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Upper and Lower Table Rock: Difference between revisions

Coordinates: 42°27′54″N 122°56′06″W / 42.465°N 122.935°W / 42.465; -122.935
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Four [[cave]]s are located at the base of the andesite cap on Upper Table Rock. Two were created by natural [[Fracture (geology)|fractures]] in the cap, and the other two were [[Gold mining|excavated]] by [[Prospecting|prospectors]] looking for [[gold]]. Three are large enough to walk into, and average {{convert|8|ft|m}} wide. One is a small [[Pit cave|pit]], dropping {{convert|30|ft|m}} vertically into a small pond of water.<ref name="Book"/>
Two [[cave]]s and two former [[Gold mining|gold mines]] are located at the base of the andesite cap on Upper Table Rock. The caves were created by natural [[Fracture (geology)|fractures]] in the cap, and the gold mines were [[Resource extraction|excavated]] by [[Prospecting|prospectors]] searching for [[gold]]. Three are large enough to walk into, and average {{convert|8|ft|m}} wide. One is a small [[Pit cave|pit]], dropping {{convert|30|ft|m}} vertically into a small pond of water.<ref name="Book"/>


The [[climate]] of the Table Rocks is [[Mediterranean climate|Mediterranean]]. [[Temperature]]s average between {{convert|32|F|C}} and {{convert|100|F|C}}, often going above that in the [[summer]]. It sometimes [[snow]]s in the [[winter]]. The average [[wind speed]] in the area is {{convert|6|mph|km/h}}, and the annual [[Precipitation (meteorology)|precipitation]] is approximately {{convert|18|in|mm}}.<ref name="Book"/>
The [[climate]] of the Table Rocks is [[Mediterranean climate|Mediterranean]]. [[Temperature]]s average between {{convert|32|F|C}} and {{convert|100|F|C}}, often going above that in the [[summer]]. It sometimes [[snow]]s in the [[winter]]. The average [[wind speed]] in the area is {{convert|6|mph|km/h}}, and the annual [[Precipitation (meteorology)|precipitation]] is approximately {{convert|18|in|mm}}.<ref name="Book"/>

Revision as of 15:16, 22 July 2009

Upper and Lower Table Rock
Lower Table Rock across the Rogue Valley from Roxy Ann Peak
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LocationJackson County, Oregon
Nearest cityCentral Point, Oregon
Coordinates42°27′54″N 122°56′06″W / 42.465°N 122.935°W / 42.465; -122.935
Governing bodyBureau of Land Management and The Nature Conservancy
www.blm.gov/or/resources/recreation/tablerock/index.php

Upper Table Rock and Lower Table Rock are two prominent volcanic plateaus located just north of the Rogue River in Jackson County, Oregon. They are approximately seven million years old.[1][2] The land is jointly owned; The Nature Conservancy is responsible for 3,591 acres (14.53 km2), while the Bureau of Land Management is responsible for 1,280 acres (5.2 km2).[3][4][5] The rocks are home to over 70 species of animals, 140 species of plants, and 200 species of wildflowers, in four distinct habitats.[6][7][8] The Table Rocks have been listed as an Area of Critical Environmental Concern since 1984.[9][10] They are presently one of the most popular hiking locations in the Rogue Valley.[9][10][11]

The plateaus are named for their location along the Rogue River, not for their height. Upper Table Rock, 2,091 feet (637 m) above sea level at its highest point, is located upstream, while Lower Table Rock is farther downstream, with an elevation of 2,049 feet (625 m).[9][11]

Geology and climate

File:Upper and Lower Table Rock Terrain.png
Terrain of Upper and Lower Table Rock

The Upper and Lower Table Rocks were created approximately seven million years ago when Olson Mountain, near present day Lost Creek Lake, erupted.[1][2] The 44-mile (71 km) long lava flow produced by the eruption nearly blanketed the entire Rogue Valley, covering an ancient Rogue River canyon with over 100 feet (30 m) of lava.[1][3][9][12] Since that time, the Rogue River has eroded most of the lava away from the canyon, leaving behind a sheet of hard andesite with an average thickness of 125 feet (38 m).[3][8][9][12] The Table Rocks are an example of inverted topography.[9][13]

Upper Table Rock from the Denman Wildlife Area

Presently, they stand 800 feet (240 m) above the valley floor, and just over 2,000 feet (610 m) above sea level. Both plateaus are shaped roughly like a horseshoe, caused by meanders of a much younger Rogue River.[4][8][9][12] The surfaces of both Upper Table Rock and Lower Table Rock are somewhat flat, but are speckled with vernal pools known to sustain a threatened species of fairy shrimp.[3][9][14][15] There is approximately 300 acres (1.2 km2) of level ground on Lower Table Rock, and 500 acres (2.0 km2) on Upper Table Rock.[8]

Erosion of the andesite caps is the largest contributor to the shape of the Table Rocks today. Expansive talus fields now surround the plateaus on all sides, creating slopes where plant and animal life has been able to take hold. In fact, four overlapping regions have been identified, with large distinctions in the assortment of wildlife found in each one. They are called oak savanna, chaparral, mixed woodland, and mounded prairie and are respectively ordered from the outermost base of the rocks to the relatively flat tops.[1][7][9][16]

Two caves and two former gold mines are located at the base of the andesite cap on Upper Table Rock. The caves were created by natural fractures in the cap, and the gold mines were excavated by prospectors searching for gold. Three are large enough to walk into, and average 8 feet (2.4 m) wide. One is a small pit, dropping 30 feet (9.1 m) vertically into a small pond of water.[9]

The climate of the Table Rocks is Mediterranean. Temperatures average between 32 °F (0 °C) and 100 °F (38 °C), often going above that in the summer. It sometimes snows in the winter. The average wind speed in the area is 6 miles per hour (9.7 km/h), and the annual precipitation is approximately 18 inches (460 mm).[9]

History

Prior to the arrival of white settlers in the Rogue Valley, the area surrounding the Table Rocks was home to the Takelma people who used several names for the rocks, such as Di'tani, Titanakh, and possibly Kwenphunkh.[9][17][18] The first use of the names Upper Table Rock and Lower Table Rock is unknown, however the first recorded use was in mountain man James Clyman's journal, in the late 1830s.[9]

During the gold rush of the early 1850s, conflicts with the Rogue River Indians turned into warfare, and several treaties were signed in an attempt to end the hostilities.[4][19][20] The Native Americans ceded their land by 1853 and the population underwent their first forced migration into the Table Rock Reservation, located between Upper Table Rock and nearby Evans Creek. This Indian reservation remained open for three years,[19][20][21] at which time the inhabitants were moved to other reservations.[22]

Development of the area commenced immediately and in 1872 the Table Rock Post Office was established. In 1895 the post office's name was changed to Tablerock. It was closed in 1906.[21][23][24]

In November 1948, an airstrip was constructed on the surface of Lower Table Rock by local cattle rancher and land developer John Day, to impress visiting celebrities from Hollywood. He funded residential lots near the landmark with the intent of marketing to visiting celebrities who used the grassy runway. It was closed in the late 1980s, but small airplanes occasionally attempt to land on it.[8][9][25][26]

The VOR aviation tower on Upper Table Rock

The Federal Aviation Administration has operated a 25-foot (7.6 m) tall very high frequency omni-directional range (VOR) aviation tower on Upper Table Rock since the 1960s.[8][9][27] The purpose of the tower is to broadcast precise coordinates to nearby aircraft to assist in navigation. Due to the threat to safety, the facility is closed to the public. However, the structure sustained $40,000 worth of damage in 1997 when vandals unsuccessfully attempted to steal aluminum antennas from the 15-foot (4.6 m) tall fiberglass shell on the roof of the building.[27]

The Nature Conservancy became concerned about overdevelopment in 1978 and launched its largest fundraising project to that date. Raising over $500,000, they purchased 1,881 acres (7.61 km2) of Lower Table Rock, creating the Lower Table Rock Preserve.[3][8][9][28][29] Projects include prescribed burning and invasive species removal.[30]

In 1981, the Upper Table Rock Trail was built by the Youth Conservation Corps. A year later, the Lower Table Rock Trail was constructed. The first 400 feet (120 m) was built by a Central Point boy scout troop, while the rest was built by the Oregon Department of Forestry.[9] In 1984, the Table Rocks were designated as an Area of Critical Environmental Concern.[8][10] In May 2009, The Nature Conservancy bought another 1,710 acres (6.9 km2) of land on the Table Rocks for $3.9 million, ending private ownership of the rocks.[5]

Flora and fauna

Western fence lizard on Lower Table Rock. A western buttercup can be seen blooming above it.

There are four distinct habitats on the Table Rocks. Oak savanna can be found on the lowest slopes, with chaparral and mixed woodland farther up. Vernal pools fill in from October to June on the top of the plateaus due to the impermeable andesite located there.[8][9][16] Over 140 species of plants grow on the rocks,[6] and another 200 species of wildflowers can be found.[7] Some of the most common are buttercups, desert parsley, lupine, and goldfields.[7][8][9][31][32] Camas and death camas also grow on the rocks. Camas produces an edible bulb, while death camas is poisonous and was used by the Takelma as a anasthetic.[33]

Over seventy species of animals are known to live on the Table Rocks.[8] Lizards such as the western fence lizard, southern alligator lizard, and western skink can be seen in all four regions of the Table Rocks. Western rattlesnakes and two species of garter snakes also live in all regions.[8][9][34] Black-tailed deer, coyotes, and bobcats are some of the mammals that live on the Table Rocks. The rocks are also home to many ticks, although they are mainly found in the chaparral region.[8][9][11] Many species of birds live on the rocks.[9][35]

Oak savanna

White oak, ponderosa pine, and multiple species of grasses are the most common vegetation found in the oak savanna on the lower slopes of the Table Rocks.[9][31] Buckbrush, madrone, deerbrush, manzanita, mountain mahogany, and poison oak are also common.[7][8][9]

Snakes such as the ringneck snake, western yellow-bellied racer, striped whipsnake, and gopher snake live in the oak savanna region.[8][9][34] Birds such as titmice, flycatchers, nuthatches, bluebirds, swallows, woodpeckers, grosbeaks, and kestrels can also be found in this region. More rarely, the blue-gray gnatcatcher can be seen.[8][9][15][29][35]

Chaparral

Lower Table Rock from Kirtland Road to the south.

Sclerophyllous plants such as manzanita and buckbrush can be found in the chaparral region farther up.[8][9][36] These species rely on fire to reproduce.[8][9]

Black bears have been spotted in the fall in this area.[9] The most common birds in this region include titmice and the acorn woodpecker. Blue-gray gnatcatchers, goldfinches, and the Anna's hummingbird have also been seen.[8][9][35]

Mixed woodland

Black oak, douglas fir, madrone, incense cedar, and other plants are located in the mixed woodland near the top.[7][8][37] Shrubs such as Oregon grape, elderberry, honeysuckle, and poison oak also grow here. The soil in this area is mostly loam.[8][9]

Rodents such as the California ground squirrel, western gray squirrel, and dusky footed woodrat live in this region.[8][9][38] Birds such as grosbeaks, flycatchers, tanagers, and buntings are common in the area. Nine species of warblers, three species of vireos, and two species of thrushes also can be found. The pileated woodpecker have been spotted rarely in large pine trees.[8][9][35]

Vernal pools and mounded prairie

Mounded prairie with Roxy Ann Peak in the distance. Hikers can be seen in the center of the picture.

Many species of grasses can be found on the top of the plateaus around vernal pools. The dwarf woolly meadowfoam, a plant endemic to the Table Rocks, grows near these pools.[8][15][29] They can be seen blooming for about ten days in April.[9] When filled, the pools are also a known habitat for a threatened species of fairy shrimp, (branchinecta lynchi), which can be found in the winter and early spring.[15][39][40]

Two types of amphibians can be found in the mounded prairie region, typically around vernal pools. The Pacific tree frog live in large numbers on the Rocks, while tadpoles of the rarer western toad can be seen between March and May.[9][34] Mammals such as California voles, Heerman's kangaroo rats, raccoons, and weasels can also be found in this region.[9][38] The western meadowlark and two species of sparrows are the most common types of birds that can be seen in the area. Turkey vultures, rock wren, three species of hawks, and other birds can be seen patrolling the cliffs on the sides of the plateaus.[8][9][35]

Trails

Upper Table Rock Trail

The Table Rocks are presently one of the most popular hiking locations in the Rogue Valley, with up to 10,000 visitors annually.[9][10][11] Upper Table Rock features a walking trail which climbs approximately 720 feet (220 m) to the top of the plateau over 1.25 miles (2.01 km). Lower Table Rock also has a walking trail, 1.75 miles (2.82 km) long. It ascends approximately 780 feet (240 m). Landmarks such as Mount McLoughlin, Mount Ashland, Roxy Ann Peak, and Pilot Rock are visible from the edge of the rocks.[8][9][41][42]

The trails leading to the tops of the Table Rocks were built in the early 1980s by the Youth Conservation Corps, boy scouts, and the Oregon Department of Forestry around the same time the plateaus were being nominated as an Area of Critical Environmental Concern.[9][10] In June 1999, only two small trees were cut when Shady Cove contractor Randy Hodges rerouted a 0.75-mile (1.21 km) section of the Lower Table Rock trail to accommodate the growing number of visitors. The project involved decommissioning the old section and expanding the parking lot, and 2,200 feet (670 m) of new trail was installed. Measures to protect the trail were implemented such as rock waterbars and a layer of shale gravel over the clay.[43]

In 2005, a program to build an interpretive trail began on Lower Table Rock near the trailhead. Prior to construction, some persons with disabilities, children, or the elderly may have been prevented from using either of the Table Rocks due to the steep terrain and narrow paths. The finished project involved making a 500 feet (150 m) section of trail accessible and adding 0.5 miles (0.80 km) of new trails for general public use.[44]

Both trails lead to spectacular views of the surrounding areas,[41] but the andesite caps are thick and heavily eroded with tall columns of crumbling basalt. Unwary hikers are advised not to approach the edge the rocks,[45] however in April of 2007 a 22-year old Medford man fell to his death while climbing.[46] Another man fell 100 feet (30 m) in 2007, but fortunately survived.[45] In 2008, a man from Central Point tumbled through a rock shaft to his death and was not found for over six months.[47]

References

  1. ^ a b c d "Geology". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 24, 2009.
  2. ^ a b Since You Asked (April 15, 2000). "Table Rocks offer study in geology". Mail Tribune. Retrieved April 28, 2009.
  3. ^ a b c d e "Table Rock Fun Facts". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 23, 2009.
  4. ^ a b c Allen, Cain (2003). "Table Rocks". Oregon History Project. Retrieved April 23, 2009. {{cite web}}: External link in |publisher= (help)
  5. ^ a b Fattig, Paul (May 6, 2009). "Purchase ends private ownership of the Table Rocks". Mail Tribune. Retrieved May 6, 2009.
  6. ^ a b Pollock, Buffy (January 16, 2008). "Hiking the incredible Table Rocks". Joy Magazine. Mail Tribune. Retrieved June 17, 2009.
  7. ^ a b c d e f Horn, Elizabeth (2006). Oregon's Best Wildflower Hikes. Big Earth Publishing. pp. 82–86. ISBN 9781565795334. Retrieved May 18, 2009.
  8. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z Seevers, Joan; Borgias, Darren (1993). "Upper and Lower Table Rocks, Jackson County" (PDF). Kalmiopsis. Retrieved June 4, 2009. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  9. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an Reyes, Chris; Kennedy, David; Capps, Gerard; Janes, Stewart; Latimer, Shane (1994). The Table Rocks of Jackson County: Islands in the Sky. Last Minute Publications. ISBN 978-0-9637486-0-7. Retrieved on May 15, 2009.
  10. ^ a b c d e "Welcome to the Table Rocks". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 23, 2009.
  11. ^ a b c d Davis, James (2009). The Northwest Nature Guide. Timber Press. p. 95. ISBN 9780881928679. Retrieved April 29, 2009.
  12. ^ a b c Battaile, Connie (1998). The Oregon Book: Information A to Z. Saddle Mountain Press. pp. 560–561. ISBN 978-0-9657638-2-0. Retrieved on April 27, 2009.
  13. ^ Bishop, Ellen; Allen, John (2004). Hiking Oregon's geology (2 ed.). The Mountaineers Books. pp. 34–36. ISBN 9780898868470. Retrieved April 25, 2009.
  14. ^ "About the Table Rocks". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 25, 2009.
  15. ^ a b c d "Lower Table Rock". The Nature Conservancy. Retrieved April 25, 2009.
  16. ^ a b "Plant Communities". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved May 15, 2009.
  17. ^ Joy B. Dunn, ed. (1993). Land in Common. Southern Oregon Historical Society. p. 18. ISBN 978-0-943388-11-3. Retrieved on April 27, 2009.
  18. ^ Gray, Dennis (1987). "The Takelma and Their Athapascan Neighbors" (PDF). Southern Oregon University. p. 76. Retrieved May 5, 2009.
  19. ^ a b "What happened to the Takelma?". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved September 29, 2007.
  20. ^ a b "East Fork of the Illinois River Watershed Analysis Social Module" (PDF). US Forest Service. Retrieved September 29, 2007.
  21. ^ a b McArthur, Lewis A. (2003). Oregon Geographic Names (7 ed.). Portland, Oregon: Oregon Historical Society Press. p. 712. ISBN 978-0-87595-277-2. {{cite book}}: Unknown parameter |coauthors= ignored (|author= suggested) (help) Retrieved on June 2, 2009.
  22. ^ "Echoes of Oregon Request to Open Indian Lands, 1857". Oregon State Archives. Retrieved November 20, 2007.
  23. ^ "Who settled the area after the Takelma?". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved May 4, 2009.
  24. ^ "Table Rock Post Office". Geographic Names Information System. United States Geological Survey, United States Department of the Interior. Retrieved May 4, 2009.
  25. ^ Miller, Bill (March 9, 2008). "History in the soles of your shoes". Mail Tribune. Retrieved April 28, 2009.
  26. ^ "Dwarf meadowfoam". Native Plant Conservation Program. Oregon Department of Agriculture. April 3, 2009. Retrieved April 28, 2009. {{cite web}}: External link in |work= (help)
  27. ^ a b Davis, Jim (November 25, 1997). "Unknown vandals knock out air traffic radar beacon". Mail Tribune. Retrieved June 1, 2009.
  28. ^ Jewell, Judy; Morris, Elizabeth; Morris, Mark; McRae, Bill (2007). Moon Oregon (7 ed.). Avalon Travel. p. 367. ISBN 9781566919302. Retrieved on April 29, 2009.
  29. ^ a b c Friedman, Ralph (1990). In Search of Western Oregon. Caldwell, Idaho: The Caxton Printers, Ltd. pp. 569, 730. ISBN 978-0-87004-332-1. Retrieved April 29, 2009.
  30. ^ "Lower Table Rock". The Nature Conservancy. Retrieved April 23, 2009.
  31. ^ a b "Oak Savanna". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 24, 2009.
  32. ^ Lorain, Douglas (2004). 100 Classic Hikes in Oregon. The Mountaineers Books. p. 60. ISBN 9780898869637. Retrieved April 29, 2009.
  33. ^ Fattig, Paul (March 26, 2008). "Springtime on Table Rocks". Mail Tribune. Retrieved June 17, 2009.
  34. ^ a b c "Reptiles and Amphibians of the Table Rocks". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 26, 2009.
  35. ^ a b c d e "Birds of the Table Rocks". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved May 3, 2009.
  36. ^ "Chaparral". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 24, 2009.
  37. ^ "Mixed Woodland". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 24, 2009.
  38. ^ a b "Mammals of the Table Rocks". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 26, 2009.
  39. ^ "Mounded Prairie/Vernal Pools". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 25, 2009.
  40. ^ "Fairy Shrimp Found on Southern Oregon Preserves". The Nature Conservancy. Retrieved June 5, 2009.
  41. ^ a b "Hiking the Table Rocks". Bureau of Land Management. Retrieved April 29, 2009.
  42. ^ Lee, Mary (May 19, 2008). "Vertical Gain: 10 hikes to get your heart pumping". Mail Tribune. Retrieved April 29, 2009.
  43. ^ Fattig, Paul (June 24, 1999). "Table Rock hike improved". Mail Tribune. Retrieved June 4, 2009.
  44. ^ "Lower Table Rock Accessible Interpretive Trail" (PDF). Bureau of Land Management. May 2, 2005. Retrieved May 4, 2009.
  45. ^ a b Lemon, Sarah (April 30, 2007). "A tragic reminder". Mail Tribune. Retrieved June 4, 2009.
  46. ^ "Medford man dies in table rock fall". Mail Tribune. April 29, 2007. Retrieved June 4, 2009.
  47. ^ Burke, Anita (January 6, 2009). "Police identify Lower Table Rock body". Mail Tribune. Retrieved June 4, 2009.