending dances on the island, the author danced close "..up against the bolstered breasts and panty-girdled pelvis of a fifteen-year-old normally spotted at the bus stop in a tartan uniform".
• The West Australian poet and author Hal Gibson Pateshall Colebatch (whose father, Sir Hal Colebatch was the first Chairman of the Rottnest Island Board), has written many poems about Rottnest, especially in his collection The Light River (Connor Court publishers, 2007)
• West Australian author and Supreme Court Judge Nicholas Hasluck has also written poems and fictionalised accounts of Rottnest.

1920 map of "Wadjemup"

See also

• List of features of Rottnest Island -- alpha lists of cottage names, and named features usually found on Rottnest maps
• Rottnest Island shipwrecks -- details on the twelve larger shipwrecks in close proximity to the island
• List of islands of Australia

External links

• Rottnest Island Authority home page