2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

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2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Entrance of the Esforta Arena in Hachioji
VenueEsforta Arena in Hachioji
LocationJapan Hachioji, Japan
Date11 – 21 August 2019
Competitors253 athletes from 39 nations
Websitehttps://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/
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The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately this year from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

Main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

2020 Summer Olympic qualification
Men Women

 Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
 Jakob Schubert (AUT)
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
 Mickael Mawem (FRA)
 Alexander Megos (GER)
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
 Sean McColl (CAN)
 TBD (JPN)*

 Janja Garnbret (SLO)
 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
 Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
 Petra Klingler (SUI)
 Brooke Raboutou (USA)
 Jessica Pilz (AUT)
 TBD (JPN)*

  •  Japan have qualified two quota places in each event, with the climbers still to be named.

Bouldering

Women

Rank Name Score[6]
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3T3z 8 8
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 2T2z 4 2
3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 2T2z 6 6
4 Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova 1T2z 3 4
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 1T2z 5 6
6 Japan Nanako Kura 0T0z 0 1

Men

Rank Name Score[7]
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 2T4z 12 20
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 0T3z 0 10
3 Germany Yannick Flohé 0T3z 0 13
4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 0T3z 0 18
5 Japan Keita Dohi 0T2z 0 9
6 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 0T0z 0 0

Lead

Women

Rank Name Score[8]
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 43+
2 Slovenia Mia Krampl 39+
3 Japan Ai Mori 38+
4 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 38+
5 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 38+
6 Austria Jessica Pilz 35+
7 Slovenia Vita Lukan 30+
8 France Julia Chanourdie 30+

Men

Rank Name Score[9]
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 34+
2 Germany Alex Megos 33+
3 Austria Jakob Schubert 33+
4 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 30
5 Canada Sean McColl 30
6 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 29+
7 Japan Kai Harada 28+
8 Sweden Hannes Puman 27+

Speed

Women

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[10]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.472
 MingWei Ni (CHN) 7.819
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.008
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.114
 Elena Remizova (RUS) fall
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 YiLing Song (CHN) fall
 Yulia Kaplina (RUS) 8.465
 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.789
 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.605
 YiLing Song (CHN) 7.192
 YiLing Song (CHN) 7.436
 Anna Brożek (POL) 7.945
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.129
 Di Niu (CHN) 8.363
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.454
 Andrea Rojas (ECU) 8.202
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.998
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.814
 Natalia Kałucka (POL) 7.895
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.871
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.525
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.535
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 8.409
 Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) 10.504
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.663
 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 10.188
 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 7.747
 PeiYang Tian (CHN) 8.080

Men

Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[11]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
 Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) 6.150
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.944
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.808
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 5.863
 Sergey Rukin (RUS) fall
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 6.232
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) fall
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 5.986
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 6.281
 John Brosler (USA) 9.383
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 7.248
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.219
 Long Cao (CHN) 6.441
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.136
 Jan Kriz (CZE) fall
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 6.871
 Vladislav Deulin (RUS) 5.612
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) 5.580
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) FS
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
 Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) fall
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 5.908
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) FS
 Bassa Mawem (FRA) 7.470
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.013
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.613
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 7.500
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.940
 ZhiYong Ou (CHN) 6.072

WC - Wildcard
FS - False start

Combined

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[12]

Women

[13]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 12.00 6 13.399 2 1T2z 1 2 1 Top
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 21.00 7 10.082 1 2T2z 3 3 3 40+
3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 42.00 2 9.225 3 1T2z 2 3 7 20
4 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 64.00 1 7.750 8 0T0z 0 0 8 10
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 80.00 4 12.356 4 1T2z 3 4 5 23+
6 Japan Ai Mori 80.00 8 12.860 5 1T2z 3 7 2 Top
7 Japan Futaba Ito 120.00 5 8.655 6 0T2z 0 2 4 27
8 Switzerland Petra Klingler 126.00 3 8.901 7 0T2z 0 3 6 23+

Men

[14]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4.00 2 fall 1 3T3z 4 3 2 30
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 35.00 7 7.208 5 0T3z 0 6 1 Top
3 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 40.00 1 5.915 8 0T1z 0 2 5 22
4 Japan Kai Harada 54.00 3 6.348 6 0T2z 0 6 3 30
5 Japan Meichi Narasaki 60.00 5 6.689 2 1T3z 1 4 6 21
6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 72.00 6 9.438 3 1T3z 2 6 4 29+
7 France Mickael Mawem 112.00 4 6.716 4 1T2z 3 4 7 20
8 Germany Alexander Megos 448.00 8 7.570 7 0T1z 0 1 8 0

See also

References

  1. ^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  2. ^ "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  3. ^ a b "GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  4. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  5. ^ "Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games". The Japan Times. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  11. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  12. ^ "IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.
  13. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.

External links

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