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Himarë

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Himarë
Country Albania
CountyVlorë County
DistrictVlorë District
Government
 • MayorVasil Bollano
Elevation
0−2,000 m m (0 ft)
Population
 • Total3,000
Area code393

Himarë (also Albanian: Himara, from Greek: Χειμάρρα, Himarra) is a bilingual town and region in southern Albania, part of the District of Vlorë. Apart from the town of Himara, the region consists of 7 other villages: Dhërmi/Drimades, Palase/Palasa, Vuno/Vouno, Pilur/Pilouri, Qeparo/Kiparon, Kudhës/Koudesi, and Iliasi/Ilias.

Geography

Orthodox church in Himara

The Himara region is characterized by high mountains (~2000 meters), called Llogara (known in antiquity and in Greek as the Ceraunian mountains) falling steeply to the sea. There are long white sandy beaches and the few hills close to the sea are terraced and planted with olive and citrus trees.

History

Ancient history

Tribes of Epirus in antiquity.

In antiquity the region was inhabited by the Greek tribe of the Chaonians[1]. The Chaonians were one of the three principal Greek-speaking tribes of Epirus, along with the Thesprotians and the Molossians.[2][3] The town of Himara is believed to have been founded as Χίμαιρα[4], (Chimaira[5], hence the name Himara) by the Chaonians as a trading outpost on the Chaonian shore. However, another theory according to the name suggest that comes from Greek χείμαρρος (cheimarros), meaning "torrent"[6].

In classical antiquity, Himara was part of the Kingdom Epirus under the rule of the Molossian Aeacid dynasty, which included King Pyrrhus of Epirus. When the region was conquered by the Roman Republic in the 2nd century BC, its settlements were badly damaged and some were destroyed by the Roman General Aemilius Paulus.

Local tradition identifies the area as the site of Julius Caesar's landing in Epirus in pursuit of Pompey the Great during the Roman civil war. He is said to have assembled his army near Himara before marching on to take the town of Oricon (modern archaeological park of Oricum) to the north of the Ceraunian mountains, on the bay of Avlona (modern-day Vlorë).

Middle Ages and early modern times

Himara and the rest of northern Epirus passed into the hands of the Byzantine Empire[7][8] following the fall of Rome, but like the rest of the region it became the frequent target of various attackers including the Goths, Avars, Slavs, Bulgars, Saracens and Normans. Himara is mentioned in Procopius of Caesarea work called Buildings[9] in 544 AD as Chimaeriae. He mentions it of being part of Old Epirus and that a new fortress was built in its location. In 614 the Slavic tribe of the Baiounetai invaded the area and controlled a region from Himara to Margariti called Vagenetia[9].

The use of the name "Chaonia" in reference to the region apparently died out during the 12th century, the last time it is recorded (in a Byzantine tax collection document).

The Ottoman Empire overran northern Epirus from the late 14th century, but being a natural fortress, Himara was the only region that did not submit to Ottoman Turkish rule. It became a symbol of resistance to the Turks but suffered from an almost continuous state of warfare. In the summer of 1473 the Greek revolutionary Ioannis Vlasis, with a small unit from nearby Corfu as well as with native Himariot support, took control of the entire coastal region from Sagiada to Himara, but when the ongoing Turkish-Venetian war ended (1479) the region was again under Ottoman control.[10] In 1481, one year after the Ottomans had landed in Otranto in southern Italy, the Himariotes joined the forces of Gjon Kastrioti, son of Skanderbeg in his uprising against the Ottomans.[11] The uprising failed, but the Himariotes rose again in 1488, and between 1494-1509, destabilizing Turkish control but failing to liberate their territory. Following the rising of 1482 several Himariote families fled the town for Sicily where they were granted land near Palermo which subsequently became the village of Piana degli Albanesi, the inhabitants of which still speak a dialect of Albanian called Arberisht.

The Ottoman Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent personally led a large army to take Himara in 1537, resulting in a particularly bloody but indecisive confrontation. Following this result, he set forth a number of laws to regulate the relationship oh Himara with the Empire. These included such rights as the exemption of the Himariotes from taxes, the right to sail under their own flag into any Ottoman port, and the right to carry guns while traveling in Ottoman territory.

The Turkish defter for census and tax collection purposes of 1583, lists the following names in Himara: [[3]] [[4]]:

1.Lirbo? Mujo - 2. Todor Kudhes?- 3. Gjoka Boga - 4. Andrea Musica - 5. Balsh Dhima - 6. Komin Voja, Doja?- 7. Gjoka Dhamo - 8. Petri Gjoni - 9. Todor Brati, Perlin?- 10. Mitri...- 11. Mark Gjoni - 12. Gjika Gjoni - 13. Todor Lumadhi - 14. Dhimo Papa - 15. Kondi Petri - 16.- Andon Ajas - 17. Todor Kondavik?- 18. Meksi Palloshi - 19. Gjon Palloshi - 20 - Dede Kola - 21. Dhuman Gjipali, Gjikalli?- 22. Nikola Gjin Miri? 23. Gjek Leka - 24.- Gjoka Nika - 25. Mark Suvari?- 26. Gjon Palloshi - 27. Kondi Camije?- 28.- Petri Gjini - 29. Petri Petri - 30. Todor Gjinok?- 31. Pteri Gjoni - 32. Gjik Llanka - 33.- Gjin Gjon Aleksi - 34.- Mihran? Levendari?- 35. Kond Martini - 36. Dembllar? Dimitrie - 37. Nike Martini - 38. Gjok Alemdari - 39. Gjok Dhim Gjini - 40. Dole Mandashi - 41. Martin Zylkader?- 42. Kondaramo Muka - 43. Si i pari - 44. Aleks Peci - 45. Gjini Gjorzaj - 46. Gjika Llazari - 47 Dhimo Tanushi - 48. Pali Dhjako - 49. Martin Tanushi, Janushi?- 50 Gjika Mehilli - 51. Emeklu? Dhjako - 52. Gjon Pavllari Mehilli - 53. Dhimo Gjon Vllasi - 54. Petri Dhima - 55. Dhima Emelkuri?- 56. Thanas Jorgonllu?- 57. Nika Kallandori - 58. Aleks Menko, Nenko?- 59. Dhimo Dermali - 60. Leka Dermali - 61. Kuka Leondari - 62. Selka Ulmi, Almi?- 63 Todor Gjini - 64. Gjok Gjini - 65. Simon Nika - 66. Dhimo Mamija?- 67. Meks Mamija - 68. gjon Leondari - 69. Kond Andredo?- 70 Gjin Todori - 71. Pal Melani - 72. Meks Mitrije - 73. Andrea Gjomija?- 74. Pali Panajoti - 75. Kont Lela, Della?- 76. Gjurka Kondi - 77. Gjika Dhima - 78. Dhima Gjon Meshi - 79. Nika Dhima - 80. Kont Gjoni - 81. Dhima Mihallo? Limarho?- 82. Andrea Zota, Voja?- 83. Dhima Nika - 84. Papa Thanasi - 85. Todor Nika - 86. Kond Todori - 87. Gjoka Jorgo - 88. Papa Aleksi - 89. Andrea Petri - 90. Leondar Meksi - 91. Todor Meksi - 92. Nika Plaku - 93. Gjon Menika, Mnika?- 94. Gjin Meksi - 95. Meks Mnika, Menika?- 96. Gjok Pali - 97. Kond Papa - 98. Dhimo Papa - 99. Muji...- 100. Gjin Pali - 101. Todor Gjin Gjoni - 102. Dhimo Gjin Dhima - 103. Nika Leka - 104. Dhimo Andrea - 105. Andrea Menkuli - 106. Gjok Menkuli - 107. Bardho? Ali Kopalli?- 108. Gjin Jorga - 109. Gjok Gjin Pjetri - 110. Nikolla Gjoni - 111. Kont Premti - 112. Papa Nikolla - 113. Kont Gjoni - 114. Nika Gjin 115.... Zoto - 116. Gjok Jorgo - 117. Dhimo Pelikani - 118. Menkul Gjoni - 119. Kont Panomllu - 120. Andrea Jorgo - 121. Kond Andrea - 122. Petri ...- 123. Todor Mirdemko - 124. Dhimo Andrea - 125. Todor ...- 126. Aleksi Papa - 127. Zot Gjoni - 128. Niko Mirini?- 129. Dhimo Kondi - 130.... Bardhi - 131. Dhimo Leka - 132. Gjoka Dhimo - 133. Lika Kondi - 134. Petri Todori - 135. Jorgo Andrea - 136.......- 137. Martin Gjini

Despite this agreement, the Ottomans subsequently made several unsuccessful attempts to conquer Himara, first in 1571, then again in 1595, 1690, and 1713. In total three different Ottoman sultans personally led military campaigns against Himara, each failing in turn. During these years, the people of Himara established close links to the Italian city states, especially Naples and the powerful Republic of Venice, and later with Austro-Hungary, which controlled Corfu and the other Ionian Islands. During this time and thereafter, many Himariotes emigrated to the outside world and brought valuable skills back home with them. In 1848 even a small village like Dhermi could boast two doctors graduated in Athens and Vienna.

The first school in the region opened in 1627, where lessons were held in Greek language. The following years (until 1633) Greek language schools opened also in the villages of Dhërmi and Palasa.[12]

From 1799 to present times

Ethnographic map of the Epirus region from 1878, with the Himara region highlighted.

In 1797, Ali Pasha, the Muslim Albanian ruler of the Ottoman Pashalik of Yanina, led a raid on the town of Himara because they supported his enemy, the Souliotes, and more than 6,000 civilians were slaughtered.[13] Two years later, Ali Pasha tried to create good relations with the Himariotes after declaring their enclave part of his emerging semi-independent state, by financing various public works and churches. A church he built near Himara, opposite of the Porto Palermo (Panormos) castle is the largest and most magnificent in the region and still stands today as a major tourist attraction. Ali Pasha's rule over Himara lasted about 20 years until it was abruptly terminated by his murder at the hands of the Ottoman agents. Himara subsequently reverted to its status quo ante of an enclave surrounded by Ottoman territory.

To emphasize the region's special status, the terms that the Himariotes had reached with Suleiman the Magnificent were inscribed on bronze tablets at the request of their leaders, who wanted to record the agreement on a durable medium. These tablets are preserved to this day in the Topkapi palace museum in Istanbul. In 1854, during the Crimean War, a major local rebellion broke out, with Himara being one of the first towns that joined it. Although the newly found Greek state tried tacitly to support it, the rebellion was suppressed by Ottoman forces after a few months[14][15].

The region of Himare rose in revolt in November 1912, under Spyros Spyromilios, during the Balkan Wars[16], wanting to join Greece and expelling the local Ottoman authorities. In March 1914, the "Protocol of Corfu" was signed, which established the Autonomous Republic of Northern Epirus, of which Himara formed a part, though the region formally remained part of the newly formed Albanian state. During the First World War, Himara was under Greek administration (Oct. 1914-Sept. 1916) and then occupied by Italy. The Italians used Austro-Hungarian prisoners of war to build a road running through Himara, which greatly reduced the region's isolation.

Later, Himara was again occupied by the Italians as part of the Italian invasion in Albania. The Italian Fascist Army was evicted by the Greek Army during the Greco-Italian War of 1940-41, and Himara was briefly re-joined Greece until the German invasion in 1941.

Demographics

The population of the Himara region is estimated at around 11,000 inhabitants.[17] A larger part of the town claims to be Greek and they back the Greek minority's Unity for Human Rights Party in the region, while the possibility of victory by the party in the municipal elections in the past triggered nationalist rhetoric, both at the local and even national level and heightened tension in the town[18][19].

Language

Main article: Himariote Greek dialect

The vast majority of people in Himarë, who call themselves "Horiani" are bilingual in both Albanian and Greek. In the town of Himara as well as in nearby villages of Dhërmi and Palasa mainly speak a unique local Greek dialect that preserves many archaic features no longer found in standard Modern Greek. This dialect has small variations in the way it is spoken in every town, especially in the accent. On the other hand the surrounding towns of Ilias, Vuno, Qeparo, Kudhes and Pilur mainly speak the Tosk Albanian dialect.[20]

In the spring of 2006, a private Greek-language school was opened in the town of Himara.[21]

Notable Himariotes

  • The Himara region seen from the Llogara pass.
    The Himara region seen from the Llogara pass.
  • The Ionian sea at sunset seen from the Llogara pass.
    The Ionian sea at sunset seen from the Llogara pass.
  • Cove near Himara, including Communist-era submarine pen.
    Cove near Himara, including Communist-era submarine pen.
  • The beach of Himara town
    The beach of Himara town
  • Typical scenery of the Himara region
    Typical scenery of the Himara region
  • The Ceraunian mountains (Llogara) up close
    The Ceraunian mountains (Llogara) up close
  • Himara coastline
    Himara coastline
  • The village of Vuno.
    The village of Vuno.

See also

References

  1. ^ Hammond, NGL (1994). Philip of Macedon. London, UK: Duckworth. "Epirus was a land of milk and animal products...The social unit was a small tribe, consisting of several nomadic or semi-nomadic groups, and these tribes, of which more than seventy names are known, coalesced into large tribal coalitions, three in number: Thesprotians, Molossians and Chaonians...We know from the discovery of inscriptions that these tribes were speaking the Greek language (in a West-Greek dialect)"
  2. ^ Hecataeus of Miletus, Fr.103
  3. ^ Plutarch, Pyrrhus at The Internet Classics Archive
  4. ^ An Inventory of Archaic and Classical Poleis: An Investigation Conducted by The Copenhagen Polis Centre for the Danish National Research Foundation by Mogens Herman Hansen,2005,page 340
  5. ^ Chimaira, Henry George Liddell, Robert Scott, A Greek-English Lexicon, at Perseus
  6. ^ Cheimarros, Henry George Liddell, Robert Scott, A Greek-English Lexicon, at Perseus
  7. ^ Badlands, borderlands: a history of Northern Epirus/Southern Albania by Tom Winnifrith,2002,ISBN-0715632019,page 80
  8. ^ "Byzantine Empire". Encyclopaedia Britannica.
  9. ^ a b Epirus Vetus: The Archaeology of a Late Antique Province (Duckworth Archaeology) by William Bowden,2003,ISBN 0715631160,2003,page 14
  10. ^ M. V. Sakellariou. Epirus, 4000 years of Greek history and civilization. Ekdotikē Athēnōn, 1997, p. 244 ISBN 9789602133712.
  11. ^ Gli Umanisti e la guerra otrantina: testi dei secoli XV e XVI Volume 5 of Nuova biblioteca DedaloAuthors Lucia Gualdo Rosa, Isabella Nuovo, Domenico Defilippis Editors Lucia Gualdo Rosa, Isabella Nuovo, Domenico Defilippis Publisher EDIZIONI DEDALO, 1982 ISBN 8822060059, 9788822060051 page 97 link [1]
  12. ^ Contested Spaces and Negotiated Identities in Dhermi/Drimades of Himare/Himara area, Southern Albania. Nataša Gregorič Bon. Nova Gorica 2008, p. 67.
  13. ^ Antonina Zhelyazkova.Urgent Anthropology. Vol. 2. Albanian Prospects. IMIR, Sofia, 2003. p. 90
  14. ^ M. V. Sakellariou. Epirus, 4000 years of Greek history and civilization. Ekdotike Athenon, 1997. ISBN 9789602133712, p. 288
  15. ^ Reid, James J. (2000). Crisis of the Ottoman Empire: prelude to collapse 1839-1878. Franz Steiner Verlag. ISBN 9783515076876.
  16. ^ Badlands, borderlands: a history of Northern Epirus/Southern Albania by Tom Winnifrith,2002,ISBN-0715632019,page 129
  17. ^ Gregorič 2008: 226
  18. ^ http://www.setimes.com/cocoon/setimes/xhtml/en_GB/features/setimes/newsbriefs/2007/01/22/nb-01
  19. ^ [2]Nationalist rhetoric during the campaign, both at the local and national level, had heightened tension in the town over a possible victory by the local ethnic Greek Human Rights Union Party.
  20. ^ Gregorič 2008: 63
  21. ^ Gregorič 2008: 68
  22. ^ Marko, Petro. Intervistë me vetveten (Retë dhe gurët) (memories). OMSCA, 2000. 99927-40-33-7
  23. ^ http://www.hri.org/news/greek/mpa/1997/97-07-25.mpa.html#15 Macedonian Press Agency
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