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Fashion of Diana, Princess of Wales

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The Princess of Wales at the 1987 Cannes Film Festival

The fashion of Diana, Princess of Wales, had a substantial impact on the clothing industry; her style in the 1980s and 1990s led her to be considered a fashion icon.

Fashion and style

The Princess chose her dressing style based on both the royal family's demands and popular modern styles in Britain,[1] and developed her personal fashion trend.[2]Anna Harvey, former Vogue editor and Diana's fashion mentor, stated that Diana was "very thoughtful" about how her clothing would be interpreted by the media and public.[3][4] David Sassoon, one of the designers who worked with Diana, believed she had "broken the rules" by trying new styles.[5]

Diana chose not to practise certain royal clothing customs, such as wearing gloves when meeting the public, as she believed it would prevent a direct connection with the people she met, including those affected by serious diseases like AIDS.[6][7] She wore certain types of clothes at charity events which appropriate for the people she would meet, including colourful dresses and "jangling jewels" so she could easily play with children at hospitals.[6][7] While on diplomatic trips, her attire were chosen to pay respect to the destination countries' culture.[3][7] She often incorporated national colors, symbols, and traditional dress into her wardrobe when abroad.[8] For instance, she wore a red and white polka-dotted dress, reflecting the Japanese flag during her trip in 1986, and chose a traditional shalwar kameez for her 1996 visit to Pakistan.[8] While off-duty, she wore loose jackets and jumpers.[3][7] Diana used fashion to spotlight organisations and charities by wearing their merchandise to polo matches and public events.[8] Her street style featured "statement knitwear": bold, kitschy sweaters from universities and sports teams, often paired with spandex bike shorts[8][9] GQ noted that she worked her everyday casual wear to become "tuxedo-level sharp".[9]

Diana made her debut as a Sloane Ranger in 1979 with a gown by Regamus.[2] Throughout her lifetime, she wore notable ensembles by fashion companies including Versace, Armani, Chanel, Dior, Gucci and Clarks.[3][10][11] Catherine Walker was among Diana's favourite designers[2] with whom she worked to create her "uniform" for royal work.[5] For her foreign tours and state visits, Walker and her husband researched to design clothes that wouldn't outshine Diana,[12] a viewpoint supported by Taki Theodoracopulos, who believed Diana did not want "to let her clothes wear her".[12] Eleri Lynn, curator of the exhibition Diana: Her Fashion Story, stated that the princess sought not to be known as a "clothes horse,"[6][13] and mentioned that the style designed by Diana and Walker "was a very slender, fluid silhouette" to mimic timeless fashion, rather than the trends of the time period.[14] Other custom ensembles were designed by Anya Hindmarch and Murray Arbeid.[15]

Diana wearing the Travolta dress, designed by Victor Edelstein in 1987

Before her marriage, she was observed sticking to "preppy sweater vests, printed midi-dresses, and equestrian boots".[15] In the early 1980s, Diana preferred to wear dresses with floral collars, pie-crust blouses, and pearls.[3][2][16] These items rapidly became fashion trends.[3] Her habit of wearing wide-shouldered gowns and lavish fabrics earned her the nickname "Dynasty Di".[5][6] Diana wore hats that featured texture as well as "feathers, veils, and bows".[17] Her early fashion choices were described as "demure and romantic", featuring pastels and ruffles.[17] Vogue noted that during this time her dressing was on par with the "ideal of a princess", using statement evening gowns as her "calling card".[15] As she grew in popularity, Diana began to experiment with bolder colors and silhouettes, before trying streamlined blazers and sheath dresses.[17] According to Donatella Versace, who worked closely with Diana, her interest and curiosity about fashion grew significantly after her separation from Charles.[12]

In the years after her marriage and then her divorce, Diana grew more confident in her choices,[5][18][4] and her style underwent a change, with her new choices consisting of structured blazers, one-shoulder and off-shoulder dresses, two-tone themed suits, military-styled suits, and nude-coloured outfits.[18] A white shirt and jeans, plaid dresses, jumpsuits and sheath dresses were among the fashion ensembles she tried.[18][19] She also experimented with slip dresses and bodycon styles.[15] Her dressing was influenced by celebrities including Cindy Crawford, Madonna, Elizabeth Taylor.[2] At the end of her life, her wardrobe became more practical with more sensible button-down blouses and skirt suites in an effort to redirect media focus toward her humanitarian work.[17][8] Throughout the decade, Diana was frequently photographed clutching distinctive handbags manufactured by Gucci and Dior; they would thereafter became known as Gucci Diana and Lady Dior, respectively.[20][21]

Among her iconic outfits are a décolleté by David and Elizabeth Emanuel worn by a newly engaged Diana at a charity event,[4] a cocktail dress by Christina Stambolian, commonly known as the "Revenge dress", which she wore after Charles's admission of adultery,[22] an evening gown by Victor Edelstein that she wore to a reception at the White House which later became known as the "Travolta dress",[3][5][2] a strapless blue Catherine Walker dress,[23] which was inspired by a dress worn by Grace Kelly in To Catch a Thief,[5] worn to the 1987 Cannes Film Festival,[24][25][26] and a Catherine Walker pearl-encrusted gown and jacket dubbed the "Elvis dress",[11][2] which she wore for the first time on an official visit to Hong Kong.[6][27] Many of these ensembles were considered "distinct moments" in pop culture.[15] At the suggestion of her son, Prince William, she auctioned off dozens of her dresses, including the "Travolta" and "Elvis" ensembles, in 1997, with the proceeds benefiting charities.[28][29]

Copies of Diana's British Vogue-featured pink chiffon blouse by David and Elizabeth Emanuel, which appeared on the magazine's cover on her engagement announcement day, sold in the millions.[2] She appeared on two more British Vogue covers during her lifetime and was featured on its October 1997 issue posthumously.[30] She was also featured in the cover story for the July 1997 issue of Vanity Fair.[31] The Princess's influential short hairstyle was created by Sam McKnight after a Vogue shoot in 1990, which, in McKnight and Donatella Versace's opinion, brought her more liberty as "it always looked great".[12] The Princess reportedly did her own make up and would always have a hairstylist by her side before an event. She told McKnight: "It's not for me, Sam. It is for the people I visit or who come to see me. They don't want me in off-duty mode, they want a princess. Let's give them what they want."[12]

Legacy

Diana was a fashion icon whose style was emulated by women around the world. Iain Hollingshead of The Telegraph wrote: "[Diana] had an ability to sell clothes just by looking at them."[32][33] An early example of the effect occurred during her courtship with Charles in 1980 when sales of Hunter Wellington boots skyrocketed after she was pictured wearing a pair on the Balmoral estate.[32][34] According to designers and people who worked with Diana, she used fashion and style to endorse her charitable causes, express herself and communicate.[12][35][6] Diana remained a prominent figure for her fashion style,[16][18] and is still considered an inspiration for stylists,[36] celebrities,[3][10] influencers[37] and young women.[38] This has been cited to the resurgence of certain trends, as well as the overall stylistic endurance of her ensembles.[37] Designers Virgil Abloh and Hedi Slimane are considered to be impacted by her style.[37] Diana's daughters-in-law, Catherine and Meghan, are believed to be influenced by her in developing their own professional wardrobe.[39][40][41] One of Diana's favourite milliners, John Boyd, said "Diana was our best ambassador for hats, and the entire millinery industry owes her a debt." Boyd's pink tricorn hat Diana wore for her honeymoon was later copied by milliners across the world and credited with rebooting an industry in decline for decades.[42][43]

The Princess was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1989.[44] In 2004, People cited her as one of the all-time most beautiful women.[45] In 2012, Time included Diana on its All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons list.[46] Donatella Versace later remarked that she didn't "think that anyone, before or after her, has done for fashion what Diana did".[12] Following the opening of an exhibition of Diana's clothes and dresses at Kensington Palace in 2017, Catherine Bennett of The Guardian said such exhibitions are among the suitable ways to commemorate public figures whose fashion styles were noted due to their achievements. The exhibition suggests to detractors who, like many other princesses, "looking lovely in different clothes was pretty much her life's work" which also brings interest in her clothing.[47]

In 2016, fashion designer Sharmadean Reid designed a collection of clothes for ASOS.com inspired by Diana's style.[38] "Di's incredible relationship with accessible sportswear through to luxury fashion forms the cornerstone of the collection and feels more modern than ever," Reid said about Diana in a press release.[16] Diana was an inspiration for Off-White's Spring 2018 show at Paris Fashion Week in 2017.[48] The designer Virgil Abloh used Diana's signature looks as fragments to design new suits and attire.[49][50] Supermodel Naomi Campbell, dressed in a combination of white blazer and cropped spandex leggings in reference to Diana's formal and off-duty styles, closed off the show.[48][49] In 2019, Tory Burch used Diana's early '80s style as an inspiration for her Spring 2020 show at New York Fashion Week.[51] In 2021, Rowing Blazers released a line of sweaters featuring similar, kistchy patterns worn by Diana in the eighties, following their display in The Crown.[37] Multiple fictional dramatizations of her life have prominently featured recreations of outfits and fashion sense.[52]

See also

References

  1. ^ "Diana, Style Icon". CBS News. Archived from the original on 2 December 2017. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h Hudson, Mark (22 February 2017). "Diana: Her Fashion Story, review: this riveting show of Diana's dresses shows just how magnificent she was". The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 12 March 2017. Retrieved 10 March 2017.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h Holt, Bethan (19 November 2016). "Why Princess Diana remains an enduring style icon for all generations". The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 29 January 2017. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  4. ^ a b c Mower, Sarah (1 November 2013). "Princess Diana's Iconic Style: Why We're Still Fascinated by Her Fashion Today". Vogue. Archived from the original on 25 November 2016. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  5. ^ a b c d e f "Princess Diana's changing fashion style explored in exhibition". BBC News. 19 February 2017. Archived from the original on 12 March 2017. Retrieved 10 March 2017.
  6. ^ a b c d e f Holt, Bethan (24 February 2017). "No gloves and high split skirts: How Princess Diana rewrote the rules of royal dressing". The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 4 April 2017. Retrieved 3 April 2017.
  7. ^ a b c d Tashjian, Rachel (23 February 2017). "How Princess Diana Became a Fashion Icon". Vanity Fair. Archived from the original on 26 February 2017. Retrieved 3 April 2017.
  8. ^ a b c d e {cite web |last1=Hills |first1=Megan C. |title=Diana at 60: How would the Princess of Wales have dressed in 2021? |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/princess-diana-sixtieth-birthday-fashion/index.html |website=CNN |access-date=25 August 2021}}
  9. ^ a b Tashjian, Rachel. "Princess Diana Is The Real King of Street Style". GQ Australia. Retrieved 25 August 2021.
  10. ^ a b Ferrier, Morwenna (4 April 2016). "Why Rihanna's obsessed with Princess Diana". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 2 February 2017. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  11. ^ a b Neel, Julia (15 April 2011). "Style File – Diana, Princess Of Wales". Vogue. Archived from the original on 21 November 2016. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  12. ^ a b c d e f g Paton, Elizabeth (22 February 2017). "Why Are We Still Obsessed With Princess Diana's Style?". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 8 November 2017. Retrieved 13 March 2017.
  13. ^ Menkes, Suzy (30 August 2017). "Diana – And Her Language of Clothes". British Vogue. Retrieved 28 March 2021.
  14. ^ Perry, Simon (19 February 2017). "See the Dress Princess Diana Wore for Her Last Public Appearance in America". People. Archived from the original on 2 April 2017. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
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  16. ^ a b c Holt, Bethan (13 October 2016). "The modern way to dress like Princess Diana". The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 24 April 2017. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  17. ^ a b c d Holmes, Elizabeth. "Why Princess Diana's Fashion Will Never Go Out of Style". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 25 August 2021.
  18. ^ a b c d Elbaum, Rachel (30 August 2012). "Forever fashionable: Princess Diana's style legacy lives on". NBC News. Archived from the original on 2 December 2017. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  19. ^ Crimmens, Tamsin (17 November 2016). "Princess Diana's Iconic Fashion Moments". Elle UK. Archived from the original on 3 July 2017. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  20. ^ Newbold, Alice (6 July 2021). "Gucci Has Reinvented One of Princess Diana's Favorite Handbags". Vogue. Retrieved 7 July 2021.
  21. ^ Bongrand, Caroline; Müller, Florence (April 2011), "Lady Dior", in Éditions de La Martinière (ed.), Inspiration Dior (in French), Irina Antonova (preface), Paris, pp. 220–227, ISBN 978-2732446233, Inspi2011{{citation}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  22. ^ Adams, Rebecca (1 July 2013). "Princess Diana's Black Dress Was The Best 'Revenge' After Separation". The Huffington Post. Archived from the original on 22 February 2017. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  23. ^ Jackson Gee, Tabi (23 May 2016). "What was the secret behind Bella Hadid's sensational Cannes dress?". The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 20 February 2017. Retrieved 19 February 2017.
  24. ^ "Best Cannes Film Festival dresses of all time". Marie Claire. 11 May 2016. Archived from the original on 20 February 2017. Retrieved 19 February 2017.
  25. ^ "See Over 50 Years of Glamour on the Cannes Red Carpet". Elle magazine. Archived from the original on 20 February 2017. Retrieved 19 February 2017.
  26. ^ Chung, Madelyn (12 May 2016). "The Most Iconic Cannes Film Festival Dresses Of All-Time". The Huffington Post. Archived from the original on 20 February 2017. Retrieved 19 February 2017.
  27. ^ Durand, Carolyn; Hasan, Lama (23 February 2017). "Princess Diana's fashion style on display at Kensington Palace". ABC News. Archived from the original on 3 April 2017. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  28. ^ "Iconic Princess Diana dresses fetch $1.2M at auction". CBS News. Retrieved 25 August 2021.
  29. ^ Bumiller, Elisabeth. "Diana Cleans Out Her Closet, And Charities Just Clean Up". New York Times. Retrieved 25 August 2021.
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  32. ^ a b "Will Kate kick off a war of the Welles?". The Telegraph. 17 June 2015. Archived from the original on 2 April 2016.
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  34. ^ "These were the boots that shaped the world". The Telegraph. 17 June 2015. Archived from the original on 17 November 2015.
  35. ^ Katz, Gregory (22 February 2017). "Dresses that tell a story: Princess Diana fashion exhibit to open at Kensington Palace". Chicago Tribune. Archived from the original on 3 April 2017. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  36. ^ "The Princess Diana looks that could be from today". The Telegraph. 25 February 2017. Archived from the original on 12 March 2017. Retrieved 10 March 2017.
  37. ^ a b c d Jordan, Laura Antonia. "Princess Diana Is (Still) The Ultimate Fashion Influencer – And These Looks Prove It". Grazia. Retrieved 14 February 2022.
  38. ^ a b Cochrane, Lauren (11 October 2016). "Asos launch Princess Diana-themed collection". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 31 January 2017. Retrieved 31 January 2017.
  39. ^ "30 times the Duchess of Cambridge dressed like Princess Diana". The Telegraph. 17 January 2020. Retrieved 9 December 2020.
  40. ^ Holt, Bethan (28 February 2017). "How The Duchess of Cambridge has developed a 'caring wardrobe' just like Diana's". The Telegraph. Retrieved 9 December 2020.
  41. ^ Bailey, Alyssa (3 April 2019). "Every Time Meghan Markle Dressed Like Princess Diana". Elle. Retrieved 15 February 2021.
  42. ^ "John Boyd, milliner who helped make Princess Diana a fashion icon, dies at 92". The Washington Post. 6 March 2018.
  43. ^ "Discreet hatmaker who sparked a craze for British millinery after he designed Princess Diana's pink, ostrich-feathered going-away hat". The Times. 7 March 2018.
  44. ^ "The International Hall of Fame: Women". Vanity Fair. 3 August 2009. Archived from the original on 13 July 2016. Retrieved 31 January 2017.
  45. ^ Maher, Lucy (3 April 2004). "All-Time Most Beautiful Women". People. Archived from the original on 28 April 2016. Retrieved 23 April 2016.
  46. ^ Lee Adams, William (2 April 2012). "All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons: Princess Diana". Time. Archived from the original on 28 November 2016. Retrieved 1 February 2017.
  47. ^ Bennett, Catherine (25 February 2017). "Diana shook up the royals but they have their poise back now". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 2 April 2017. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  48. ^ a b Holt, Bethan (29 September 2017). "Naomi Campbell stars in Off-White's tribute to Princess Diana's style". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 30 January 2018.
  49. ^ a b Okwodu, Janelle (28 September 2017). "How Fashion Queen Naomi Campbell Paid Tribute to Princess Diana at Off-White". Vogue. Archived from the original on 29 September 2017. Retrieved 30 January 2018.
  50. ^ Verner, Amy (28 September 2017). "Spring 2018 Ready-To-Wear: Off-White". Vogue. Archived from the original on 25 January 2018. Retrieved 30 January 2018.
  51. ^ Dobson, Jill (9 September 2019). "Tory Burch celebrates Princess Diana with fashion week show". Associated Press. Retrieved 21 July 2021.
  52. ^ Lang, Cady. "What Princess Diana's Fashion in Spencer Tells Us About the Royal Rebel". TIME. Retrieved 14 February 2022.
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