Tweed

Harris Tweed woven in a herringbone twill pattern, mid-20th century

Tweed is a made-up, rough, unfinished woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is made in either plain or twill weave and may have a check or herringbone pattern. Subdued, interesting colour effects (heather mixtures) are obtained by twisting together differently coloured woollen strands into a two- or three-ply yarn.

Tweeds are desirable for informal outerwear, being moisture-resistant and durable. Tweeds are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting, in both Ireland and the United Kingdom. "Lovat" is the name given to the green used in traditional Scottish tweed. In Ireland, tweed manufacturing is most associated with County Donegal in the Province of Ulster.

Tweed is also commonly found covering vintage or retro guitar amplifiers, such as the Fender Tweed. Tweed has recently come back to fashion with high end stores and designers using it often.

Etymology

The original name of the cloth was tweel, Scots for twill, it being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. About 1830, a London merchant received a letter from a Hawick firm about some tweels. The London merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the river Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. Subsequently the goods were advertised as Tweed, and the name has remained ever since.

Tweed making at a mill in Wales, 1940.

Traditionally used for upper class country-clothing like shooting jackets, tweed became popular among the Edwardian middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite. Due to their durability tweed Norfolk jackets and plus-fours were a popular choice for hunters, cyclists, golfers and early motorists, hence Kenneth Grahame's depiction of Mr Toad in a Harris tweed suit.

Postwar, tweed declined in popularity except among the academic community until the mid-1960s when houndstooth was revived by the mod subculture. In recent years tweed has undergone a second revival among the British indie and later hipster subcultures. Sloane rangers and American preppies, unwilling to be seen in second-hand or vintage clothing, purchased brand new hats, jackets, bags, and overcoats made of Harris tweed. Popular patterns include houndstooth associated with 1960s fashion, Windowpane, gamekeeper's tweed worn by academics, Prince of Wales check originally commissioned by Edward VII, and herringbone.

In popular culture

• Tweed jackets were worn by the Second Doctor (Patrick Troughton) and Fourth Doctor (Tom Baker). The most recent Doctor Who incarnation to wear tweed is Matt Smith's Eleventh Doctor whose Shetland Tweed sportcoat sparked a boom for the industry.
• Sherlock Holmes is usually depicted wearing a tweed Inverness cape and deerstalker.
• Mr Toad wears a Norfolk jacket and plus fours made of Harris tweed.
• In Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade Henry Jones, Sr. (portrayed by Sean Connery) wore a tweed bucket hat.
• In Buffy the Vampire Slayer, Rupert Giles (portrayed by Anthony Head) wore tweed suits - causing numerous jokes and comments throughout the show about his style of dress.
• Andy Mattches is a big fan of tweed.

Types of tweed

• Harris Tweed: A cloth handwoven by the islanders on the Isles of Harris, Lewis, Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, using local wool. Formerly, Harris Tweed was also handspun and hand dyed with local natural dyes, especially lichens of the genus Parmelia.
• Donegal tweed: A handwoven tweed manufactured in County Donegal, Ireland. Like the Outer Hebrides, Donegal has for centuries been producing tweed from local materials. Sheep thrive in the hills and bogs of Donegal, and indigenous plants such as blackberries, fuchsia, gorse (whins), and moss provide dyes.
• Silk tweed: A fabric made of raw silk with flecks of colour typical of woollen tweeds.

Gallery

• 
  Logo of the Harris Tweed company
• 
  Prince of Wales check, frequently used to make overcoats and sportcoats in the 1950s
• 
  Example of the herringbone pattern, a popular choice for suits and outerwear
• 
  Houndstooth, the basis of the keeper's tweed popular among the upper classes from the 1860s until the 1930s
• 
  Grey Donegal Tweed sportcoat
• 
  A deerstalker hat made of district or gamekeeper's tweed (contrasting mustard, green and brown checks)
• 
  Windowpane tweed popular in the late 19th century and again in the 1970s
• 
  Frederick III with his young son Wilhelm wearing highland dress including tweed kilt jacket
• 
  Tweed Fender guitar amplifier

See also

• Sportcoat
• Norfolk jacket
• 2010s in fashion
• 2000s in fashion
• 1970s fashion
• 1960s fashion
• 1950s fashion
• 1920s in fashion

References

• Dunbar, John Telfer: The Costume of Scotland, London: Batsford, 1984, ISBN 0-7134-2534-2, 1984 (paperback 1989, ISBN 0-7134-2535-0)
• The Harris Tweed Authority
• Rupert Giles IMDB Bio

• What is Tweed - Good description of tweed cloth
•  Reynolds, Francis J., ed. (1921). "Tweed (cloth)" . Collier's New Encyclopedia. New York: P. F. Collier & Son Company.
• National Library of Scotland: SCOTTISH SCREEN ARCHIVE (archive films relating to tweed manufacture in Scotland)