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Tom Ford

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This article is about the fashion designer. For other uses, see Thomas Ford (disambiguation).
Tom Ford
Tom Ford, September 2009
Born
Thomas Carlyle Ford

(1961-08-27) August 27, 1961 (age 63)[1]
Austin, Texas, U.S.
EducationParsons School of Design
Occupation(s)fashion designer
film director
Employer(s)Tom Ford
Perry Ellis
Gucci
Yves Saint Laurent
SpouseRichard Buckley
Children1
Parent(s)Thomas David Ford
Shirley Burton

Thomas Carlyle "Tom" Ford (born August 27, 1961)[2] is an American fashion designer and film director. He gained international fame for as the creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. Ford went on to launch the Tom Ford label in 2006. Ford also directed the Oscar-nominated film A Single Man,[3] and, as of 2016, is directing Nocturnal Animals.

Early life

Tom Ford was born August 27, 1961, in Austin, Texas, to realtors Shirley Burton (née Shirley Ann Thrasher) and Thomas David Ford.[4][5][6] He spent his early life in the suburbs of Houston, Texas, and in San Marcos, outside Austin; his family moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico, when he was 11.[7] In Santa Fe, he entered St. Michael's High School and later moved to Santa Fe Preparatory School, from which he graduated in 1979.[8]

Ford left Santa Fe at age 16, when he enrolled at Bard College at Simon's Rock, but quickly dropped out.[citation needed] He then moved to New York City to study art history at New York University (NYU).[9][10] Ford dropped out of NYU after a year, preferring to concentrate on acting in television commercials; at one time, he was in 12 national advertising campaigns simultaneously.[5][9][11]

Ford then began studying interior architecture at The New School's famous art and design college, Parsons The New School for Design.[12] During his time in New York, Ford became a fixture at the legendary nightclub Studio 54, where he realized he was gay.[13][14] The club's disco-era glamor would be a major influence on his later designs.[15][16] Before his last year at New School, Ford spent a year and a half in Paris, where he worked as an intern in Chloé's press office.[17][18] Though his work primarily involved sending clothes out on photo shoots, it triggered his love of fashion. He spent his final year at The New School studying fashion, but nonetheless graduated with a degree in architecture.[18][19]

Early career

When interviewing for jobs after graduation, Ford said that he had attended The New School's Parsons division, but concealed that he graduated in architecture,[3] and that his work at Chloé was a low-level public relations position. Despite his lack of experience, Ford called American designer Cathy Hardwick every day for a month in hopes of securing a job at her mid-price sportswear company. Eventually, she agreed to see him. Hardwick later recalled the incident: "I had every intention of giving him no hope. I asked him who his favorite European designers were. He said, 'Armani and Chanel.' Months later I asked him why he said that, and he said, 'Because you were wearing something Armani'. Is it any wonder he got the job?" Ford worked as a design assistant for Hardwick for two years.[3]

In 1988, Ford moved to Perry Ellis,[3] where he knew both Robert McDonald, the company's president, and Marc Jacobs, its designer, socially. He stayed at the company for two years, but grew tired of working in American fashion. In a later interview with the New York Times, he commented, "If I was ever going to become a good designer, I had to leave America. My own culture was inhibiting me. Too much style in America is tacky. It's looked down upon to be too stylish. Europeans, however, appreciate style."

Ford would soon have the opportunity to enter the world of European fashion; Gucci, a faltering luxury goods company, was seeking to strengthen its women's ready-to-wear presence as a part of a brand overhaul. At the time, "no one would dream of wearing Gucci," said Dawn Mello, then the company's creative director. Mello hired Ford—then a near-unknown—as the brand's chief women's ready-to-wear designer in 1990.[3] "I was talking to a lot of people, and most didn't want the job," Mello said. "For an American designer to move to Italy to join a company that was far from being a brand would have been pretty risky." Ford and his longtime partner, fashion journalist Richard Buckley, relocated to Milan that September.[3]

Ford's role at Gucci rapidly expanded; he was designing menswear within six months, and shoes soon after that. When Richard Lambertson left as design director in 1992, Ford took over his position,[3] heading the brand's ready-to-wear, fragrances, image, advertising, and store design. In 1993, when he was in charge of designing eleven product lines, Ford worked eighteen-hour days. During these years, there were creative tensions between Ford and Maurizio Gucci, the company's chairman and 50% owner. According to Mello, "Maurizio always wanted everything to be round and brown, and Tom wanted to make it square and black." Though Maurizio Gucci wanted to fire Ford, Domenico De Sole insisted that he remain.[3] Nonetheless, Ford's work during the early 1990s was primarily behind the scenes; his contributions to Gucci were overshadowed by those of Mello, who was the company's public face.

Creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent

Evening dress by Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Selected as Dress of the Year for 2004.

In 1994, Ford was promoted to creative director at Gucci. In his first year at the helm, he introduced Halston-style velvet hipsters, skinny satin shirts and car-finish metallic patent boots. In 1995, he brought in French stylist Carine Roitfeld and photographer Mario Testino to create a series of new ad campaigns for the company. Between 1995 and 1996, sales at Gucci increased by 90%. At one point, Ford was the largest individual shareholder of Gucci stock and options. By 1999, the house, which had been almost bankrupt when Ford joined, was valued at about $4.3 billion.[citation needed]

When Gucci acquired the house of Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) in 1999, Ford was named creative director of that label as well,[20] displacing Alber Elbaz who had been Saint Laurent's choice for creative director of the company's ready-to-wear line.[citation needed] Saint Laurent did not hide his displeasure with Ford's designs, stating "The poor man does what he can".[21] During his time as creative director for YSL, Ford nonetheless won numerous Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards. Like his work at Gucci, Ford was able to pull the classic fashion house back into the mainstream. His advertising campaigns for the YSL fragrances Opium (with a red-haired Sophie Dahl completely naked wearing only a necklace and stiletto heels in a sexually suggestive pose) and YSL M7 (with martial arts champion Samuel de Cubber in complete full-frontal nudity) have been famous and provocative.[citation needed]

In April 2004, Ford parted ways with the Gucci group after he and CEO Domenico de Sole, who is credited as Ford's partner in Gucci's success, failed to agree with PPR bosses over artistic control of the Group.[citation needed] He has since referred to this experience as "devastating" and as a "midlife crisis" because he had "put everything into that for fifteen years."[22] When Ford left in 2004, Gucci Group was valued at $10 billion.[citation needed]

Tom Ford label

Tom Ford boutique in The Crystals (Las Vegas)

After leaving Gucci, Ford launched a line of menswear, beauty, eyewear, and accessories in 2006, named after himself, "Tom Ford". Dominico De Sole became chairman of the Tom Ford label.[23]

Michelle Obama wore an ivory floor-length evening gown designed by Ford to Buckingham Palace in 2011.[24][25][26] Ford has also dressed Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Daniel Craig, Tom Hanks, Johnny Depp, Ryan Gosling, Will Smith, Julianne Moore, Hugh Jackman, Jon Hamm, and Henry Cavill.[27][28] Ford designed Daniel Craig's suits for his last three James Bond films: Quantum of Solace, Skyfall, and Spectre.[27][29]

Controversies

Nude advertisements

Ford has been criticized for using naked women in various ad campaigns. Various journalists asserted that the ads were vulgar, sexist, or objectified women. One ad featuring a nude woman holding a bottle of the perfume between her legs. Another featured a naked woman ironing a man's pants while he read a newspaper. A seperate ad was banned in Italy.[30][31][32][33]

Responding to criticism that he objectified women, Ford stated he is an "equal opportunity objectifier" and is "just as happy to objectify men". He argued "you can't show male nudity in our culture in the way you can show female nudity" and pointed out that he did a male nude ad while at Yves Saint Laurent which got pulled.[34][35]

Penis necklace

In 2014, Ford released a new product, called the "Penis Pendant Necklace". The product caused some controversy, with Christians calling it offensive due to the pendant being shaped similar to a Christian cross or crucifix.[36][37][38] Ford replied that "it was not meant to be a cross, it was a phallus" and "people read into things that they want to".[35]

Public image

In March 2011, Ford was featured on the cover of the bi-annual publication AnOther Man, the fraternal counterpart to Another Magazine, giving his opinion on what makes the modern day gentleman.[39] In 2015, he was named one of GQ's 50 best dressed men.[40] He also received a CFDA Fashion Award for Menswear designer of the year.[41]

In 2013, Tom Ford was mentioned in Justin Timberlake's song "Suit & Tie", which was a collaboration with Jay Z.[42][43] Ford created the suits, shirts, and accessories for the Grammy winning "Suit & Tie" music video.[28] Later the same year, Jay Z released a song titled "Tom Ford" with "Tom Ford" rapped numerous times within the song.[44][45] Ford responded that he was flattered and "it means that one has really penetrated and made an impact on popular culture."[46] Following the songs release, Tom Ford received a huge spike in online search engine queries.[28][47]

Career as a film director

A Single Man

Ford at the 66th Venice Film Festival, with A Single Man's Julianne Moore and Colin Firth

In March 2005, Ford announced the launch of his film production company, Fade to Black. In 2009 he made his directorial debut with A Single Man,[3] based on the novel of the same name by Christopher Isherwood. The drama stars Colin Firth as an LA-based, gay college professor, alongside Julianne Moore, Nicholas Hoult and Matthew Goode. The screenplay was adapted by Canadian David Scearce and Ford; Ford was also one of the producers.

A Single Man premiered on September 11, 2009 at the 66th Venice International Film Festival, where it was nominated for top award the Golden Lion. Colin Firth was awarded the Volpi Cup as Best Actor for his performance. He won a BAFTA Award for Best Actor in a Leading Role, and was nominated for an Academy Award,[48] Golden Globe,[49] Independent Spirit Award and Screen Actors Guild Award.

Other nominations for the film included two further Golden Globe categories: Julianne Moore for Best Supporting Actress, and Abel Korzeniowski for Best Original Score. At the Independent Spirit Awards, the film was nominated for Best First Feature and Best First Screenplay.[50] Ford and David Scearce, who had first adapted the book into a novel, also received a nomination for Best Adapted Screenplay at the Broadcast Film Critics Association Awards.

Nocturnal Animals

In 2015, Ford became attached to direct Nocturnal Animals, an adaptation of the Austin Wright book Tony and Susan, with George Clooney and Grant Heslov serving as producers.[51] Jake Gyllenhaal and Amy Adams will play the lead roles as Tony and Susan.[52] With Armie Hammer, Kim Basinger and Aaron Taylor-Johnson also joining the film.[53][54][55]

Personal life

Ford is married to Richard Buckley, a journalist and former editor in chief of Vogue Hommes International; they have been in a relationship since meeting in 1986.[56] The couple have a son, Alexander John "Jack"[20] Buckley Ford, born in September 2012.[57] The family lived in Italy, where Ford moved from New York in 1990.[58] Ford lives in his residences in Los Angeles, Santa Fe, and London.[59] Ford and Buckley have owned smooth fox terriers, which have appeared on the runway and in his film A Single Man.[60]

Politics

Ford is a Democrat. He disagreed with America's invasion of Iraq in 2003, stating that he felt "ashamed to be an American". His comment drew public criticism within America.[34] Ford supported Barack Obama's elections, including hosting a fundraising dinner.[61]

Ford has advocated for federal recognition of same-sex marriage in the United States. In an 2009 interview, he said he preferred the term "civil partnership" for both opposite-sex and same-sex partnerships, and to leave "marriage" to religion to decide.[62]

Filmography

Awards and nominations

Ford has been recognized by important design and cultural councils worldwide, including the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum and TIME.

  • 1995: International Award – Council of Fashion Designers of America[3]
  • 1997: People Magazine's 50 Most Beautiful People
  • 1999: Style Icon Award – Elle Style Awards UK[3]
  • 2000: Best International Designer – VH1/Vogue Awards[3]
  • 2000: Fashion Editors Club of Japan Award
  • 2000: British GQ International Man of the Year Award
  • 2000: Superstar Award – Fashion Group International
  • 2001: Womenswear Designer of the Year – Council of Fashion Designers of America[3]
  • 2001: Best Fashion Designer – TIME Magazine
  • 2001: Designer of the Year – GQ USA[3]
  • 2001: Board of Directors Special Tribute – Council of Fashion Designers of America[3]
  • 2002: Accessory Designer of the Year Award for Yves Saint-Laurent – Council of Fashion Designers of America[3]
  • 2003: Fashion Design Achievement Award – Cooper-Hewitt Design Museum's National Design Awards[3]
  • 2004: Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award[3]
  • 2004: International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame
  • 2005: André Leon Talley Lifetime Achievement Award – Savannah College of Art & Design[3]
  • 2006: Accessory Brand Launch – Accessories Council Excellence (ACE) Awards [63]
  • 2007: GLAAD Media Awards – Victor Russo Award
  • 2007: DNR's Person of the Year
  • 2008: Menswear Designer of the Year – Council of Fashion Designers of America[3]
  • 2009: Venice Film Festival – Golden Lion for A Single Man (Nominee)
  • 2009: Venice Film Festival – Queer Lion for A Single Man
  • 2009: Critics Choice Awards – Best Adapted Screenplay for A Single Man (Nominee)
  • 2009: Independent Spirit Awards – Best First Screenplay for A Single Man (Nominee)
  • 2009: Independent Spirit Awards – Best First Feature for A Single Man (Nominee)
  • 2009: Honored as one of GQ USA's Men of the Year
  • 2009: GQ Germany Man of the Year
  • 2010: GLAAD Media Awards – Outstanding Film Wide Release for A Single Man
  • 2010: Menswear Designer of the Year – Council of Fashion Designers of America (Nominee)
  • 2013: Named one of the 50 best-dressed over 50s by the Guardian.[64]
  • 2014: CDFA Fashion Awards 2014 - Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award[65][66]
  • 2015: CFDA Fashion Awards 2015 - Menswear Designer of the Year

Books

  • Ford, Tom (2004). Tom Ford. Foreword by Anna Wintour, introduction by Graydon Carter, and interview and text by Bridget Foley. London: Thames & Hudson. ISBN 0-500-51197-7. OCLC 62795301.

References

  1. ^ Tom Ford biography at Bio.
  2. ^ "Texas Births, 1926-1995". Familytreelegends.com. August 27, 1961. Retrieved December 24, 2011.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t "Tom Ford," Newsmakers, (1999) Biography In Context, Gale, Detroit
  4. ^ Sharpe, Tom. "Ford: Santa Fe Is Home". Santa Fe New Mexican (November 10, 2005).
  5. ^ a b Dingus, Anne. "Tom Ford". Texas Monthly (September 1998).
  6. ^ https://familysearch.org/ark:/61903/1:1:VDNH-5L6
  7. ^ Bonnin, Julie. "Tom Ford Gucci: One-time Central Texan becomes Gucci god". Austin American-Statesman (August 18, 1997).
  8. ^ Mayfield, Dan. "Designer's New Direction". Albuquerque Journal (October 24, 2004).
  9. ^ a b "Style icon has ties to Santa Fe". Albuquerque Journal (January 11, 2002).[dead link]
  10. ^ Porter, Charlie. "Paris Style". The Guardian (March 16, 2001).
  11. ^ Shaeffer, Brittany. "Ford Is Bigger, Louder Than Ever". New York Daily News (April 13, 2005).
  12. ^ Dazman, Manan. "In Ford-ward drive". New Straits Times (December 11, 2003).
  13. ^ "Tom Ford: the hard-driven Texan behind the rebirth of Gucci". Agence France-Presse (April 12, 2005).
  14. ^ Frankel, Susannah. "A Bigger Splash". The Independent (January 16, 1999).
  15. ^ Groskop, Viv. "Style King". Sunday Express (February 29, 2004).
  16. ^ Porter, Charlie. "End of designer era could see Ford and De Sole set up own label". The Guardian (November 5, 2003).
  17. ^ Sharkey, Alix (January 20, 2000). "How the man in black conquered the world". The Independent. Archived from the original on September 1, 2009.
  18. ^ a b "Gucci uses its loafer". South China Morning Post (December 4, 1994).
  19. ^ Luther, Marylou. "Cynicism key to fashion today, Ford says". The Plain Dealer (March 14, 1996).
  20. ^ a b Foxman, Ariel (11 February 2016). "Tom Ford Wants to Change the Way We Shop". TIME. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  21. ^ Schiro, Anne-Marie (June 2, 2008). "Yves Saint Laurent, Giant of Couture, Dies at 71". The New York Times.
  22. ^ "Tom Ford: "I am really a loner after all"". The Talks. 20 July 2011. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  23. ^ Avins, Mimi (February 28, 2006). "Tom Ford to launch his own label". Los Angeles Times.
  24. ^ Chernikoff, Leah (25 May 2011). "Michelle Obama stuns in Tom Ford at Buckingham Palace; Could it be her best black tie look to date?". Fashionista. Breaking Media. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  25. ^ Friedman, Vanessa (2015-06-17). "Michelle Obama Stages Her Own London Fashion Week". The New York Times. Retrieved 2016-02-27.
  26. ^ Odell, Amy (25 May 2011). "Michelle Obama Wore Tom Ford to a Buckingham Palace Banquet". The Cut. New York (magazine). Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  27. ^ a b Karmali, Sarah (25 September 2012). "Tom Ford On James Bond's Skyfall Wardrobe". Vogue UK. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  28. ^ a b c Tschorn, Adam (8 August 2013). "Yahoo searches for 'Tom Ford' spike -- is Jay Z the reason?". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  29. ^ Sagoo, Shereen (17 November 2015). "Buy Like Bond". British GQ. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  30. ^ Wallis, David (4 June 2012). "The Breast of Advertising: From Hooters to the cover of 'Time,' does the strategy sell or repel?". Adweek. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  31. ^ Allwood, Emma Hope (13 May 2015). "Fashion v censorship: a history of banned ads". Dazed. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  32. ^ Stampler, Laura (10 April 2012). "These Modern Ads Are Even More Sexist Than Their 'Mad Men' Era Counterparts". Business Insider. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  33. ^ "Italy gives the finger to latest Tom Ford ad". Adweek. 25 April 2008. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  34. ^ a b Hughes, Sali (2015-03-21). "Tom Ford: 'I'm an equal opportunity objectifier'". The Guardian. Retrieved 2016-03-04.
  35. ^ a b "Tom Ford's Penis Necklace Controversy | Tom Ford Interview". CNBC International. 2015-02-24. Retrieved 2016-03-04.
  36. ^ Tsjeng, Zing (15 December 2014). "Christians outraged by Tom Ford cross-shaped penis necklace". Dazed. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  37. ^ Sharkey, Linda (11 December 2014). "Tom Ford's 18 carat gold penis necklace is now on sale - just in time for Christmas". The Independent. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  38. ^ Rahman, Khaleda (13 December 2014). "Is this the rudest necklace ever? Controversial designer Tom Ford's 'unbelievably offensive' phallic pendants spark fury". Daily Mail. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  39. ^ "Exclusives: Tom Ford". AnOther. Retrieved December 24, 2011.
  40. ^ "50 Best Dressed Men in Britain 2015". GQ. 5 Jan 2015.
  41. ^ "CFDA 2015 Winners" cfda.com, June 1st, 2015.
  42. ^ "Tom Ford Responds to Jay-Z's Name Drop | E! Online UK". Eonline.com. 2013-07-11. Retrieved 2013-10-16.
  43. ^ Ramos, Dorkys. "Tom Ford Responds to Jay-Z's Musical Ode to the Designer | News". BET. Retrieved 2013-10-16.
  44. ^ "Jay-Z "Previews "Tom Ford" (Magna Carta Promo)" Video". Hotnewhiphop.com. Retrieved 2013-10-16.
  45. ^ "Jay-Z debuts 'Tom Ford' track - Telegraph". Fashion.telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 2013-10-16.
  46. ^ "Tom Ford Flattered by Jay-Z's New Track Named After Him - The Cut". Nymag.com. Retrieved 2013-10-16.
  47. ^ "Jay-Z's 'Tom Ford' Shout Out on 'Magna Carta' Album Makes Designer Feel 'Flattered': Exclusive". Billboard. 2013-07-08. Retrieved 2013-10-16.
  48. ^ "Movie Guide" (February 12, 2010) Arlington Heights Daily Herald
  49. ^ "Saucy Globes heavy on dark, sober themes" (January 17, 2010) Doylestown Intelligencer
  50. ^ "Spirit Awards 2010 | Tom Ford: 'I have always been obsessed by film.'", Indiewire, February 17, 2013.
  51. ^ Borys Kit (March 24, 2015). "Tom Ford Teams with George Clooney for Thriller 'Nocturnal Animals'". The Hollywood Reporter. Retrieved April 24, 2015.
  52. ^ "Tom Ford's 'Nocturnal Animals' Starring Jake Gyllenhaal, Amy Adams Sells for $20 Million to Focus Features". The Warp. 17 May 2015. Retrieved 29 May 2015.
  53. ^ "Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Michael Shannon Join Jake Gyllenhaal's 'Nocturnal Animals'". Variety. August 6, 2015.
  54. ^ "Kim Basinger Joins Tom Ford's 'Nocturnal Animals'". Deadline. August 14, 2015.
  55. ^ "Armie Hammer Joins Tom Ford's 'Nocturnal Animals'". Variety. August 28, 2015.
  56. ^ D'Zurilla, Christie (April 8, 2014). "Designer Tom Ford reveals he and Richard Buckley are married". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved April 19, 2014.
  57. ^ "Tom Ford Welcomes Son Alexander John", People, October 5, 2012.
  58. ^ "Tom Ford - Voguepedia". Vogue.com. Retrieved April 19, 2014.
  59. ^ "About Tom Ford". Tom Ford Online Store. Retrieved 2016-03-02.
  60. ^ Donaldson James, Susan (March 12, 2008). "More Gay Men Choose Surrogacy to Have Children". ABC News. Retrieved December 24, 2011.
  61. ^ "Ford hosts with Wintour, Marks Club fundraiser".
  62. ^ Sessums, Kevin (9 November 2009). "Tom Ford Tells All". The Advocate. Retrieved 5 March 2016.
  63. ^ The Accessories Council Excellence (ACE) Awards – Accessories Council
  64. ^ Cartner-Morley, Jess; Mirren, Helen; Huffington, Arianna; Amos, Valerie (March 28, 2013). "The 50 best-dressed over 50s". The Guardian. London.
  65. ^ "Tom Ford Receives CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award". March 27, 2014.
  66. ^ "CFDA Fashion Awards". March 27, 2014.
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