Costume design

Costume design is the fabrication of apparel for the overall appearance of a character or performer. This usually involves researching, designing and building the actual items from conception. Costumes may be for a theater or cinema performance but may not be limited to such. Costume design should not be confused with costume coordination which merely involves altering existing clothing, although both create stage clothes.

Four types of costumes are used in theatrical design, Historical, fantastic, dance, and modern.^[1]

Along with the fabricated portion, the costume may require accessories such as footwear, hats and head dresses for the actors to wear, but it may also include designing masks, makeup, wigs, underwear or other unusual specialty items, such as the full body animal suits for the characters in the musical Cats (designed by John Napier, winner of the 1983 Tony Award for Best Costume Design). Costumes budgets will generally be as high a cost as other departments or theatrical needs such as set design.

History

In its earliest form, costumes consisted of theatrical prop masks from the time of the ancient Greeks. Costume design evolved as the need for more elaborate and detailed characterizations were needed as the performances became more intricate and more complex characters began to emerge on stage. Defining each character separately allowing the audience the ability to follow a storyline with a conceptualised look defined prior to a performance was, and is needed as part of preproduction preparations.

Early performers were generally male, therefore costuming was needed for gender disguise so as to create the illusion of the opposite sex. In Asia, the men would dress up as women. Costuming also helps create other character building imagery such as age. The leading characters will have more detail and design to make them stand out and relate a sense of trust to the audience. Styles and technique has changed over the centuries but have maintained basic principles of clothing design yet geared towards pushing the characters traits out in its appearance. The designer meets the cast, measuring each performer and making certain that the costumes will be appropriate for each individual.

Design Process

The costume design process involves many steps and though they differ from genre to genre a basic method is commonly used.

1.) Analysis: The first step is an analysis of the script, musical composition, choreography, etc. Parameters must be established:

Indication of events happening before the piece took place if applicable
Geographical location
Day, month, year or specific season
Who the characters are regarding relationships and socio economics, government and religious rule, and ethical conduct, marriage or family.
The function of each character in regards to protagonist, antagonist etc.
Dialogue mode of text
Texts action in sequence. This is used to create a Costume Plot or Action Chart, which lists which characters are in what scene.
Theme of the text

2.) Design Collaboration: An important phase in the process is meeting with the director and fellow designers. There must be a clear understanding of:

Script/Text
Budget
Time table/Calendar

3.) Costume Research: Once guidelines are established, the next step is to gather research.

A research outline is important to focus your attention, listing any questions necessary to complete your study.
Use primary sources for the majority of your research; Such as, museums, periodicals, newspapers, sculptures, paintings, etc.

4.) Preliminary Sketching and Color Layout: Once enough information is obtained to begin drawing, a preliminary sketch must be performed. Successful preliminary sketching conveys an accurate depiction of:

Line, which will show the silhouette of the targeted piece of clothing
Proportion, of not only the garment but also the actors body.
Detail, of not specifics but general ideas. Such as the indication of what type of fabric or pattern may be used.
A color layout, using either fabric swatches, or paint samples needs to be represented.

5.) Final Sketches: The final costume sketch can be completed in any medium but must include:

Name of text
Name of character/actor
Scene(s) in which costume is represented
Signed signature of artist
Swatch of fabric if being constructed

^[2]

Production Process

Once the show is designed, it is necessary to plan where the items will be sourced. There are four options. Garments can be:

Pulled, which refers to searching through a costume shops stock
Rented
Shopped
Constructed, or also known as made to order.

There are two ways a garment can begin to be constructed; either pattern drafted or draped, and many times both methods will be used together. Pattern Drafting begins by using a set of basic pattern blocks developed from the actor’s measurements. They are drawn out on paper first, then transferred to fabric, and sewn together to test fit. ^[3] "See also Pattern (sewing) Draping involves manipulating a piece of fabric on a dress form or mannequin that have measurements closely related to the actors. It is a process that takes a flat piece of cloth and shapes it to conform the fabric to a three-dimensional body by cutting and pinning.

References

^ Grimball and Wells, Elizabeth B. and Rhea (1925). Costuming a Play: Inter-Theatre Arts Handbook. The Century Co. p. 6. ISBN '''000-00000'''. {{cite book}}: Check |isbn= value: invalid character (help)
^ Covey, Ingham, Liz, Rosemary (1992). The Costume Designer's Handbook. Portsmouth, NH: Heinemann. pp. 15–100.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
^ Covey, Ingham, Liz, Rosemary (2003). The Costume Technician's Handbook. Portsmouth, NH: Heinemann. p. 98.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)

External links

"The National Costumers Association" Nationwide Non-Profit organization for costume designers and costumers.
"The Stagecraft Wiki" A Wiki dedicated to technical theater arts. Part of Stagecraft.com
IDD: Costume & Theatrical International Costume & Theatrical Design Directory
University of Washington Libraries Digital Collections - Fashion Plates Costumes
Costumes of All Nations 104 plates of costumes
Williams College Theatre Department a database of costumes with VR movies and the original sketches
"Stagelink" Theatrical costume, makeup and wig resources
Theatre Costume and Set Design Archive at the University of Bristol Theatre Collection, University of Bristol
The 50 films that changed men's style
"British Society of Theatre Designers"
Costume Design training in Auckland NZ at Unitec Performing and Screen Arts

[1] Grimball and Wells, Elizabeth B. and Rhea (1925). Costuming a Play: Inter-Theatre Arts Handbook. The Century Co. p. 6. ISBN '''000-00000'''. {{cite book}}: Check |isbn= value: invalid character (help)

[2] Covey, Ingham, Liz, Rosemary (1992). The Costume Designer's Handbook. Portsmouth, NH: Heinemann. pp. 15–100.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)

[3] Covey, Ingham, Liz, Rosemary (2003). The Costume Technician's Handbook. Portsmouth, NH: Heinemann. p. 98.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)

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