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French wine

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French wine and French gastronomy are often enjoyed together.
Vineyards in Vosne-Romanée in Burgundy, a village that is the source of some of France's most expensive and sought-after wines.
Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Bordeaux corresponds well to the traditional image of a prestigious French château, but in reality, French wineries come in all sizes and shapes.

French wine is produced in several regions throughout France, on over 800,000 hectares (over 2 million acres) of vineyards, and in a typical year between 50 and 60 million hectolitres of wine is produced, or some 7 to 8 billion bottles.[1] France thus has the world's second-largest total vineyard surface (behind Spain) and competes with Italy for the position of having the world's largest wine production. The earliest history of French wine goes back to the 6th century BC, and many of France's regions count their wine-making history to Roman times.

Over the last several hundred years, France has been the most influential country in the wine world: France is the source of more well-known grape varieties (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah) and winemaking practices than any other country; the names of many French wine regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne are well-known throughout the world; and the styles of top French wines have long been the benchmark for winemaking in most wine-producing countries. French wine plays an important role in French identity and pride. The combination of French wine and the equally influential French gastronomy has been an important one. Over the last decades, however, international competition in the wine industry has become more fierce, and France has been challenged both by winemakers of the New World and by traditional wine-producing countries in southern Europe, while domestic consumption of wine has decreased. Since the French wine industry is heterogeneous and ranges from production of very cheap table wine to expensive First Growths and similar "luxury" wines, these changes have hit some very hard and others not at all. While some regions are plagued with constant overproduction of low-quality wines that can not find buyers, and many smaller growers have an increasingly difficult time making a living, some top producers are more profitable than ever.

Two central concepts to high-quality French wines are the notion of terroir and the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system. "Terroir wines" reflect their place of origin, which are specified on labels of French wine, usually in terms of the wine's appellation. Appellation rules closely define which grape varieties and winemaking practices are allowed in each of France's several hundred geographically defined appellations. These rules must be followed by all producers who wish to use an AOC designation for their wines.

History

French wine originated in the 6th century BC, with the colonization of Southern Gaul by Greek settlers. Viticulture soon flourished with the founding of the Greek colony of Marseille.[2] The Roman Empire licensed regions in the south to produce wines. St. Martin of Tours (316-397) was actively engaged in both spreading Christianity and planting vineyards.[3] During the Middle Ages, monks maintained vineyards and, more importantly, conserved wine-making knowledge and skills during that often turbulent period. Monasteries had the resources, security, and motivation to produce a steady supply of wine both for celebrating mass and generating income.[4] During this time, the best vineyards were owned by the monasteries and their wine was considered to be superior.[5] Over time the nobility developed extensive vineyards. However, the French Revolution led to the confiscation of many of the vineyards owned by the Church and others.[6]

Although Bordeaux exported some wine, until about 1850 most wine produced in France was consumed locally. The spread of railroads and the improvement of roads reduced the cost of transportation and dramatically increased exports. [7]

Quality levels and appellation system

In 1935 numerous laws were passed to control the quality of French wine. They established the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée system, which is governed by a powerful oversight board (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine - INAO). Consequently, France has one of the oldest systems for protected designation of origin for wine in the world, and strict laws concerning winemaking and production. Many other European systems are modeled after it. The word "appellation" has been put to use by other countries, sometimes in a much looser meaning. As European Union wine laws have been modeled after those of the French, this trend is likely to continue with further EU expansion.

French law divides wine into four categories, two falling under the European Union's Table Wine category and two falling under the EU's Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR) designation. The categories and their shares of the total French production for the 2005 vintage, excluding wine destined for Cognac, Armagnac and other brandies, were:[8]

Table wine:

  • Vin de Table (11.7%) - Carries with it only the producer and the designation that it is from France.
  • Vin de Pays (33.9%) - Carries with it a specific region within France (for example Vin de Pays d'Oc from Languedoc-Roussillon or Vin de Pays de Côtes de Gascogne from Gascony), and subject to less restrictive regulations than AOC wines. For instance, it allows producers to distinguish wines that are made using grape varieties or procedures other than those required by the AOC rules, without having to use the simple and commercially non-viable table wine classification. In order to maintain a distinction from Vin de Table, the producers have to submit the wine for analysis and tasting, and the wines have to be made from certain varieties or blends.


QWPSR:

The total French production for the 2005 vintage was 43.9 million hl (plus an additional 9.4 million hl destined for various brandies), of which 28.3% was white and 71.7% was red or rosé.[8] The proportion of white wine is slightly higher for the higher categories, with 34.3% of the AOC wine being white.

In years with less favourable vintage conditions than 2005, the proportion of AOC wine tends to be a little lower. The proportion of Vin de table has decreased considerably over the last decades, while the proportion of AOC has increased somewhat and Vin de Pays has increased considerably.

In 2005 there were 472 different wine AOCs in France.[9]

Wine styles and grape varieties

All common styles of wine - red, rosé, white (dry, semi-sweet and sweet), sparkling and fortified - are produced in France. In most of these styles, the French production ranges from cheap and simple versions to some of the world's most famous and expensive examples. The possible exception is French fortified wines, which tend to be relatively unknown outside France.

Numerous grape varieties are cultivated in France, including both internationally well-known and obscure local varieties. In fact, most of the so-called "international varieties" are of French origin, or became known and spread because of their cultivation in France. Since French appellation rules generally restrict wines from each region, district or appellation to a small number of allowed grape varieties, there are in principle no varieties that are commonly planted throughout all of France.

Most varieties of grape are associated with a certain region, such as Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and Syrah in Rhône, although there are some varieties that are found in two or more regions, such as Chardonnay in Bourgogne (including Chablis) and Champagne, and Sauvignon Blanc in Loire and Bordeaux. As an example of the rules, although climatic conditions would appear to be favorable, no Cabernet Sauvignon wines are produced in Rhône, Riesling wines in Loire, or Chardonnay wines in Bordeaux. (If such wines were produced, they would have to be declassified to Vin de Pays or French table wine. They would not be allowed to display any appellation name or even region of origin.)

Traditionally, many French wines have been blended from several grape varieties. Varietal white wines have been, and are still, more common than varietal red wines.

In many respects, French wines have more of a regional than a national identity, as evidenced by different grape varieties, production methods and different classification systems in the various regions. Quality levels and prices varies enormously, and some wines are made for immediate consumption while other are meant for long-time cellaring. If there is one thing that most French wines have in common, it is that most styles have developed as wines meant to accompany food, be it a quick baguette, a simple bistro meal, or a full-fledged multi-course menu. Seldom have the wines been developed or styled as "bar wines" for drinking on their own, or to impress in tastings when young.

Labelling practices

Vigneron independent logo
Vigneron independent logo
File:HAUTBAT.JPG
A French wine label, from a Bordeaux château. From the top down it says:[10]
1. that the producer was classified in the 1855 classification
2. the name of the château (Haut Batailley)
3. the appellation of the wine (Pauillac)
4. the vintage
5. another mentioning of the appellation including the crucial words "appellation contrôlée"
6. its origin of production (France - Bordeaux)
7. the alcohol content
8. the producer's name
9. the volume of content
10. that the wine was estate bottled (mis en bouteille au chateau)

Many french wine labels contain a wealth of information for the knowlegable reader (see example to the right). With the exception of wines from the Alsace region and their Germanic influence, France had no tradition of varietal labelling of wines. Varietal labelling was not allowed under appellation rules. Since New World wines made the varietal names "household names" on the export market, in the late 20th century, more French wineries started to use varietal labelling. In general, varietal labelling is most common for the Vin de Pays category. Some AOC wines in "simpler" categories are also allowed to display varietal names, but these wines are rather few. For most AOC wines, if varietal names are found, it will be in small print on a back label.

In the shown example, readers can, depending on their level of knowledge of French wine, analyze what sort of wine they're holding. The 1855 classification indicates (but doesn't gurantee) a high grade of quality. Then comes the producer's name in large letters. If readers don't recognize the name, the label informs them that it's from the appellation "Pauillac". If readers have no knowledge of French appellations, they can go on to read that it's a Bordeaux, and--if that's meaningless--finaly, that the wien was produced in France.

An important bit of information is the place of bottling, as this can indicate on what "level" the wine is produced--that is, was it produced by the million bottles, or was it from some smaller producer who was, presumably, more attentive to the entire process of making the wine:

  • "Mis en bouteille au..." chateau, domaine, or propriété indicate the wine was actually made at the same location as it was grown. "Au chateau" means that it was bottled at the chateau printed on the wine's label, using grapes from vineyards around the chateau itself. "Au domaine" means that it was bottled "at the field," while "à la propriété" means bottled "at the estate." "Mis en bouteille dans nos caves" or "mis en bouteille dans nos chais" means that it was probably bottled in a different place than it was grown, using grapes traded and bought on the open market.
  • "Vigneron indépendant" is a special mark of independent wine-makers, to distinguish them from larger corporate winemaking operations and symbolize a return to the basics of the craft of wine-making. Bottles from independent makers carry a special logo usually printed on the foil cap covering the cork.

If varietal names are displayed, common EU rules apply:

  • If a single varietal name is used, the wine must be made from a minimum of 85% of this variety.
  • If two or more varietal names are used, only the displayed varieties are allowed.
  • If two or more varietal names are used, they must generally appear in decreasing order.

Terroir

Main article: Terroir
A Cahors chateau and vineyard

Terroir refers to the unique combination of natural factors associated with any particular vineyard. These factors include such things as soil, underlying rock, altitude, slope of hill or terrain, orientation toward the sun, and microclimate (typical rain, winds, humidity, temperature variations, etc.). Even in the same area, no two vineyards have exactly the same terroir, thus being the base of the Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) system that has been model for appellation and wine laws across the globe. In other words: when the same vareital is planted in different regions, it can produce wines that are significantly different from each other.[11] The concept of terroir manifests itself most extremely in the Burgundy region. The amount of influence and the scope that falls under the description of terroir has been a controversial topic in the wine industry.[12]

Wine regions of France

Map of the principal wine regions in France

Although there are hundreds of appellations in France, the main wine producing regions are:

Alsace

Alsace is a primarily white-wine region in eastern France. It is situated on river Rhine and border with Germany, a country with which it shares many grape varieties as well as a long tradition of varietal labelling.

Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a large region on the Atlantic coast, which has a long history of exporting its wines oversea. This is primarily a red-wine region, the wine style of which is one of the world's most imitated. The better Bordeaux wines are powerful, tannic and very long-lived. They include some of the most collected and traded fine wines of the world. Bordeaux also makes dry and sweet white wines, including some of the world's most famous sweet wines, from the Sauternes appellation.

Burgundy

Burgundy or Bourgogne in eastern France is a region where red and white wines are equally important. Probably more terroir-conscious than any other region, Burgundy is divided into the largest number of appellations of any French region. Better Burgundies, both red and white, are often described as elegant wines. The top wines from Burgundy's heartland in Côte d'Or command some of the highest prices of any wines in the world. Two parts of Burgundy that are sometimes considered as separate regions are:

    • Beaujolais in the south, close to the Rhône Valley region, where mostly red wines are made, in a fruity style that is usually consumed young, and
    • Chablis, halfway between Côte d'Or and Paris, where white wines are produced on chalky soil giving a more crisp and steely style than the rest of Burgundy.

Champagne

Champagne, situated in eastern France, close to Belgium and Luxembourg, is the coldest of France's major wine regions and home to the world's most famous sparkling wine.

Corsica

Corsica, an island in the Mediterranean, the wines of which are primarily consumed on the island itself.

Jura

Jura, a small region in the mountains close to Switzerland where some unique wine styles are produced.

Languedoc-Roussillon

Languedoc-Roussillon, by far the largest region in terms of vineyard surface, and the region in which much of France's cheap bulk wines have been produced. While still the source of much of France's and Europe's overproduction, the so-called "wine lake", Languedoc-Roussillon is also the home of some of France's most innovative producers. They try to combine traditional French wine and international styles and do not hesitate to take lessons from the New World. Much Languedoc-Roussillon wine is sold as Vin de Pays d'Oc.

Loire

Loire valley is a primarily white-wine region that stretches over a long distance along the Loire River in central and western France, and where grape varieties and wine styles vary along the river. Four subregions are situated along the river:

Provence

Provence, in the southeast and close to the Mediterranean. It is famous for rosé wines but also produces much red wine.

Rhône

Rhone Valley, primarily a red-wine region in southeastern France, along the Rhône River. The styles and varietal composition of northern and southern Rhône differ, but both parts compete with Bordeaux as traditional producers of powerful red wines.

Savoy

Savoy or Savoie, primarily a white-wine region in the Alps close to Switzerland, where many grapes unique to this region are cultivated.

South West France

South West France or Sud-Ouest, a somewhat heterogeneous collection of wine areas inland or south of Bordeaux. Some areas produce primarily red wines in a style reminiscent of red Bordeaux, while other produce dry or sweet white wines. Areas within Sud-Ouest include among other:

There are also several smaller production areas situated outside these major regions. Many of those are VDQS wines, and some, particularly those in more northern locations, are remnants of production areas that were once larger.

France has traditionally been the largest consumer of its own wines. However, wine consumption has been dropping in France for 40 years. During the decade of the 1990s, per capita consumption dropped by nearly 20 percent. Therefore, French wine producers must rely increasingly on foreign markets. However, consumption has also been dropping in other potential markets such as Italy, Spain and Portugal.

The result has been a continuing wine glut, often called the wine lake. This has led to the distillation of wine into industrial alcohol as well as a government program to pay farmers to pull up their grape vines through vine pull schemes. A large part of this glut is caused by the re-emergence of Languedoc wine.

Immune from these problems has been the market for Champagne as well as the market for the expensive ranked or classified wines. However, these constitute only about five percent of French production.

French regulations in 1979 created simple rules for the then-new category of Vin de pays. The Languedoc-Roussillon region has taken advantage of its ability to market varietal wines.

Organizations

L'Office national interprofessionnel des vins, abbreviated ONIVINS, is a French association of vintners.

References

  1. ^ OIV - Situation du secteur vitivinicole mondial en 2004
  2. ^ Medieval France: an encyclopedia, William Westcott Kibler, Routledge Taylor & Francis Group, p.964
  3. ^ Patrick, Charles H. Alcohol, Culture, and Society. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1952, pp. 26-27
  4. ^ Babor, Thomas. Alcohol: Customs and Rituals. New York: Chelsea House, 1986, p. 11
  5. ^ Patrick, Charles H. Alcohol, Culture, and Society. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1952, p. 27
  6. ^ Seward, Desmond. Monks and Wine. London: Mitchell Beazley, Publishers, 1979
  7. ^ Kladstrup, Donald and Kladstrup, Petie. Wine and War: The French, the Nazis, and the Battle for France's Greatest Treasure. NY: Broadway Books, 2001
  8. ^ a b INAO statistics of vineyard surfaces and production volumes for the 2005-2006 campaign, accessed on May 26, 2008
  9. ^ INAO: overview of AOC wine production in 2005, accessed on May 26, 2008
  10. ^ André Dominé (ed) "Wein" p. 154 Tandem Verlag GmbH, Königswinter 2004 ISBN 3833112085
  11. ^ André Dominé (ed) "Wein" p. 88-89 Tandem Verlag GmbH, Königswinter 2004 ISBN 3833112085
  12. ^ J. Robinson (ed) "The Oxford Companion to Wine" Third Edition p. 693-695 Oxford University Press 2006 ISBN 0198609906

See also


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