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IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing for people with disabilities organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in various categories.

The first event was organized in Arco in 2011, held together with the IFSC Climbing World Championships.

Championships

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Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
Lead Speed
1 2011 Italy Arco 18–19 July X X [1]
2 2012 France Paris 12–16 September X [2][3]
3 2014 Spain Gijón 11–14 September X [1] [4][5]
4 2016 France Paris 14–18 September X [2] [6][7][8]
5 2018 Austria Innsbruck 10–16 September X [3] [9][10]
6 2019 France Briançon[11] 16–17 July X [12]
7 2021 Russia Moscow[13] 15–17 September X
8 2023 Switzerland Bern 1–12 August X
9 2025 South Korea Seoul

Classifications and Categories

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A wide range of different people take part in Paraclimbing, including visually impaired climbers, climbers with limb differences[14] and those with brain injuries or mobility impairments.[15][16] Higher numbers equate to higher functionality (less impairment), lower numbers equate to lower functionality (more impairment).[17]

Paraclimbing categories according to the 2024 IFSC regulations[18]
Category Criteria Example image
Visual impairment B1 Visual acuity is poorer than LogMAR 2.60 (blindness)
B2 LogMAR of 1.50 − 2.60 and/or visual field of less than 10°
B3 LogMAR of 1 − 1.40 (20/200 − 20/500 on the Snellen chart) and/or visual field of less than 40°
Upper limb(s) AU2 One upper limb has reduced function below the athletes elbow and does not have a functional wrist joint
AU3 One hand or multiple digits across both hands are absent or have reduced function
Lower limb(s) AL1 Significantly reduced functional use for climbing or absence of bilateral lower limbs
AL2 Impairment in a single lower limb or leg length difference
Range and power RP1 Impairment across all eligible impairment types with severe impairment to function affecting at least 2 limbs or a single upper limb is absent or has severely limited functional use
RP2 Impairment across all eligible impairment types with moderate impairment to function affecting the trunk and/or limbs
RP3 Impairment across all eligible impairment types with mild impairment to function affecting the trunk and/or limbs

In the 2022-2023 season AU1 was permanently combined with RP1, and a new category of upper arm limb difference was added. AU3 is the designated sport class for athletes with limb differences between the wrist and tips of the fingers. With a minimum impairment of a loss of 6 finger joints across both hands. Prior to the creation of this sport class many AU3 athletes classified in RP3.

Merging

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Merging order of paraclimbing categories[19]

If there is an insufficient number of competitors in a given category, this category can be merged into another, 'harder' category. In world championships at least six athletes from four countries must compete in each category. Merges may be performed sequentially until the required number of competitors is met.[18]

Men's results

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Speed

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Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[20] Amputee Arm PD Russia Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD China Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Germany Günther Grausam Italy Oliviero Bellinzani
Arthritis+Neurological PD Hungary András Szijártó Italy Matteo Alberghini France Philippe Ribière
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD Germany Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1 Italy Matteo Stefani Spain Manuel Cepero Gutierrez Russia Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2 Italy Simone Salvagnin Italy Oliviero Bellinzani -
Visual Impairment B3 Spain Domingo Carretero Campon Spain Ricardo Pérez Amado -

Lead

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Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[21] Amputee Arm PD Russia Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD China Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD Japan Mineo Ono Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Germany Alexander Biermann
Arthritis+Neurological PD Hungary András Szijártó Italy Matteo Masento Italy Alessio Cornamusini
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD Germany Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1 Italy Matteo Stefani Spain Manuel Cepero Gutierrez Russia Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi Japan Masayoshi Idomoto Italy Simone Salvagnin
Visual Impairment B3 Spain Ricardo Pérez Amado Spain Domingo Carretero Campon -
2012 Amputee Leg PD Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Japan Mineo Ono United States Craig Demartino
Arthritis+Neurological PD1 India Manikandan Kumar Brazil Raphael Nishimura France Mathieu Besnard
Visual Impairment B1 France Nicolas Moineau Japan Kenji Iwamoto Italy Matteo Stefani
Visual Impairment B2 Japan Sho Aita Japan Koichiro Kobayashi Italy Simone Salvagnin
2014 Amputee Leg PD Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran United States Ronald Dickson United States Craig Demartino
Visual Impairment B1 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi France Nicolas Moineau Italy Matteo Stefani
Neurological Physical Disability A France Mathieu Besnard India Manikandan Kumar Iran Behnam Khalaji
Neurological Physical Disability B Hungary András Szijártó Italy Alessio Cornamusini France Serge Laurencin
2016 B1 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi France Nicolas Moineau Italy Matteo Stefani
B2 Japan Sho Aita France Mathieu Barbe Italy Simone Salvagnin
AL-2 Spain Albert Guardia Ferrer France Julien Gasc Spain Iván Germán Pascual
RP1 Germany Korbinian Franck Germany Nils Helsper United States Connor King
RP2 Israel Nive Porat Italy Alessio Cornamusini Russia Vladimir Netsvetaev-Dolgalev
RP3 France Romain Pagnoux France Mathieu Besnard Slovenia Gregor Selak
2018 AU-2 United Kingdom Matthew Phillips United States Trevor Smith Russia Maksim Maiorov
B1 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi Italy Matteo Stefani Spain Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo
B2 United States Justin Salas Spain Raul Simon Franco Japan Fumiya Hamanoue
AL-2 France Thierry Delarue Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Spain Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1 Italy Alessio Cornamusini Germany Korbinian Franck Germany Nils Helsper
RP2 Iran Behnam Khalaji Israel Nive Porat India Manikandan Kumar
RP3 France Romain Pagnoux United Kingdom Michael Cleverdon Slovenia Gregor Selak
2019 AU-2 United Kingdom Matthew Phillips Israel Mor Michael Sapir Germany Kevin Bartke
B1 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi Spain Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo Russia Daniil Lisichenko
B2 Japan Sho Aita United States Justin Salas United Kingdom Richard Slocock
B3 Romania Cosmin Florin Candoi United Kingdom Lux Losey Sail Japan Motohiro Ejiri
AL-2 France Thierry Delarue Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Spain Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1 France Bastien Thomas Italy Alessio Cornamusini Germany Korbinian Franck
RP2 Iran Behnam Khalaji United States Benjamin Mayforth India Manikandan Kumar
RP3 France Romain Pagnoux France Mathieu Besnard Slovenia Gregor Selak
2021[22] B1 Japan Sho Aita Romania Razvan Nedu United Kingdom Jesse Dufton
B2 Japan Fumiya Hamanoue United Kingdom Richard Slocock Spain Raul Simon Franco
RP1 Austria Angelino Zeller [de] United States Tanner Cislaw Germany Korbinian Franck
RP2 Israel Mor Michael Sapir United States Benjamin Mayforth France Bastien Thomas
RP3 France Romain Pagnoux France Mathieu Besnard Iran Iman Edrisi
AL1 France Thierry Delarue Belgium Frederik Leys Japan Shuhei Yuki
AU2 United Kingdom Matthew Phillips United States Brian Zarzuela Germany Kevin Bartke
2023 B1 Japan Sho Aita Spain Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo Romania Răzvan Nedu
B2 Japan Fumiya Hamanoue United Kingdom Richard Slocock Spain Guillermo Pelegrín Gómez
B3 Romania Cosmin Florin Candoi Japan Kazuhiro Minowada United Kingdom Lux Losey Sail
AL1 Austria Angelino Zeller [de] Austria Markus Pösendorfer United States Tanner Cislaw
AL2 France Thierry Delarue United States Ethan Zilz Spain Albert Guardia Ferrer
AU2 Norway Isak Ripman Germany Kevin Bartke United States Brian Zarzuela
AU3 Israel Mor Michael Sapir Japan Nobuhiro Yusaraoka Switzerland Dominic Geisseler
RP1 France Aloïs Pottier United States Elliott Nguyen Japan Takuya Okada
RP2 Israel Mor Michael Sapir United States Benjamin Mayforth France Bastien Thomas
RP3 Spain Iván Muñoz Escolar United States Benjamin Mayforth India Manikandan Kumar

Women's Results

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Speed

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Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[20] Amputee Arm PD Spain Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD Ukraine Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1 Italy Silvia Parente Russia Dilyara Rakhmankulova -
Visual Impairment B2 Russia Tatiana Panova - -

Lead

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Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[21] Amputee Arm PD Spain Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD Ukraine Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1 Russia Dilyara Rakhmankulova Italy Silvia Parente -
Visual Impairment B2 Russia Tatiana Panova - -
2012 Visual Impairment Russia Dilyara Rakhmankulova Italy Silvia Parente Italy Giulia Poggioli
Physical Disability United Kingdom Frances Brown Italy Silvia Giacobbo Dal Prà Ukraine Valentyna Kurshakova
2014 Amputee Leg PD United States Christa Brelsford Canada Kate Sawford United Kingdom Esme Harte
Visual Impairment B2 Italy Alessia Refolo Slovenia Tanja Glusic Italy Giulia Poggioli
Neurological Physical Disability A Belgium Elodie Orbaen Italy Tiziana Paolini France Oriane Moreno
2016 AU-2 United States Maureen Beck Hungary Melinda Vigh Italy Lucia Capovilla
AL-2 France Lucie Jarrige Canada Kate Sawford United Kingdom Esme Harte
RP3 Belgium Elodie Orbaen France Oriane Moreno Japan Aika Yoshida
2018 AU-2 France Solenne Piret [fr; de] Hungary Melinda Vigh United States Maureen Beck
B2 United Kingdom Abigail Robinson United States Whiteny Pesek Slovenia Tanja Glusic
AL-2 France Lucie Jarrige Canada Kate Sawford United States Emily Stephenson
RP2 United Kingdom Hannah Baldwin France Marlene Prat United Kingdom Anita Aggarwal
RP3 Japan Aika Yoshida Japan Momoko Yoshida Belgium Elodie Orbaen
2019 AU-2 France Solenne Piret [fr; de] United States Maureen Beck Hungary Melinda Vigh
B2 United Kingdom Abigail Robinson Japan Yumi Ejiri Austria Edith Scheinecker
AL-2 France Lucie Jarrige United Kingdom Joanna Newton Germany Jaqueline Fritz
RP2 United Kingdom Hannah Baldwin United Kingdom Anita Aggarwal United Kingdom Leanora Volpe
RP3 Japan Aika Yoshida Japan Momoko Yoshida United Kingdom Martha Evans
2021 B2 United Kingdom Abigail Robinson Austria Edith Scheinecker Italy Nadia Bredice
B3 Romania Ionela Grecu Slovenia Tanja Glusic Indonesia Sunita Dhondappanavar
RP1 Belgium Pavitra Vandenhoven Netherlands Eva Mol Spain Marta Peche Salinero
RP2 France Solenne Piret [fr; de] United Kingdom Leanora Volpe Italy Lucia Capovilla
RP3 France Lucie Jarrige United Kingdom Martha Evans Austria Katharina Ritt
2023 B1 in B2
B2 United Kingdom Abigail Robinson United States Seneida Biendarra Austria Edith Scheinecker
B3 India Sunita Dhondappanavar Japan Mika Maeoka Japan Yumi Ejiri
AL1 in RP1
AL2 France Lucie Jarrige Australia Sarah Larcombe Australia Rachel Maia
AU2 France Solenne Piret [fr; de] Italy Lucia Capovilla United States Maureen Beck
AU3 in RP3
RP1 Belgium Pavitra Vandenhoven United States Melissa Ruiz Spain Marta Peche Salinero
RP2 Norway Dina Eivik Austria Jasmin Plank United States Anna Devries
RP3 Brazil Marina Dias Netherlands Christiane Luttikhuizen United Kingdom Martha Evans

References

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  1. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 1 June 2015. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  2. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 5 March 2014. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  3. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original (PDF) on 17 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ "World Championships".
  5. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on 6 July 2017. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original (PDF) on 19 October 2016. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  11. ^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  12. ^ "IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2019".
  13. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  14. ^ "World champs to be valuable experience for climber". NZ Herald. Retrieved 2022-11-03.
  15. ^ "ARTICLE: The Rise of the UK Paraclimbing Community". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2022-11-03.
  16. ^ "Hiking Mt. Whitney is tough. With a spinal cord injury, it's an endless suffer-fest". Los Angeles Times. 2021-09-22. Retrieved 2022-11-03.
  17. ^ "Classification". Paraclimbing News. Retrieved 2022-06-28.
  18. ^ a b "Paraclimbing routesetting guidelines - updated march 2023" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 2023.
  19. ^ "Paraclimbing routesetting guidelines - updated march 2023" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 2023.
  20. ^ a b "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - SPEED" (PDF).
  21. ^ a b "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - LEAD" (PDF).
  22. ^ "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Moscow 2021". Retrieved 2023-08-12.
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