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Mario Testino

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Mario Testino
Mario Testino
Born
Mario Eduardo Testino Silva

30 October 1954 (1954-10-30) (age 70)
NationalityPeruvian
EducationUniversidad del Pacífico
Pontificia Universidad Catolica del Peru
University of San Diego
Apprenticeship John Vickers Studio (London)
Apprenticeship Paul Nugent Studio (London)
Known forFashion photographer
Portrait photographer
Creative Director
Philanthropist
Websitemariotestino.com

Mario Testino OBE (born on 30 October 1954) is a Peruvian fashion and portrait photographer. His work has featured internationally in magazines such as Vogue, V Magazine, Vanity Fair and GQ. He has also created images for brands such as Gucci, Burberry, Versace, Michael Kors, Chanel, Estée Lauder and Lancôme.

Alongside his practice as a photographer, Testino has also worked as a creative director, guest editor, museum founder, art collector/collaborator and entrepreneur.[1][2]

In 2007, he formed MARIOTESTINO+,[3] which provides creative direction, art direction, brand strategy, graphic design, film and stills production, digital and social media, product development, books, exhibitions, licensing and partnerships.[4]

Aaron Hicklin of The Observer described him as "the world's most prolific magazine and fashion trade photographer".[5]

Early life

Testino was born and grew up in Lima to an upper class Catholic family.[6] He was the eldest of six children and is of Irish, Spanish and Italian descent.[7] He attended the Catholic school Santa Maria Marianistas. As a child he wanted to be a priest.[8] Testino studied Economics at Universidad del Pacífico[9] followed by the Pontificia Universidad Catolica del Peru and the University of San Diego.

In 1976 he went to London to study photography after abandoning his studies of Economics, Law and International Affairs.[7] It was during apprenticeships at the studios of John Vickers and Paul Nugent that he made his first attempts as a photographer. Living in an unconverted floor of a hospital, without much money,[10] he funded himself by working as a waiter. He had his hair dyed pink which helped him get noticed as a photographer[11] and took inspiration from British celebrity fashion photographer Cecil Beaton.[12] London was a city that allowed him to flourish expressively without the restrictions he felt were imposed on him in Peru.[13] During the early nineties, Testino looked to his childhood growing up in Peru and his teenage summers in Brazil for inspiration,[14] which helped him to shape his photographic language. His work first appeared in Vogue in 1983.[15]

Career

Testino has become one of the world’s most well known and celebrated fashion photographers. He has documented subjects from A-list stars, musicians, supermodels and artists as well as subjects he has encountered throughout his travels. His work has been featured in magazines such as Vogue, V Magazine, Vanity Fair, GQ, LOVE, Allure and VMan. Eighteen exhibitions and more than sixteen books have been published on his work. Suzy Menkes, Vogue’s International Editor explains, "Testino’s skill is first and foremost to catch the moment and to bring out the humanity in his subjects".[16]

Some of Testino's most recognisable work derives from his portraits of royals, most famously, his series with Diana, Princess of Wales in 1997.[17] Commissioned for Vanity Fair he said: "[Diana] opened a door for me because I then started photographing the royal families of Europe extensively... this brings out my love for tradition, for a way of showing family and the longevity of people".[18]

Testino was also the official photographer for portraits of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge on the occasion of their engagement in December 2010.[19] In July 2015, he took the official photographs of the British Royal Family after HRH Princess Charlotte of Cambridge's christening at Sandringham Estate. He has photographed many other royal families in a similar fashion.[20]

Testino's collaboration with Tom Ford and fashion stylist Carine Roitfeld on provocative advertising campaigns in the mid-1990s is widely credited to have led to the revival of Gucci as a major fashion house.[21] He has also crafted and contributed to the imagery of leading fashion establishments such as Burberry, Michael Kors, Dolce & Gabbana, Estée Lauder, Valentino, Versace, Calvin Klein and Salvatore Ferragamo among others.

Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue stated that "Fashion photography is this uneasy mix of art and commerce and I think nobody understands this better than Mario".[22][23] Aaron Hicklin of The Observer described him as "the world's most prolific magazine and fashion trade photographer".[6] His persistence in shooting Gisele Bündchen & Kate Moss is widely credited with elevating their supermodel status.[6]

Testino was nicknamed the "John Singer Sargent of our times" by Terence Pepper, photography curator at the National Portrait Gallery in London.[16] The Gallery’s 2002 Portraits exhibition attracted more visitors than any other show in the museum’s history at the time. For ten years it had the highest attendance of any exhibition ever to be held there. Over the next four years the exhibition toured globally.[24]

Testino's personal art collection has been the subject of two exhibitions.[25] The first, Somos Libres in 2013 was at MATE - Museo Mario Testino in Lima, Peru. The second installation in 2014, Somos Libres II took place at the Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli in Turin, Italy.

His relationship with fine art developed through frequent visits to galleries and artist's studios[26][27] and he has collaborated to create works with artists such as Keith Haring,[28] Vik Muniz,[29] John Currin[30] and Julian Schnabel.[31]

Testino was presented with an honorary OBE on 14 January 2014 by UK Culture Minister Ed Vaizey in recognition of his career and charity work.[32] In 2011, he was also awarded an Honorary Fellowship by The Royal Photographic Society.[33] These are awarded to distinguished persons having, from their position or attainments, an intimate connection with the science or fine art of photography or the application thereof. In this same year GQ also awarded Testino the Man of the Year Inspiration Award.[34]

In Latin America, he has been awarded The Grand Cross rank of the Order of Merit for Distinguished Service in Peru (2010)[35] as well as The Tiradentes Medal in Brazil (2007).[36]

Within the fashion and entertainment industry he has received the Walpole Ward for services to the luxury industry (2009),[37] the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award (2005)[38] and the British Style Award (2003).[39]

Selected clients[40]

Allure, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Roberto Cavalli, Chanel, Cîroc, Dolce & Gabbana, Estée Lauder, Etro, Fabergé, Ferragamo, Furla, Gap, GQ, Gucci, Givenchy, Harper’s Bazaar, Hugo Boss, Iguatemi, Lancôme, Loewe, The Macallan, Massimo Dutti, Mercedes Benz, Michael Kors, Missoni, Ochirly, Ralph Lauren, Revlon, Stefanel, St John, Stuart Weitzman, Shiseido, Shanghai Tang, Sonia Rykiel, Tod's, Trussardi, V Magazine, Valentino, Vanity Fair, Versace, VMAN, Vogue (American, Brazilian, British, Chinese, Dutch, French, German, Italian, Japanese, Russian and Spanish editions), Wolford.

Philanthropy

Testino has been honoured for his contributions to many non-profit causes and charitable organisations through various awards and recognitions. In 2010 he was also appointed one of the highest honours in his native country, The Grand Cross Order of Merit in Peru, and became President of the Board of World Monuments Fund Peru[41] in 2014.

He has worked with Save the Children, amfAR, Elton John AIDS Foundation and CLIC Sargent for children with cancer. In his role as a Save the Children ambassador he helped to raise funds to build the El Salvador Clinic in the Pueblo Nuevo District, Chincha, in his native Peru. The clinic was built for children with tuberculosis in the area badly affected by the devastating earthquake, which hit the coast of Peru in August 2007. The El Salvador Clinic was entirely funded from the sale of a single print from Mario Testino’s iconic portraits of Princess Diana, auctioned for £100,000.[8]

He has also helped to raise money for Natalia Vodianova's Naked Heart Foundation to build a playground in a Moscow children’s hospital specialising in cancer. It is a cause close to his heart since his brother died from the disease at the age of 10.[8]

The arts are a source of great pleasure to Testino to the extent that in July 2012 he opened his first non-profit association in Barranco, Lima. MATE - Museo Mario Testino was established to act as a dynamic platform for Peruvian art through the cultivation and promotion of culture and heritage.[42] Testino restored a colonial, 13,000 sq. ft. mansion built in 1898, which today is home to a permanent exhibition of his work alongside a Temporary Exhibition Space for Peruvian and international artists.[43][44]

Exhibitions

Solo Exhibitions

2016

  • No Limits, Kunstforeningen GL STRAND, Copenhagen, Denmark[45]

2015

  • In Your Face, Kunstbibliothek / Kulturforum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Berlin, Germany[46]

2014

  • Alta Moda, Dallas Contemporary, Dallas, US[47]
  • In Your Face, Fundação Armando Alvares, Penteado (FAAP), São Paulo, Brazil[48]
  • Extremes, Yvon Lambert Gallery, Paris, France[49]
  • In Your Face, MALBA, Buenos Aires, Argentina[50]

2013

  • Alta Moda, Queen Sofía Spanish Institute, New York, US[51]
  • Private View, Seoul Arts Center, Seoul, South Korea[52]
  • Alta Moda, MATE – Museo Mario Testino, Lima, Peru[53]
  • Mario Testino, Prism, Los Angeles, US[54]

2012

  • Private View, Shanghai Art Museum, Shanghai, China[55]
  • British Royal Portraits, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, US[56]
  • In Your Face, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, US[57]
  • British Royal Portraits, National Portrait Gallery, London, UK[58]
  • Todo o Nada, MATE – Museo Mario Testino, Lima, Peru[59]
  • Private View, Today Art Museum, Beijing, China[60]

2011

  • Todo o Nada, Fondazione Memmo – Palazzo Ruspoli, Rome, Italy[61]

2010

  • Todo o Nada, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza,[62] Madrid, Spain
  • Kate Who?, Phillips de Pury & Company, London, UK[63]
  • Portraits, Museo de Arte de Lima, Lima, Peru[64]

2008

  • Obsessed by You, Phillips de Pury & Company, London, UK[65]

2007

  • Out of Fashion, NRW Forum, Düsseldorf, Germany[66]

2006

  • Out of Fashion, Phillips de Pury & Company, Paris, France[67]
  • Portraits, Museo San Ildefonso, Mexico City, Mexico[68]
  • Disciples, Galería Ramis Barquet, Monterrey, Mexico[69]
  • Out of Fashion, Phillips de Pury & Company, New York, US[70]

2005

  • Diana, Princess of Wales by Mario Testino, Kensington Palace, London, UK[71]

2004

  • Portraits, Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, Tokyo, Japan[72]

2003

  • Disciples, Timothy Taylor Gallery, London, UK[73]
  • Portraits, National Galleries of Scotland, Edinburgh, UK[74]

2002

  • Portraits, Foam Fotografiemuseum, Amsterdam, Netherlands[75]
  • Portraits, Museo Palazzo Reale, Milan, Italy[76]
  • Boys and Girls, Galleri Charlotte Lund, Stockholm, Sweden[77]
  • Portraits, National Portrait Gallery, London, UK[78]

2000

  • Mario Testino, Galerie Vedovi, Brussels, Belgium[79]

1999

  • Amsterdam, Timothy Taylor Gallery, London, UK[80]
  • Front Row / Backstage, Visionaire Gallery, New York, US[81][82]

1998

  • Mario Testino, Mary Boone Gallery, New York, US[83]
  • Fashion Photographs, Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado (FAAP), São Paulo, Brazil[48]
  • A New Venture, Galleria Raucci/Santamaria, Naples, Italy[84]

1997

  • Fashion Photographs 1993–1997 & Images for Gucci, Bunkamura Gallery, Tokyo, Japan[80]

Art Collection Exhibitions

2014

  • Somos Libres II, Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli, Turin, Italy[85]

2013

  • Somos Libres, MATE – Museo Mario Testino, Lima, Peru[86]

Bibliography

Books and Catalogues

  • SIR Taschen, 2015[87]
  • Alta Moda MATE (Museo Mario Testino), 2013[88]
  • In Your Face Taschen, 2012[89]
  • Private View Taschen, 2012[90]
  • Kate Moss by Mario Testino Taschen, 2011[91]
  • Kate Who? Phillips de Pury, 2010[63]
  • Todo o Nada, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, 2010[62]
  • MaRIO DE JANEIRO Testino Taschen, 2009[92]
  • Obsessed by You Phillips de Pury, 2008[93]
  • Let Me In! Taschen, 2007[94]
  • Out of Fashion Phillips de Pury, 2006[95]
  • Diana Princess of Wales by Mario Testino at Kensington Palace Taschen, 2005[96]
  • Kids Scriptum Editions, 2003[97]
  • Disciples Timothy Taylor Gallery, 2003[98]
  • Portraits Bulfinch Press, 2002[99]
  • Alive Bulfinch, 2001[100]
  • Front Row/Backstage Bulfinch, 1999[82]
  • Any Objections? Phaidon, 1998[101]
  • Fashion Photographs Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado (FAAP), 1998[102]
  • Fashion Photographs 1993-1997 & Images for Gucci Art Partner, 1997[103]

Recognition & Awards

2016

  • Clio Fashion & Beauty Lifetime Achievement Award: 57th Annual Award Show, New York, US[104]

2015

  • International Center of Photography Infinity Award: Special Presentation, New York, US[105]
  • ICP Mario Testino: ICP Infinity Award, Harvers Studios & The International Center of Photography, New York, US[106]

2014

  • Honorary Officer of the Order of the British Empire in recognition of services to photography and charity, London, UK[107]
  • Best Photographer in the World Award, Spanish Vogue, Madrid, Spain[108]

2012

  • AmfAR Inspiration Award, São Paulo, Brazil[109]

2011

  • British GQ Man of the Year, Inspiration Award, London, UK[110]
  • El Museo del Barrio Lifetime Achievement Award, New York, US[111]
  • Honorary Fellowship of The Royal Photographic Society, Bath, UK[112]
  • Moët & Chandon Étoile Award, London, UK[113]
  • Queen Sofía Spanish Institute Gold Medal, New York, US[114]

2010

  • The Grand Cross rank of the Order of Merit for Distinguished Service in Peru, Lima, Peru[115]

2009

  • Walpole Award for services to the luxury industry, London, UK[37]

2008

  • ASME National Magazine Award, “Best Fashion Cover” for the September 2007 edition of Vanity Fair, New York, US[116]
  • Commitment Award, United Nations and Women Together, New York, US[117]
  • Hero Award, Aid for Aids, New York, US[117]

2007

  • The Tiradentes Medal, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil[118]

2005

  • Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award, Los Angeles, US[119]

2004

  • Doctor Emeritus of the University of the Arts London, London, UK[120]

2003

  • British Style Award, London, UK[121]
  • Elle Style Award, London, UK[122]

Selected Special Projects & Guest Editorships by Mario Testino

2014

  • Vogue Japan 15th Anniversary Special Edition (Obsession) by Mario Testino[123]
  • Welt am Sonntag Special Edition by Mario Testino[124]
  • German Vogue Special Edition (Blonde) by Mario Testino[125]
  • Somos Libres II, Rizzoli[126]

2013

  • Vogue China 100th Issue Special Edition by Mario Testino[127]
  • Vogue Brasil Special Edition (Body) by Mario Testino[128]
  • Vogue Paris Special Edition (Peru) by Mario Testino[129]

2012

  • Spanish Vogue Special Edition (Celebration) by Mario Testino[130]

2011

  • Bruma, 20 Hoxton Square Projects, London, UK[131]
  • Vogue Brasil 36th Anniversary Special Edition by Mario Testino[132]

2008

  • German Vogue Special Edition (Sex) by Mario Testino[133]

2007

  • Mario Testino: At Home, Yvon Lambert Gallery, New York, US[134]
  • Lima Peru, Damiani[135]

2006

  • Stern Portfolio, No. 53 (Mario Testino)[136]

2005

  • New Photography Selected by Mario Testino, Photo London, Burlington Gardens, London, UK[137]
  • Visionaire, No. 46 (Uncensored)[138]

2004

  • Instinctive: Latin American Artists Selected by Mario Testino, Andrea Rosen Gallery, New York, US[139]

2001

  • Dutch, No. 34 by Mario Testino[140]
  • Visionaire, No. 35 (Man)[141]
  • Pirelli Calendar 2001[142]

2000

  • Stern Portfolio, No. 20 (Mario Testino Party)[143]

1998

  • A Coincidence of the Arts by Mario Testino and Martin Amis, Coromandel Express[144]

1997

  • Dutch, No. 1 by Mario Testino[145]
  • Visionaire, No. 22 (Chic)[146]

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