Gangtok
 | |
| State | Sikkim |
| Population | 50,000 (2001) |
| Area | 25 sq km |
| Elevation | 1,780 m |
| Location | 27.2 °N — 88.4 °E |
| Temperature — Summer |
25 °C / 15 °C |
| Rainfall | 3,894 mm |
| STD code | +03552 |
| PIN code | 737 101 |
| Licence plate | SK-02 |
Gangtok is the capital and largest city of the Indian state of Sikkim. It is nestled in the lower Himalayas, located at 27.2 °N and 88.4 °E. Known for its clean surroundings and temperate climate, this hill station of about 50,000 people is the centre of Sikkim's tourist industry.
Gangtok is said to be one of India's safest cities. The town is also a centre of Tibetan Buddhist culture and learning with numerous monasteries and religious education institutions. It is one of the southernmost locations in South Asia to receive snowfall.
History
Not much is known about the early history of Gangtok. Gangtok means "Lofty Hill" or the "Hilltop flattened to build the Gangtok monastery" in the native Sikkimese language. Historians place the construction of this hermitic monastery, in 1716 to be the birth of Gangtok. The town was only a small hamlet for some time, but with the construction of the Enchey Monastery in 1840, Gangtok grew in size to become a pilgrimage town. With the arrival of the British in India, the nearby town of Darjeeling was made a hill station by the British to beat the summer heat in the plains. By the mid-1800s, Sikkim became a puppet state in the hands of the British, who used the territory as a base to counteract the growing Russian influence in Tibet. The Sikkimese potentate at that time, Chogyal Thutob Namgyal, was virtually under the directive of the British political officer Claude White, who was appointed in 1889.
After the defeat of the Tibetans, Gangtok became a major stopover in the trade between Tibet and British India in the late-1800s. Most of the roads and the telegraph in the area were built during this time. In 1894, Thutob Namgyal shifted the capital from Tumlong to Gangtok. As a result, Gangtok grew in stature. On the hill above, a new grand palace was built along with other buildings that served in the administration of the region. Following India's independence in 1947, Gangtok served as the capital of the nation-state of Sikkim. A treaty signed between the Chogyal and the then Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, made Sikkim a suzerain of India in exchange for it retaining its independence. Meanwhile, trade between India and Tibet continued to flourish through the Nathula and Jelepla passes, offshoots of the ancient Silk Route near Gangtok. After the Sino-Indian War in 1962, the border passes were sealed off, which led to the town being deprived of the trading profits. In 1975, the monarchy was abrogated and Sikkim became India's twenty-first state, with Gangtok as its capital.
Geography
Gangtok is situated in the Lower Himalayas at an altitude of 1,780 m (5,480 feet). The city, which lies in the southeast of the state, is also the capital of the East Sikkim district. The town is dispersed on one side of a hill, with the climactic point of the urban quarter being "The Ridge" — a promenade housing the governor's residence at one end, and the palace at the other — which is situated at an altitude of about 6,000 feet (1,828 m). The city overlooks the Ranipool River in the valley below. Most roads are steep and the many of the buildings are built on compacted ground alongside the roads. The peaks of the snow-clad Himalayan range, including the world's third tallest peak—the lofty Kanchenjanga—can be seen to the east of the city.
Gangtok enjoys a mild, temperate climate all year round owing to its sheltered environs and elevation. Like most Himalayan towns, Gangtok enjoys five seasons: summer, monsoons, autumn, winter and spring. Temperatures range from a peak high of 25°C in summer to a peak low of about 3°C in winter. Although snow does not fall within city limits during winter, it does fall within a kilometre of the city, on slightly elevated areas. During particularly cold winters, the lows sometimes plummet below freezing. During this season the weather is often unsettled, and can often suddenly change from bright sunshine with clear skies to heavy rain in a couple of hours.
During spring and autumn the weather is sunny and mild. Through the monsoon months between June and September, the town gets drenched by rain, often causing landslides in the area, which results in the town being sequestered from other parts of Sikkim. The lower Himalayas are composed of labile rock formations and therefore prone to landslides even in the dry seasons. Owing to its elevation, Gangtok is often enveloped in fog during the monsoon and winter months.
Flora around Gangtok includes evergreen coniferous trees of the wet alpine and temperate deciduous forests of poplar, birch, oak and elm. Densely forested regions of evergreens lie just around the town. A wide variety of rare orchids are also featured in flower shows around the city. During the winter months of November and December, flowers such as the sunflower, marigold and poinsettia bloom, bathing the avenues in various hues and colours. Bamboo, growing in abundance along the slopes of Gangtok, are a perennial source of spring water, which originates from the roots of the trees. In the lower reaches of the town, the vegetation graduates from alpine to subtropical and temperate deciduous.
Economy
Being the capital of Sikkim, Gangtok has many government offices, which employ most of the local populace, some as regular employees, others as contractors. The Sikkim Police is also a major employer; hiring many to patrol the streets, which helps to keep the crime low (evidenced by the fact that the local state jail houses just over two hundred inmates). The tourism industry indirectly employs many of Gangtok's inhabitants, from drivers to shopkeepers to hoteliers. Watch-making, country-made alcohol and handicrafts are cottage industries in Gangtok. The main market in Gangtok also provides many of the state's rural residents a place to offer their produce during the harvest seasons.
As a frontier state, the Indian army has a huge presence around Gangtok. This in turn means that there is a large population of semi-permanent residents that keep money flowing into the local economy. The government of Sikkim also earns a lot of its revenue from the numerous Playwin lottery centres in the city. With the proposed opening of the Nathula Pass by the Union government, Gangtok would see a surge in its economy due to trade between India and Tibet. The Nathula Pass, located about fifty kilometres from Gangtok, used to be the epicentre of the wool, fur and spice trade until 1962, when the border was closed.
Government
The civic infrastructure of Gangtok is overseen by the local municipal corporation. The aldermen of Municipal Corporation are directly elected by the people. The rural roads around Gangtok however, are maintained by the Border Roads Organisation, a part of the Indian army. As the capital of East Sikkim district, Gangtok also houses the offices of the district collector, an administrator appointed by the Union Government of India. Gangtok is also home to the Sikkim High Court, which is India's smallest High Court in terms of area and population of jurisdiction.
Sikkim is a sensitive state, as it shares its borders with three countries. Most parts of the state, including Gangtok are open to Indian, Nepali and Bhutanese nationals, but to all other nationalities an Inner Line Permit is needed to enter Sikkim.
Infrastructure
Owing to the cornucopia of natural springs in the vicinity, Gangtok never suffers from a water shortage. Numerous hydroelectric power stations in Sikkim see Gangtok enjoying an almost uninterrupted electricity supply. Gangtok has the state's only cardiac hospital.
Though Gangtok has many good schools, it has just a single college offering a degree in arts and commerce. Gangtok at present does not have a university within city limits; though it does have a few institutions offering diplomas in Buddhist literature, catering and other non-mainstream fields. As a result, many of its residents migrate to nearby Siliguri or Calcutta in search of a higher education. This is further compounded with the growing unemployment in the state, owing to the paucity in large-scale industries.
Media
Gangtok is well served by English, Nepali and Hindi dailies. Nepali language newspapers are locally printed, whereas Hindi and English newspapers are printed in Siliguri. English newspapers include The Statesman & The Telegraph which are printed in Siliguri; and The Hindu & The Times of India which are printed in Calcutta, and are received after a day's delay. The town has three cinema halls featuring Nepali, Hindi and English language films, and a public library.
Internet cafés are well established in and around the city, but true broadband connectivity has yet to make its mark. Satellite channels through dish antennae are prevalent in most homes in the region. Channels served are the same available throughout India along with a few Nepali language channels. The main service providers are Sikkim Cable, Dish TV, Doordarshan and Nayuma. The area is well serviced by local cellular companies such as BSNL, Reliance and Airtel, which have the three largest networks in the town. The national All India Radio is the only radio station in the city.
Transportation
Within Gangtok, the most widely available transportation are taxis. A majority of Gangtok's residents stay within a few kilometres of the town centre and many own their own vehicles. Those residing some distance away from the capital generally make use of share-jeeps, which are a kind of public taxis, to reach their destinations. The only capital city in India to have a cable car, it was initially constructed for the elected MLA's to reach the state Assembly. It is now open to the public, though the distance covered is less than a kilometre.
Gangtok is connected to the rest of India by an all-weather metalled highway — NH-31A. This highway links Gangtok to Siliguri, which lies in south in the neighbouring state of West Bengal. Siliguri, which is in the plains, is located at a distance of 114 km away. The highway also links the neighbouring hill station towns of Darjeeling and Kalimpong, which are the nearest urban areas. A regular jeep, van and bus service links the towns to Gangtok and is the only route to the city from the rest of India. The journey, which is undertaken on tortuous roads parallel to the River Teesta, takes about five hours. Darjeeling and Kalimpong which are 94 km and 75 km away, takes 4.5 and 2.5 hrs by road respectively. Both private and government buses are operated on these routes.
The nearest railhead which is connected to the rest of India is the station of New Jalpaiguri, which is a suburb of Siliguri, situated 124 km away from Gangtok. The nearest airport is Bagdogra Airport, 16 km from Siliguri. Although Gangtok does not have an airport, it is linked to Bagdogra airport via a regular helicopter service — the Sikkim Helicopter Service. A new airport which would be the state's first, is slated to be opened by mid-2005.
Demographics
The majority of Gangtok's fifty thousand residents are of ethnic Nepali origin. The native Sikkimese, consisting of Bhutias, Lepchas and Damais also make up a sizable portion of the populace. Additionally, a large number of Tibetans have immigrated to the town in recent years. Immigrant resident communities not native to the region include the Marwaris, who own most of the shops; the Biharis, who are employed in mostly blue collar jobs and the Bengalis. Hinduism (80%) and Buddhism (18%) are the two largest religions in Gangtok. Gangtok also has a sizable Christian population, most of which is of Lepcha origin, proselytised into the faith after British missionaries started preaching here in the late 19th century. The town staunchly maintains its secular credentials having never witnessed any sort of inter-religious strife in its history. A mosque in downtown Gangtok also serves the small Muslim minority.
Nepali is the most widely spoken language in Gangtok. English and Hindi are widely spoken and understood in most of Sikkim, particularly in Gangtok. Other languages spoken in Gangtok include Tibetan, Lepcha and Limboo.
Culture
Citizens in Gangtok are extremely fashion-conscious. The major Indian festivals, such as Diwali and Makar Sankranti (the popular Hindu festivals), are celebrated in Gangtok, along with Losar, Loosong, Bhumchu, Saga Dawa, Lhabab Duechen, Drupka Teshi and Bhumchu (all Buddhist festivals) are all celebrated in Gangtok. During the Losar—the Tibetan New Year in mid-December—most government offices and tourist centres are closed for a week. In recent times, Christmas has also been promoted in Gangtok.
Residents of Sikkim are music lovers and it is common to hear Western rock music being played in homes and restaurants. Hindi pop songs are also common. Indigenous Nepali rock—music suffused with a western rock beat and Nepali lyrics—is also particularly popular. Football (soccer) and cricket are the two most popular sports. The Paljor Stadium, which hosts football matches, is the sole sporting ground in the city.
Noodle-based foods such as the Thupka, Chowmein, Thanthuk, Fakthu, Gyathuk and Wonton are relished in Gangtok. The momo is a popular snack in the state made from vegetable, beef or pork filling, which is steamed and served with a soup. Alcohol is cheap owing to low excise duty in Sikkim and beer, whiskey, rum and brandy are frequently consumed by both locals and non-locals.
The city's architectural highlight is the 200 foot (91 m) TV tower that can be viewed miles away.
Institutions
A centre of Buddhist learning and culture, Gangtok's most famous Buddhist institutions are the Enchey monastery, the Do-drul Chorten stupa complex and the Rumtek Monastery. The Enchey monastery is the city's oldest monasteries and is the seat of the Nyingma order, built on the site venerated by Lama Druptob Karpo. The two-hundred year old baroque monastery houses images of gods, goddesses and other religious artefacts. In the month of January, the Chaam or masked dance is performed with great fanfare. The Dro-dul Chorten, is a stupa was constructed in 1945 by Trulshi Rimpoché, head of the Nyingma order of Tibetan Buddhism. Inside this august stupa, are complete sets of relics, holy books and mantras. Surrounding the edifice, there are 108 Mani Lhakor or prayer wheels. The complex also houses a religious school.
On the opposite hill at a distance of twenty-four kilometres is the Rumtek Monastery, one of Buddhism's most sacred monasteries. The monastery is the seat of the Kagyu order, one of the major Tibetan sects, and houses some of the world's most sacred and rare Tibetan Buddhist scriptures and religious objects in its reliquary. Constructed in the 1960s, the building is modelled after a similar monastery in Lhasa, Tibet. Rumtek was the focus of international media attention in 2000 after the seventeenth Karmapa, one of the four holiest lamas, fled Lhasa and sought refuge in the monastery.
The Namgyal Research Institute of Tibetology, better known as the Tibetology Museum houses a huge collection of masks, Buddhist scriptures, statues and tapestries. It has over two hundred Buddhist icons and is a centre of study of Buddhist philosophy. The Ganesh Tok and the Hanuman Tok, dedicated to the Hindu gods Ganpati and Hanuman, housing important Hindu temples located in the upper reaches of the town.
The Himalayan Zoological Park exhibits the fauna of the Himalayas in their natural habitats. The zoo features the hirsute Himalayan Black Bear, the barking deer, the snow leopard, the civet cat, red pandas and the spotted deer. The Jawaharlal Nehru Botanical Gardens, near Rumtek, houses many species of bamboo and oak and as many as fifty different kinds of tree species.
References
- Holidaying in Sikkim and Bhutan – published by Nest and Wings— ISBN 81-87592-07-9
- Sikkim — Land of Mystic and Splendour – published by Sikkim Tourism
- Manorama Year Book 2003 – ISBN 81-900461-8-7
External Links
- Sikkim info — A treasure trove of information on Sikkim in general.
- Tourist places India — some factoids on Gangtok.
- Indian visit A brief account of Gangtok
- Report on the crime rate in Gangtok Gangtok Times Online
- SISI, Govt. of Sikkim — Small scale industries of Sikkim, Gangtok office
- Gangtok Times — Gangtok's local weekly newspaper
- Indiainfo city guides
- World.com
- Quest Himalayas
- World66
- Tourism of India
- Free India