Brioni (brand)

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Brioni
Subsidiary
Industry Fashion
Founder Nazareno Fonticoli
Gaetano Savini
Headquarters Rome, Italy
Key people
Fabrizio Malverdi, CEO
Owner Kering
Website www.brioni.com

Brioni is an Italian menswear couture house owned by French holding company Kering. Founded in Rome in 1945,[1] it is known for its made-to-measure men's suits, sartorial ready-to-wear collections and leather goods. Throughout its history, the company has invented concepts such as the men's runway show, the trunk show, and the ready-to-wear Haute Couture. It has been a point of reference for the entertainment, institutional and business worlds. Its Creative Director from July 2012 to February 2016 was British-born Brendan Mullane.[2][3][4] Its creative director from April 2016 to September 2016 was Justin O’Shea.[5][6][7]

History[edit]

A Brioni boutique, at Wynn Las Vegas, featuring red cursive logo of 1986 to 2016

Brioni was established in Rome in 1945 as a men's tailoring company by founders Nazareno Fonticoli, a tailor, and Gaetano Savini, an entrepreneur.[8] They opened their first shop on Via Barberini 79, naming the brand after the formerly Italian Brionian Islands (now part of Croatia); the shop is still at the same address. Brioni quickly started to raise interest from high-profile movie business personalities, heads of state and business leaders.

In 1952, Brioni staged the first men’s fashion show in history, inside the Sala Bianca at Palazzo Pitti in Florence. The clothes introduced new silhouettes, bold colors and innovative fabrics, marking an important chapter for the company. A couple of years later, Brioni invented the trunk show, during which the collections were presented directly in stores, allowing customers to personalize the garments with the Su Misura service (made-to-measure).[9]

In 1959, a production plant was opened in Penne, Abruzzo, birth town of Nazareno Fonticoli. Called Brioni Roman Style, the state-of-the-art factory introduced the concept of Prêt Couture, or ready-to-wear Haute Couture that sealed the international rise of the brand.

In 1985, the company opened a tailoring school in Penne with the aim of transmitting to younger generations the specific Brioni sartorial method.[10]

Awards and honors[edit]

Red cursive logo of 1986 to 2016

In 2007[11] and 2011[12] The Luxury Institute ranked Brioni among the most prestigious men’s fashion luxury goods brands in America.

Recent history[edit]

In 2012, with the acquisition by French group Kering,[13] the company entered a new phase. Under the leadership of Creative Director Brendan Mullane, Brioni designs, develops and manufactures Su Misura garments and sartorial ready-to-wear collections as well as leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrance. Brioni products are distributed globally, encompassing Europe, Asia and America, through directly-owned boutiques and a network of department stores.

On March 23, 2016, luxury conglomerate Kering announced that it had appointed Justin O’Shea, a heavily tattooed Australian and street-style enthusiast with more than 80,000 Instagram followers, as creative director.[14] A self-taught retail expert, O’Shea was formerly the fashion director of the German e-commerce site MyTheresa.[15][16] O’Shea featured the four members of Metallica dressed in Brioni tuxedos in his first ad campaign with the brand;[17][18] the photos were shot by Zackery Michael.[19] The remake of Brioni's logo under O'Shea by friend and frequent collaborator Benny Robinson has been compared to the Fraktur typeface.[20][21] O'Shea showed his first collection for the house on 4 July 2016.[22] In early October 2016 Brioni announced that O'Shea would leave the brand.[23][24] Brioni reported that its Autumn/Winter 2017 collection would be presented to buyers in the Milan showroom from mid-November 2016 but would not have a corresponding runway show.[23]

On 17 March 2017 announced the appointment of Fabrizio Malverdi as CEO,[25][26] a month after Gianluca Flore stepped down from the role.[27][28]

Boutiques[edit]

As of 2015, Brioni had 46 directly-operated retail stores.[29] Brioni has stores in:[30]

Europe
North America
Latin America
East Asia
Central Asia
Middle East

References[edit]

  1. ^ mrporter.com Brioni
  2. ^ kering.com Brioni is strengthening its creative capacity and appoints Brendan Mullane as Creative Director 9 July 2012
  3. ^ Lauren Milligan, vogue.co.uk Brioni's Brit 9 July 2012
  4. ^ Luisa Zargani Brioni Taps Artists for Fall Ad Campaign June 15, 2015
  5. ^ Kate Abnett, Brioni Names Justin O’Shea Creative Director The Business of Fashion March 23, 2016
  6. ^ Leitch, Luke (March 23, 2016). "G’day, O’Shea: Why Brioni’s New Aussie Creative Director Is an Inspired Appointment". Vogue. 
  7. ^ After Just 6 Months, Justin O’Shea Is Out at Brioni, New York Times, 5 October 2016
  8. ^ brioni.com Heritage
  9. ^ telegraph.co.uk Mencyclopaedia: Brioni
  10. ^ Visiting the source: making Brioni suits New York Times, 14 April 2014
  11. ^ Luxury Institute Survey: Wealthy Consumers Rate Top Men's Fashion Brands of 2007 Brioni, Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna May 22, 2007
  12. ^ Alex Carter, Hermes, Brioni and Versace ranked as top luxury brands
  13. ^ Mark Scott, PPR Acquires Italian Suit Maker Brioni November 8, 2011
  14. ^ Marc Bain, Lovers of Brioni suits shouldn’t worry that a heavily tattooed Australian is the brand’s new creative head qz.com March 23, 2016
  15. ^ Elizabeth Patton, Brioni Announces Its Own Unconventional Hire The New York Times March 23, 2016
  16. ^ LAUREN SHERMAN, #Menswear is Dead. What's Next? JUNE 9, 2016
  17. ^ Brioni is the Latest Brand to Revamp its Image But Will it Work? June 29, 2016 The Fashion Law
  18. ^ MATTHEW SCHNEIER, The New Brioni, Shaken and Stirred New York Times , JULY 2, 2016
  19. ^ pitchfork.com Metallica Star in Hilarious Luxury Menswear Campaign, Matthew Strauss and Jazz Monroe, June 29, 2016
  20. ^ CHRISTOPHER MORENCY, Justin O'Shea Launches Own Brand: The launch of SSS World Corp marks O’Shea’s return to design following his departure from Brioni in October. businessoffashion.com APRIL 5, 2017
  21. ^ W magazine, Is Brioni's New Metallica Campaign Just John Varvatos-Lite? June 29, 2016, Max Lakin
  22. ^ Vogue (France), The new Brioni Man according to Justin O'Shea, Thaïs Dubs, translated by Cosima Baring, 05 July 2016
  23. ^ a b Justin O'Shea Exits Brioni TAMARA ABRAHAM, OCTOBER 4, 2016
  24. ^ KATIE BERRINGTON, Justin O'Shea Parts Ways With Brioni Vogue UK, 4 October 2016
  25. ^ Vogue UK, SCARLETT CONLON, Brioni Appoints CEO 17 March 2017
  26. ^ (in Italian) Malverdi è il nuovo CEO di Brioni, Pambianconews, 17 MARZO 2017
  27. ^ SCARLETT CONLON, Brioni's CEO Departs vogue.co.uk 28 February 2017
  28. ^ Women's Wear Daily, Gianluca Flore to Exit Brioni: Gianluca Flore joined Brioni in Nov. 2014. Luisa Zargani and Samantha Conti, February 28, 2017
  29. ^ Justin O’Shea Enlists Metallica For Brioni’s Radical Repositioning KATE ABNETT, JUNE 29, 2016
  30. ^ Store Locator brioni.com
  31. ^ Store Locator: Central America
  32. ^ Store Locator: CIS

External links[edit]

See also[edit]