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Alexander Huber

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Alexander Huber
Huber in 2009
Personal information
Born (1968-12-30) 30 December 1968 (age 55)
Trostberg, Bavaria, West Germany
EducationLudwig Maximilian University of Munich (Physics)
Occupation(s)Theoretical physicist, professional rock climber, and mountain guide
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight62 kg (137 lb) (sport climbing)
SpouseKristina Huber
RelativeThomas Huber (brother)
Websitewww.huberbuam.de
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First to redpoint at grade 9a+ (5.15a), second to redpoint at 9a (5.14d)
  • First to redpoint a big wall at grade 8a (5.13b), and at grade 8c (5.14b)
  • First to free solo 8b+ (5.14a), second to free solo 8b (5.13d)
  • First to free solo a big wall at grade 7a+ (5.12a)
  • First individual free ascent of the Salathé Wall (1995)
  • First free solo of the Brandler-Hasse Direttissima (2002)
First ascents
Updated on 17 July 2023

Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968) is a German rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of rock climbing. Huber came to prominence in the early 1990s as the world's strongest sport climber after the passing of Wolfgang Güllich. He is the second-ever person to redpoint a 9a (5.14d) graded route by ascending Om in 1992, and has come to be known as the first-ever person to redpoint a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route from his 1996 ascent of Open Air [de].

For a decade following the mid-1990s, Huber, often partnered with his brother Thomas, also came to be regarded as the strongest big wall free climber of his generation, with groundbreaking first ascents in Yosemite (El Nino in 1998, and Zodiac in 2003), the Karakoram (Latok II in 1997, and Eternal Flame in 2009), and in other notable big wall locations around the world. Huber’s 1995 ascent of the Salathé Wall in Yosemite was the first-ever redpoint of an 8a (5.13b) graded big wall in history. His 2001 ascent of Bellavista [it] in the Dolomites was the first-ever redpoint of an 8c (5.14b) graded big wall in history.

Huber is also known as one of the greatest free solo climbers for both big wall and sport climbing routes. In 2002, he free soloed the first-ever grade 7a+ (5.12a) big wall in history, the 580-metre Brandler-Hasse Direttissima in the Dolomites. In 2003, he free soloed the second-ever grade 8b (5.13d) sport climbing route in history with Der Opportunist in Austria, and in 2004, he became the first-ever person in history to free solo an 8b+ (5.14a) graded sport route with Kommunist, also in Austria.

Early life and education

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Huber was born in Trostberg in Bavaria, the second of three children. His father Thomas, a climber who had ascended the north face of Les Droites, and his mother Maria, took the children mountaineering from a young age. By 1986, aged 18, Huber and his brother Thomas climb Utopia (VIII+, 7a+) on the Wartsteinwand, and in 1988, they ascend Vom Winde Verweht (X−, 8a+) on Scharnstein in the Berchtesgaden Alps.[1]

By 1992, Huber trained as a fully qualified UIAGM mountain guide. In 1997, Huber graduated with a Master's in Physics and received a post-graduate position as an assistant at the Institute for Theoretical Meteorology in the Ludwig Maximilian University of Munich. In 1998, Huber decided to become a full-time professional climber, one year after Thomas; the pair are known as the "Huberbuam" (Huberboys).[1]

Climbing career

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Sport climbing

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Huber came to prominence as a sport climber in the early 1990s, at a time when Wolfgang Gullich was considered the world's strongest sport climber. Huber attributes the initial conservative 8c+ (5.14c) grading of Gullich's famous 1991 route, Action Directe, which persisted for many years until it was eventually shown to be a "hard 9a", for suppressing the grades of Huber's own routes such as Om, Weisse Rose, and La Rambla.[2] In 2008, when Adam Ondra made the first repeat of Huber's 1996 route Open Air [de] and graded it 9a+ (5.15a), that the climbing media began to realize that Huber was probably the first-ever person to climb at that grade, several years before Chris Sharma's groundbreaking ascent of Realization in 2001.[3][4] Huber felt that Open Air was his limit, and he decided to focus on big wall climbing.[2][5]

Big wall climbing

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From the mid-1990s onwards, Huber (often partnered with Thomas), began to focus almost exclusively on big wall climbing in which he would become one of the most important big wall free climbers in history.[6][7] In 1995, Huber became the first person to lead all 36-pitches of the Salathé Wall, and thus became the first-ever person to redpoint a big wall route at the grade of 8a (5.13b).[8][9] Over the following decade, Huber made the first free ascent (or partial free ascent with minor aid), some of the most iconic big wall routes in Yosemite, including El Nino (5.13c A0, 1998), Golden Gate (5.13a, 2000), El Corazon (5.13b, 2001), and Zodiac (5.13d, 2003).[6] Huber's most famous Yosemite route was his easiest, his 1998 ascent of Freerider (5.12d/5.13a), a route which is only second in popularity to The Nose.[8][9] The Huber brothers set several Yosemite speed records including a speed record for The Nose of 2:45.45, in 2007.[8]

In 2001, Huber made the first free ascent of Bellavista [it] through the huge roofs of the north face of Cima Ovest in the Dolomites (the birthplace of big wall climbing), which was the world's first-ever big wall route at the grade 8c (5.14b).[10] In 2005, Huber freed the famous Voie Petit [it], the hardest big wall route in the French Alps at the time at 8b (5.13d),[11] and in 2007, he returned to the Cima Ovest to free the route Pan Aroma [it], also at 8c (5.14b).[12][13] During this period, Huber also made important big wall ascents in the Karakoram (Tsering Mosong on Latok II, 1997),[14] in Patagonia (Golden Eagle in 2006 and El Bastardo in 2008, on Fitz Roy),[15][16][17] in Antarctica (Sound of Silence on Ulvetanna Peak, 2008),[18][19] and on Baffin Island (Bavarian Direct on Mount Asgard, 2012).[20] In 2009, Huber and his brother Thomas freed the famous high-altitude big wall route, Eternal Flame (5.13a), on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.[21][22]

Free solo climbing

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Huber has made some of the most important free solo climbing ascents in history.[23][24] In 2002, Huber free soloed at 17-pitches of the 580-metre Brandler-Hasse Direttissima (5.12a) on the Cima Grande in the Dolomites, which was the first-ever free solo of a 7a+ (5.12a) graded big wall route in history.[24][25] In 2003, he free soloed the sport climbing route, Der Opportunist in Austria, which was only the second-ever free solo of an 8b (5.13d) graded route in history.[26][23][27] In 2004, Huber free soloed Kommunist in Austria, which was the first-ever free solo of an 8b+ (5.14a) graded route in history;[26][23][24] Huber called this solo a "search for my limits".[24][27] Huber said that after his 2008 free solo of the multi-pitch 280-metre route Locker Vom Hocker 7a+ (5.12a), he largely stopped doing free solo climbs at very extreme grades saying: "You mustn't forget that free soloing is very, very risky indeed. Even for the best climbers who seemingly have everything under control".[24][8]

Notable climbs

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Sport climbing

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Huber was considered one of the world's best sport climbers.[2]

Big wall climbing

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For a period in the late 1990s, Huber dominated big wall free climbing in Yosemite Valley, as well as in the Alps:[8]

  • 1995 – Salathé Wall (5.13b, VI, 36-pitches), El Capitan, Yosemite, first-ever redpoint at the grade (Skinner and Piana co-led the FFA in 1988).[8][9][28]
  • 1998 – El Nino (5.13c, VI, A0, 30-pitches), El Capitan, first (almost free) ascent bar a down-abseil on pitch-13 (A0); was the third route to be freed on El Capitan and the first on the North America Wall.[9] In 2019, Sonnie Trotter avoided the down-abseil to create the Pineapple Express.[29][30]
  • 1998 – Freerider (5.12d/5,13a, VI, 30-pitches), El Capitan, first free ascent, and in 15:25 was the first El Capitan route inside 24 hrs. Huber discovered it on the Salathe; it became a classic that Huber called the "Astroman of the new millennium"; free soloed by Alex Honnold 2017.[8]
  • 2000 – Golden Gate (5.13a, VI, 41-pitches), El Capitan, first free ascent; a combination of the Salathé Wall and Heart Route.[31][32]
  • 2001 – Bellavista [it] 8c (5.14b) (10-pitches, 500-metres), on the Cima Ovest, Dolomites, Italy, first free ascent through the huge roof; first-ever big wall route at 8c;[10] Huber later discovered subsequent climbers had "treated" some holds to soften grade.[33]
  • 2001 – El Corazon (5.13b, 35-pitches), El Capitan, first free ascent; combination of Salathé Wall, Albatross, Son of Heart and Heart Route.[34]
  • 2003 – Free Zodiac (5.13d, VI, 16-pitches), El Capitan, first free ascent of the overhanging 1972 aid route;[35] with the famous "Nipple pitch".[36]
  • 2004 – Zodiac (5.8, A2+, 16-pitches), El Capitan, speed record on the 1972 aid climbing version of Zodiac in 1:51:34 (fastest route on El Capitan).[37]
  • 2005 – Voie Petit [it] 8b (5.13d) (16-pitches, 450-metres), on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, first free ascent of famous 1997 Arnaud Petit [fr] route.[11]
  • 2007 – Pan Aroma [it] 8c (5.14b) (9-pitches, 450-metres), the Cima Ovest, first free ascent; starts per Bellavista but breaches Bauer's [de] roof.[12][13]
  • 2007 – The Nose (5.9, A1), El Capitan, Yosemite, speed record with Thomas Huber on the aid climbing version of The Nose in 2:45:45.[38]
  • 2008 – Sansara (6-pitch, 200-metres, east face Grubhorn), and Feuertaufe (7-pitches, 250-metres, south face Sonnwand), FFAs at 8b+ (5.14a).[39][40]
  • 2012 – Nirwana 8c+ (5.14c) (200-metres), Sonnwendwand, Austria, first free ascent of one of the hardest multi-pitch rock climbs in the world.[41][42]

High-altitude climbing

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Alexander and Thomas on the summit of Mount Asgard, 2012

Huber took part in several expeditions to famous big wall climbing locations including the high-altitude walls of Trango Tower, the stormy towers of Patagonia, and the extreme-cold of Ulvetanna in Antarctica; climbing usually with his brother Thomas, but also often part of a larger climbing team in an alpine style approach:[7]

Free solo rock climbing

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Huber was one of the few climbers to free solo extreme grades in both single-pitch and big wall routes.[23][24]

Bibliography

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  • Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas (2001). The Wall: A New Dimension in Climbing (English ed.). David & Charles. ISBN 978-0715311783.
  • Huber, Alexander; Zak, Heinz (2002). Yosemite: Half a century of dynamic rock climbing (1st ed.). Bergverlag Rother. ISBN 978-3-7633-7511-0.[44]
  • Huber, Alexander; Schwenkmeier, Willi (2004). Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks) (1st ed.). Bergverlag Rother. ISBN 978-3-7633-7513-4.
  • Huber, Alexander (2009). Free Solo (1st ed.). Bergverlag Rother. ISBN 978-3-8354-0594-3.
  • Huber, Alexander (2010). The Mountain Within (Der Berg in mir) (English ed.). Skyhorse Publishing. ISBN 978-1-60239-988-4.[45]
  • Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas (2011). Eiszeit (Ice Age) (1st ed.). Frederking & Thaler. ISBN 978-3-89405-775-6.
  • Huber, Alexander; Mailänder, Nicholas (2011). Der Weg nach draußen (The Way Out) (1st ed.). Berg & Tal. ISBN 978-3-939499-11-4.
  • Huber, Alexander (2013). Die Angst, dein bester Freund (The Fear, your best friend) (1st ed.). Ecowin Verlag. ISBN 978-3-7110-5090-8.

Filmography

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See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b Huber, Alexander (2010). The Mountain Within (Der Berg in mir) (English ed.). Skyhorse Publishing. ISBN 978-1-60239-988-4.
  2. ^ a b c d e f Hobley, Nicholas (30 October 2008). "Alexander Huber interview". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  3. ^ a b c d e Hobley, Nicholas (19 June 2009). "Alexander Huber, Om and Adam Ondra". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  4. ^ a b McDonald, Dougald (15 June 2012). "Open Air: Groundbreaking 5.15 Gets Second Ascent". Outside. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
  5. ^ ""I had a lot of sun": Alexander Huber turns 50!". Alpin. January 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  6. ^ a b Geldard, Jack (14 June 2009). "Alex Huber". UKClimbing. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  7. ^ a b c Hobley, Nicholas (13 October 2009). "Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  8. ^ a b c d e f g h "El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary". PlanetMountain. 5 October 2018. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  9. ^ a b c d Wilson, Ken (27 August 2003). "Yosemite - Land of freedom". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  10. ^ a b "Bellavista, Alexander Huber climbs 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo". PlanetMountain. 23 July 2001. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  11. ^ a b Huber, Alexander (1 December 2005). "Grand Capucin, Voie Petit". Alpinist. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  12. ^ a b "Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites". PlanetMountain. 8 August 2007. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  13. ^ a b McDonald, Dougald (10 August 2007). "Huber Climbs Dolomites Mega-Roof". Climbing. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  14. ^ a b Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas; Anker, Conrad; Gutsch, Toni (1998). "The West Face of Latok II: El Cap on top of Denali". American Alpine Journal. 40 (72). New York: American Alpine Club: 34–42. ISBN 0-930410-78-5. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  15. ^ a b Huber, Alexander (1 September 2006). "Aguja Desmochada". Alpinist. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  16. ^ a b "Golden Eagle, first free ascent in Patagonia". PlanetMountain. 9 March 2011. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  17. ^ a b Lambert, Erik (30 January 2008). "Weather Window Triggers Patagonia Frenzy". Alpinist. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  18. ^ a b c "Antarctic, new routes for Huber, Siegrist and Richl". PlanetMountain. 4 February 2009. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  19. ^ a b c McDonald, Dougald (28 January 2009). "Hubers, Siegrist Pioneer Huge Antarctic Walls". Climbing. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  20. ^ a b Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas (2013). "Mount Asgard, South Tower, Free Bavarian Direct". American Alpine Journal. 55 (87): 180. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  21. ^ a b "Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers". PlanetMountain. 1 October 2009. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  22. ^ a b Lambert, Erik (1 October 2009). "Hubers Redpoint Eternal Flame". Alpinist. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  23. ^ a b c d e f Osius, Alison (4 June 2022). "Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport". Climbing. Retrieved 26 November 2022.
  24. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Editorial (16 July 2008). "Solo, Part IV: Alexander Huber". Alpinist. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  25. ^ a b "This is Still a Gripping Free-Solo Video – Alex Huber on a 20-Pitch 5.12a". Gripped Magazine. 2 November 2021. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  26. ^ a b c d e f g Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  27. ^ a b c d MacDonald, Dougald (7 May 2004). "Huber Solos 5.14". Climbing. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  28. ^ Huber, Alexander (1996). "Freeing the Salathe, the greatest rock climb in the world". American Alpine Journal. 38 (70): 69–70. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  29. ^ Trotter, Sonnie (11 December 2019). "Pineapple Express: Inside the First Ascent of an All-Free El Capitan 5.13". Climbing. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  30. ^ "Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan". PlanetMountain. 7 December 2018. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  31. ^ Huber, Alexander (2001). "El Capitan: Golden Gate". American Alpine Journal. 43 (75): 172.
  32. ^ "Golden Gate, the Huber brothers free climb El Capitan". PlanetMountain. 10 April 2001. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  33. ^ "Huber's Dolomite routes repeated". British Mountaineering Council. 21 July 2010. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  34. ^ "Alexander Huber finds and frees El Corazon on El Capitan". PlanetMountain. 12 November 2001. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  35. ^ "Alexander and Thomas Huber free the Zodiac". PlanetMountain. 16 October 2003. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  36. ^ Franz, Derek (30 November 2016). "Zangerl and Larcher make the third free ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan". Alpinist. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  37. ^ MacDonald, Dougald (15 June 2012). "Zodiac Record". Climbing. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  38. ^ "The Nose speed record by Alexander and Thomas Huber". PlanetMountain. 18 October 2007. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  39. ^ a b Lambert, Erik (2 September 2008). "Alex Huber on Fire: Free Solo and New 5.14s". Alpinist. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  40. ^ a b Nelson, Peter (17 September 2008). "Alex Huber's Magic Summer". Alpinist. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  41. ^ "Alexander Huber, Sonnwand Nirwana above the Loferer Alm in Austria". PlanetMountain. 4 April 2013. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  42. ^ Fernández, Isaac (20 November 2014). "Fabian Buhl: "Nirwana (200 m, 8c+) is one of the biggest multi-pitch challenges of the world"" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  43. ^ Geldard, Jack (14 June 2009). "Alex Huber Interview". UKClimbing. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  44. ^ Davis, Steph (2004). "Yosemite: Half a century of dynamic rock climbing". American Alpine Journal. 46 (78): 460.
  45. ^ Bauer, Luke (12 August 2010). "Book Review: The Mountain Within". Alpinist. Retrieved 16 December 2022.

Further reading

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  • Carrel, François (2017). Alexander und Thomas Huber: zwei Brüder, eine Seilschaft (two brothers, one rope team) (German ed.). Malik Verlag. ISBN 978-3-89029-483-4.
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