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The term for gyaru was introduced in Japan by the American jeans company Lee, who introduced a new line of jeans to their brand Wrangler. When the women's jeans line 'GALS' was released in the 1970s; the term had been quickly used outside of its original branding and was adopted to describe the gyaru fashion by 1972.[5]Gyaru subculture was at its peak during the Heisei era. It had a large influence on Japanese fashion and its economy, its international economy, and its global soft power across the world through Cool Japan such as in Southeast Asia.[6][7][8] Multiple gyaru brands branched out before eventually declining due to financial instability and changes in its target demographic.[9][10][11] The term's usage peaked in the early 2000s and has since declined.[12][13][14]
This decline[15] has been attributed to shifts in the magazine industry,[16][17] the exaggeration of the style within its use and progression,[18] western media,[19][20] and government policies.[21] The meaning of the term gyaru was later applied to a slightly older demographic whose apparent lack of interest in work or marriage resulted in these women being regarded as childish or hussies.[22][23][24] Due to its past and its present connotation, it is now used almost interchangeably with kogyaru; as the name of kogyaru and its history are intertwined with the gyaru fashion subculture. Even though Japanese citizens have observed gyaru's birth, impact, and decline, citizens have stated to have never had the intention of imitating the American style of daily apparel or of wanting to resemble it.[25] But some Japanese disagree with this belief.[26]
The department store Shibuya 109, across the intersection from the Shibuya station in Tokyo, was a popular location for purchasing gyaru-style clothing and was where this fashion subculture was most visible. In the early 2000s, Shibuya 109 was considered the source of the newest and trendiest items or brands for gyaru, from popular and largely recognized gyaru brands to independent local designers within that department store. Although 109 began as the primary source of gyaru-style clothing, the style's increasing popularity saw brands branching out, having different brands of clothing being available at pop up stores, in conventions or through web shops that offered international shipping. Second-hand and vending of gyaru apparel and accessories also increased their availability.
Gyaru is a description of any gender, but is considered for women when referring to gyaru. Some groups and people follow a type of Japanese street fashion with many subcategories and substyles of which many types originated in the late 1970s.[27] It is a fashion subculture that is considered to be nonconformist or rebelling against Japanese social and aesthetic standards[28] at the time when women were expected to be housewives and fit Asian beauty standards of pale skin and dark hair. For Japanese women who saw those who participated in this fashion during its rise, they considered it a fashion style too racy and freewheeling; with some feeling it caused a ruckus, juvenile delinquency and frivolousness among teenage women.[29] Its popularity peaked in the 1990s and early 2000s. They are also known for partying and clubbing, being rather provocative, being flirtatious, and unwinding and having fun.
Popular recurring gyaru models, icons and idols during its peak were Tsubasa Masuwaka, Kumiko Funayama, Rie Matsuoka, Hikari Shiina, Kaoru Watanabe, Kanae Watanabe, Hiromi Endo, Aoi Mano, Satomi Yakuwa, Sayoko Ozaki, Yuka Obara, Rina Sakurai, Nana Suzuki, and twins Gura and Guri Yoshikawa.[30] Notable, recent gyaru gyaru include Yuki Kimura, known for her magazine and online alias as Yukipoyo and model Iwamoto Sayaka, known as Usatani Paisen. In Japan they are also both known for being models for Gravure from the books they have appeared in.
By the early 2010s gyaru fashion was typically characterized by tanned skin as it is considered a must in some substyles, they were also most often seen with highly elongated and decorated artificial nails. As for the appearance of a gyaru, dramatic makeup is also considered essential in this fashion subculture or depending on which substyle one partakes in. The makeup typically consists of black eye liner, fake eyelashes, and sometimes a white eye shadow or a touch of that color is applied to either the inner eye corners or to the outer corners near the lower lash line of the eyes. This is to make them appear larger or to contour them to elongate the eye of the sclera. In the later years of this style, with the popularity of South Korea during that time, the style would see the use of the South Korean makeup technique of increasing or creating a larger appearance of the under eye by applying makeup, such as highlighting the under eye and contouring the eye crease to make the eye bag appear prominent; this is known as Korean: 애교살; RR: aegyosal. This should not be confused with periorbital puffiness, even though both appear similar; one is a health condition while the other is done with makeup or by the use of plastic surgery such as botox. Also contouring different parts of the face to change facial features and highlighting the nose for a slimming effect is often done. Colored contacts are often seen especially circle lenses to change eye color from a distance and also to make their eyes appear larger with the extreme diameter of these lenses.
Hairstyling, such as hair texture, color or styling, often differs within the substyles. Heavily bleached or dyed hair is most often seen; shades ranged from dark brown to lighter shades of brown to multiple shades of red or multiple shades of blonde. Hair is mostly styled either by curling it with a curling iron or having straight hair done by the use of a hair straightener. Hair may be curled to create extra volume and heavily crimped up. The hair is crimped differently than in the West, this hair styling was called スジ盛り (sujimori); in English it means assorted streaks. This styling is named so, not only because of its enormous volume of hair, the usage of hair extension to achieve this look or even its use of an assortment of wigs to create this hairstyle. But this name comes from these streaks of hair that are made apparent by being held by gel. Since after the curling and crimping; the gel would be used to keep hair streaks visible and present throughout the day.
Apparel for gyaru fashion also varies by substyle and retail store; this choice of brands can denote which substyle one participates in. Japanese street fashionbrands or western fast fashion brands with general gyaru aesthetics indicated one's substyle depending on their appearance in an outfit. Although some bought western luxury brands or even haute couture brands, but most gravitated toward Japanese brands, depending on their style. Most of the apparel originated from Shibuya 109. A full outfit of only designer brands is not considered completely gyaru unless one tries for a specific substyle. Yet, even those who participate in the substyle of wearing designer items have different brands, regardless of whether the brands are Western or Japanese. They would generally mix different brands to create a gyaru look.
A gyaru, probably an agejō gyaru wearing MA*RS in 2007
Gyaru is a spectrum style. Its substyles vary by apparel and gender. The style as a whole is referred to as Gyaru kei (Japanese: ギャル系); in Japanese or in romaji (gyaru kei). It consists of the most common way to name someone who is in gyaru style. As gyaru is not a singular style, it is an umbrella term for the phenomenon. The Japanese word for 系 (kei) translates to the English word "type"; meaning its usage refers to the fact that this fashion has various subcategories and sub styles that it is indeed akin to a type or system of styles, in terms of fashion.
The most common styles of gyaru are:
アゲ嬢 Japanese pronunciation: [aꜜɡeʑoɯː] (Agejō): a style that was highly active, agejō was mostly inspired by, and its aesthetic referenced in, the magazine Koakuma Ageha. It is a foxy, ladylike, and mature style. It is generally worn by, but not exclusively by, a hostess. The intention is to be flawlessly glamorous and desirable. The agejō style emphasises the eyes, often enlarging and enhancing them with circle lenses and several sets of false eyelashes in an alluring way. The hair is always styled in an updo, resembling hime gyaru, with curls or hair that is crimped in the sujimori hair style, and sometimes includes extensions and wigs. It is common for those participating in the agejō style to simultaneously wear multiple wigs. The agejō style is similar to hime gyaru, except for being more skimpy and with the intention to be classy. Japanese fashion brands most recognized in this substyle are DaTuRa, Jesus Diamante, La Parfait, MA*RS and Princess Melody.
Shibuya 109 COCO*LULU store staff wearing amekaji style
アメカジ Japanese pronunciation: [amʲeꜜkadʑi] (Amekaji): A style inspired by American culture; its name can be directly translated to "American casual". It is usually bright, fun, flamboyant and multi-colored. Inspired by fictionalized images of America, the clothes are generally looser than most of the other styles. They usually have many overlapping layers. It mostly involves sweaters, bomber jackets from the early 2000s and coats such as Letterman jackets. In summer they would wear t-shirts, shorts, jeans, overalls and cargo pants. Also, they would sometimes wear their boyfriends' clothing as there was a male counterpart to the brand COCO*LULU, which is one of the staple brands for this style. Shoes were mostly tennis shoes, sneakers, uggs or engineer boots. Japanese fashion brands most recognized in this substyle are ANAP, COCO*LULU, Roco nails and Wakatsuki Chinatsu.
B-ギャル (B-gyaru):[31][32][33][34] A gyaru style,[35] consisting of not only being gyaru but also rejecting the Japanese standards of beauty to instead become black.[36] The letter B in this substyle directly refers to the word black. This style is synonymous with the gyaru store Baby Shoop. But even as a gyaru substyle it is now considered objectionable and even an appropriation of Black culture[37][38][39][40] just as rasuta gyaru and even chola gyaru. Some or most of the westerngyaru participants of this fashion do not see the use of substyles such as ganguro or its other extreme substyle, that are derived from it but do have a distaste for this substyle in particular and express their distaste and anger on social networking services. This substyle has also been stated to be a joke in egg magazine and was expressing that this was not a serious style of gyaru to even gyaru participants despising other gyaru doing this style.[41]
Japanese gyaru in 2006
ガングロ (Ganguro):[42][43][44] A gyaru with artificially deep tanned skin and bleached hair, and makeup which tended to use white around the eyes and on the lips, and darker shades of color are sometimes seen on the eyes of ganguro. But white is the most often used eyeshadow for this substyle. Also, decorations such as glitter or flowers, such as hibiscus flower stickers, are added under the eyes. This style was popular in the late 1990s and early 2000s. The name ganguro is the mix of both the Japanese words 顔 (Kao) and 黒 (Kuro), these Kanji translate to the words face and black but the term that gyaru use for this substyle is written in Katakana.
ギャルセレブー Japanese pronunciation: [ɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝseːɾʲeːbʲɯꜜ] (Gyaru serebū):[45] This substyle is referred to in English as gyaru celebrity or rather used as the shortened version of that word; in Japanese being written as セレブ (serebu). It specifically targets the concept of either being an actual celebrity in the gyaru style or to achieve that aesthetic to the point of becoming someone with celebrity status by achieving this through this substyle.Ayumi Hamasaki being photographed by paparazzi in 2007 For most participants in this particular substyle, they could only first dream of living this substyle but have successfully achieved this feat through dedication, persistence and effort. It is probably one of the most expensive substyles to maintain if one would try to replicate it. This style at first might resemble onee gyaru but when looking not only at which apparel pieces are being used; from which these brands that are far above the average price of gyaru brands from 109. Also the general look that they would not be regarded as gyaru by passersby on the street in Japan unless the fake eyelashes were visible; due to price of apparel and confidence in their appearance by wearing these luxury items. These apparel pieces from clothes, accessories, shoes to even flip phones in order to be based on that time period are needed to achieve the celebrity appearance. Those who participated and contributed in this substyle have been others who started mostly without a celebrity status or any sort of exponential media recognition in Japan. What these gyaru tried to replicate the whole look of a celebrity during the Heisei era or 1990s and 2000s; these celebrities were generally chosen for their luxury clothing choices which was always of a 'McBling'[46][47][48] aesthetic at the time. Luxury and haute couture brands are a must; fast fashion, poorly made apparel, inauthentic luxury branded apparel to accessories or second-hand pieces do not suffice. Unless these items are from an actual luxury or haute couture brand that were authenticated but then only by that standard; otherwise new and on trend haute couture fashion is a must. These brands do not have to be Japanese-owned or Japanese-based brands; most of these brands are actually western brands such as: Juicy Couture, Baby Phat, Betsey Johnson, Von Dutch, Ed Hardy, Chanel, Moschino, Michael Kors, Versace, Fendi, Louboutin, Balenciaga, Coach, Burberry, Gucci and even Givenchy when Alexander McQueen was the head designer and the same can be said for Dior especially when John Galliano was head designer. These brands were not a staple of gyaru fashion but were seen in other substyles such as onee gyaru or kogyaru but sparsely and not of this quantity in a single outfit. Most of its inspirations came from either Japanese gyaru celebrities such as Ayumi Hamasaki, Koda Kumi, Namie Amuro, egg magazine model Hiromi Endo and more recently Emiri Aizawa or Tsubasa Masuwaka aesthetically when she is going to Gucci's fashion events. Even western celebrities had a much larger influence such as: Paris Hilton, Nicole Richie, Britney Spears, Gwen Stefani, Christina Aguilera, Pamela Anderson, Lindsay Lohan, Victoria Beckham, Fergie, Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé, Aaliyah, Lil' Kim and Foxy Brown.[49][50]
ギャルママ Japanese pronunciation: [ɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝmʲamʲa] (Gyaru mama):[51] Teenage gyaru or women who continued with this style even after having children. BBC News states: 'Gal mama are young mothers who refuse to shed their gal-ness'.[52][53] They also would clothe their children in the same style, meaning a boy would look like a gyaru-o while girls would look like a gyaru, but the style would depend on the mother's personal choice of style or which subculture she belonged to. For example, Aki, a gyaru leader of her own gyarusa named 'Brillant Lab' reveals how these mothers dressed and how they chose their children's outfits, hair and hair color to correspond to their mother's outfit. In other words, the child became a gyaru mama's accessory. It is also telling when the leader of this gyarusa is a single mother which is generally how most of these gyaru mothers end up or are after pregnancy.[54][55] These mothers might parent differently than most in Japan; their parenting style can be quite contemporary for the Japanese societal norms, perceptions and it has been said that it is less stressful for their children.[56]
ギャル男 Japanese pronunciation: [ɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝoː] (Gyaru-o):[57] A male gyaru. Typically, gyaru-o have a similar style to gyaru, including high-volume styled hair, similar fashion, and tanned skin.[58] Also written in Japanese as ギャルオ (gyaruo); as the Kanji in front of gyaru is the Japanese word for man, 男 (otoko).
Himena Ousaki, a hime gyaru influencer, taken on May 26, 2012
姫ギャル Japanese pronunciation: [çmeɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝ] (Hime gyaru):[59] also known as 姫系 (hime kei), is one of the more over the top and one of the most expensive styles of dress of any category since it is considered essential to buy brand names such as: MA*RS, Jesus Diamante, La Parfait or Princess Melody. The substyle hime gyaru is largely based on the Rococo era, as the Japanese word 姫 (hime) which in English is the word for lit.'princess'. Gyaru who wear this style often wear dresses or skirts in pink or other pastel colors with many laces and bows. Rose patterns, rosettes, pearls, and crown motifs are also common. Headpieces range from large bow clips with pearls to headbands with a rose accent, while the hair is either bleached in a specific color, crimped in a bouffant at the top and curled or wigs/extension are worn to create that スジ盛り or (sujimori)-styled hair. This make-up style has even more exaggerated eyes than the typical gyaru. Hime gyaru includes not only clothes, but many girls see it as a way of life and make or buy custom-made decor for their homes. The style blossomed in the early 2000s but has since declined or turned more casual; this version is referred to as hime kaji, but this style mostly uses the Japanese fashion brand Liz Lisa whose appearance and clothes are more casual than hime gyaru. Hime gyaru participants rather use the obsolete brands such as Princess Melody, La Parfait or Jesus Diamante. Though this substyle currently persists in some fashion groups or in their circles. Not to be confused with Japanese street fashion of Lolita fashion.
姫カジ (Hime kaji): The toned down version of the hime gyaru style. As stated above, it is referred as hime kaji due to being not only a toned down version of this pre-existing style but the Japanese term カジ (kaji) is a shortened version of the word "casual" in Japanese Katakana. There is an obvious focus on comfort, cuteness and being effortless. This is why this style and roma gyaru are most often lumped and mistaken together. Even today they are confused with the fashion of Cottagecore. The hair styles often resemble roma gyarus in the sense of them having curled hair which can be long or short. The hair would be often worn down and the color would mostly be from completely bleached blonde to lighter shades of brown. Clothingwise, this style would be on the more comfortable end of the gyaru spectrum but still remaining as flattering as gyaru could be. Common motifs are roses and hearts and patterns that are most often seen are ginghams, florals and plaid. Colors most often used would be pink and most outfits which were or are using this style would always feature something in a pink shade. As for the relation with hime gyaru there are fewer accessories present than that style and nails are still somewhat long but not as ostentatiously decorated as hime gyaru. But if they were, they would not be as excessive as hime gyaru. The style now is most ubiquitous with the use of the fashion brand Liz Lisa; rather than any other brand which had the similar feel such as Ank Rouge, TraLaLa or Titty&Co.
女子高校ギャル (Joshi kōkō gyaru):[60]Joshi kōkō gyaru, also known as high school gyaru, are best known as the previous iteration of kogyaru.
コギャル (Kogyaru):[61][62][63] The term generally defines presentday gyarus who dress in this manner; they wear Japanese high-school student uniforms to represent the past kogyaru who wore them. These uniforms would resemble them but with slight alterations such as color or presentation of the garment. Or they would be an exact replica of an actual high school uniform which could be purchased at a burusera. But the term itself did not first start as a pass time to pretend or dress as a high school student but from actual female Japanese high school students in the late 1980s and early 1990s, around the Heisei era; they wore this style during or after school sessions.[64][65] They would shorten their skirts from their high school uniform protocol length to give them a miniskirt appearance and length and wear loose socks. These socks are from an American brand, E.G. Smith, the originators of these socks.[66][67] That made them longer and appear larger by loosening them to the point of almost arriving at the level of their shoes. They also had dyed hair, accessorized their high school bags with danglers or mixed educational material with cosmetic products and a portable mirror. Although some of these were prohibited in Japanese high schools, some would wear it only after school but others would do it even in school and be warned for doing so. Namie Amuro is said to be not only the one who popularized the tanned appearance, but also as having started the kogyaru trend during the Heisei era.[68][69] The term kogyaru is derived from the mixing of the Japanese word 子 (ko) which means child in English and the word gyaru[70][71] It is noteworthy that due to the Japanese educational system's regulations on uniforms, the uniforms varied by school, indicating higher standards in terms of grades or wealth. This mattered in kogyaru fashion.[72] The term of kogyaru is closely related to 女子高校生 (joshi kōkōsei) or in English would be directly translated to "female high school student". It uses the word 女子 (joshi) which is girl and 高校生 (kōkōsei) highschooler in English. The importance of these two words is that often on social network servicesKanji would be abbreviated to "JK" because the first letters used in these Kanji are the letters J and K. In this case, these letters combined are not used to convey or be internet speech to refer to joking but is a direct abbreviation for the word joshi kōkōsei. This subculture of kogyaru fashion is closely related to JK business and compensated dating or enjo kōsai.[73][74]
黒ギャル (Kuro gyaru): Kurogyaru is the extreme exaggeration of gyaru fashion. The Black Diamond gyarusa or ブラックダイヤモンド are known for having this style. The words kuro are made together by the numbers just as shirogyaru being 46 as these make kyuroku as in 96. In Japanese being 九六.
マンバ (Manba):[75]Manba is even darker than yamanba, but also wilder than yamanba. Manba would wear sexy outfits from very short to very long dresses, or shorts to long skirts. Accessories (such as bangles, beads, etc.) would also include the motif of flowers such as leis or hibiscus, and these patterns would appear on their clothes. Colorful clothing was considered essential. They would sometimes wear sweatshirts, pants, and leg warmers. Disney characters made an appearance as a choice of fashion apparel such as characters from Lilo & Stitch and also characters from the Mickey Mouse franchise. The white lips remained and white eye shadows were applied. A manbas eye shadow can also be placed on a different place around the eyes. The amount of eye shadow could vary greatly. Some manbas also used a different eye shadow color on their eyelids. The use of glitter was acceptable as well. Stickers were no longer used under the eyes, instead, they were replaced by rhinestones (however they did not necessarily put them on). Common hairstyles featured big hair, bouffant, high ponytails with hair partly down, synthetic dreads, ribbons braided in, teased, side swept, fringe, braids, curled, simply straight, or very colorful. Popular hair accessories included leis and other types of flowers/bows, straw cowboy hats, or straw hats. Flip flops, sandals, platform sandals, slippers, crocs, boots or leg warmers could also be worn.
Two manbas in 2006
お姉ギャル (Onee gyaru): The name of this substyle refers to the older sister of gyaru as a substyle derives from Japanese word that is used to describe an older sister. お姉 (onee); translating only its beginning will give an exact translation of these two words for lit.'sister' in English. The substyle is named after its participants, who are usually older gyaru or have matured from their style but still want to remain a gyaru. They have adapted their previous style to their age, from their more alluring appearance to the apparel they wear day to day; they are referred are the mature substyle of gyaru.
悪羅悪羅ギャル (Ora ora gyaru):[76][77] The style of ora ora gyaru is one that is most often compared to or confused with ane gyaru due to the fact that both styles were brought to the Japanese public's eye attention through the bōsōzoku, yankī and Japanese biker gang culture with gyaru makeup and style. The gyaru magazine of choice is Soul Sister. This style can be understood by its style choice of apparel, such as track suits, greater use of denim and a generally more masculine look. The style is also known as オラオラギャル (ora ora gyaru) and 悪羅系 (ora kei). These girls were often seen driving as a couple, were or are mechanics, and sometimes ride bikes. They tend to have tattoos and piercings. This is not only done to look rebellious but the style caters to girls who live on the edge.
ロマギャル (Roma gyaru): Roma gyaru come from two words: romantic and gyaru. The aesthetic is commonly mistaken for Cottagecore due to its use of colors, patterns and motifs. It has many similarities today in the style hime kaji but instead is considered a style of its own. The colors are more subtle and muted, patterns range from floral to gingham and sometimes polka dots. The style is considered one of the more relaxed and accessible styles of gyaru. It is also one of the more 'casual' gyaru substyles of this fashion. The style consisted of having hair color ranging from darker browns to strawberry blonde tones. The hair was often curled, wispy or had fly away hairs but retained the constrained gyaru hairstyles or was simply worn down but slightly curled at the ends. The makeup is considered too simple for the most experienced gyaru; it is less likely to use overtly longer nails or false lashes. As mentioned earlier, the nails are a plain color that matches the clothing worn or are French manicured. Motifs included fruit, mostly strawberries, cherries or when going towards a different primary color such as blue, blueberries. Textile prints are mostly ginghams, polka dots, florals and sometimes plaids. Other fabrics include lace on some apparel pieces but less prevalent than in the hime gyaru style. In terms of accessories boots with heels which are mostly knee-high length, are most often seen and worn in this style.
白ギャル (Shiro gyaru): This substyle is not what it appears to those unfamiliar with gyaru. Only thinking that gyaru is depicted by the ganguro substyle and its subcategories, mistakenly assuming that all participants have tanned skin is gyaru. Shiro gyaru is an example of this: one who would participate gyaru would not tan their skin and would most likely try to achieve a clear complexion to return to the Japanese tradition and standard look of bihaku. Using the Japanese Kanji 白 written in romaji as (shiro) and is the English word for lit.'white'. This gyaru substyle is generally a way to denote participants of the gyaru substyle who do not sport a tan. They still usually wear a number of different substyles. This substyle was most often seen in the early 2010s. Mostly sweeter styles and punkish styles of appareal and gyaru fashion substyles would be seen with this skintone. This was problematic for previous participants in gyaru substyles such as ganguro who already have or had artificially tanned skin: they resorted to bleaching their skin to achieve this look. Tanning and bleaching the skin are dangerous.[78] The word for shiro is also abbreviated to the numbers 46, as in four for shi as in 四 and six for 六 roku, making for the sound shiro.
ツヨメギャル (Tsuyome gyaru): Tsuyome gyaru or 強めギャル is a form of gyaru derived from another form of gyaru such as ane gyaruora ora gyaru and kuro gyaru. The term comes from the word strength in Japanese, 強 because this style is based on this term and has a masculine empowering look and less feminine appeal towards men.
ヤマンバ (Yamanba):[79] An exaggerated style characterized by an extremely dark artificial tan, messy bleached-white hair, and white makeup. Yamanba is said to be inspired by the Japanese yōkaiYama-uba (山姥) lit.'mountain witch woman', an unkempt old woman with dark skin, white hair, and a dirty, unkempt appearance, who would disguise herself as a beautiful young woman to lure male victims. Like ganguro, the style was often considered to be a joke and deliberately unattractive, with some yamanba saying they liked the trend "because it looked stupid."[80]Yamanba fashion attracted a reputation as being "unclean" or delinquent.[81]
Micro styles of gyaru are styles which are less common, have declined in popularity or have become obsolete.
姉ギャル (Ane gyaru): Ane gyaru is a tougher version of onee gyaru, and is more mature and virile, yet effeminate for the gyaru subculture.
バンバ (Banba): Banba is a lighter form of manba. They wear less white makeup than manba, use more feminine and glittery makeup and have less colorful hair, but neon-colored hair can be seen at times. Banbas wear extreme types of false eyelashes and use more dolly-colored contact lenses. Banba's also often wear darker colors than manbas and dress in club wear or feminine outfits. They are toned down compared to their predecessors ganguro, manba and yamanba but are still connected to those styles.
ビビンバ (Bibinba): This look usually includes much gold and jewelry. It is similar to B-gyaru. As stated above, egg magazine did not consider this a serious style or even a style at all, but more of a joke. This might be the case since the name of this substyle might refer to the Italian word 'bimbo', which is derogatorily applied to women in English.
ボヘミアンギャル (Bohemian gyaru): A gyaru substyle which is rarely worn and is considered less of an actual style and more of a seasonal outfit for those who participate in broader gyaru fashion. It is less of a substyle restrained by rules, being mostly worn in the spring and summer seasons or for those that live in warmer climates. Since the clothing pieces are of a lighter textile, only a jacket is used for layering, and woven leather accessories such as a belt and shoes are more often seen than in other styles. Sandals are often used in this style. Unlike most of the other substyles which use more apparel that easily hold warmth, such as apparel with thicker textile or woollen materials and multiple layers of clothes for one outfit, this style is also denoted by its use of airy, denim, flower-patterned, tie-dyed and nomadic textile motifs in most of its outfits. Most apparel pieces are either maxi-dresses or knee-length dresses. The style seems inspired by late 1960s hippie fashion and takes its name from the Bohemian style of fashion.
チョーラギャル (Chola gyaru): Just as the styles of B-gyaru, rasuta gyaru, bibinba and even ganguro are or can be somewhat frowned upon by most people who have the actual respective origin of these styles or those who suffered through what these styles can represent to the actual person of that ethnicity; such as rasuta gyaru being so heavily influenced by the appearance of Rastafari; the question remains, is it appropriation or appreciation of another countries culture? For chola-gyaru the same can be said for its substyle, as this comes from the Chicano culture that even in its own history has connotations of its own; the book Comentarios Reales de los Incas has a quote that describes, evokes, shows how the actual word came to be and how it was utilized then in 1609: 'The child of a Black male and an Indian female, or of an Indian male and Black female, they call mullato and mullata. The children of these they call cholos. Cholo is a word from the Windward Islands. It means dog, not of the purebred variety, but of very disreputable origin; and the Spaniards use it for insult and vituperation.'[82][83] The style itself takes enormous influence from Chicano as many chola-gyaru wear apparel clothes that are more often than not the same as Chicano apparel or street wear. A combination of tartans, flannels, oversized t-shirts and tank tops. Accessorized with bandanas, a baseball cap, dark sunglasses, gold chains and even tattoos; which still in present-day Japan is still considered a taboo due to its past connotations. Baggy jeans are a must. There is also a Japanese music artist who exemplifies both gyaru and Chicana culture, MoNa.[84][85] She has been interviewed and documented in the series from Refinery29: Style out there and also by The New York Times YouTube channel.[86][87]
ギャル電 (Gyaru den): a style of gyaru consisting of reviving gyaru through technology. It takes aspects of the gyaru fashion substyle and then makes use of technology as a way to revamp the style. The creators of this style have created all of their items themselves, which can be LED lights or synthesizers which are used on accessories such as necklaces, loose socks which are those mostly seen on kogyarus. They would create new and different apparel pieces from the regular gyaru clothing pieces since they are mixed with technological enhancements. The creators of this fashion substyle are both Kyoko from Japan and Mao from Thailand, who immigrated to Japan, and has a degree in engineering.[88][89]
ゴシックギャル (Goshikku gyaru): This substyle in gyaru is most often confused with the substyle rokku gyaru, as they share a similar look and use the same apparel style or motifs at first glance. However, goshikku gyaru draws from Gothic fashion as its main inspiration. This substyle does not require the participant to tan themselves, unlike most of the other gyaru substyles. The makeup retains the same over exaggerated and dramatic false eyelash appearance but the makeup colors are more in line with Gothic fashion, as the colors are darker or even black, and white is more predominant than in the other substyles. The fashion motifs and pieces are generally studded, leather, ripped denim, mesh or fishnet apparel pieces with the most prominent apparel colors being black, white, red, purple and any color used in actual Gothic fashion.
ハーディギャル (Haady gyaru):[90] To understand the substyle haady gyaru, one must first understand its name's origin. The Japanese word 派手 or written in romaji as (hade) which in English can translate to either "flashy" or "vulgar". This substyle is the epitome of this: by its name alone this can be understood. The difference of spelling is simply for youth factor, by accentuating the vowels and adding the letter 'Y' to also not be too obvious about it. Examples of this gyaru fashion substyle resemble the work of artist Lisa Frank due to their use of motifs and color, with bright neon colors from across the entire spectrum. Leopard, cheetah, zebra or anything in printed patterns to early 1990s to 2000s hip hop-inspired fashion such has 'McBling'.[91] Clothing shape varies from very loose fitting to tight but the colors are never toned down. In terms of makeup, this gyaru substyle and the substyles that range from ganguro to further are the only ones with the use of more pop in terms of color while most gyaru substyles use either muted to seemingly girly colors. Most of these would be pastel colors, such as pastel pink. Creation of this gyaru substyle has been credited to the egg model Kaoru Watanabe as she not only created it but also has her own brand of this fashion, JSG, the acronym for Japanese Super Girl.
異色肌ギャル (Ishoku hada gyaru):[92][93] Is a gyaru style that takes ganguro to an even higher level than manba or yamanba. Instead of someone making their skin twice as dark as their actual skin color, it involves the use of face paint to seem as if the participant had physically dipped themselves in a colorful paint, to resemble an extraterrestrial, but with the same essential style of gyaru makeup. This micro-style can be seemingly placed as a form of body art. The translation of this substyle is unique skin gyaru in English. The creator of this style, Miyako Akane states in an Arte interview:[94] 'I decided to create this style since the fact that westerns have different hair and skin colors compared to the stereotypical Japanese features of pale clear skin and black hair, so when we want to do this we have to do something drastic. So, by changing our skin color or painting it we get to liberate ourselves; it is like a therapy from makeup, we are allowed to choose our hair color and skin color'. She also states that 'There are many mixed marriage children that are subject to a number of prejudices because of their skin color or their hair color; that is why I want to help by saying loud and strong that everyone is allowed to be whom they want to be.' She also stated in an online interview[95] that: 'I decided to create this style based upon by many things apart from gyaru, but also Harajuku fashion and of course the idea of extraterrestrials; of course it is かわいいギャル (kawaii gyaru).' In a Kotaku interview[96] she stated that she has 'longed for the interesting skin tones seen in video-games, anime, and movies'. This gyaru substyle has been promoted in egg magazine.
キグルミン (Kigurumin): Kigurumin is a micro-style of gyaru or rather it is derived from the manba substyle. These gyaru wear the kigurumi outfits as apparel or the mascot apparel of Japan but still apply and wear the same makeup and have tanned skin as the participants of manba. The name could also be seen as 着ぐるみギャル (ki-gurumi gyaru).
モードギャル (Mode gyaru): Mode gyaru is the use of gyaru that tries to look seductive with less expansive materials.
ラスタギャル (Rasuta gyaru): Rasuta gyaru is separate from B-gyaru and bibinba but it is considered similar due to the heavy influence of African culture. Especially rasuta gyaru would most often take influence of Rastafari culture; even though it would mostly mimic the appearance of a Rastafari, which effectively results in imitation rather than culture appreciation. Rasuta gyaru is most often characterized by its use of the Jamaican flag as an accessory, leisure wear to sport clothing sporting a Cannabis plant symbol or Rastafari colors, handbags made of straw or anything that would resemble with the idea of what Rastafari would wear. Colors would be predominantly green, yellow and red as in the Jamaican Rastafari flag. The hair resembles B-gyarus; meaning going from extensions to cornrows, micro-braids except dreadlocks, an afro and dreads would rarely appear in the B-gyarus hair choices. Both styles futilely attempt to replicate these hairstyles. Also B-gyarus rarely wear a Cannabis symbol in their accessories. The recurring colors of the Jamaican Rastafari flag would also be often seen in the hair of rasuta gyaru as well. Bob Marley provokes interest in this crowd.
ロックギャル (Rokku gyaru): Rokku gyaru is the punk version of gyaru but without the opposition to fascism as in punk.
ロマンバ (Romanba):[97] The name of romanba derives from the same as roma gyaru; both are based around romantic overtones and aesthetics, but romanba keeps the manba makeup, the deep tan, style and aesthetic to a great effect, adding a romantic aspect to their apparel. Their choice of apparel pieces vary and manba, as they would replace the colors worn with dolly pastels, pink lace and sundresses that are frilled. Romanbagyarus instead of accessorizing with Lilo & Stitch, they instead accessorise mostly with characters from Disney's The Aristocats with the character Marie often used as a motif. The primary Romanba fashion brands are Pinky Girls and Liz Lisa. Tanning is achieved mainly through make-up and deep-colored tanning lotions or bronzer; sunbeds are not used in as they try to keep their complexion deep but not darker than intended. They appreciate more toned down things in life than just clubbing.
サイケギャル (Saike gyaru): Saike gyaru or psychedelic gyaru; it is a fashion substyle of gyaru meant to emulate Bohemian style fashion and 60s hippie fashion but without implementation of the peace movement of the hippies during the 1960s in the United States of America during the Vietnam war.
キャバ嬢 (Kyabajō):[98][99] The style kyabajō is similar to agejo as it has been inspired since the publication of koakuma ageha, which enticed and engrossed women to work in Kabukichō as a hostess or a kyabajō. They dress in a particular style that makes them mostly wear dresses that are revealing but said to be less, from the Japanese brand MA*RS or from the Jesus Diamante. As stated before, this style resembles agejo as the participants have the same attire and also have long fake decorative nails. An exponent is a gyaru now known by her title 元No.1キャバ嬢 (Moto nanbā 1 kyabajō) or Former No.1 Miss kyabajō; Emiri Aizawa (愛沢えみり).[100][101][102][103][104]
孫ギャル (Mago gyaru): Mago gyaru is used to define middle schoolers who follow gyaru or kogyaru fashion. The phrase literally translates to "grandchild gyaru".[105] It is sometimes referred to as 中学校ギャル (chūgakkō gyaru, lit.'junior high school gyaru').[106]
ネオギャル (Neo gyaru):[107][108][109][110][111][112] This name was coined for gyaru who wanted to revitalize the style during the 2010s during its decline. By the time the style reached popularity and people had noticed its existence, the community of gyaru reacted to it differently than expected; what came was an antiquated, radical and older or more fanatical gyaru accustomed to seeing gyaru in a different ideal and some have even shunned the style. This reaction can also be connected with the creator of the style and magazine for this substyle neo gyaru being the known as #N. This substyle and magazine have received backlash due to use of black, Latino and Hindu culture and culturally exclusive accessories such as the Bindi.[113] Yet Alisa Ueno herself has stated in an interview on her own blog that herself, her own brand FIG&VIPER and the style she is representing within that brand have nothing to do with the gyaru subculture or fashion as a whole and the style was a probable misconception from magazines and Japanese television programs implying that it was.[114][115] Even though she participated in the gyaru subculture when she was young, as a model, she has stated in her own blog, 'The fashion has nothing to do with her brand.'[116] But those who were wearing said fashion were not using the same fashion style as before or in its traditional form as a substyle; from its apparel to their makeup. Previous, older and newcomers to the gyaru fashion substyle perceived it as not following the traditional gyaru look or values of the gyaru subculture. To them it seemed more western or even resembling grunge wear[117] even though the style may resemble SeaPunk more than the actual grunge fashion it is said to resemble. The makeup was also considerably darker in terms of lipstick and the eyeshadow using more metallic or holographic textures and colors compared to earlier styles of gyaru and their use of makeup which did not use these textures.
清楚ギャル (Seiso gyaru):[118][119] This substyle was coined during the decline of gyaru subculture and new gyaru looks during the 2010s. The naming of this substyle derives from the Japanese word 清楚 (seiso) which in English can be translated as 'neat', 'polished' and 'clean'. This style is also interchangeable with shiro gyaru as they were both formed through the resurgence of the Japanese bihaku within the gyaru subculture.
Often referred to as foreigngyaru or westerngyaru and online as 外人ギャル (gaijin gyaru). Women and even men outside Japan who participate in gyaru; "western" gyaru also includes countries outside of the West, such as the Middle East. This includes women who have gravitated towards this fashion by going or doing gyaru and its substyles and men who gravitate to gyaru-o. Westerngyaru or gaijin gyaru created their own communities or groups and forums. They also had lists of tutorials or YouTube playlists to help beginners to gyaru with their application of makeup and how to create the appropriate hairstyles. Gyaru became popular outside of Japan due to the help of bookstores selling gyaru magazines in western countries and social media networks also helped it expand abroad.
That is not to say that during its popularity online in the past and even now that there is only positivity within its community.
Outside of Japan, there are websites critical of western gyaru participants. These websites ridicule people's looks or appearance by giving them advice on how to better wear the style. A documentary has been made on YouTube, about three different Japanese street fashion styles and three participants and the negative reactions they received.[120] Even so, in 2011, these western or gaijin gyaru held their first event, the Gaijin Gyaru Awards which was created by an English gaijin gyaru with the online username Lhouraii Li. It was done to spread awareness of this style and to bring positivity back into the westerngaijin gyaru community.[121][122] These events were done with Lhouraii Li and they were mostly done online. They were ended in 2014 by the creator of the event, Lhouraii Li, due to online backlash against her online award show. There would not be another contest until 2016 where they were made into an event in the Netherlands and were broadcast via livestream.[123] Three years would pass until this community award ceremony would be brought back in 2019 in the United Kingdom,[124] just as in 2016 this was an in-person event and was only made into a live broadcast online for those not able to join the event. These contests were made so that one could vote for contestants within categories or subcategories of this fashion and gain Internet attention from peers by winning within a category.
During the early 2000s, most animeconventions saw a glorification of gyaru and gaijin gyaru presence as they held gatherings, meetings or events usually organized by their gyarusā and peers in these conventions in their country or where the actual gathering would be held. International and national meetings among members of the gaijin gyaru community were held on an almost annual basis.[125][126]
As of late 2018 to early 2019 there was an increase in activity for the gaijin gyaru community caused by the comeback of egg magazine as well as a resurgence of gyaru in Japan.[127] This has affected the gaijin gyaru community as well, as a new gaijin gyaru magazine, "Papillon", was published beginning in October 2019.[128] The foreign magazine Gyaru-go also made a comeback.
In 2021, the gaijin gyaru magazine 'GAL VIP' had an article written about their magazines by a Japanese website; it is the oldest gaijin gyaru magazines addressed and not the latest.[129] Also in August 2021 a six-minute documentary on western gyaru or gaijin gyaru has discussed the substyle of manba on YouTube.
As stated before, the gaijin gyaru magazine Papillon was published in 2019, but there were two predecessors: Gyaru-go who only published on April 12, 2016, and Gal-VIP on September 1, 2012. They are both online magazines while Papillon has online and purchasable issues.
In 2012 the gyaru model Jun Komori committed fraud and helped with said fraud on an online auction website in Japan. She worked with Ryusuge Suzuki, who was the penny orders section owner of the 'World Auction' website in Japan. She had to close her official web blog due to the backlash.[203][204]
In 2016, a gaijin gyaru[205] from Canada of Chinese background who is known by her online aliases "Sheina" and "Ningyosama"[206] was arrested and sent home due to her actions to procure a residency permit for extending her stay in Japan. Knowing her travel visa for Japan had expired, she had thought that marrying someone she knew would enable her to stay longer. She worked as masseuse, a kyabakura and a fuzoku or a prostitute. But this is considered a breach of promise in marriage as she and her then partner were both in agreement to marry for money (700,000 yen as initial payment to him) and residency.[207] At the same time this news was released, varying news outlets that interviewed her were lied to, telling her side of the arrest story and skewing her reasons; this is called a providing a false statement to the law instead of following the legal information retrieval law. Her deception also disappointed enthusiasts of Japanese styles such as lolita fashion and cosplayers. She was later deported from Japan for these actions.[208][209][210][211]
In 2014 a gyarusā was arrested due to multiple cases of rape to gang rape happening within its gyarusā[212] and this would not be the last of these malicious gyarusā; in 2019 another was found with the same criminal delicts acted towards the members of their group.[213]
In 2021, egg magazine created a video on their official YouTube channel by making a prank video and using domestic violence as the joke.[214] They used makeup to create fake wounds or damage that can be created from the domestic violence and by the end of the video were laughing at their prank video. All of the participants, models and the egg magazine model herself participated in the creation of the video, the decision to make it or complied in the creation of the video. The video shows the participants and models not taking domestic violence seriously. The date of the video's release was on International Women's Day as well as Women's History Month, which attracted even more criticism.[215]
オヤジギャル (Oyaji gyaru):[216][217][218] is not a style,[219] rather it is a title that gyaru have garnered themselves over the years because of their manner of showing and acting out towards others on the street. Especially when this title has been given by the Japanese population when asked in a survey of the most used words of the decades or buzzwords rather which are used on a daily basis. Because of their rudeness towards others, masculine character: such as drinking beer, smoking in public places, swearing, and overtly sexual manner of dress.[220]Oyaji gyaru lit.'old man gyaru' and is used as slang to describe the most revolting gyaru.
A regular pastime for gyaru is パラパラ (parapara), a dance performed mostly with hands and legs going back and forth from left to right. When performed in a group, everyone should be evidently synchronized. It is mostly danced with Eurobeat music or covers of other songs but with the aforementioned Eurobeat remix. Such a remix is for example songs from Japanese singer ICHIDAI being a famously remixed into eurobeat and danced to.
One of the most famous parapara songs and its tagline, 'GET WILD & BE SEXY,' is synonymous with gyaru culture and was a famous eurobeat song of the same name, by the group Eurocker-Girlz also abbreviated to E-Girlz.[222] Many songs that can be danced to parapara.
A common gyaru hobby is Purikura, known in Japan as プリクラ. Purikura booths are mostly located in the electronic district of Tokyo, Akihabara, where they are a popular activity for both casual gyaru enthusiasts and professional gyaru models. In addition to being a hobby, purikura booths can be used as a way into magazines. Photos taken in these booths are used by magazines to scout for amateur models (who are often readers of these gyaru magazines themselves), referred to as 読者モデル (dokusha moderu) or ドクモモデル (dokumo moderu) in Japanese.[223]
デコ電 (Decoden), also known as 携帯芸術 (keitai art), is another gyaru-associated hobby. Decoden is a compound of 'deco', a shortened form of decorative and 'den', a shortening of denwa (電話), the word for 'phone' in Japanese. Originating in Japan, decoden involves the decoration of mobile phones and other electronic devices with materials such as acrylic, rhinestones, Swarovski crystals, silicone and polymer clay. Denwa decoration is often ostentatious and makes use of 3D motifs as well as media influences. Decoden has also been used for events. Acer Inc. held a decoden contest for the release of their Acer Aspire Onenetbook laptops in 2009. The contest involved three contestants presenting their respective decoden designs for the netbooks in addition to a popularity poll.[224]
A group of gyaru who regularly assemble is called a gyaru circle or a ギャルサークル (gyarusākuru), but can also be shortened to ギャルサー (gyarusā). Gyarusā vary by their members' gender, fashion style, region of origin, and age. There are two types of circles: なごーさ (nago-sa), small groups based around casual gatherings, and イヴェーさ (ivuē-sa), which plan, host, and have events with each other. The Japanese word イヴェー (ivuē) is a direct reference to the English word events. These events typically consist of clubbing, karaoké, purikura, going out to eat at fast food chains or restaurants, and flaunting their outfits to one another.[225]
One of the most famous gyarusā groups is Angeleek, which consisted of at least twelve members who predominantly wore ganguro. They have been promoted repeatedly in egg magazine and on national Japanese television. Another prominent gyarusā in the same district of Tokyo is Shibuya's НЯК, also known by their Japanese gyarusā name, 渋谷ギャルサー 「НЯК」. It boasted Shibuya's largest gyarusā, with over a thousand members. As of 2021, Nachu, the leader of this gyarusā, still has a website.[226]НЯК has also made their own music.[227]Gyarusā have seen a revival as of the 2010s with the creation of the newer group, Black Diamond.[228][229][230][231][232]
Gyaru have their own themed cafés. Similar to maid cafés, waitresses wear gyaru attire and exhibit exaggerated personas in addition to other gyaru-themed rituals. For instance, a general rule in gyaru cafés is the prohibition of polite honorific speech敬語 (keigo).[233] Other gyaru cafés, such as galcafé 10sion,[234][235] offer services such as the chance to wear gyaru makeup or receive a full gyaru makeover.[236] Another notable café targeted towards the gyaru subculture is Beauty Café by GirlsAward. Created by the prominent fashion event GirlsAward, this café employs gyaru reader models 読者モデル (dokusha moderu) as an additional draw.[237]
Many genres of music are popular for gyaru and are sung or made by or for gyaru. From eurobeat, to EDM, Trance and other genres of music or eurobeat remixes, they are casually listened to by gyaru. Eurobeat remixes are regularly danced to as well with parapara written in Japanese as パラパラ (parapara).
Singers such as Koda Kumi, Namie Amuro[248][249][250] and Ayumi Hamasaki[251] are internationally famous, and regarded as inspiration for many gyarus. Other J-pop artists who were considered to be essential to listen to were LOVE to LOVE, GAL DOLL,[252][253]KAHORI and Juliet. Other favorites include singer known by her stage nameSifow also known as Shiho Fujita who at the time, was not only a model but also a singer for J-Pop as she had been a solo artist when starting her music career as Sifow.[254]
Gals! was a manga that had much influence on gyaru fashion, it is a manga that centers completely on the gyaru subculture. This manga has become once again renowned in the subculture of gyaru.[255] Though it is said that a reboot of the series may be impossible.[256] Other mangas having ties to gyaru subculture include Gal Japon, a slice of life manga surrounding the gyaru subculture published in 2010. The 2018 manga called My Roomie Is a Dino received an anime adaptation in 2020.[257] The manga Super Baby features a protagonist named Tamao, who lives near gyaru locations or near locations representing or are influenced by gyaru, such as the mall 109. This manga centers on gyaru fashion and subculture. It started publishing in 2017.[258][259] Debuting in 2017 and is still being published today, the series Yancha Gal no Anjou-san.[260] The manga Hokkaido Gals Are Super Adorable! debuted in 2019 and was still being published as of 2021. In January 2018, the manga My Dress-Up Darling had received publishing and remains an on-going series; this manga received an anime adaptation, which aired from January 2022.[261]Citrus, a yuri manga and anime, has gyaru characters.[262]
Many other mangas have characters in or related to gyaru. For example, Peach Girl, a manga that started publication in 1997. The 2003 manga Bijinzaka Private Girls High School or Shiritsu! Bijinzaka Joshi Koukou, had a titular gyaru character named Nonomiya En. In 2005 Galism: Renai Joutou 3 Sanshimai or in English Galism: Love Supreme Sisters manga was released. In 2009, the manga KECHONPA was published, instead of being a shōjo manga, it had a drama-driven plot. Also in 2009, the anime Hime Gal Paradise ran on Japanese television and revolves around a main character who is initially ordinary but enters a high school where every student is a gyaru. In 2014, the manga and anime series Please Tell Me! Galko-chan[263][264] was published. It mostly discusses topics ranging from gender differences, sexual behavior or body complexes and differences in both the female and male bodies.[265] Galko-chan, the protagonist of this manga, and her older sister are both gyaru. The manga and anime After the Rain has a gyaru on chapter six of the manga and on episode 3 of the anime named "Raining Tears" or Ame Shizuku as an AV Idol on a VHS.[266]
A stop motion anime series named Milpom[267] was created to promote the gyaru lifestyle. The mall of Shibuya 109 is shown as the first shot as the scene in the pilot and is present during its entirety. It lasted from 2015 until 2017. The voice actresses of this series consist of magazine models, including Anna Yano who appeared in mer and KERA magazines, Saki Shibata from the magazine mer as well, and the popteen models Hikari Shiina and Ai Matsumoto. Hikari Shiina voice-acting Milpom and Ai Matsumoto voicing the secondary lead, Pon-pon; after the pilot her name had been changed to Silky.[268]
Some mangas feature a gyaru or have characters influenced by this style but are not considered gyaru. These include Gal Gohan, which was published in 2016, the 2017 series My First Girlfriend Is a Gal, Don't Toy with Me, Miss Nagatoro and GyaruCleaning published in 2018. They include gyaru characters.
Other manga with ties to the gyaru subculture but without it as their main plot point include the manga Komi Can't Communicate which debuted in 2015. The side-character Rumiko Manbagi is introduced as a ganguro in the manga. In 2021, the manga Bleach had a one-shot introducing a character named YuYu Yayahara who is portrayed as a gyaru.[269][270]
Non-gyaru-orientated series have also included gyaru characters. A non-gyaru anime, being the well known series Pokémon has also had a gyaru representation; first in the original anime within the first season on episode 15 called Battle aboard the St. Anne or in Japanese サントアンヌごうのたたかい! (Santo Annu-gō no Tatakai!). Team rocket members, Jessie and James are disguised as a mix that might now resemble to kogyaru and ganguro respectively; but it was simply an early representation of kogyaru at that time. In the 2018 movie Pokémon the Movie: The Power of Us Risa is a gyaru character. But the Pokémon series already had a ganguro representation by the actual Pokémon, Jynx. But fans and Pokémon company themselves disagree since the appearance of this Pokémon in 1996 for Pokémon Red and Blue on the Game Boy and the series since. The comedy anime Mr. Osomatsu has a gyaru character named Jyushiko Matsuno. The series Skull-face Bookseller Honda-san has also had gyaru-influenced characters: two gyaru and one gyaru-o are customers. The first gyaru is a customer as well as a Fujoshi. She appeared in the second chapter of the manga, titled Yaoi Girls from Overseas. She also appears in the first episode of the anime. The other two characters appear within later episode of the series as clients, too. In the non-gyaru-oriented shōnen series Sgt. Keroro, the character Angol Mois takes the appearance of a kogyaru in her human form. The anime series Great Teacher Onizuka has a group of ganguro students.
Some movies either center around or have a gyaru influence to give it either a cult following or for a nostalgic factor for those who participated in gyaru.
In 2009, Japanese model Rina Sakurai from the magazine koakuma ageha appeared in her own film, 'GIRL'S LIFE'.[275] The protagonist in Haruka Ichinose is also a gyaru. A renowned scene in the movie is Haruka having to choose a name for herself since she started working as a hostess in a kyabakura and after a minor disagreement with the hostess bar's manager regarding the nickname she originally proposed, she reluctantly decides to be nicknamed Ageha, a reference to the magazine for which she models.
Colourful, the 2010 anime movie, has a gyaru secondary character, Hiroka Kuwabara, not only from her appearance and nonchalant attitude, but enjo kōsai, forms a major part to her role.
The 2018 Japanese movie Sunny:Tsuyoi Kimochi Tsuyoi Ai[278] has a group of women reminiscing about their high school years in the 1990s and their time being gyaru.
Among the many magazine ads were those for popteen magazine which had a partnership with the Japanese food company Ezaki Glico with their snack Pocky. These advertisements were called 'Deco-Pocky', and were sponsored by the magazine itself to promote Pocky but by either creating new desserts or decorating the Pockys themselves into gaudy snacks.[279] Pocky also made Japanese television commercials with Tsubasa Masuwaka.[280] The Japanese McDonald's company created an advertisement with Tsubasa Masuwaka for a marketing tie-in with Sanrio characters, being the Sugarbunnies. These were for a line of Happy Meal toys, that are hair accessories such as scunchies and plastic rings with their likeness.[281]
Ads cosmetic products, ranging from makeup to false eyelashes from non-gyaru-owned cosmetic companies to gyaru-created and owned cosmetic companies were plentiful during the Hesei era.
Tsubasa Masuwaka's cosmetic line of キャンディドール (kyandidōru) 'lit.'candy doll'' and false eyelash brand ドーリーウインク (dōrīuinku) 'lit.'dolly wink''[282] are manufactured and sold by the Japanese company コージー本舗 (Koji Honpo Co. Limited.). Both of these brands still exist but with new packaging and a different target clientele. The cosmetic company メイコー化粧品 (Meiko cosmetics Incoroprated) also known by its license name 粧美堂 (SHOBIDO); best known for their false eyelash brand ダイヤモンドラッシュ (daiyamondorasshu) lit.'diamond lash' released many commercials during the 2010s with many gyaru models from that time period, including 若槻千夏 (Chinatsu Wakatsuki),[283]斉藤夏海 (Natsumi Saito),[284]八鍬里美 (Satomi Yakuwa), 黒瀧まりあ (Kurotaki Maria) and 武藤静香 (Muto Shizuka).[285]
The gyaru brand Rady created their own J-pop and eurobeat-esque song to promote their brand.[286] Their song is featured on an album featuring various gyaru artists. The brand LADYMADE often used gyaru models in their music videos at the time, such as koakuma ageha model Yuka Obara.[287] Another gyaru brand, COCO*LULU, also created a J-Pop girl group, COCO-GIRL, to promote their own brand as well. This J-pop group consisted of notable gyaru models of that time such as 中嶋杏理 (Nakajima Anri), 飯田志穂 (Īda Shiho), 太田郁美 (Ōta Ikumi) and 藤田ニコル (Fujita Nikoru), better known by their magazine nicknames あんあん (Anan), ちゃむ君 (Chamu-kun), いくちゃむ (Ikuchiyamu) and にこるん (Nikorun). They do not participate in the same magazine, Anri Nakajima and Nicole Fujita are from popteen, Shiho Īda is from egg and Ikumi Ōta is from ranzuki magazine.
There are many advertisements for wigs from Japanese companies with endorsements by gyaru models.
There are three notable wig brands アクアドール (Akuadōru), ラブズウィッグ (Rabuzuuwiggu) and プリシラ (Purishira) (in English they are written as Aquadoll, LOVES WIG and Prisila). Aquadoll made a commercial featuring many gyaru models and actresses to promote their various wigs.[288] LOVES WIG made multiple commercials for wigs created with popteen model Kumiko Funayama's endorsement.[289] And Prisila made a commercial with the endorsement of popteen model Nana Suzuki for a smaller array of wigs such as clip-on bangs and clip-on extensions.[290] Prisila is also known for its taglines that have appeared in Japanese television and gyaru magazines as well, such as 'No wig, no life!'.[291]
Japanese hair-dye products also had gyaru-based ads during that time that now appear on YouTube. There are two notable hair-dye brands noted in the gyaru subculture: パルティー (Parutī) and ビューティーン (Byūtīn); in English, Palty and Beauteen.[292]Gyaru models, Tsubasa Masuwaka and Kumiko Funayama promoted Palty[293][294] and Beauteen,[295] respectively. Tsubasa Masuwaka has even appeared in advertisements for its male hair-dye variant of Palty.[296] And South Korean Pop group KARA appeared in a 2011 commercial for the Palty brand with Tsubasa Masuwaka placing the dye on her hair while KARA sing their new song, ガールズビーアンビシャス (Gāruzubīanbishasu) lit.'Girls be ambitious'.[297]
During the movement's heyday, electronic hair tools and accessories were created for gyaru. Tsubasa Masuwaka endorsed the TsuyaGla Perfect portable hair straightener collection which was produced by the brand CJプライムショッピング (CJ puraimu shoppingu) lit.'CJ Prime Shopping'. It is a hair straightener including accessories such as plastic covers to create curls with them to almost the same effect as a hair curl with a hair curler. They were produced in candy pink, midnight navy and virgin white.[298] CJ Prime shopping also made a professional version of the TsuyaGla Perfect hair straightener with the endorsement of Jun Komori as gyaru model.[299] This version being simply called: TsuyaGla Pro. The same Japanese company have also made a wave hair curling iron and regular curling iron with Kumiko Funayama as the endorser, this time the product is called TsuyaGla Wave and TsuyaGla Curl.[300]
In 2021 a selection of gashapon were released to the market. They were made to resemble various folded origami paper cranes which are made by gyaru. Their poor appearance was noticed by the Japanese public. But these origami were made to have this appearance due to the artificial nails of the gyaru who made them.[301] To add to these gashapons variety and rarity of these gashapon is the fact that though the set is only five colored variations, they are all even the duplicates entirely different from each other because they are handmade. Each also comes with a philosophical question or phrase when collecting one of these gyaru hand-made origami cranes.[302] In 2022 gyaru magazine egg produced a series of capsule toys for both gyaru and collectors. The selection of these capsule toys range from six different magazine covers made into keychains, plastic pins with gyaru slang and new models from the magazine in metal pins with the added bonus of all of these variants having an added magazine logo as a sticker.[303] On September 14, 2022, Sanrio made a collection of 17 items based on kogyaru subculture. What is available are four mascots in keychains, accessory cases and hair clips.[304][305][306][307] A collaborative commercial between Russia and Japan was made with a photoshoot with model Natsuko Matsumoto the Russian mascot Cheburaska.[308]
In a competition for the Japanese music company, AVEX Inc.; Kumiko Funayama won a special background for Japanese flip phones with Sanrio and ミュゥモ (Myuumo), AVEX's digital music distribution company to create a specific Hello Kitty character that resembles Kumiko Funayama herself.[309][310][311][312] Another Japanese electronic brand, Fujitsu, collaborated with both Kumiko Funayama and three brands from the Shibuyadepartment store 109: Cecil McBee, COCO*LULU and Pinky Girls.[313] This mutual effort was made through the use of their flip phones products from the line of NTT Docomo.[314][315] The electronics company Panasonic in 2011 produced the Panasonic Lumix FX77, a camera praised for its use of face-altering functions such as adding makeup onto a photographed bare face. This was commercialized with the use of at the time gyaru model Yuka Obara; it was presented by the American news program CBS News on their YouTube channel.[316] The Japanese company フリュー (Furyū), written FuRyu, that produces purikura machines collaborated with then popteen model Tsubasa Masuwaka for their new machine in 2011.[317] Another iOS 3 application from 2011 is no make-up application The すっぴん。ギャル編 or The スッピン。ギャル編Suppin. Gyaru-hen lit.'The No make-upgyaruedition'. It is an application that does the inverse of most photography applications for selfies: it removes make-up instead of adding it.[318][319][320][321] There is a kyabajō version as well. The corporation Heiwa which produces pachinko machines has also had collaborations with gyaru such as Muto Shizuka and Momoka Eri for making a kyabajō pachiko machine; called パチンコCRラブ嬢小悪魔Pachinko CR rabu jō shōakuma.[322]
Manga had its fair share of commercials dedicated to gyaru subculture. Gals! had an ad on Japanese television during the Heisei era to bring new readers to the quarterly shoujo manga magazine Ribon, the publisher of Gals! at the time.[350]Tomy made multiple commercials created for and featuring characters from Gals! with the Gals! branding which were dedicated to electronic devices.[351] Also gyaru have also promoted manga or anime, such as when gyaru magazine koakuma ageha had a partnership with the manga Attack on Titan.[352]
On the Internet, there are many makeup tutorials and event videos of gyaru meeting each other on YouTube. Many videos discuss this fashion subculture, such as article videos, history videos, makeovers and questionnaire videos.[353][354] Also the only way to take a look into the Heisei era gyaru period and how Shibuya's famous mall, Shibuya 109 looked like then from the inside and out is through the YouTube channel: TokyoFashionMoEStyle,[355] a YouTube channel established in August 2012. From September to December 2012, it posted a series of videos examining Shibuya's gyaru fashion style and publicising the stores that were then in Shibuya 109. It was presented by Japanese JELLY magazine model Mana Honda. Another YouTube channel dedicated to gyaru culture, especially towards the gyarumama subculture, would be the Japanese YouTube channel 'kaorimama1'.[356] This channel was established in June 2010, and published videos from 2010 until 2012. It had many and a series of episodes dedicated to the gyarumama lifestyle called BeMamaTV.[357] This series had a show that would be published online in three parts and it debuted in 2010 and lasted until 2012. It is unclear if this YouTube channel had any commercial ties with the gyaru magazine I LOVE MAMA or if it was its own channel. Another channel with a multitude of content on gyaru is Travel i TV,[358] featuring of reuploads of a Japanese television program about traveling abroad with gyarus. There is also a video that has been uploaded by the YouTube channel of the older women's magazine Josei Jishin as the Jinsin channel; that has the twins Guri and Gura Yoshikawa giving a make-over to an elderly women to resemble them.[359]
There are also gyaru parody videos and even Japanese television program fragments remain viewable on YouTube, ridiculing gyarus and gyaruos. One of the most famous is the 2011 GAL男宣言 (GAL O sengen), lit.'Gyaru O declaration' created by the Japanese music group 'Policeman' ポリスマン, (porisuman),[360][361] which achieved brief popularity outside of Japan as an Internet meme.[362] A recent parody that can be also interpreted as an honoring of every notable gyaru that has appeared in manga, anime and hentai is the YouTube video GyaruSushi.[363] It refers to an actual sushi restaurant in Rio de Janeiro.
Cosplay of Junko Enoshima from Danganronpa at Katsucon in 2014
Many characters from various Japanese media have a gyaru connection. For example, in the Yakuza series, especially in its third iteration, Yakuza 3. It debuted a side-mission which would then be included with its gameplay and features in later sequels. Where in fictional Kabukichō or as the game refers to it as Kamurocho, the player would need to recruit women to join a hostess club. These women were actual gyaru from the magazine Koakuma Ageha. These models are used as actual character models in the game; their whole appearance was replicated to the smallest detail to have them created and placed as 3D characters. These models from Koakuma Ageha are Sayaka Araki, Nemu, Rina Sakurai, Eri Momoka, Riho Nishiyama, Rina Aikawa and Shizuka Muto. They have even been compared to their replicated three-dimensional counterparts.[364] These characters would become hostess of these fictional hostess clubs; if the player chooses to do this side-mission and complete it. But the hostess club section of the game first appeared in Yakuza 2 in the sense of visiting the clubs themselves and not in the similar way as in the third game where the player recruited actual members for the clubs. They even have their own magazine in the games called Kamutai Magazine which is also replica of the actual magazine Koakuma Ageha.[365] This content was omitted in the Western releases of Yakuza 3.
In Danganronpa, the character of Junko Enoshima is inspired by gyaru subculture; she is called a super high school levelgyaru.[366][367] The Persona series also has a gyaru. In Revelations: Persona, there is a kogyaru named Yuka Ayase. No More Heroes 2: Desperate Struggle has a kogyaru enemy as a character. The player must defeat her to proceed in-game; she is known as Shinobu Jacobs who is encountered later in the game.
The Wagamama Fashion: Girls Mode series,[368] known as Style Savvy and Style Boutique in North America and the PAL region respectively, is based on multiple Japanese street fashion subcultures and has a main focus on brands and selling apparel. The video game has a variety of brands and styles but also some of these that can be interpreted as mimicking or representing some gyaru fashion brands. For example, the in-game apparel brand AZ*USA (AZ-USA in the West) has a striking resemblance to the gyaru brand D.I.A.; another would be the brand CherryBerry (April bonbon in the West) also having its own representation of the amekaji style. Most probable inspiration would be the gyaru brand COCO*LULU. The Nintendo DS was the first to introduce this series by the developers syn Sophia and then later had three sequels on the console's successor the Nintendo 3DS. In the West the word new would be added to the pre-existing title of Style Savvy and Style Boutique. In total this franchise would make at least three games on the Nintendo 3DS for this series but with the addition of the Nintendo DS in total the series would be at least a quadruple series.
The video-game franchise Animal Crossing by Nintendo also had a gyaru, but she only appeared in a spin-off game of this series. Specifically the Animal Crossing: Happy Home Designer on the Nintendo 3DS, the character named Lottie appears in that video game for the first time, she is a character represented as an otter. After multiple encounters with her, there will be an in-game event on the third day of gameplay, where her uncle Lyle will state himself that she wears too much makeup in a game dialogue and in a later in-game event she can even be found without her makeup. She will state to the player character, that it was due to the fact she woke up too late for work but would often wear her makeup to impress a male colleague; the colleague's name in game is Digby.[369][370] She also appears in Animal Crossing: amiibo festival on the Wii U. Here are her looks on in-game.[371] This character has recently been added to the Nintendo Switch version of Animal Crossing, Animal Crossing: New Horizons, through the paid downloadable content of Animal Crossing: Happy Home Paradise.
Another video game franchise with a gyaru character is the Dragon Quest series. On the Nintendo DS game Dragon Quest IX there is a gyaru as the fairy character, Sandy.[372] The video-game company, Nintendo did not only cater to gyaru by the use of video-game promotions with gyaru or video games related to the gyaru subculture. They have a series of applications that can be used for both the Nintendo DSi and Nintendo 3DS. They are on the Nintendo DSiWare and the Nintendo eShop. It is a purikura application for both video-game consoles developed by the company Atlus. In Japan this series of applications are known as いつでもプリクラ キラデコプレミアム (itsudemo purikura kiradekopuremiamu) and abroad as the 'Sparkle Snapshots' series.[373][374][375][376] Nintendo has also used amiibo as a costume for the Wii U game Splatoon, a kogyaru outfit for female inkling characters.[377] Besides Splatoon 2 octoling idol Marina voice actress is a gyaru known as Alice Peralta[378] and also has her own group with the voice actress of Pearl as the LAIDBACKS.[379]
The Super Gals! anime series had its own video game, it is a series of threequels published in 2001 and 2002; produced by Konami for the Game Boy color and the PlayStation.[380] The anime series Hime Gal Paradise also had its own video game[381] on the Nintendo 3DS published by Nippon Columbia-games.[382]
Japanese television have a had an enormous amount of gyaru-based content during the Heisei era. These television programs could center on gyaru and even commercials employed gyarus. Some of these shows were made by gyaru for gyaru to boost their popularity and morale as a Japanese fashion style and to do the same for the featured models. They also popularized the magazines or the stores in Shibuya 109 that appeared in these programs since they were either the producers or had a contract with the producers.
There were often single segments about gyaru within programs. One of the earliest being about ganguro and their love for tropical clothing and a new type of thigh-high socks that looked like bell-bottoms that had at the time been released in Shibuya 109.[383] The show GAL-TEN, created by gyaru for gyaru, was produced by egg magazine and broadcast by TBS Television in the 2010s.[384][385] Other television segments used gyaru or gyaru models to promote the show and the models themselves; such as this segment promoting koakuma ageha model Rina Sakurai.[386] Another example of television segments about gyaru were those about make-up application, such as the big eye trend of the early 2010s called デカ目メイクdekame meiku, said to make one's eyes resemble a child's.[387] There was also a television segment on parapara competitions with gyaru and even nationwide ganguro who were all from a certain gyarusā from the Kantō region of Tokyo all the way to Osaka.[388] Another television segment regarded three joshi kōkō gyaru and their way of making money by being sugar babies by using older men with the older Internet system of Japan for enjo kōsai. While doing so, one of the participants told of having made 200,000 yen and when adjusting for inflation made about 1,400 dollars with three dates in one day.[389]
Shows that were relevant to the actual lifestyle or subculture of gyaru during the Heisei era included television specials about the gyarusā or gyarus in general. For example, the gyarusāAngeleek had its own episode on Japanese television, fully dedicated to their events, general outings with each-other and how they helped a younger generation participate in or join their group to continue its legacy.[390] Western gyaru have also appeared on Japanese television: the Spanish gyarusāHysterical appeared twice, both in Spain and while visiting Japan.[391][392] The American gyarusāDiamond Gal appeared in a segment on a Nippon TV program.[393] This segment was created with an exaggerated situation and staged moments to provide more drama. Western gyaru have appeared on Japanese television since 2013, with a whole segment of a Japanese variety broadcast dedicated to various western gyaru who were either in Japan at the time or abroad.[394] Others that reflected and tried to capture the daily lifestyle of gyaru on Japanese television were the Japanese FashionTV segments known as "Tokyo Girls".[395][396][397] The first episode of this series filmed a day in a shop-staff one spo daily custom. The only proof of this episode existing since FashionTV's deletion of these episodes is a tumblr with gifs of this episode.[398] On the same tumblr there is also proof in gif of the episode of the shop staff Miauler Mew being followed for that episode.[399]
South Korean comedian Korean: 박성호; RR: Park Seong-ho depicted a gyaru or kogyaru in 2012 for the KBS Entertainment Awards which was shown on KBS2, a sketch-comedy show called Gag Concert. In the character of Korean: 갸루상; RR: Gyaru Sang, he depicted someone so self-absorbed that she barely takes notice of those speaking directly to her and is portrayed as an idiot. But in an interview, Park Seong-ho admitted having little understanding of the gyaru phenomenon.[400]
^Miller, Laura (December 2004). "Those Naughty Teenage Girls: Japanese Kogals, Slang, and Media Assessments". Journal of Linguistic Anthropology. 14 (2): 225–247. doi:10.1525/jlin.2004.14.2.225. ProQuest195127170.
^"Japanese B-Girl Gyaru Style". Mookychick. September 3, 2014. Retrieved June 24, 2021. B-kei, which is widely considered to stand for "Black-style", that is what it stands for. Is a movement that has swept through the street scene of Japan. Urban Rhythm 'n' Blues and Hip-Hop culture is pretty widespread socially and geographically.
^Suzuki, Tadashi; Best, Joel (January 2003). "The Emergence of Trendsetters for Fashions and Fads: Kogaru in 1990s Japan". The Sociological Quarterly. 44 (1): 61–79. doi:10.1111/j.1533-8525.2003.tb02391.x. S2CID145052921.
^Moskowitz, Nona (December 2014), "Gender, maturity, and "Going out into the World": self-referent term choice at Ogasawara Middle School", U.S.-Japan Women's Journal, University of Hawaii Press, vol. 47, The kogyaru [...] appearing in the early 1990s offers a more recent example of the way in which women who transgress gender ideals continue to be objects of critique. The kogyaru style, frequently marked by bleached hair, white makeup on artificially tanned skin, brash behavior, and a reputation for talking explicitly about sex and other taboo subjects, often, as Laura Miller notes, "combines elements of calculated cuteness and studied ugliness." It is a look that appears to be "an affront to the male tastes of readers." The white eye shadow and lipstick on the tanned or blackened skin of the ganguro or yamamba styles combine to create the look of a photographic negative. Sharon Kinsella found that readers' comments drew upon images of a primitive tribe or some kind of animal and suggested a "sexual and racial delinquency" on the part of the girls.
^"All About Gyaru!". My Candy Heaven. May 22, 2011. Retrieved May 25, 2021. Comes from the words and oyaji. A gal who behaves in a masculine way. usually drinks, smokes and uses profanity.
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