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Fashionable Silk

There's a growing success and demand for handcrafted materials in Ranchi, Jharcraft in the festive season, especially after receiving certification from the Global Organic Textile Standard. Jharcraft's efforts have have been essential in empowering the unorganized sector, exceeding production targets, and redefining tussar silk as a fashion accessory, gaining popularity both locally and abroad. The latest sari trends for Bengalis in Navi Mumbai during the festivities. Bright colors and designer fabrics like Ghicha silk and Jamdani Dhakais are in Vogue, and new trends like "Mou silk saris" and mixed-fabric designs are gaining traction, catering to younger women's preferences. As Navratri and Durga Puja draw near, cocktail saris with trendy prints are also increasingly in demand as attire for lavish cultural events.

Ranchi, Jharcraft

Ranchi, Jharcraft was founded in 2006 with the intention of increasing silk production and assisting artists, weavers, and sericulturists. The group executed government-funded projects to advance tussar, handloom and handicrafts in the region. The first Jharcraft emproium opened in Ranchi's Rospa Tower in September 20207. From 90,000 Kilograms in 2006 to 1,025,000 Kilograms in 2012-13.

International Exports

The Handloom Export Council of India, with assistance from the Japan India Industry Promotion Association (JIIPA), has organized the India Trend Fair in Japan, where Jharkhand Silk Textile and Handicraft Development Corporation Ltd. (Jharcraft) has set up a booth. The three-day fair was opened by Deepa Gopalan Wadhwa, the Indian ambassador to Japan. The purpose of the fair is to encourage the export of Indian handloom goods. The clothing designers and producers in Japan are very interested in Jharcraft's goods. The majority of the items in Jharcraft's stand are clothing, such as stoles, kurtis, and bandish.

When the mayor of the Ivory Coast, Ndri Koffi Germain, and the Chief Justice of the country, Ali Yeo, visited the Kuchai Silk Expo that Jharcraft hosted in Ranchi, they also extended an invitation to Jharcraft to take part in an expo to be held in Ivory Coast, West Africa. Jharcraft participated in the Hannover Messe 2015, attracted interest from over 20 foreign businesses, primarily from Germany and Russia.

The Women Behind the Silk

In Assam, families weave their own cloth, and every girl learns to weave from her mother at a young age. In the Assamese town of Sualkuchi, there are roughly 6,872 women who weave. These weavers try to maintain traditional handloom weaving because eventually will become unpopular. It also shows the ability to weave intricately and the accessibility of highly experienced individuals in the early days. Such expert weaving, nevertheless, started to become less common over time. During the reign of Koch King Naranarayan and his successors, the handloom and craft industries advanced because of the creation of a new kingdom in the Koch Dynasty, caused the blending of tribal and non-tribal techniques. Among all industries the weaving, dyeing, silk and textile industries were profiting through the Koch Dynasty. Professional silk spinners and weavers were known as Katanis under the Koch Dynasty, and they continue to go by these names now in most Assam, particularly in the regions that were a vital part of the Koch Dynasty.

Working Conditions

A little over 80% of the women weavers in the Sualkuchi block receive their wages on a monthly basis, while 20% do so on a weekly basis. No women weavers accept payments on a daily or annual basis. In Sualkuchi, there are roughly 13,752 handlooms and 12,056 weavers, of whom 6,872 are women. 90% of residences have looms, with 79% of families using traditional looms and 17% using modern looms for making commercial silk. The majority of the looms are traditional looms. Small-sized businesses have 1-3 handlooms and employ 18 women; they make around 8000 INR per month. Medium-sized businesses have 4 to 6 handlooms and employ 19 women; they make about 9000 INR [[1]] per month. Larger companies employ 23 women and use more than seven handlooms; they each make about 9500 INR per month. The major profit-makers are the master weavers and retailers.

The majority of the homes in the Kamrup cluster have Sal, which are attached to the homes and used for cooperative weaving by family members. Approximately 16% of women who weave have issues at work: poor working conditions affect 20% of female weavers; payment delays affect 36% of female weavers from the Sualkuchi block; required work hours and times greatly effect 16% of female weavers from the Sualkuchi block; and lavatory facilities.

References

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