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Traditionally used for upper class country-clothing like [[shooting jacket]]s, tweed became popular among the [[Edwardian]] middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite.<ref>{{cite journal |author= Edward Minister and Son|year=1873 |title=Gazette of fashion, and cutting-room companion |journal= |publisher=Simpkin, Marshall & Co |volume=XXVII |issue= |pages=31 |url=http://books.google.com/?id=7SIGAAAAQAAJ&dq=Norfolk%20jacket&pg=PA31#v=onepage&q=Norfolk%20jacket|doi= }}</ref> Due to their durability tweed [[Norfolk jacket]]s and [[plus-fours]] were a popular choice for hunters, cyclists, golfers and early motorists, hence [[Kenneth Grahame]]'s depiction of [[Mr Toad]] in a [[Harris tweed]] suit.<ref>[http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118172/ Mr Toad's Wild Ride]</ref>
Traditionally used for upper class country-clothing like [[shooting jacket]]s, tweed became popular among the [[Edwardian]] middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite.<ref>{{cite journal |author= Edward Minister and Son|year=1873 |title=Gazette of fashion, and cutting-room companion |journal= |publisher=Simpkin, Marshall & Co |volume=XXVII |issue= |pages=31 |url=http://books.google.com/?id=7SIGAAAAQAAJ&dq=Norfolk%20jacket&pg=PA31#v=onepage&q=Norfolk%20jacket|doi= }}</ref> Due to their durability tweed [[Norfolk jacket]]s and [[plus-fours]] were a popular choice for hunters, cyclists, golfers and early motorists, hence [[Kenneth Grahame]]'s depiction of [[Mr Toad]] in a [[Harris tweed]] suit.<ref>[http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118172/ Mr Toad's Wild Ride]</ref>


Postwar, tweed declined in popularity except among the academic community until the mid-1960s when [[houndstooth]] was revived by the [[mod subculture]]. In recent years tweed has undergone a second revival among the British [[indie]] and later [[Hipster (contemporary subculture)|hipster]] subcultures. [[Sloane ranger]]s and American [[preppies]], unwilling to be seen in secondhand or [[vintage clothing]], purchased brand new hats, jackets, bags, and overcoats made of Harris tweed. Popular patterns include houndstooth<ref>Dunbar, John Telfer: ''The Costume of Scotland'', London: Batsford, 1984, ISBN 0-7134-2534-2 1984 (paperback 1989, ISBN 0-7134-2535-0)</ref> associated with [[1960s fashion]], Windowpane, gamekeeper's tweed worn by academics, [[Prince of Wales]] check originally commissioned by [[Edward VII]], and [[herringbone]].<ref name=Polo>{{Citation
Postwar, tweed declined in popularity except among the academic community until the mid-1960s when [[houndstooth]] was revived by the [[mod subculture]]. In recent years tweed has undergone a second revival among the British [[indie]] and later [[Hipster (contemporary subculture)|hipster]] subcultures. [[Sloane ranger]]s and American [[preppies]], unwilling to be seen in second-hand or [[vintage clothing]], purchased brand new hats, jackets, bags, and overcoats made of Harris tweed. Popular patterns include houndstooth<ref>Dunbar, John Telfer: ''The Costume of Scotland'', London: Batsford, 1984, ISBN 0-7134-2534-2 1984 (paperback 1989, ISBN 0-7134-2535-0)</ref> associated with [[1960s fashion]], Windowpane, gamekeeper's tweed worn by academics, [[Prince of Wales]] check originally commissioned by [[Edward VII]], and [[herringbone]].<ref name=Polo>{{Citation
| last = [[Ralph Lauren]] Style Guide
| last = [[Ralph Lauren]] Style Guide
| first =
| first =
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*[[Mr Toad]] wears a [[Norfolk jacket]] and [[plus fours]] made of [[Harris tweed]].
*[[Mr Toad]] wears a [[Norfolk jacket]] and [[plus fours]] made of [[Harris tweed]].
*In [[Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade]] [[Henry Jones, Sr.]] (portrayed by [[Sean Connery]]) wore a tweed [[bucket hat]].<ref>[http://www.imdb.com/character/ch0001064/ Prof Henry Jones Sr]</ref>
*In [[Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade]] [[Henry Jones, Sr.]] (portrayed by [[Sean Connery]]) wore a tweed [[bucket hat]].<ref>[http://www.imdb.com/character/ch0001064/ Prof Henry Jones Sr]</ref>
* In [[Buffy the Vampire Slayer]], [[Rupert Giles]] (portrayed by [[Anthony Stewart Head]]) wore tweed [[suits]] - causing numerous jokes and comments throughout the show about his style of dress.<ref>[http://www.imdb.com/character/ch0004927/bio]</ref>
* In [[Buffy the Vampire Slayer]], [[Rupert Giles]] (portrayed by [[Anthony Head]]) wore tweed [[suits]] - causing numerous jokes and comments throughout the show about his style of dress.<ref>[http://www.imdb.com/character/ch0004927/bio]</ref>


==Types of tweed==
==Types of tweed==

Revision as of 13:44, 15 December 2011

Harris Tweed woven in a herringbone twill pattern, mid-20th century

Tweed is a rough, unfinished woolen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is made in either plain or twill weave and may have a check or herringbone pattern. Subdued, interesting colour effects (heather mixtures) are obtained by twisting together differently coloured woolen strands into a two- or three-ply yarn.

Tweeds are desirable for informal outerwear,[1] being moisture-resistant and durable. Once worn in, tweeds are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting, in both Ireland and the United Kingdom. "Lovat" is the name given to the green used in traditional Scottish tweed. In Ireland, tweed manufacturing is most associated with County Donegal in the Province of Ulster.

Tweed is also commonly found covering vintage or retro guitar amplifiers, such as the Fender Tweed. Tweed has recently come back to fashion with high end stores and designers using it often.

Etymology

The original name of the cloth was tweel, Scots for twill, it being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. About 1830, a London merchant received a letter from a Hawick firm about some tweels. The London merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the river Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. Subsequently the goods were advertised as Tweed, and the name has remained ever since.

Traditionally used for upper class country-clothing like shooting jackets, tweed became popular among the Edwardian middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite.[2] Due to their durability tweed Norfolk jackets and plus-fours were a popular choice for hunters, cyclists, golfers and early motorists, hence Kenneth Grahame's depiction of Mr Toad in a Harris tweed suit.[3]

Postwar, tweed declined in popularity except among the academic community until the mid-1960s when houndstooth was revived by the mod subculture. In recent years tweed has undergone a second revival among the British indie and later hipster subcultures. Sloane rangers and American preppies, unwilling to be seen in second-hand or vintage clothing, purchased brand new hats, jackets, bags, and overcoats made of Harris tweed. Popular patterns include houndstooth[4] associated with 1960s fashion, Windowpane, gamekeeper's tweed worn by academics, Prince of Wales check originally commissioned by Edward VII, and herringbone.[5]

Types of tweed

See Also


Notes

  1. ^ The Museum at FIT, Fashion Institute of Technology (2006), "The Tailor's Art," Menswear Fabrics - A Glossary, retrieved 2008-11-24 {{citation}}: Check |first= value (help); Check date values in: |date= (help); External link in |last= (help)
  2. ^ Edward Minister and Son (1873). "Gazette of fashion, and cutting-room companion". XXVII. Simpkin, Marshall & Co: 31. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  3. ^ Mr Toad's Wild Ride
  4. ^ Dunbar, John Telfer: The Costume of Scotland, London: Batsford, 1984, ISBN 0-7134-2534-2 1984 (paperback 1989, ISBN 0-7134-2535-0)
  5. ^ Ralph Lauren Style Guide; polo.com Glossary, Herringbone, retrieved 2008-11-24 {{citation}}: External link in |last2= (help)
  6. ^ 11th Doctor costume
  7. ^ Matt Smith sparks boom for tweed industry
  8. ^ Christopher Redmond (1993), A Sherlock Holmes Handbook, p. 61, ISBN 9780889242463
  9. ^ Prof Henry Jones Sr
  10. ^ [1]

References

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