House rabbit
A house rabbit is a domestic rabbit kept as a pet for companionship, who lives inside the home with their owners. House rabbits usually have an indoor pen and a rabbit-safe place to run and exercise, such as a living or family room. They are easily trained to use a litter box and can learn to come when called. Their diets typically consist of unlimited timothy hay, a small helping of pellets, and some fresh vegetables and fruits. House rabbits are very quiet pets with a life expectancy of 8 to 12 years.[1] They are not well suited for families with unsupervised children under seven years, due to the likelihood of frightening or harming these timid creatures by loud sounds or mishandling.
Acquiring a rabbit
There are many rescue groups, humane societies, and local city animal shelters and individuals that have rabbits available for adoption, typically for a small fee. Additionally, reputable breeders and some pet stores sell rabbits. Pet stores are often considered the least preferable place to acquire a new rabbit as the rabbit's history is unknown, and many come from pet farms with poor conditions.[2] Some stores, however, do document the history of their stock, which can be used to verify their environmental conditions.
A house rabbit is suitable for a household with the time and energy to care and interact with him.[3] While children often have the time and interest, house rabbit organizations caution that a rabbit does not make a good pet for small children because they do not know how to stay quiet, calm, and gentle around the rabbit. As prey animals, rabbits are alert, timid creatures that startle easily. They have fragile bones, especially in their backs, that require support on the belly and bottom when picked up. Children seven years old and older usually have the maturity required to care for a rabbit.[4]
Socialization
Rabbits are very social animals. House rabbits become part of the family, just as cats, dogs, and birds do, and often get along well with these other animals. It is not uncommon to see a house rabbit grooming the cat or dog or another rabbit. Socialization takes time, especially between two rabbits, where the process is called bonding. Until two rabbits are bonded, they tend to be territorial and can be a danger to each other.
A rabbit needs at least two hours per day[5] of out-of-cage time in a safe environment (see house proofing below). The strong muscles in his back legs will weaken if he is not given opportunities to run, jump, and play. When a rabbit plays, he will often do a binky, which is a happy dance where he will jump into the air, turn around, and take off running. This is the equivalent of a dog's tail wagging or a cat pouncing in a play-like manner. When calm and being petted on the head or cheeks, he may gently grind his teeth with contentment, which is the equivalent of a cat purring and is a sign that the rabbit feels comfortable and happy with his environment. Rabbits enjoy gentle, quiet attention from their human counterparts, although most do not like to be cuddled, which takes them too far from their natural comfort zone as prey animals. Rabbits can be taught to follow voice commands such as coming when called by name, much like a dog or cat.[6] Other tricks include begging and jumping hurdles.
Socialization with other animals
It is recommended that dogs and cats generally not be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog or cat attacking the rabbit spontaneously. Many owners have found, however, that after careful introduction their dog or cat does get along well with their rabbit.[7][8]
Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs.[9] While there is varied success with this technique, some have recommended that rabbits should not be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs.[10] A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig, leading to severe distress, injury, or even death for the guinea pig. Occasionally an unneutered male may attempt to mate with a guinea pig and injure it. [citation needed] Rabbits and guinea pigs also have differing nutritional requirements and therefore require separate foods. Despite formerly proposed social compatibility and their mutual status as small herbivores, rabbits and guinea pigs do in fact have very different social signals and activities. Additionally, rabbits often harbour Bordatella bacteria, which is lethal to guinea pigs should they become infected.[citation needed]
Housing
Rabbits need an enclosure that is at least 4 times the length of the rabbit. Typical enclosures are x-pens, multiple-level condos, large dog cages, a room, and even a whole house.
A puppy training folding fence 26 or more inches tall serves as a simple pen, called an exercise pen or x-pen. It provides more free space and is easier to clean than some traditional cages. Multiple x-pens can be joined to enlarge the enclosed area. An x-pen’s portability is useful for travel with rabbits and for introduction and bonding.
A multiple-level condo is used to minimize floor space while keeping the rabbit quarters large. The rabbit condo can be made by using cable ties and storage cubes available at home supply stores (sample building instructions). Corrugated plastic and carpet remnants are commonly used as flooring. A multiple-level condo provides the rabbit plenty of jumping options and variety. The owner chooses the dimensions and layout.
Yet another option is a large dog cage. House rabbit organizations caution against using a grid floor, as this will cause sore hocks (sores or hair loss on the bottom of the rabbit’s back feet). Because they do not have pads on their feet, rabbits rely on the natural, thick hair growth on the bottom of their feet for protection against the elements and to cushion them from the surface they are walking on.[11] When this hair is worn off by constantly being on a grid floor or by being kept in an unsuitably small enclosure, even soft flooring like carpet becomes painful to walk or lay on. Carpet or linoleum can be added to a cage that has a grid floor to protect the rabbit’s feet, or sometimes the grid can be removed.
A rabbit-proofed room outfitted with a litter box, toys, and food can also serve as an enclosure. Rooms shared with humans, such as a bedroom or a kitchen, are typical. Where it is practical to rabbit-proof an entire house, a house rabbit can freely roam the house as cats and dogs do. Depending on the rabbit, this could require additional litter boxes, possibly one per room or per floor.
Within his enclosure, a house rabbit may be provided a small shelter to hide and rest in, such as a cardboard box. Sometimes the shelter doubles as a chew toy. Alternatively, a towel or cloth may be hung from the top of the cage to section off a small, dark area. Shy or skittish rabbits use these to achieve a sense of the safety of a burrow.
Litter training
A house rabbit is easily trained to use a litter box, especially if spayed or neutered. When placed in a new area, it is common for a rabbit to mark the area with his droppings. After he gets acquainted to the area, he naturally starts favoring a certain location. A litter box filled with about one inch of non-toxic litter is placed there. Cat litter boxes are commonly used; additionally, pet stores sell small animal litter boxes marketed toward small rabbits and ferrets.
Most pet stores carry safe litter that is easy to handle, clean, and absorbent. Carefresh and Yesterday’s News are popular. Hardwood wood pellets designed for wood burning stoves offer a low cost, safe and clean alternative to store bought cat litter, with a 40 pound bag generally costing $5–$6 USD. Aspen, hay, straw, and folded towels can also be used. Experts recommend not using litter made from pine or cedar[12] because inhaling the aromatic oils in them may cause liver damage to the rabbit. Clay based cat litter, scented cat litter and clumping cat litter should not be used with rabbits.
Placing hay close to the litter box can speed up the training, since rabbits like to defecate and eat at the same time. Due to this tendency, a rabbit may remain in the litter box for extended periods, increasing the importance of keeping the box clean. It can also be helpful during training to limit the space available to the rabbit. Starting at adolescence, rabbits that are not spayed or neutered may begin displaying territorial marking, which can frustrate efforts to litter train.[13]
Feeding
House rabbits are provided an unlimited amount of grass hay, with a high concentration of timothy hay—roughage being recommended by many rabbit experts, which reduces the chance of digestive tract blockages and tooth malocclusion while providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. While timothy hay is the most preferred hay,[14] brome, orchard grass, and prairie hay have also been recommended.[15] Conversely, alfalfa hay should be avoided for all but very young rabbits as it contains excessive amounts of calcium and protein,[15] in addition to a low fiber content.[14]
House rabbits are also typically given about two cups chopped dark, green, leafy vegetables per 6 pounds of body weight and up to two tablespoons of fruit or carrots per six pounds body weight daily. House rabbit owners commonly provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a few pellets, a slice of strawberry, or other healthy foods. Advertised treats in the pet stores are occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically have very high sugar and starch content.
Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are romaine lettuce, escarole, turnips, collard, kale, parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. The green, leafy tops of radishes and carrots also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables are introduced slowly since rabbits have delicate digestive systems. Cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage are best avoided because they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Starchy vegetables such as potatoes and corn are also avoided. Iceburg lettuce is to be especially avoided because it contains no nutritional value and has a high moisture content, which can upset their delicate digestive system.
Pellets made from timothy grass supplement a house rabbit's diet. This differs from commercial rabbits, where pellets account for a much larger portion. Pellet amounts are determined by the weight of the rabbit and are listed on the back of the manufacturer’s packaging. A general rule of thumb for pellet feeding is to give an ounce per pound of rabbit per day. Young rabbits, however, should be given an unlimited feed of pellets. Good quality pellets are indicated by a 16 to 18 percent protein and at least 16 percent fibre content.[14] Unlike pellets for rodents, rabbit pellets do not contain nuts, which contain more fat than rabbits can easily metabolize and can cause health problems such as fatty liver. If fresh grass or hay is not available, a high quality pellet is sometimes used as a fallback instead of hay as the staple food.
House rabbits are provided an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle. Rabbits on a consistent dietary regimen of fresh vegetables will drink less water, sourcing it instead through their greens.
Young rabbits have special dietary needs. They benefit from legume hays and pellets such as alfalfa, which are higher in protein, calories, and calcium than grasses. They are introduced to vegetables at 12 weeks old and fruit at 7 months. Also at 7 months, they begin transitioning from legumes to grass.[16]
House proofing
A house rabbit is provided an out-of-cage area to run and explore, where hazards (to house or bunny) have been mitigated. For example, to prevent electrocution, an owner will hide electrical cords or cover them with flexible clear tubing (slit lengthwise), such as that purchased in the plumbing section of a home store. Also of concern is rabbits' tendency to chew books, papers, and some types of woodwork and carpet edges. This problem is mitigated by providing something in the room that will attract the rabbit to chew instead, such as an old phone book, large pieces of scrap paper, or a toilet paper roll. [17]
Despite the hazards, a house does provide an inherent shelter. House rabbit owners should not leave their rabbits outside unattended, since predators may attack, or there may be pesticides that can harm the rabbit.
Toys
House rabbits need to play to keep their minds active and their bodies trim. Rotating through a collection of toys provides variety and keeps their interest. Toys must be non-toxic and include cardboard boxes with holes cut in them, toilet paper rolls stuffed with hay, PVC pipe to tunnel through, balls with holes for food to tumble out, plastic rattles for the rabbit to toss, straw mats, or untreated wicker baskets to chew. Some rabbits enjoy cloths that are dangled into their cage (though supervision with these materials is mandatory should the rabbit ingest any of it). All house rabbits need wood toys that they can chew on to wear down their teeth, which will continue to grow to malocclusion if they have nothing to chew. Toys can be purchased at a pet store, improvised from paper refuse, or they can be handmade.
Health
Emergency health concerns such as a rabbit not eating, not eliminating, or head tilt require immediate veterinary attention. A veterinarian can also assist with chronic conditions such as malocclusion.[18] In most regions, house rabbits do not require vaccination; however, in the UK they do to protect against myxomatosis and hemorrhagic viral diseases.[19][20] Some owners visit a vet for advice on topics such as diet, although others rely on their own experience or the experience of others, such as knowledgeable people in a house rabbit organization. In any case, house rabbit organizations recommend finding a vet before an emergency occurs as only some vets are experienced in treating rabbits. The House Rabbit Society maintains a list of veterinarians who practice veterinary medicine on rabbits.
House rabbit organizations recommend that house rabbits be spayed or neutered. The advantages include avoiding high incidences of ovarian cancer in females, territorial marking in males, aggression toward other rabbits, and overpopulation.[21] Adult rabbits, unlike cats and dogs, don't go into heat, but rather are constantly ready for breeding—thus the adage "breed like rabbits."
Unlike cats, rabbits cannot be declawed. Lacking pads on the bottoms of their feet, rabbits require their claws for balance, and removing a rabbit’s claws will render him unable to stand, permanently crippling him. Rabbits with access to rough surfaces will naturally keep their claws worn down to a certain extent when running, but pet rabbits will normally require their claws to be clipped regularly. This is especially true of house rabbits that only run on soft surfaces such as carpets. It is very important that claws are clipped by someone with experience, such as a trained veterinary practitioner, as clipping the claws at the quick or cuticle can cause pain and bleeding. As a precaution, styptic powder or gel can be kept at the ready to speed clotting, should bleeding occur.[22]
Rabbits shed on average of once every three months. During this shedding time, it is beneficial to brush the rabbit with a gentle rubber curry or pin brush. Cat combs or specifically designed rabbit combs are also available. Due to the rabbit's biological incapability to vomit, removing excess fur prevents intestinal blocking and fatal choking on fur balls as rabbits tend to groom themselves.[23]
See also
References
- ^ Basic Rabbit Facts, House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2009-12-02
- ^ What's wrong with pet stores?, The Quintessential Rabbit, retrieved 2008-06-18
- ^ Pavia 2003, p. 9.
- ^ Mixon, Carolyn, Children and Rabbits, House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2009-10-13
- ^ Pavia 2003, p. 11.
- ^ Pavia 2003, p. 166.
- ^ Shapiro, Amy, Cats and Rabbits, House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2008-01-04
- ^ Shapiro, Amy, When Fido Met Thumper (Dogs and Rabbits), House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2008-01-04
- ^ Rubins, Suzanne, Guinea Pigs as Rabbit Buddies, House Rabbit Network, retrieved 2009-06-10
- ^ The Essential Rabbit, editor Betsy Sikora Siing
- ^ Paul-Murphy, Joanne, DVM, Declawing Rabbits, Wisconsin House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2009-06-17
{{citation}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - ^ Pavia 2003, p. 66.
- ^ Litter Training, House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2008-01-10
- ^ a b c Feeding Your Rabbit, Three Little Ladies Rabbitry, retrieved 2009-06-05
- ^ a b Holland Lop Care, Hillsboro Hollands, retrieved 2009-03-05
- ^ Rabbit Care Information Packet for Adopters, House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2009-02-09
- ^ House Rabbit Society: Chewing
- ^ When Teeth Turn to Tusks, House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2007-06-12
- ^ VHD: what every UK rabbit owner needs to know, Rabbit Welfare Association, March 2007, retrieved 2007-06-12
- ^ Pavia 2003, p. 182.
- ^ Spaying and Neutering, House Rabbit Society, retrieved 2007-10-29
- ^ Cushman, Abi, Clipping Your Rabbit's Nails, My House Rabbit, retrieved 2007-06-18
- ^ Grooming Your Rabbit, Three Little Ladies Rabbitry, retrieved 2009-06-05
- Pavia, Audrey (2003), Rabbits for Dummies, New York: Wiley, ISBN 0-7645-0861-X
External links
- "Did you know?" poster: Summary of key house rabbit facts and recommendations.
- House Rabbit Documentary
- Illustrated Edible Guide: Safe plants, fruit, berries, branches, vegetables, and herbs for rabbits to eat.
- Binky Bunny: Tips for litter training, housing, diet, house proofing, etc.
- My House Rabbit: Providing useful information on rabbit care and behavior.
- The Language of Lagomorphs: A guide to rabbit body language and behavior.