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Međimurje County

Coordinates: 46°27′58″N 16°24′50″E / 46.466°N 16.414°E / 46.466; 16.414
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Template:Croatian County

Međimurje (Croatian: Međimurska županija) is a triangle-shaped county in the northernmost part of Croatia. In the western part of the county, there are slopes of Alpine foothills, while toward the east it touches the flat Pannonian plains. It shares borders with Slovenia and Hungary, with Austria just over the corner. The eastern limits of the county are near the town of Legrad. The closest cities are Varaždin, Koprivnica, Nagykanizsa, Murska Sobota, Bjelovar, Maribor, and Graz, in all three states.

Roman Belica je vymastená cicina

Geographical characteristics

The county covers the plains between the rivers of Mura and Drava, (Mur and Drau in German), both of which occasionally flood and frequently change their paths. The Mura divides Croatia from Slovenia (Prekmurje) and also from another administrative entity, Varaždinska županija, just to the south. The county's elevation ranges between 120 m and Mohokos's 344 m above sea level. In the Upper Medjimurje, in the west, the Mura changes its course, moving it in terms of geology slowly toward the north. There were occasional earthquakes here. One of significant strength hit the region in 1880, while another in 1738 devastated Čakovec and particularly nearby Šenkovec. The climate is continental, with hot, often stormy summers, calm autumns, and severe winters.

Of the whole area, (729.5 km²), 360 km² are used in agriculture. Unfortunately, due to the high population density, agricultural land is divided into 21,000 units averaging 17,500 m² each. 27.5 km² are covered with orchards; 11 km² of the hilly area with small picturesque towns like Štrigova in the western part are the vineyards. Pasturelands and forests are roughly 105 km². The biggest forest is Murščak, located between Domašinec and Donji Hrašćan (hrast = oak tree in Croatian).

People, municipalities, language, cuisine

The principal city is Čakovec, (Csáktornya in Hungarian language). The other two cities are Mursko Sredisce and Prelog. Towns include Nedelišće[1], Sveti Martin na Muri, Sveta Marija, Draškovec, Donji Kraljevec, Donja Dubrava, Goričan, Hodošan, Belica (a.k.a. the "Potato City"), Šenkovec, Macinec, Kotoriba, and Podturen.

The area has 119,500 residents in 126 municipalities. It is populated mainly by ethnic Croatians of Roman Catholic extraction, with up to 4% Hungarians, Germans, Albanians, Slovenes and Roma. It is the smallest (729.5 km²) county but the most densely populated with 164.2 persons/km². The Kajkavian dialect is wide-spread, although the official language is Štokavian dialect. Kaj, Što and Ča equate to what? in these dialects, including the third Čakavian dialect known along the Adriatic coast.

The demographics of the region changed swiftly in the period between 1950 and 1975, with a significant reduction in the size of the basic population unit--the family. From the national perspective, the population is moving toward the Istra region, while the seasonal workforce moves toward Zagreb and south. The natural population increase is minimal. Each of the bigger municipalities has an elementary school center, while Čakovec offers more: the Gymnasium, technical and construction high schools, and the academy (Teachers Training College), to fulfill the local and country's needs for educators.

The area was for many centuries part of Hungary, and this influence is evident in its history and culture. Once, only notable place one could have experience local cuisine and culture was the Medjimurska hiza mansion. The local diet is based on cereal s and meat. Fašnik, (Fasching in German language), is the period when for centuries, people used to make festivities to drive off demons of the darkness and winter. Traditionally, Krafne or in local dialect Krafni, (big doughnuts) are made at this time, but today, one can ask for them at any time. Orehnjača cake, (orah=walnut in Croatian), is delicious as is hard Corn mush or Žganci, served with Vrhnje, (liquid sour cream) , Kiselo mlijeko (buttermilk) or warm milk. Here we have hard, white and orange checkered, cone-shaped dry cheese Turoš, Štrukli, (boiled pastry with cottage cheese), Mlinci, white and black sausage (Čurke), with sour cabbage, other dried and otherwise preserved meat such as Meso s tiblice and vegetable dishes. The diet of the region is part of the Croatian cuisine known for its diversity.

There are spas used for recreation in Vučkovec and around Sveti Martin na Muri. Also, there are mountaineering, fishing, bowling, radio, aero, and other clubs, including more than 200 for various sports activities. Hunting is attracting numerous hunters, mainly from Italy, in low game and birds.

Administrative division

Međimurje county is divided:

County government

Current leadership:

The county assembly is composed of 41 representatives, presided by Vladimir Ivković (HDZ) and composed as follows:

Based on election results in 2005.

Communication and transport

Medjimurje is a strong trade and communication hub connecting central Europe with Varaždin, Zagreb, and Karlovac as well as the port of Rijeka, (rijeka=river in Croatian), on the shores of the Adriatic sea, mainly in Kvarner bay. Kotoriba is proud of the first railway station building in Croatia and one of the first railway tracks connecting it to Čakovec in the westbound direction. The first railroad track was built here in 1860, helping to connect Budapest with the southern ports Rijeka, (Fiume) and Trieste. The second railroad track tied Čakovec with Mursko Sredisce and Lendava (Lendva) in Slovenia in 1889.

The road infrastructure is good and includes the new expressway connecting Hungary via Goričan to Zagreb and the seashore. Everyday communication in business, trade and education within as well between the counties and countries makes the area dynamic and open. A small airport for freight is located at Pribislavec.

Business and economy

Roughly 22 000 people are employed, with 60 % of them in bigger companies. An average monthly net wage was 3550 kn in 2006. Until recently, the region was heavily agricultural so that even today nearly 6 500 people--or 5.2%--are part of the official agriculture business with an additional 7.5% an unofficial part, totaling 12.7%, which is above the national average. Since the late 1960s and early 1970s, nearly 17 000 of its inhabitants have been employed abroad, in Austria, Germany, Switzerland and beyond. This area is one of the nation's richest and most prosperous.

The economy of the is based today on a variety of industries, such as textiles Medjimurska trikotaža,(originally The Graner Co.) Čateks, Modeks, footwear (Jelen, Meiso and Calzedonia), also food (Agromedjimurje, Vajda, Čakovečki Mlinovi, Mesnice Carović, Mesnice Mihalić), and metal fabrication plants (Ferro-Preis, TMT, and Tehnix). Other industries include the printing and publishing activities of (Zrinski), building materials, building and construction (Tegra and Beton), and chemical (Meplast and Muraplast). Maltar and Co. (later Medjimurjeplet) of Kotoriba, with its basket-waving business (baskets, chairs), has been a significant part of the local economy with the beginning of the 20th century as it is now. Industry has developed mostly in the central and eastern parts, corresponding with the population distribution. Transit, communication and trade (METSS former Trgocentar (Međimurska trgovina suvremenog stila -- Međimurje's popular style store) continue to be important.

Resources

There are deposits of coal in Mursko Središće, Peklenica and Lopatinec (shovel = lopata in Croatian), the exploration of which was part of economic life between 1946 and 1972. The total output then was close to 4,600,000 t but was unprofitable compared to the price of gasoline at that time. The estimated reserves are 200,000,000 t, but new technology and approaches would be needed to extract it profitably.

Gas and crude oil deposits were found first in Croatia here, in Selnica and Peklenica, in 1856. The latter got its name from the word "pekel", meaning "hell" in the local dialect, since the people quickly noticed the peculiar properties of the dark, greasy liquid in small ponds appearing spontaneously on the ground. At the time, reserves were calculated to be around 170,000 t. There was exploitation from 1886 to 1889 and even in the 20th century when world demand was in its infancy, and no other sources were even needed. Today, just a modern pipeline stretches from Omišalj on the Adriatic coast and Sisak toward the refinery in Lendava just north from here. Notable gas deposits are in Čakovec's suburb of Mihovljan.

Two hydroelectric dams (HPP Čakovec and Dubrava) on the Drava river, built in 1982 and 1989, provide 161.6 MW of electric power and are used for flood control and irrigation. Geothermal resources exist but cannot be considered as a profitable energy source; instead, they are used for leisure and recreation. Gold particles can be found in both rivers' sands. In 1955, the geological survey calculated the gold concentration in the Drava river to be between 2.5 and 24.4 mg/m³, occasionally reaching 111–150 mg/m³.

History

The first organized human habitations here can be traced back to the Stone Age, the 5th millennium BC. Numerous findings tell us also about life later, in the Bronze Age. The origins of inhabitants in both historic spans of time are still uncertain. As for the Neolithic locality called Ferenčica near Prelog, urban legend tells us only that it was inhabited by bad, violent and virtueless people. Nearby, there are 3rd century archaeological sites called Ciglišće and Varaščine .

As for the Iron Age period, the tribes are identified as those of the Celts, Serets and Pannons, later subdued by the ever-expanding Roman military machine. In the 1st century, the Romans according to the geographer Strabo knew the place as Insula intra Dravam et Muram ("island between Drava and Mura rivers").

The central city as a locality was called Aquama ("the wet city"), because the area was marshland. Many different tribes, such as Huns, Visigoths, and Ostrogoths, passed through the region later. The Hungarians have occupied the region in 896, until the river Sava, and the region became part of Zala county. The area was used as free benefaction, and thus started to be populated. The region became under the Kingdom of Hungary, as written by the "Pactum Conventum" of Croatia from 1102: if the King calls to fight, the army is obliged to fight until the Drava river, otherwise all military action should be on their costs.

During the century, tradesmen and merchants (mostly ethnic Germans) started to arrive and to facilitate the creation of the urban localities that we know today. Prelog was founded in 1264, shortly after the invasion by Mongols in 1242.

Hungarian king Endre II. pointed out the border of Hungary and Medimurje as Drava in 1213, and so did Bela IV in 1256 AD. In 1252 AD, after the end of war between Bela IV and Ottokar, margrave of Moravia, the son of the king of Czechs, the dispute was dissolved by bringing part of Steirerland under the domination of Bela IV. Later, Medimurje was governed by the son of Bela, Istvan, and after a rebellion, it was split from Kingdom of Hungary in circa 1270. In 1328, King Charles Robert of Anjou redeemed this area from Walls Ulrik, the capitain of Steirerland who ruled Medimurje.

Čakovec got its name thanks to the count Dimitry Csáky (Dimitrij Čak), who at the beginning of the 13th century erected the timber fortification that eventually was named "Csaky's tower", (Čakovec is Csáktornya in Hungarian, meaning Csáky's tower) mentioned for the first time in 1328. With the decree of king Charles Robert in 1333, the fortified settlement on the location of today's Čakovec was announced to be the capitol. In 1350, King Louis I the Great of Anjou has given the land to then viceroy (ban) Stjepan I Lacković, a member of the Lackovic family ruling Transylvania, as a donation, which remained in Lacković property until 1397, when King Sigismund executed Stjepan II Lacković, and took back the area to the property of the crown.

In 1405, Celje (Cilli) family has received Medimurje as donation, and the land was mortgaged. King Matthias Corvinus of Hungary buys out the mortgage and donates it to Johann Ernust and his son, who were Jewish merchants from Sweeden, settled in Buda. It remained in the hands of Ernusts after 1526, when the family dies out without heir. Ban Peter Keglević attempts to take over the area, while the Diet in Bratislava approves that King Ferdinand I to delegate Nikola Šubić Zrinski to occupy Čakovec, and take the domination of Medimurje, which is done in 1546.

Fast development occurred after 1547 under and the rest of the Zrinski family ruling the area between 1546 and 1671. In 1579, the population of craftsmen and merchants outside the walls was granted the right to trade, which was the beginning of the formal and legal city structure. The area was of importance as a trade center with Hungary positioned just on the main roads, facilitating the exchange of goods, crafts, and ideas. On the other hand, the region was a military buffer zone to withstand the expanding of the Ottoman Empire. The first owner of Međimurje was Nicholas IV (Nikola IV Zrinski in Croatian), (1508-1566), a hero of Szigetvár, then followed his son, George IV (Juraj IV Zrinski in Croatian) until 1603, his grandson Nikola VI until 1624, and his another grandson (a brother of Nikola VI) George V (Juraj V Zrinski in Croatian) until 1626. He was poisoned by the general Albrecht Wallenstein in Bratislava and was buried near Čakovec in 1626. He was followed by his son Nikola Zrinski VII (1620-1664). At the coronation of Ferdinand IV, he carried the sword of state and was made captain-general of Croatia. He was killed under dubious circumstances in the forest of Kursanec during hunting (thought to be killed by a wild-boar). His brother, Petar Zrinski IV, in a conflict with the Austrian empire, was wrongfully accused of treason and was beheaded on April 30 1671 in Wiener Neustadt, while his wife Katarina Zrinski-Frankopan died imprisoned by the same dynasty on November 16 1673 in Graz. On August 19, 1691, the son of poet Nikola VII, Adam Zrinski fell at Slankamen, while fighting against the Turks. Medjimurje remained in the hands of the Zrinski family until 1703, when John IV (Ivan IV Antun Zrinski in Croatian) died in prison.

In 1715, during the period of Charles III, count Michael Althan became the owner of Medjimurje, who received the land as his loyal services.

In 1738, the once-proud castle was hit by an earthquake, which caused tremendous damage. The owners of the city made some repairs, but times changed. Almost overnight, in 1741, fire caused additional damage. The castle started to decay, slowly sinking into oblivion, while the town's civil activities and their importance started to grow. In 1786, 1048 people resided in the town.

In 1786, Joseph II of Habsburgs has rearranged the municipal states. Medjimurje became part of Croatian ban county. After the death of Joseph II, the land was again part of Kingdom of Hungary, under Zala county. In 1791, count Feštetić bought Medjimurje, which remained in the property of Feštetić family until 1920.

In 1849 Josip Jelačić, a national and political military leader, pushed the Hungarian forces from that region, and soon the city was occupied by political decree. In 1860 Medjimurje was given back again to Hungary by the Viennese Government. In 1875, during the period of Dual Monarchy of Austria-Hungary, Franz Joseph I declared to move all parsonages in Medimurje under Zagreb to Szombathely.

Within years, in 1860 and later in 1889, the railroad was introduced, while in 1893 electric power started illuminating most of the city streets with 131 lanterns. According to the 1910 census, the population of Međimurje numbered 90,387 people, including 82,829 Croats and 6,766 Hungarians.

In 1918, after the collapse of Austria-Hungary, and after the disarmament of the local police, the Medjimurje region became unsafe. In December, lieutenant-colonel Perko has taken over the post office of Čakovec without resistance. The Croatian National Council sent hastily assembled troops, which crossed river Mura all the way to Dolni Lendava, where they met resistance, as the region is of Hungarian majority. Another attempt was soon organized commanded by Slavko Kvaternik which forced Hungarians to abandon Medjimurje. On 9 January 1919 Great Assembly of Međimurje in Čakovec has proclaimed separation from Hungarian state [2] and in 1920 they have officialy become part of the newly created Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later Yugoslavia).

The language dialect of Medimurje was a problem in the legal offices, so Medimurje was attached from the civil service of Zagreb to Slovenian Maribor, but he situation got worse, so it was reverted soon.

Upon signing the treaty with the Third Reich, (March 25 1941), Kingdom of Yugoslavia became the member of the Axis powers. On April 6 1941 it was attacked by the same alliance soon to be conquered and divided. Between 1941 and 1945, Medjimurje was under Hungarian occupation. Colonel Tímár, backed by the people of Čakovec, occupied the region after his talks with Bárdossy. Only Štrigova (Stridovar) and Ljutomer (Luttenberg) area was problematic, as it was occupied by the Germans. After diplomatic talks, the region was re-connected to Medimurje, as there was no proof it was not part of the region. At this time started the re-settlement of the ethnic Croatians, settled after 1918, back to Croatia. Unfortunately the civil service of Medimurje until 1945 was arrogant and the people were dissatisfied.

In the regime of Tito, the region was heavily influenced by Yugoslavia where the previously mixed ethnicity was homogenised.

Miscellaneous

  • Since the 4th century BC, there have been reports of floating mills powered by river streams. Ancient know-how was later adopted by arriving Slavs, and after them by Magyars. Many of these mills were operating along the Mura some decades ago. The last one, in Mursko Sredisce, was in use in the 1970s.
  • Name of Austrian city Graz is derived from word gradec with meaning small city utop.
  • Baroque frescoes of Ivan Ranger dating between 1776 and 1786 in the chapel of Sveta Jelena (St.Helen) in Šenkovec and in the church of Sveti Jeronim (St.Jerome) in Štrigova are recommended attractions. The pride of Prelog is beautiful church of Sveti Jakob (St. Jacob), built in 1761.
  • When building the railroad nearby, some sections of the tracks were stolen. In hope of recovering them, the workers posted the message - Vrati šine, (do return the rail lines). That is how the place of Vratišinec got its name.
  • The first crude oil pipeline was built in this part of Europe between Mursko Središće and the nearby town of Selnica in 1901. Interestingly, at that time the annual production was less than 7,000 tons.
  • Famous Medjimurski konj breed, descended from group of the coldbloods was for decades harnessed to the streetcars in Vienna.
  • Evliya Çelebi most famous Ottoman traveler of the 17th century traveled through Medjimurje and mentioned it in his books.
  • The village Križovec might be the only place in the world where people used to--and occasionally still do--extract boulders of coal by pulling them from the bottom of the running Mura river while on the banks of Drava river near Donji Vidovec, one can still witness the process of gold prospecting and extraction as it used to be practiced during the gold rush era.

Local notable people

References


Template:Regions which belonged to Hungary before the Treaty of Trianon

46°27′58″N 16°24′50″E / 46.466°N 16.414°E / 46.466; 16.414

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